In story driven games you're not supposed to identify as the character. That's the whole point of story-driven games. It's a protagonist, with a fixed story that only makes sense within certain boundaries and fixed characters.
It makes no sense making it a female character if it was supposed to be a story about a man. And a female player could just as easily idenfity with (not as) that character as a male would. Just like the opposite is true. Every man could identify with Jade, or Zoë or Samus or Lara Croft.
They will then realize that nobody will buy it. But that's ofcourse not because nobody is interested in playing that tosh, but because of toxic masculinity that has brainwashed everyone. Projection set to 11.
So I have been around for a while on LTT and various forums, and everyone always ask questions about "how to install Windows" or they have troubleshooting questions which always leads to the individual not installing Windows correctly to begin with. Yet I never find a thread that just guides people through installing Windows! So I have sat down for a few hours and built what I consider a fairly comprehensive guide to installing Windows the right way.
***I will be updating it here in a few days with some revisions (grammar is going to suck ass right now, after spending the better part of 3 hours writing this I didn't revise it too much)***
Maybe some of you are wondering what makes doing this "Clean Install" of Windows so special, well I could type it out, or... you can just go ahead and watch learn! This is geared towards the recent release of Windows 10 and everyone doing the upgrade, but it applies to all versions and all (99%) situations.
How To Install Windows… Right!
This article is specifically designed to teach everyone how to install Windows without any further issues. Keep in mind you can cut corners, at your own risk. If you ever do decide to cut these corners NO ONE can guarantee the install will go without hitch and that you will/wont have issues down the road. Every step here has a purpose, which will be explained in some detail, nothing here done is done without reason. Please read the WHOLE post before doing ANYTHING!
Things you’ll need:
1. A USB Flash drive (I’d suggest at least 8GB, but not more than 32GB {some older motherboards wont boot with USB drives larger than 32GB}) 2. Time, 3-5 hours is about typical. 3. A copy of Windows. This WILL work with any version of Windows, but the instructions are based around Windows 8.
NOTE: This is also destructive, so you will want to back up EVERYTHING you want beforehand. I highly advise against using any automated software for backups, please instead just copy and paste the data you want to save over to external storage of some sort (USB HDD, NAS, another computer, Cloud Storage are all options here) but that WILL NOT be included in this process guide.
Step 1: Preparation of Install Media
This process is the more lengthy of all the processes, but when done correctly everything else is SO much easier. Also, this process can be done while your current install is still up and going. So you can still play a game while stuff downloads and so on.
Step A: Getting Windows Install Media
Many people will already have Windows Install media. This can be acquired from Microsoft (http://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msusa/en_US/cat/Windows-8.1/categoryID.62684800?icid=L2_Nav_Promo_Store_Windows_011415) for $119.99 at a normal price. You can also find this other places, like Amazon, for (usually) a little less although you will have to wait for them to send you a disk (yuck physical media).
If you already have purchased a copy of Windows before (either physical or digital) you can also use Microsoft’s service to take your product key and download a copy of that install media on the fly (http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-8/upgrade-product-key-only) or you can use this http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-8/create-reset-refresh-media.
UPDATE FOR WINDOWS 10 USERS: I will not be updating this guide IMMEDIATLY for a comprehensive guide for Windows 10 installations. But, I will go ahead and include the place you need to go to in order to get a copy of the ISO. Please, take caution and PLEASE read all the instructions and make informed decisions.
Windows 10 Media Creation Tool: http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-10/media-creation-tool-install
The PREFERED METHOD of doing this (for this guide anyways) is downloading the files and saving them as a ISO. We’re not currently ready to put the ISO anywhere yet.
NOTE: Do not, I repeat DO NOT, download a copy of Windows from a public torrent or other NON-MICROSOFT source. Reason for this is because you don’t know WHAT people have done to the ISO, what software they might have slipstreamed in the install, if it is a OEM copy or Retail, and if the ISO isn’t corrupt in some way. You might be able to get the ISO on the drive, and get drive formatted then realize that the download had a sector or two that was janky because Bob’s HDD from China had a few dead sectors on it.
