solarwinggx

I plugged the GPU into the older computer and the same artifacts appeared with the most recent drivers.... It looks like I did fuck something up while putting the fan back on. I'll clean it again throughly but it looks like an RMA is in order ;( Thanks for you help!

I'll definately check this. The OS drive is installed on an SanDisk sad I bought in 2016, it hasnt been written on too much. The other drive is a Samsung 860 Evo that I just newly bought, my games are stored on this.

I tried this, and it was WAYYY more stable. Artifacts only occured once playing overwatch, but crashes still happen (one out of 5 game tests). Crashes send the computer back to windows, however, instead of requiring me to reboot the computer via the power button. I tried running firestrike ultra 2 times, and both times, it didnt make it over 30 seconds without crashing + artifacts. it eventually made it back into windows, however. All these tests were ran on the newest nvidia drivers 419.

Why would OC ram cause GPU artifacts

I just installed a new air cooled itx system using old parts from my watercooled build (z270i, 6700k, 980ti Strix, 2x16 3200mhz ram via XMP profile, 750 SFX psu) running Windows 10 (no code). I installed all updated drivers and firmware. After installing and testing games (overwatch, destiny 2, gtav, darksouls 3), the games will boot up for a minute or two, then freeze my computer. Sometimes Windows won't crash, and it'll say rendering device has been lost. Other times it will crash with graphical artifacts on my screen (red streaks/blocks). No blue screens. I've already tried installing older drivers (all the way from 416 to 367). This method has brought stability twice. I was able to play games with no crashes stutters or anything for ~2 hours, but the moment I turn the computer off and come back to reuse it, the crashes return. I've tried running the PC via the motherboard monitor to see more stability, but it also crashes, albeit less frequently (blue screen and freezes, no artifacts). I never tried gaming with this method since it blue screened so fast, I didn't have time to boot anything up I've tried reinstalling windows, didn't help. This 980ti was working in my water cooling loop for the past 3 years. I've torn it apart many times to maintain it without issue. Now that it's in my it's build ive put back the cooler with its corresponding thermal pads. The cooler works normally, everything is plugged in. Temps are completely stable, nothing going over 50c on both VRAM and the GPU chip when testing (it crashes too fast to warm up significantly). When it didn't crash, temps didn't past 75c. Cpu temps didn't surpass 70. Wattage is fine also, I used hwinfo64 and the GPU is only pulling 200-300 from the wall. Plenty of power left. Stuff I plan to try... I'm going to try plugging it into my old PC (the water cooled PC) and seeing it produces the same errors. I think that can help me rule out whether or not the GPU is broken or not. I'm going to try returning the ram to stock settings to see if it'll help. I'm going to take apart the GPU and thoroughly clean it. There's left over thermal pad a scraps on it from the water block installation. I'll use my microscope to get every nook and cranny. What else should I try before RMAing?

Hey guys, Im putting the fans back on this gpu after watercooling it for a long time, but i dont remember if the Vram had thermal pads on it. I know that the VRM's had a thermal pad on them, but not other parts of the device. Can someone who owns this/has experience let me know which components on this GPU has thermal pads? Thanks

I figured it out I installed the wrong version of windows, my laptop came with Windows 10 home edition, and i installed windows 10 Pro edition by accident. I just reinstalled windows and it activated with no issues Thanks for all the help!

Thats not possible, i had a genuine license that came with the laptop. It ported over when during the free windows 10 from windows 8 fiasco and i had no issues with it asking me to activate windows for the 5 year duration that i had the laptop!

why is this showing up then? I did all the windows updates

I reformatted my harddrive and reinstalled windows 10 on it. Unfortunately i forgot to write down my windows 10 activation key. I know that windows 10 licenses are linked to mother boards these days, is there a way to get the key back?

i bought it in summer of 2013, so close to 5 years Asus g750jw

you're saying that the original disk that came with my laptop has the drivers necessary to give full keyboard functionality back to my laptop?

i already said that i tried going here to get the right drivers for my keyboard, but it didnt help me get my Fn functionality back and only gave me a bunch of bloat ware. Thank you for being so condescending.

I'm going to sell my laptop soon, and I plan on running DBAN (a secure hard drive wipe tool) on my harddrive; however, I want to make sure that when i install windows 10, the keyboard's FN commands still work (volume, keyboard dim/light, brightness, touch pad disable, etc). I had a bad experience with my laptop (Asus G750jw) when i upgraded my harddrive to an SSD. After a fresh install of windows 10, i lost alot of the functionality of my keyboard. Specifically i couldnt increase and decrease the lights on my keyboard anymore, and i couldnt disable the touch pad. I know its not a hardware issue because when i load back the old harddrive, the keyboard FN functions still work normally. Is there a location i can find the specific drivers needed to maintain keyboard function/ everything else? My laptop model's website just gives me shitty bloatware to download and nothing to give the keyboard it's FN functionality Thanks!

Thanks for the explanation! What temps are considered acceptable for vrms when you overclock?

Im not in a hurry, Thank you for the help! Whats wrong with Z chips?

thank you for this information. I love the motherboard though, so im going to go buy some MOSFET heat sinks and thermal tape and hope for the best. Since you had the motherboard, I was wondering if you could give me the dimensions of the heat sink labeled Strix (left of CPU socket)? I really only need the length but if you could get me the width of the lower heatsink, cookies for you My plan is to remove the aluminium heat sink and replace them with these guys: https://www.amazon.com/Enzotech-Mosfet-Passive-Copper-10-pack/dp/B004CLDIHK/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1522397176&sr=8-9&keywords=mosfet+heatsink Buy a thin-ish copper plate, drill cutouts for the pegs sticking out, and screw the whole thing in where the holes (with protective washers ofc) for the heat sink originally are. It should be sufficient to cool the mosfets with the heatsink removed. What do you think?

i wish

you tried this yourself? how do you know?

what plastic shroud?? you mean the thing that is labeled Strix? I thought that was contiguous with the heat sink (its one whole unit). Your x370 Pro's heat sink looks much lower and further from the CPU socket. The Z270i/z370i has the heat sink closer and taller looking than the x370. https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/PRIME-X370-PRO/ https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/ROG-STRIX-Z270-I-GAMING/

its been two weeks and cryorig hasnt gotten back to me. Ive been using review pictures to see if it'll fit, but its alot of guestimation work I could buy individual copper heatsinks to put on the mosfets but im dont want to do that if it isnt nessesary

which ones are you using as a reference?

These two motherboards have the same annoying strix labeled heat sinks to the left of the CPU socket. I want to know if the cryorig R1 ultimate will fit on either of this itx boards. No one on pcparkpicker has done it, and there are only two threads with no real answers. Cryorig also hasn't responded to me over a week. I know it fits on the z170i because of its smaller heatsink, but I would prefer to buy the z270i instead. The z370i just has the same shape of board as the z270i. Has anyone done this or have a board they can test for me? Cryorig has a cutout that can be printed out to simulate the heat sink's physical space if you have a spare board. Thanks!!

what happened to the cables being incompatible between brands?

Fractal design Core 500, and my mobo is the ROG STRIX Z270-I As you can see, the only long cable i need is the cpu one. This is not my build, but you can get a sense of how close everything is https://pcpartpicker.com/b/mPvnTW