VioDuskar

1: take canned air. 
2: flip can upside down

3: spray air on to heatsink/fan area. 

4: ????

5: PROFIT!!!

 

Just now, GoldengamerZ07 said:

Does Linux need a partition? If so then why wont it let me make a new one?

every operating system needs a partition. 

your disc needs to be partitioned and formatted in a file system that linux will accept. (like ex-FAT)

1 minute ago, GoldengamerZ07 said:

Yes twice i completely erase it and tried again only thing i havent tried is to delete the flash drive and reinstall it. And FAT and i tried MBR/DOS same result for both

so you have a bootable USB, you're deleted the target SSD/HDD's partitions, and you'd unable to install the OS onto the target drive because it can't create a root directory?

1 minute ago, Marcimo said:

I dont care about my data and yes I have a 8 gb USB stick

if you have a USB, you can download the Win10 media installation tool at this link https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10
download the tool, and go through the prompts to make a bootable USB. 

once you have a bootable USB plug it in and select the USB as your boot device in your BIOS. then go through the prompts to delete your old partitions and start the OS installation. 

1 minute ago, Marcimo said:

It is recognized 

do you care about your data? do you have a 8GB USB drive? 

did you delete all of the old partitions first?  
what format are you trying to give it? ex-FAT? 

see the above post too. 

7 minutes ago, Marcimo said:

Ik that repair disk is not the issue* 

im just dumb okey ;-;

boot to BIOS and see if the Disk is recognized in the BIOS. if it's not the drive is probably dead. 

if it is in the BIOS, and it might be if you get startup recovery, then you may have issues with your boot table, or your drive letters are messed up. i've seen it happen recently after newer windows updates, but normally it only happens to systems with multiple drives. 

if you don't care about your data you can just reinstall windows on the drive. 
you might want to check the drive's SMART info to see if it's healthy though. 

1 hour ago, bonkers1234 said:

Wait sorry I think it does mean I should be able to get into BIOS but that there is still an issue with the ssd. So it must be a display or cable issue. I am temporarily using a TV as a monitor with a HDMI cable until my proper monitor arrives, do you have any advice with what I should try.

is your tv set to the right input? 
it should work fine enough

16 minutes ago, bonkers1234 said:

I am 100% sure it's the boot LED that's on. I have tried booting with no drive, with just m.2 ssd and with just an old sata hard drive all give me the same boot Q-LED. Also I said white light above mistakenly I meant to say green light. The boot debug LED is green. 

Right now I'm just trying to get into BIOS but I will definitely update BIOS if I can get the PC to post. And I don't have a spare GPU, old computer had iGPU.

if the boot LED is greed you should be good to go. i think you might have a display cable and monitor issue then.

is your 4-8 pin CPU power cable connected? i can't see from the .mov

5 minutes ago, bonkers1234 said:

 

so, it's a boot LED? are you sure? you should get through POST and into the BIOS even with no bootable drive. do you have a spare SATA drive? 

it must be a CPU, RAM, VGA issue. boot is the last thing checked. 
i'd pull out all of the drives to see if the LEDs change, and then try a spare SATA drive to see if it will let you into the BIOS. 

it might be worthwhile to update the BIOS if you can get it to boot. 
also, if it's a VGA issue and you're running a PCI-e 4.0 GPU, you may need to slot an older GPU and switch your PCI-e mode to 3.0 in the BIOS. 
do you have a spare older GPU? 

Just now, jonnyGURU said:

It's not a laptop.  It's a desktop and it has an internal PSU.

1 minute ago, Onoykazi said:

Issa tower

yeah, I went and did some more reading. sorry. 

3 minutes ago, jeanmichel said:

No, I am replacing all previous sticks with the ones listed above so they are all the same model, speed, etc.

However my MB supports 1333Mhz while they are 1600. However I believe they will underclock automatically to match the MB speed (?)

check the documentation on your motherboard and see if that model number of RAM is supported. i'd say you might be looking for different RAM soon. 