Step B: Putting the Windows Install Media on a Boot Drive
This step is generally the easiest step of the whole process. I personally like to use the Windows 7 USB/DVD Tool. You can get that from here: http://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/windows-usb-dvd-download-tool
Once you download and install this tool (should take no longer than 2 minutes total) all you have to do is run the tool, then select the ISO that we downloaded in “Step A” and then select where you want this ISO to be mounted. I usually select a USB Drive of some sort. It will destroy anything on the drive. This process will take a while, about 15 minutes. This is when you can start to gather your drivers together.
NOTE: I always save my ISO to my NAS so I don’t have to download it again in the future. This is also useful if Microsoft ever does to decide to quit giving us the option to get the ISO with just a product key, or when they quit producing this software.
Step 2: Gathering Drivers
This step is the longest step, and is the part that most people fail on in some way. I will personally be providing the steps for my personal computer, which you can see in my profile.
Step A: Gathering your parts
The key in this step is don’t leave any part untouched. These are the following components that I have, and are the most common for users:
Motherboard ASUS Crossblade Ranger CPU AMD A10-7850k Video Card ASUS R9290-4GD5 Keyboard Logitech G105 Mouse Logitech G600 Headset Logitech G930 Wireless Adapter ASUS PCE-AC68 Cooling Solution NZXT Kraken X41 and X61 Water Cooling (This isn’t quite as common)
NOTE: The big part here is making sure you know what kind of parts you’re using. For example, when I say I have a ASUS R9-290 that is fine, because ASUS only came out with one version of this card the R9290-4GD5. But if you said you had a ASUS GTX780Ti, you would then have yourself a bad situation. See the links below.
Notice both of these are ASUS GTX780Ti cards. But they have different model numbers. One is the MATRIX-GTX780TiP-3GD5 and the other is the GTX780Ti-DC2OC-3GD5. And if you will look under “Windows 8.1 64bit” you will see that they both have drivers there, but they are not the same version number. ASUS has updated one of them a little further, for whatever reason they have. Realistically both drivers will probably work with both cards, but to the point, we don’t know that and they could very easily not work on some level. And before someone says “It’s the same GPU from NVidia so the driver will work” keep in mind that the two drivers ARE DIFFERENT, its clearly obvious with the driver version and even more obvious when you look at the download size of the files and see that they are different sizes. One has more than the other, so SOMETHING in those drivers is different, we don’t know which is which. END POINT don’t take the easy route out and just grab “any ol’ GTX780Ti” driver, get the one designed to work WITH your specific card.
Step B: Downloading Drivers
So once you know what hardware you have finding the drivers is fairly simple. I will use my Crossblade Ranger as the example for this step.
1. Go to ASUS’s (my manufacture) website, asus.com. 2. Navigate to the “Support” section of their website (this can be called something different based on the manufacture). Usually you can just use “support.asus.com” or “asus.com/support” to directly go to this section of their website. 3. Once you get to this section, you can simply search for your product, be sure to use the correct model number, or you can use their navigation drop down boxes. 4. At this point you should find yourself at the motherboard’s support page, you then navigate to the “Driver & Tools” section, sometimes called “Downloads” or any other variation. 5. Usually you’ll have to select your OS (if you don’t, I would be extra careful to what you download) 6. Download stuff! So here is how you’re going to approach this, download everything. If you’re in doubt, download it. If you decide to not install it later, that’s cool, but at least you’ll have it. But here is some rules you can follow to determine what exactly is necessary. a. BIOS files aren’t required. These are tricky and risky, and have no bearings on installing a OS (generally) b. Manuals or any kind of Vendor List aren’t useful. These are only good once you have a OS installed and can view (usually) PDF’s. c. Older Drivers don’t do you any good. Base this off of the DATE not the version number. 7. As a general rule, save these as a more common file name. For example I save my chipset driver as “Chipset” instead of “AMD_Chipset_Win7-8-8-1_V809160_809150.zip” like ASUS defaults to. But this is just so things are clean and easy and has NO bearings on the end result.
You also need to differentiate between “Utilities” and “Drivers”. Drivers are 100% necessary, and Utilities are 99% recommended. For this motherboard, the Drivers are the following: Chipset, Audio, VGA, LAN, USB, SATA. Utilities are following: CPU-Z, ROG Game First, RAMDisk, KeyBot, AI Suite, HomeCloud, PC Diagnostics, AO Help, Boot Settings, and WebStorage.
