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Posts
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Steam
xeromynd
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Twitter
twitter.com/xeromynd
Profile Information
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Gender
Male
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Location
Philadelphia
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Interests
Music & Audio, Electronic Music, Cooking, Computers, Gaming, Cats, Mexican Food, Chipotle, Fresh Salsa, PC Building, Chapstick
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Biography
Margarine is for assholes.
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Occupation
Audio Engineer
System
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CPU
I7-5820k
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Motherboard
Asus X99-Pro
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RAM
16GB Dominator DDR4 2666
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GPU
EVGA GTX 980 SC ACX2.0
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Case
Fractal Define R5
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Storage
1x 840 Evo 500GB - 3x WD Black 1TB
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PSU
HX750i
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Display(s)
2x Asus VS228H-P
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Cooling
Kraken x61 - 6x NF-A14 iPPC
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Keyboard
Corsair K70 Cherry Mx RGB Brown
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Mouse
Logitech G502
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Sound
Scarlett 8i6 - KRK RP6 G2 - AV40's - DT880 - HD280
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Operating System
Windows 7 Pro
Recent Profile Visitors
1,426 profile views
xeromynd's Achievements
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So I'm not really sure if this is even the right place to post this but here goes: I'm diving into smart home/IoT stuff for the first time. I really only want Smart Bulbs (multicolor LED) and some small Smart Outlets to start, but will eventually expand to a Smart Thermostat and possibly smart speakers for certain rooms in the house. I think most other IoT devices are useless and will never be interested in Smart Fridges, Smart TVs, Smart Toasters, Smart Bidets, etc... I want to do my "Smart" stuff right. I want to make sure I start diving into home automation with properly secure hardware, if that makes sense. I've done a fair bit of research into the different standards; zigbee, z-wave etc... and know about the major offerings from Amazon, Google, etc... but am not sure what forumgoers here would recommend. Voice control would be cool to have I guess, but not absolutely necessary at this moment. Right now I'm looking for **smart lightbulbs** (LED, multicolor, ability to control via. an app), and **small smart outlets/plugs** (ability to control via. app). My questions: - Do I need (or is it smart to purchase) some sort of hub for my house? - Is it a terrible move to invest Amazon or Google hardware? I want to maintain my security, are these really as bad as they're made out to be? (Always on mics, data collecting, privacy, etc..?) - Idk, any other advice?
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Recommendations for a 6-port router for a 900 sq. ft. home?
xeromynd replied to xeromynd's topic in Networking
Yeah I guess I mean 8-port then. I was looking at some ASUS ones with 8 ports so I know there are ones out there but honestly I'm thinking it's probably just cheaper to get a solid 4-port router and a nice switch.- 3 replies
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Hey yall. I’m looking for recommendations for a quality 6-port wireless router that will cover my household well. I live in a 900 sq. ft. row home in the city all internal walls are drywall, so it’s really not that big of a property to cover wirelessly. My experience with the new FiOS router (white trash can) has just been terrible and getting FiOS to do anything about it has been a nightmare. I suspect there my be issues at the ONT level, but that’s another ordeal I’m trying to get them to check out. I’m looking for a 6-port router to support all my wired devices, 3x PCs, 2x Roku Ultras, and 1x Arlo Cam System. I currently have a FiOS gigabit plan with tested speeds of ~600 down / ~850 up (surprisingly). I want something GOOD. Something stable. I’ve tried my hand with various Netgear routers and most recently the TPLink Archer C5400 which lasted for about a year then began producing issues. I’d also prefer something not crazy expensive if possible (but at the end of the day I’d rather pay more for a quality router than a piece of shit that’ll last <2 years.) Anything fit the bill here? Thanks!
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Hey yall, I've moved into a new house where a physical ethernet connection to my main gaming PC (floor above the router) might not be an option. Running a cable is not feasible as there is only hardwood flooring throughout the house, and I'm nowhere near handy enough to install an RJ45 outlet through the wall. I've considered paying a contractor or handyman, but I'm not sure of that cost versus just buying a Powerline Adapter and winging it. I'm looking into Powerline Adapters and want to make sure I get the best one possible that can carry my gigabit connection. (Well, realistically 800-ish mpbs, not like you always get gigabit with FiOS) Any recommendations on a good adapter? I used an old Netgear adapter two apartments ago (back in early 2010's) and it was....eh. Not sure if that was because of the apartment's wiring or if it was just a shitty adapter. Also, curious of any downsides to powerline networking. Should I expect an increase in lag/ping? What are the downsides versus just using a long ethernet cable. Thanks my dudes!
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Hate to clog up the forums here with such a post but I was looking to exchange some merch I purchased for a smaller size. Contacted the support email listed on LTTStore.com but haven't heard back in over a week. I understand the pandemic has everything a mess right now, but I'd at least like an acknowledgment if response times are taking longer than usual, ya know? Anyone know if there's a specific email (person) I could message or ping on Twitter? Thanks!
