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Everything posted by VioDuskar

  1. is your plan to buy the motherboard by itself or the entire laptop? either way, as long as you keep your harddrive, the new motherboard should recognize it and boot up with everything loaded from before.
  2. buy some good paste, or get a good AIO
  3. thermal take makes one. I had a co-worker that used one of these for a long time. https://www.bestbuy.com/site/thermaltake-blacx-duet-hard-drive-enclosure-docking-station-black/9062073.p?skuId=9062073&ref=212&loc=1&ref=212&loc=1&ds_rl=1266837&gclid=CjwKCAiA8K7uBRBBEiwACOm4dwPgIY180YsbCur-aPh0tHKpSB8AliZU5IwTPe8O-PQp4UORnwQrvBoCPT4QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds I just use these: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-10Gbps-Adapter-Cable-Drives/dp/B00XLAZODE/ref=asc_df_B00XLAZODE/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309833041189&hvpos=1o10&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10416734729926178279&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011165&hvtargid=pla-343408325892&psc=1 But you'd need two, and two USB ports.
  4. no, don't do that. if you need more frames overlock first.
  5. WTF is that MiniTool you've used? you made your new drive E: now? and your old drive is letter G,H,J,K,L? anything except F:? why are your disks partitioned MBR? win10 uses GPT now. also, you were cloning drives before, there is no need to clone drives if it's not a Live OS. if it's just data in a file structure with no Registry, just move the filles over from the old 500GB to your new 1TB. no need to clone the 500GB to the 1TB.
  6. lol, that trick is some old VooDoo magic from Windows 98/XP so the Old SSD now has a new drive letter and when you delete the Programs/Download folders they still pop up? how fast do the folders get restored? immediately after reboot?
  7. are you using a USB hub? my Rift hates hubs. are you launching the game from within the VR or launching it from desktop directly? i'd suggest from desktop directly if you can.
  8. use microsoft's Download assistant to make a bootable USB drive, then go into your boot options and select your USB drive to boot to, then windows install should begin. your MoBo should have an easy UEFI that lets you just click the drive you want to boot to. if not, go to boot options, then change boot priority, make "removable media" the first boot device. (removable media may be named something else.) you may also need to enable legacy boot if you're trying to load an older version of windows. always use the USB 2.0 ports on the back of the MoBo, not 3.0 ports or Case header ports. you cannot boot Win7 or older onto an M.2 drive, as the installation media does not have the drivers to recognize the new hardware.
  9. every RGB control software seems really buggy right now. ThermalTake and GigaByte both suck and look terrible. i'm sure Asus's isn't much better. if the website doesn't have it, a newer, not buggy version probably doesn't exit. here's the link though. what version are you running? https://www.asus.com/campaign/aura/us/download.html
  10. i assumed the OS was seperate. reboot the system if file manager won't open. then use the disk management tool to change drive/ volume lettering. wipe all partitions on both drives, then create a new volumes on each drive, lettering them as needed. the disk tool looks like this:
  11. go python. it's the most beginner friendly, plus you don't have to compile it. otherwise try JavaScript. it's not the same as java.
  12. this is literally the weirdest build request ever. BUILD A COMPUTER, MAKE IT UNDER 750W PSU! MAX RAM! some gaming and video edit MUST BE QUITE!
  13. there is obviously a dependency somewhere that is recreating those folders. perhaps change the new SSD drive letter to the old SSD's drive letter and give the old SSD a new drive letter. if SSD1 was G: and SSD2 is H: make SSD2 G: and SSD1 Q: (some random letter)
  14. i wouldn't bother upgrading this yet either. GPU first, then maybe add more RAM if you need it. intel CPUs of that same socket are not compatible with older chipsets. (eg: you can't buy an 8800k and put it in a board with a z270 chipset or lower.) even if you have a BIOS update.
  15. looks like the format didn't comeplete correctly on drive1, then when you put drive2 in it attempted to start itself over, formatting drive2. perhaps it assigned drive2 the same volume letter/number because they are the same make/model. in english: perhaps the format operation simply said "wait i screwed up, put the drive back!" and instead you put in drive2, again because of same make/model it proceeded to start over with the format. @heherawr how do those drives have the same serial number? they don't but the last 4 digits are the same, which is generally unlikely.
  16. any IPMI KVM would be fine too...
  17. does anyone know if there are any rackmount Display/Keyboards (KVMs) out there that are 1080p, with only 1 input (HDMI/DP)? Hardmode: less than $600 USD? I can't seem to find anything worthwhile and for as stupid as these things are, (19in LCD and keyboard) why the heck are they ~800+ USD? I'm building a home server/ VM box, and while i plan to remote into it alot, I also want to be able to look into it while i'm home. i'm not going to get a shelf and put a full size monitor and keyboard on it, because that's dumb.
  18. @op, there is no noticeable difference between 4 and 2 stick configurations of the same capacity. i suggest 2 stick for later expand-ability.
  19. AHCI? i cn't remember the acronym, but what kind of harddrive are you using? sata or m.2? if it's sata try switching the sata mode options in the bios. if it really is ACPI check your power settings in the bios and turn off any power saving features. then try again. also make sure all moherboard power connectors are plugged in, including the 4/8 pin CPU power near the top. some/most boards will still power via the 24pin main power if i remember correctly.
  20. the best way, and you aren't going to like this, is to take it apart as much as you can. take off all the caps, get down in the mechanisms, and soak it in 70+% rubbing alcohol. SOAK IT. scrub that shit real good with whatever soft stuff you have. then let it air dry for 2-5 days. no kidding.
  21. i find a good 750W PSU will keep you rolling for years. they can be used more down the line, even if you later decide to go SLI. for the most part they just give you longevity. a 550-600w is all most people need, but i've used the same 750W in 3 builds over 8 years now. at one point i used it with 3x gtx550 GPUs and an fx9590 CPU.
  22. it's fast enough to boot into RAM and work with. it's not about speed, it's about interchangability, and disposability. why can't you do MacOS? hackintosh is a thing, i'm sure you know. and i'm sure it can be put on a USB /SD
  23. i've booted from a USB SD card adapter, and the BIOS has SD card options in the boot order menu. i'd still give this a shot.