Each of the Utilities have a purpose and most are extremely useful, and if nothing else are good to have installed even if you never end up using them. For example, my LAN driver allows me to actually use my LAN port; without the LAN driver the LAN port may not work, or will work like poo. Although the Utility (ROG Game First) on the other hand wont fundamentally change anything, but it will allow packet prioritization, monitoring of network, and so on which the driver itself doesn’t do.
Step C: Organizing Drivers (optional)
This step can be done “on the fly” as you’re downloading the drivers. I personally make a folder and name it the name of my PC “Phantom Ranger” and then create another folder inside of that folder for each component, in this case “Crossblade Ranger” then put the drivers for that component inside that folder. I have, in the past, created another folder inside the component folder for the Utilities, but sometimes that is more trouble than needed. So my folder tree will look something like this:
Phantom Ranger -Crossblade Ranger Chipset Audio LAN VGA ETC… - ASUS R9290-4GD5 AMD CCC -Logitech ETC…
The end result of this step of gathering drivers is make sure you get all the drivers for all your products in a folder that you can navigate easily. I then take the Driver folder and just copy and paste it onto the boot drive that should be done by now.
Occasionally I will go ahead and make a generalized “Software” folder. This makes installing my favorite programs like Steam, Audacity, uTorrent, 7-Zip, and so on a lot quicker. Instead of having to download these at the end, I can do it now when I still have my computer up and running and still have access to these programs as they are.
Step 3: Installing Windows
KEY POINT: At this point DISCONNECT ALL SOURCES TO INTERNET TO THIS DEVICE. Do not reconnect internet sources UNTIL told.
Step A: Booting to Media
After you get your boot media made (Steps 1 and 2) plug it into the machine you want to Install Windows on and then turn it on, and press the motherboards “Boot Selection” key on your keyboard until you get the option (F8 for my motherboard, you can find this in your manual). With Windows 8 and my motherboard, I select the UEFI version of my USB Drive and it will start the process.
Step B: Deleting Old Data and Partitioning Drive
Once the boot media loads everything necessary, it will bring you to an install window. You will need to select your language, choose the install method, accept the terms, choose custom install. Obviously you select the language you want, and you will choose Install instead of the “repair” option. As the repair option only brings up things like a memory test, basic file restoration, and boot repair. You don’t want to choose the “Upgrade path” for a clean install of Windows, choosing a “Upgrade” will leave MANY files behind and can often lead to having the same problems you had been having from before.
After all of that, you will want to load your SATA drivers if you have them available. Sometimes you will have to unzip them before you finish making your install media. We do this now so there are no issues writing your data to your hard drive. Last thing we want is corrupted data. All you have to do is click on the load driver button, then navigate to your driver folder for the SATA device. If you’re using a RAID controller look for that, otherwise you’re probably looking for a AHCI folder of some sort.
Everything up until this point has been nondestructive, once you cross THIS LINE you will destroy all your old data AND IT WILL NOT BE RECOVERABLE. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ After you choose the “Custom” path you want to select each partition, and delete ALL of them on the drive. When you’re done you should have one single “unpartitioned” selection. Just click it, then click the “New” button. This will create the Recovery, System, and MSR partitions automatically, and assign them accordingly. Once this is done (should take all of a few seconds) click next. Windows will start doing all it needs to do and then restart, occasionally it will restart 2-3 times not just once this depends on the hardware.
Step C: “Personalizing” Windows
This is fairly straight forward. Set a user name, choose the options you want (I leave everything default personally), just whatever you choose DO NOT connect the computer to the internet. Once you get to the start screen you’re off to the final steps!
Step 4: Setting Up Windows
This is the final part, and doesn’t take too long just quite a bit of patience. A general rule of thumb is restart EVERY time it ask you to, which will be often (after almost every driver install). Another point is do not install drivers from inside of zip files, unzip them first then install from the normal file folder. Do not install any programs before you install drivers. I always copy my driver folder from my USB drive to my desktop and then operate inside the folder on my desktop (a lot faster and you don’t have to worry about the USB Bus being disconnected while a driver is installing causing the installer to not see the drive anymore and corrupting data)
Step A: Installing Drivers
There are 3 basic types of driver installs. I will guide you through each, starting with the easiest and ending with the more complex.
