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VioDuskar

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Everything posted by VioDuskar

  1. 1: take canned air. 2: flip can upside down 3: spray air on to heatsink/fan area. 4: ???? 5: PROFIT!!!
  2. every operating system needs a partition. your disc needs to be partitioned and formatted in a file system that linux will accept. (like ex-FAT)
  3. so you have a bootable USB, you're deleted the target SSD/HDD's partitions, and you'd unable to install the OS onto the target drive because it can't create a root directory?
  4. if you have a USB, you can download the Win10 media installation tool at this link https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10 download the tool, and go through the prompts to make a bootable USB. once you have a bootable USB plug it in and select the USB as your boot device in your BIOS. then go through the prompts to delete your old partitions and start the OS installation.
  5. do you care about your data? do you have a 8GB USB drive?
  6. did you delete all of the old partitions first? what format are you trying to give it? ex-FAT? see the above post too.
  7. boot to BIOS and see if the Disk is recognized in the BIOS. if it's not the drive is probably dead. if it is in the BIOS, and it might be if you get startup recovery, then you may have issues with your boot table, or your drive letters are messed up. i've seen it happen recently after newer windows updates, but normally it only happens to systems with multiple drives. if you don't care about your data you can just reinstall windows on the drive. you might want to check the drive's SMART info to see if it's healthy though.
  8. if the boot LED is greed you should be good to go. i think you might have a display cable and monitor issue then.
  9. is your 4-8 pin CPU power cable connected? i can't see from the .mov
  10. so, it's a boot LED? are you sure? you should get through POST and into the BIOS even with no bootable drive. do you have a spare SATA drive? it must be a CPU, RAM, VGA issue. boot is the last thing checked. i'd pull out all of the drives to see if the LEDs change, and then try a spare SATA drive to see if it will let you into the BIOS. it might be worthwhile to update the BIOS if you can get it to boot. also, if it's a VGA issue and you're running a PCI-e 4.0 GPU, you may need to slot an older GPU and switch your PCI-e mode to 3.0 in the BIOS. do you have a spare older GPU?
  11. yeah, I went and did some more reading. sorry.
  12. check the documentation on your motherboard and see if that model number of RAM is supported. i'd say you might be looking for different RAM soon.
  13. thttps://www.lenovo.com/us/en/desktops-and-all-in-ones/legion-desktops/legion-t-series-towers/Lenovo-Legion-T530-Intel/p/99LE9500311 The product page in english shows a 500W PSU. open the case and check the side of the PSU. remove it if you have to. it MUST be labeled.
  14. Do you see #18? at the top right? what color are those LEDs when you try to POST/Boot? these are Q-LED diagnostic lights. it's important to see which light is lit too.
  15. so your RAM sticks speeds are mismatched? are you mismatching ECC and non-ECC?
  16. these are the only things i'd work on replacing/upgrading/changing soon. your GPU needs an upgrade bad if you plan on playing anything newer. your 2TB HDD is okay for long term storage, but i'd get an NVMe m.2 SSD for your OS. even a 256gb just for the OS would be much nicer. you can still use the 2TB for storage. just move your windows install off of it.
  17. is your bios set to UEFI? do you know if your boot flags on your drives are right? are your drive letters right on your partitions? i recently ran into a computer that had multiple SSDs and after an update all of the partitions got drive letters when they shouldn't have. C: became F: and windows became unbootable.
  18. press F1, then set up your boot order in the BIOS, then save and exit. F10 should save and exit.
  19. This all day OP, don't accept this. send it back, request a refund or a replacement.
  20. I live in a 100% humidity region all the time. I haven't seen any issues with humidity. i've lived here for years, with computers both in well cooled and dry parts of my home, and is rooms with no air conditioning or other form of humidity control.
  21. Asus Merlin is a great firmware that works on Asus routers. I'd buy whichever I could afford in their supported list. but that's personal preference. https://www.asuswrt-merlin.net/ any dumb unmanaged switch is fine.
  22. now you got me guessing about my 3080 TI, but i'm pretty sure my SFX PSU won't allow for a piggy back. EDIT: just checked it's not possible to piggyback on my current PSU.
  23. start sorting on newegg. they have some great filters. college students should not use Macs because some classes require windows only applications like Visual Studios or Solidworks.
  24. LOL wtf is this? i've never done this. i've always just used the piggyback for the 2nd plug. that's what it's for? I always thought the RM and CM series PSUs from corsair had a bad reputation. I remember a few of them being trash a decade or less ago. hell, my SF series PSU had a recall on it and it was fresh last summer. Check corsair for a recall maybe?
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