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Wondering if any owners of this keyboard can share some details with me. I am in the market for a full size wireless keyboard for Mac, and this is one of the only ones I can find at a decent pricepoint. - Does this keyboard charge over USB in addition to the solar charging? - This keyboard will spend most of its time underneath a desk (on a keyboard tray), and I'm worried it won't get enough light to charge enough, what do you think? If it turns out this keyboard won't meet my needs, are there other keyboards you recommend? I currently have a Kanex Bluetooth MultiSync Keyboard and it's pretty garbage. Loses connection, laggy typing, some keys are starting to give way and require harder presses to activate, flimsy material, etc....
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Asus X99-Pro QCode bF (The issue returns!)
xeromynd posted a topic in CPUs, Motherboards, and Memory
So about a year ago I posted this thread: (Instead of Necro-ing, which I believe is bad, I'm posting anew) tldr: PC occasionally wouldn't boot, took up to as many as 4 retries to attain a successful boot (with Q Code "AA" or "40") When the PC wouldn't boot, the Q Code was "bF" which the manual states is "Reserved for Future AMI Codes" - no help there, manual. As I stated in the last thread, I replaced my ram (Dominator DDR4 16GB 2666) with a new kit (Crucial Ballistic 16GB 2400), and at first, the issues went away....... .....but now its back. About a year later and I've been experiencing the same crap for a few months. I called Asus today. Their support guy (sounded like he was reading from a handbook) told me that this Q Code is related to having too low of System Agent Voltage or VCore. My current System Agent Voltage is 1.0V (as reccommended by Linus in the ultimate X99 Overclocking Guide) and my VCore is 1.29V. I've read around that the "safe" voltage for X99 / 5820K stops at 1.3V, that true? What boggles the mind is that the Asus rep told me told "reset everything" to default settings, and the "error code should disappear entirely" If memory serves, the VCore and Sys Agent defaults are EVEN LOWER than what I have them now, I don't see how that would solve my problem. Here's my system: MOBO: Asus X99-Pro CPU: i7-5820k - OC @ 4.2GHz (Baseclock at 100, Multiplier at 42) - VCore at 1.29V - This has been stressed with Aida64 for 10 hrs and is fine. Cooling: Kraken x61 GPU: GTX 980 - Underclocked -25MHz (Because that's what I need to do to get that bitch stable, ugh) PSU: Corsair HX750i RAM: Crucial Ballistix Elite DDR4 16GB @ 2133 (No XMP) This issue has now persisted across two different GPUs (760 and 980), and across two kits of RAM (Dominator 16GB and Ballistix 16GB) Has anyone else had this issue? (Q Code bF) and found a solution or workaround? My motherboard IS still under warranty, can send for an RMA if possible (though I've no idea if they'll find anything) but that's a major bummer, as I'll be without my PC for weeks. -
OK, here's an update, and something interesting. There may still be some of us that have successful orders. Here's a timeline: > See the deal on SlickDeals, "well daaaamn!" Order ONE SSD > Posted this thread so people could find out about the deal > Maybe an hour goes by > Think to myself "well shit, might as well order more" > Order two more. TODAY, at about 3:00PM EST, I received a cancellation email for my SECOND order only. I have yet to receive a cancellation on my first order (I double checked the order numbers). So I'm not going to mark this solved until I either A.) Get a shipment notification -- or -- B.) Get a cancellation of my FIRST order as well. tl;dr THERE MIGHT STILL BE HOPE!
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** EDIT** I did recevive a cancellation email, but this was only for ONE of TWO orders I placed. The first one appears to still have gone through (no cancellation on that one yet) See my post below v v v
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Fractal Define C - Top Push/Pull fan config possible?
xeromynd replied to xeromynd's topic in Power Supplies
Ah damn, must've skipped over that, thanks! -
Order confirmation emails came last night after I ordered. No indication of them canceling orders yet, though I imagine it would take some time to write up an apology/cancellation email and send it to all buyers. So far so good. Congrats to everyone that got one, this thread was pretty active last night, plus there were over 1000+ posts on SlickDeals about this, one dude saying he bought over 100 for a company.
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Surely they would just cancel the order, not charge your payment method for the price difference.
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Well, the website is Dell, and myself and my friend just ordered a few. Order went through, so.....
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The free shipping is icing on the cake.
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So this seems like borderline pricing error levels of savings: http://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/wd-blue-pc-ssd-wds250g1b0a-solid-state-drive-250-gb-internal-2-5-inch-sata-6gb-s/apd/a9301054/storage-drives-media I just picked up two for an HTPC and any other forthcoming projects because for that price....why the f**k not??? **EDIT** Price Confirmed, just successfully placed an order. Shipping is FREE as well.