1. Exe installers – these installers are fairly simple, all you do is double click them and follow the instructions. They will extract, configure, and install themselves. These are fairly automated and require basic reading skills, that’s it.
2. Zip/folder installers – These installers are mostly simple. You unzip the zip file then go into the unzipped folder and run the “setup.exe” file. With my motherboard, you actually want to select the “AsusSetup.exe” file. This is a semi common practice, they build the separate drivers together in the same zip folder for several builds of Windows (one for Windows 7 one for Windows 8, and also one each for x64 and x86 are some examples) so you could have half a dozen actual drivers somewhere in this folder that you have unzipped. The manufacture in this case, will create their own setup file to determine which installer to run. SIMPLE INSTRUCTION run the exe file located in the unzipped directory. If you have questions consult the manufacture.
3. Propriety zip/folder installers – these are most common on OEM machines. My best example is (let’s say) a Toshiba notebook computer. You will download the driver from support.toshiba.com and it will look like a exe file, but when you double click it (if you’ll notice) it actually starts to unzip a bunch of compressed files (usually to c:/user/%user%/AppData/Temp or something like that) and then when it is done unzipping it will ask you if you want to run the newly unzipped files. Just click yes and it will work. What makes this different than the Zip/folder installers is that with older machines when you’re installing a different version of Windows than intended with the installer originally, it just won’t work. I tell you this so you can keep note and find the files you need in the unzipped directory. This should be done carefully and with some thought beforehand.
Once you know how to install a specific driver, you need to make sure you actually install them in a logical fashion. The best way I know how to explain it is as follows: When a manufacture makes a motherboard they often times like to add more stuff to the board than what comes with the native chipset. For example, Intel’s x97 chipset can only support 6 USB 3.0 ports (http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/chipsets/performance-chipsets/z97-chipset.html), but it doesn’t support Bluetooth natively. So ASUS might decide to take 1 of those USB 3.0 ports and break it off and put a Bluetooth module on it. You’ll never have that physical 6th port, but it will have Bluetooth solution on the PCB of the motherboard. You can’t install the Bluetooth driver before you install the chipset driver, because without the chipset driver your USB ports may not function correctly thus the Bluetooth device is never detected at all.
With all that said, this is the normal way I install drivers:
1. Chipset (Northbridge then Southbridge) 2. Chipset additions (this includes Intel Engine Management or things of that nature) 3. SATA (if you need additional drivers) 4. Audio 5. LAN 6. Video (I always install integrated drivers first then install dedicated video, sometimes you can completely pass on the integrated driver {like with my build} because the way CCC installs) 7. USB 8. All other drivers. At this point it “shouldn’t” matter. If you run into problems consult your manufacture.
At this point (for all of you meticulous people) you can check your device manager and all your devices SHOULD be accounted for. If you have any devices that are unknown then you didn’t download all the drivers for all your devices. You should use another computer to find the driver you need. If you cant figure out which driver you need, grab the “Hardware Ids” from the “Details” tab once you right click on the troubled device and click on “Properties”. Once you have the Hardware Ids just type it in a search engine and it should point you in the direction of the device you forgot to get a driver for. But whatever you do, don’t connect your computer to the internet just yet!
Step B: Install Utilities
At this point you’ll understand how to operate installers. So just find your way back to your folder on your desktop then install all the utilities you got. Restart upon request but always restart no matter what when you have finished installing your last utility.
Step C: Install Windows Updates
This is the point where you can finally connect your computer to the internet. Once your computer has restarted after you have finished installing DRIVERS AND UTILITIES go ahead and connect your computer to the internet and open Windows Update and check for updates. This might take a few minutes but give it time. Once it’s done look at the list of updates, I would select ALL of the updates BESIDES the Hardware updates. For example, I would go ahead and check all of them but the “AMD Graphics Driver”. Let it download and install all the updates, then restart your machine. Because of the vast number of updates you could have (most people have close to 100 or more) I wouldn’t perform any other actions because it could interfere with a critical update that is altering a file. Best bet is to just simply click the install button and let the computer sit for about a hour, checking on it every 10-15 minutes or so. (Don’t let it sit for too long because it WILL go to sleep as Window’s default sleep cycle is 20 minutes I believe).
