mikeywil0003

I have this older socket 1366 machine that I put together with some parts given to me. It has an Asus P6T7 WS supercomputer board and a Xeon E5645. Ever since I first put it together, it will not save the bios settings if power is disconnected. I run it 24/7 so it is not a huge problem, unless there is a power failure. I have replaced the coin cell, updated the bios, and went as far as checking the pins of the bios chip with a volt meter to make sure it was actually getting power. I don't think it has anything to do with power, because when it does lose the settings, it displays a message on POST that says "Overclock Failed." Afaik the overclocking features of this board will reset the cmos if it has a failed overclock (called CPR in Asus literature.) I believe that is what is causing the cmos to reset on its own. I have found many other forum posts online about this problem and to my knowledge, this happens with every P6T7 board, but I have not found a solution. I am not overclocking, and don't wish to, so I don't have a need for these overclocking features. Any input is appreciated. I'm sick of messing with this thing every time the power so much as flickers.

I am looking for a HTPC or streaming device that will be used with a flip down DVD screen in a vehicle. I can't seem to find something that has what I need. Maybe someone could steer me in the right direction. I need the device to have the following: Composite AV output (could use an HDMI to composite converter if needed) SPDIF audio output Coax or TOSLINK (or the ability to add with a USB DAC) Low power, powered by 5 volts or 12 volts Wifi, or the ability to use a USB Wifi adapter (I want to be able to connect to public Wifi) Infrared remote control (or the ability to add one via USB) Ability to play mkv, avi, mp4 from a USB stick Netflix (this is a must have) I have looked into using a Raspberry Pi model 2B, an Intel NUC, Roku, Apple TV, etc, but each is missing one or more features that I need. The closest I have come to finding what I need is the Raspberry Pi model 2B. It has every feature (or at least the features I needed can be added very easily,) but I am unsure of its ability to use Netflix with XBMC. I have experimented and failed to get Netflix to work with XBMC on my desktop PC, it isn't seemless, and required work-arounds. Please let me know your thoughts.

It is a Cisco SR2016 v2.2, unmanaged, I am aware that they have a problem that the ports go dead on them 4 at a time, I already preformed the fix for that, which involved replacing bad capacitors. It powers up, I get a link light on everything I plug into it, on any port. Just no device that I plug into it receives an IP address. I cant think of how I can test and know for sure this thing is dead, or functional. I isolated the problem, and it is NOT the Untangle box, I substituted a WRT54g router (DHCP server enabled) that I had laying around in place of the Untangle box, and same problem, still doesnt receive an IP address.

I just set up an untangle box to be my router...firewall...etc. I have my Westell DSL modem plugged into the WAN port on the box. The LAN port only seems to work if it is plugged directly into another machine. I am starting to think that my Cisco 16 port switch (which I havent used before) is dead. When I plug the LAN port into the switch, anything else that I plug into the switch will not get an IP address. I do get a link light on both the Untangle box, and the switch. I tried pinging the modem, and the untangle box, and get nothing. I am 99% positive all of my settings are correct because it works when I plug the LAN port directly into another machine. I dont have another switch around to do troubleshooting with. How can I test to see if this Cisco switch is functioning?

Now that im installing some things in windows, im thinking the bios might have been reporting the wrong temp. Now it says at idle it is 32c

I know how to delid without screwing it up. It would be nice if Intel would stop screwing around trying to be cheap, id pay another 50 bucks for the same CPU if it was good out of the box. I got windows installed. Im about to check my load temps.

The ambient temp is like 80f. The "System temp" is 32c. I will try the Arctic silver, but I had a feeling I would have to delid this thing. Im gonna get windows installed, and see what the load temps are, if it gets high, even with the Arctic silver, im gonna rma. If I get another hot runner from the rma, I will delid it

I just put together a new rig with an MSI z87 gd65 gaming and a 4670k. I set it up on a test bench and made sure the board posted with the stock cooler. I didn't take a look at the temps. Next, I put everything in my case (600t) and installed an h100i. Haven't even gotten windows installed yet, with everything in the bios set on default, the CPU is idling at 48-50 degrees. Is that normal? The pump is plugged in, and my fans are running at whatever speed the h100i runs them at by default. I'm used to seeing alot lower temps at idle from my Sandy bridge System. Is this normal? The TIM is the stock corsair goop. I have a tube of Arctic silver 5, that I was going to use, once I make sure it's stable, and start tinkering with clock speeds.

I will be posting a thorough build log as I put together this machine. I am OCD when it comes to aesthetics, so this thing is gonna look NICE when its all done. I am also going to mod the DeathAdder mouse with a red LED, to replace the green one, so it will match the white, black, and red color scheme of all of the other hardware. Im excited about the upgrade, I have always gone with a low budget build in the past. My current rig isn't that great. Pentium g860, 4gb ddr3 1066, h61 matx board, 7870xt, and a seagate momentus xt, in a define mini. Basically a bottleneck in a box. The ram is capped at 1066 by the cpu, it is only sata II, pci-e 2.0, the GPU is overkill compared to the other hardware, and with an h61 board, the only thing you can change in the bios is the friggin date. ;) Thanks for the feedback guys.

I just wanted awesome RAM, my current rig only has 4gb of ddr3 1066, slow, and my games force close every few hours, complaining about memory. Since I have the money, I just wanted to get something GOOD, and enough of it, that i wouldnt have to buy RAM again for another 5-6 years, Also it was a 120gb SSD that I had picked out, I am just not used to typing storage capacities in that multiple(ie 8,16,32,64,128,256), im not going to be missing that 8gb

I am putting together a Newegg order for a new build and I would like to get some feedback, good or bad, on the hardware I have picked out. This is not the first gaming PC I have ever built, but I have never worked with Haswell. This will be my daily use machine that I will also play games on. I will be doing a MILD overclock on the CPU and GPU. Any feedback would be appreciated....somebody make me click the order button. Case: Corsair 600T White Power Supply: Corsair AX760 Cooler: Corsair H100i CPU: 4670k Motherboard: MSI z87-gd65 Gaming RAM: Gskill Ripjaws Z series 2133 (4x4gb) GPU: PowerColor 7870 Myst Edition (Tahiti LE) ....I already own this card, but it will be going into this build SSD: Samsung 840 128gb Hard Disk: WD 1TB Black Keyboard: Corsair k70 black Mouse: Razer DeathAdder I am also getting a Tripp Lite 1500VA UPS (is that enough?) to go along with this system. I live in an area that got hit hard by hurricane sandy in 2012, and I get frequent outages and brownouts.

Just ordered the HX750 Corsair from newegg. Thanks for the help guys

I wanted to CFX (once AMD fixes the micro-studder issue) and go to Haswell sometime before the end of this year. Thats why I think I should get something higher than a 550w

I think I found something that will do, that is in my 80-100 dollar 650 watt price range, as long as you guys can give me a thumbs up or thumbs down. Newegg was out of stock, but I found it for the same price on amazon, http://www.amazon.com/XFX-Edition-Modular-Certified-P1650XXXB9/dp/B008O50WKG

I am leaning most towards the seasonic SSR-550RM, The cables are the neat black un-sleeved ones. Id rather have them instead of some rats nest looking OEM sleeving. Its to bad that the 650 watt version is another 30 bucks more than the 550. I wanted to go a little higher with the watts because i'm thinking about a board/cpu swap sometime in the not to distant future and wanted to give myself some headroom for upgrades. With the hardware I have now, its kind of pushing it to get a 550, that it wouldn't leave me very much room for upgrades.