9 minutes ago, Onoykazi said:

Last year i bought a Lenovo Legion T530-28ICB(from france if that helps) on a pretty good deal, with an i5-8400 and rtx 2060. Now i want to upgrade my cpu since it seems to bottleneck in games like warzone or fps games in general. Upon inquiring about my PSU (I dont have the guts to open case and check), a Lenovo community forum expert said i have a 350watt PSU.

How is that even possible? Forget about upgrading, now im worried about my PC blowing up. 

Can anyone help me? Hopefully the tech dude was wrong, since I've seen some people saying mine should have a 500watt PSU.

Thanks

thttps://www.lenovo.com/us/en/desktops-and-all-in-ones/legion-desktops/legion-t-series-towers/Lenovo-Legion-T530-Intel/p/99LE9500311

The product page in english shows a 500W PSU. open the case and check the side of the PSU. remove it if you have to. it MUST be labeled. 

9 minutes ago, bonkers1234 said:

-snip-

Do you see #18? at the top right? what color are those LEDs when you try to POST/Boot?

these are Q-LED diagnostic lights. it's important to see which light is lit too.

6 minutes ago, jeanmichel said:

My MB is ECC memory compatible, so I do not know where the issue could come from. System boots fine with original ram sticks

Can anyone suggest further troubleshooting procedures ? Thanks.

so your RAM sticks speeds are mismatched? are you mismatching ECC and non-ECC? 

7 minutes ago, dumbnooba said:

GT 1030 ( crap ik but planning to oc ) and upgrade later on

seagate barracuda 2tb hdd ( installing windows on this )

these are the only things i'd work on replacing/upgrading/changing soon. 
your GPU needs an upgrade bad if you plan on playing anything newer. 
your 2TB HDD is okay for long term storage, but i'd get an NVMe m.2 SSD for your OS. even a 256gb just for the OS would be much nicer. 
you can still use the 2TB for storage. just move your windows install off of it. 

9 minutes ago, KickinGravy said:

Yes I have done that, but the issue keeps happening. Also the ssd's in my system aren't showing up in the load order section of the bios, have to manually select the drive with windows on it to boot into windows. 

is your bios set to UEFI? 
do you know if your boot flags on your drives are right? 
are your drive letters right on your partitions?

i recently ran into a computer that had multiple SSDs and after an update all of the partitions got drive letters when they shouldn't have. C: became F: and windows became unbootable.

press F1, then set up your boot order in the BIOS, then save and exit. F10 should save and exit. 

22 minutes ago, kelvinhall05 said:

Don't touch it, don't mess with it at all. Take pics of everything, including the box, and get a refund. This is unacceptable and unless it was sold in this condition, you shouldn't be expected to use it like this, regardless of if it works or not.

This all day OP, don't accept this. send it back, request a refund or a replacement. 

I live in a 100% humidity region all the time.
I haven't seen any issues with humidity. i've lived here for years, with computers both in well cooled and dry parts of my home, and is rooms with no air conditioning or other form of humidity control. 

Asus Merlin is a great firmware that works on Asus routers. I'd buy whichever I could afford in their supported list. but that's personal preference. 

https://www.asuswrt-merlin.net/

any dumb unmanaged switch is fine. 

2 minutes ago, Areyn13 said:

There's been a big deal made about piggyback cables recently for high wattage cards, people are often told not to use piggyback cables for cards like the 3080/3090 but idk how serious it can be

now you got me guessing about my 3080 TI, but i'm pretty sure my SFX PSU won't allow for a piggy back. 

EDIT: just checked it's not possible to piggyback on my current PSU. 

12 minutes ago, SyfyGuy said:

Unfortunately apple and mac os are a NO Go, Windows only. Its unfortunate due to their price to performance now, but I'm a windows guy and haven't used mac since 3rd grade.

start sorting on newegg. they have some great filters. 

16 minutes ago, Slottr said:

MacBook Air?

college students should not use Macs because some classes require windows only applications like Visual Studios or Solidworks. 

48 minutes ago, Areyn13 said:

LOL wtf is this? i've never done this. i've always just used the piggyback for the 2nd plug. that's what it's for? 

I always thought the RM and CM series PSUs from corsair had a bad reputation. I remember a few of them being trash a decade or less ago. 
hell, my SF series PSU had a recall on it and it was fresh last summer. Check corsair for a recall maybe?