Once done restart the computer and check again. Usually you’ll have to check for updates 2-3 times before it doesn’t find any more new updates. But once it’s done then you can research if you want to allow Windows Update to install the hardware updates. I personally, will usually just hide all hardware updates because the Windows Update version of the driver is often more out of date than the one you’ll get from the manufacture. But occasionally you will receive benefit from installing the Windows Update version of the driver.
NOTE: This is why you shouldn’t connect your computer to the internet until all the drivers are set. When you’re installing your drivers you don’t want Windows installing updates and potentially be installing the same device driver at the same time! Also when installing a driver, you don’t want to be messing with critical Windows files as they are OFTEN interwoven somehow.
Step D: Install Software
This is it, now you can install all your personal software on your machine. It should be up to date and running like a champ.
If you force install Windows 10, be prepared for driver related issues.
Microsoft is blocking the update for those who has hardware that has issues with their drivers under Windows 10.
The "Get Windows 10" app tell you about this, if that is the case. Else it will tell you it is being released in waves in which case, you can wait, or force the update.
Weird. Well still they will last you well over 10 years. There's a decent chance that they'll deteriorate a bit (won't be able to give out its rated wattage after a few years) but that shouldn't trouble most people.
So of course the 980Ti comes out and is the new go-to high end card recommendation. And I totally understand that because hey, the Titan X makes almost no sense unless you really need 12 GB of VRAM or the e-peen status that comes with it. Props to you for dropping $1000.00USD, most of us can't afford it. GGWP and all that jazz.
BUT FOR TECH'S SAKE
Stop saying the 980 makes no sense based on Linus's release day video.
I come across the same recommendations over and over again when someone wants advice on a new graphics card. Often times the question is: "Should I upgrade graphics card XXXX and get a 980?" And immediately I will see 2-3 people say something along these lines: "The 980 doesn't give good performance per dollar. Get the 970 or 980Ti. Just watch Linus's video, he explains it!"
Do you know what I say to those people?
You don't know what you're talking about.
Let me break it down so people will understand why Linus's line at the end of his video does not apply whatsoever. For those of you who don't know, one of the last things he said in his 980Ti launch video was this:
"If you're an enthusiast who wants outstanding gaming performance, without feeling like kind of a dumbass, you're buying (at least if you're shopping on the Nvidia side) a GTX 970 or a 980Ti; with the Titan X and the 980 left pretty much out in the cold."
So first an explanation and context of his quote. The video was released on May 31st of this year, the release date of the 980Ti. At the time the price skew went something like this:
We know from benchmarks that the difference in performance between the 970 and the 980 is 10-20% based on benchmarks, dependent entirely on the game of course. So it's a $210USD price differece for that gain, essentially $10/percentage gain.
We also know from the benchmarks Linus did that the 980Ti offers almost a 20% average performance gain over the 980! WOW! And for only $90USD more!? Take my money!
Well...no. Because that's actually that's not how it is at all.
Linus's video was released on launch day. And I'm sure we all know what happened a couple days later, don't we? You don't? Well let me tell you. Short and sweet, the GTX980 dropped in price. It's only $500 now. So actually, it makes perfect sense from a price to performance standpoint.
What's that? You don't understand? "Your great lord almighty Linus can't possibly be wrong?" Well let me spell it out nice and clear.
IT'S THE SAME PRICE TO PERFORMANCE GAIN
The GTX 970 comes ~10-20% short of the 980, for $150 less.
The GTX 980 comes ~10-20% short of the 980Ti, $150 less
Please people, you can have your opinions on what "makes sense" to you. But to sum this all up here's what you should always do when buying a graphics card:
Buy the best card you can at the price you can afford. And for f***'s sake, pull the trigger.
"Get the 980Ti, it's only $150 more!"
Last I checked, for the majority of people, $150 is not a small amount of money. In PC part terms that's a significant leap in price. And for quite a few people would require waiting weeks or possibly even months to save up that difference. PCs move fast people. By the time they save up the extra cash there's going to be something newer and better right around the corner; and those same people that suggested the 980Ti will be saying "No, don't buy the XXXX graphics card. Just wait! ZZZZ graphics card is going to be out in a couple months!" And little Bob-Joe-bob has been sitting twiddling his thumbs for 6 months and still doesn't have his gaming computer he worked really hard and saved up for.
The 970 makes sense at $350
The 980 makes sense at $500
and the 980Ti makes sense at $650
Don't blindly follow the advice of a single person on YouTube; especially when they make outlandish and downright UNINFORMED STATEMENTS like what Linus did in that video.
@LinusTech , if you end up reading this: You done messed up.
You want simple? How about this for simple: The FCC has no business getting involved in providing public assistance to anyone.
We are a nation of laws, no?
The FCC was established by Congress for the purpose of regulating interstate communications by radio, television, wire, satellite, and cable in all 50 states, the District of Columbia and U.S. territories. If anyone wants them to get into the welfare game then Congress needs to pass a law telling them to do that.
What's next, the FBI passing out milk and cookies to daycare kids?
@ppittman13
How old is your house? Any phone jacks in the room? Newer homes usually have cat5 ran even for phone jacks. It's worth a shot to look before buying something that you might not need.
with telephone lines it is common practice to daisy chain line from one jack to the next. Chances are the cable connections only extend the Blue /white wires and or the Orange/ White wires through the phone jacks unless you have more than 1 telephone line.
The Green/wires and the Brown/White will not be connected. All the cat 5 connections use the Green and Brown pairs for data transmit receive.
Ps I would fire my staff if the did such a crappy cable job like that junction box.
First impression I had was surely not a licenced contactor and definitely would not pass cat5 certification. Good Luck
This is just ONE of the many reasons why I voted Ron Paul the past two RIGGED presidential elections ( 2004 and 2008). He isn't, at heart, a republiCRAT nor a demoCAN. He is a FREE thinking intelligent decent baby delivering human being. Sad that he had to retire. Oh well, his son, Rand, is probably the closest REAL chance we have at REAL change ( unlike the kind barry seotoro aka oBUMMER kept promising in his campaign rhetoric).
People, it's not rocket science and it doesn't even require a college or high school level education.
" If you do the same things you've always done...using same methods, every time against the same problems and expect DIFFERENT results, THAT is the definition of insanity ( and imo asininity)."
If you TRULY want to fix our nation with anything you MAY have control over, STOP voting for the same "polished-ticians". Rand Paul is THE ONLY obvious choice. He's a libertarian at heart ( something we have NEVER had. Also don't say George Washington. Technically he was an old school democrat, which isn't MUCH of a problem imo, but still didn't have sense enough to abolish slavery)
Let the haters begin posting their stupidity and ignorance against me because I know all you haters and the two-party system voters out there ...WILL because you can't think for yourselves instead of the tv doing it for you.
Dedicated sound card are not relevant these days because people are fine with shitty sound experience. Sorry guys, but it is true.
With a good pair of headphones or headset (costly), or speakers, mixed with a dedicated sound card, you will enjoy static and interference free experience, not to mention a rich lively sound, with amazing med range, and balanced. Which the great majority of motherboard onboard solution fails to deliver any of the above points.
To me, it is like an true 8-bit (per channel) IPS monitor. Why do I get it? Because I love rich, fairly color accurate with great reproduction to enhance my gaming experience and my general computer usage. To me there is no point in playing games at high settings, let alone any higher, if your colors are over saturated, or washed out. Might as well play them at medium-low settings. I am not a hardcore FPS player, for whom they probably don't care about sound quality, all they care about is basic voice chat with a good mic and hear the game. But if you play games for the art and experience instead, and not competitively, then to, it is all part of the experience.
However, HOWEVER. Doesn't mean that it is a dedicated sound card that you'll get amazing sound necessarily. They are dedicated sound card which wont' give you much over an onboard sound solution, and those are overpriced as the whole thing is probably 5$ at best to manufacture has little to no R&D, and then you have good ones.
BUT, dedicated sound card is not the only solution. You can get better sound for your money, potentially, by going with an external amp/dac device. The only up side from a dedicated sound card is that it doesn't take room on your desk.
Interesting topic. From the pictures, I think all the cables are UTP (CAT5/5e). Meaning you can most likely re purpose them for Ethernet. However, what worries me is the change from blue to grey. You might want to find the knot where the change is happening. They might have removed a pair of wires in the knot. Easiest way to figure out is to crimp both sides with an RJ45 and run a test with this. If all 8 LEDs turn on one after another you're good to go.
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