AntVenom

The PMP-500 still does quite well, even today for me. There's a video that JayzTwoCents made about how much pressure it takes to cause problems in a loop. Spoiler: It's a LOT. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xAMmQy8bdXk

Yup! Made a thread about it recently...well sort of. I did a full home network upgrade, and I made mention of it in that thread. Eh, I feel that might be a bit much for me lol. I mean, if there was a fitting crossover, sure, but I'm just a guy who spent way too much money and time on a silly project that thankfully still works.

One day I hope to be brought on again for successfully running a "whole room" water cooling rig for 5 years, in case they ever want to re-approach the idea.

Not were, but am. I still do it!

10/22/2020 Update: The RAID has slowed down again, in exactly the same way as before. I'm guessing this means my previous "fix" was never a fix, but a band-aid caused by how the drives got formatted after their stripe sizes were changed... or something. I have since learned that AMD RAID drives don't support TRIM, which might have something to do with the slow-down in the first place. At this point, I believe there is a systematic issue with AMD based raids, and I will be putting this RAID onto a dedicated NVMe RAID card from this point forward. I'm making this post purely as an informational post that might wind up in various search results down the line. I've spent the better part of 2-3 weeks of consistent time trying to fix this issue, and have now resolved it. So let's get into it. In November of 2017, I swapped my system over from running an Intel i7 3960x to an AMD Threadripper 1950x. I did this for a few reasons, and one of those was the capability to create a bootable NVMe RAID. The idea of having a bootable drive that pulled 3500MBps Reads, 2000MBps writes really appealed to me, since I wanted a stupidly fast drive to run my video editing software from. In this case, I know IO/s are more important than raw speed, and NVMe delivers on that too. However, some time after getting the RAID-1 up and running, I noticed something very odd. While I was getting 3500MBps reads, I was only getting about 200-400MBps writes. For a while, I chalked it up to the RAID controller used within my ASUS Zenith Extreme motherboard being bad or something, even though my other 2 RAID-1's could pull their rated write speeds. One of those raids being around 300MBps, and the other being around 500MBps (which is faster than what my NVMe was doing at the time). After a little bit of tinkering, I gave up on it, and just ran my system with this flaw. A screenshot taken days before I fixed the issue. Getting above 300MBps w/ CrystalDiskMark was rare. Fast forward a couple years. At random times between then and now, I had tried to fix the issue, but was limited because I didn't want to be re-formatting my main OS drive every couple of days. However, last week, I finally got tired of the issue after finishing a networking upgrade to my house. I wanted this last little annoyance taken care of. I tried everything I could think of, and everything I had read online. I tried running the drives within every configuration of ports this motherboard offered. Both in the DIMM.2 slot; one in the DIMM.2 slot and the other in the slot behind the heatsink on the bottom right of the motherboard. One in an ASUS Hyper M.2 riser and the other in the DIMM.2 slot or the motherboard's slot. The write speeds remained around 200-400MBps, usually in the 300's. I ran an IO/s test the other day, before fixing this problem, and that was around 70,000 or so, very well short of the 370,000 this SAMSUNG 970 Pro NVMe SSD is capable of. The day before fixing this issue, I also speed-tested the drives individually, not in a RAID environment, and I got a solid 3500/2000 on both drives. I noticed that whenever I would do a file transfer within Windows, it WOULD report the drive was doing 1200MBps or so, however, Task Manager would show that the data was actually being very slowly written at about 100-200MBps. I tried a whole manner of different stress tests. What clued me into this problem being fixable was the fact that even though these drives are in a motherboard RAID-1, where Samsung's Magician software does NOT have direct access to the drives to update the firmware (and I checked while diagnosing, they are on the latest firmware), that software was able to push 1,200MBps writes to the drive. I had also tried enabling and disabling both Read Ahead and Write-Back caches, but that didn't change anything either. I tried disabling them too. No difference. Sooooo okay. If ATTO, and CrystalDiskMark can't push beyond 400MBps to the drive, but Samsung's benchmark can, what gives?! I'm actually running 3 SSD based RAID-1's on my system. One for my OS (The NVMe one), one for my Programs / Games, and one to capture videos to for my day-to-day work (Since a LOT of data is written to it, I don't want to add unnecessary stress to my OS or Programs drive). The other day, at like 3am, while basically giving up and accepting that my NVMe drives were just going to run slowly, I did one last thing to the RAID when I rebuilt it for the last time. I set the stripe size of the NVMe RAID to 64KB, which matches the other 2 RAID's in my system. I had always ran a higher stripe size because I read SOMEWHERE that it helped with performance. While this may be true if it's the ONLY RAID on the controller, or if all RAID's have matching stripe sizes, this is what FIXED my problem. By setting the stripe size of my NVMe RAID-1 to match my other 2 RAID-1's, which in my case is 64KB, the write speeds of the NVMe RAID shot up from 200-400MBps all the way up to 1800+MBps, with Windows often reporting 2000MBps. Again, I made this thread JUST in case someone is experiencing a similar issue, googles for a solution, and stumbles across this. I obviously can't guarantee my fix will work for you, but if you're running multiple RAID's on a single controller with differing stripe sizes, and you're experiencing these sorts of speed issues, give this solution a try. Hope it works! And if you're curious, I am presently running the drives in an ASUS Hyper M.2 riser card so each drive has a proper PCIe 3 x4 lane. Some configuration of DIMM.2 + using the motherboards connector always caused one of the lanes to be x2. Plus, without a heat-sink, these drives thermal throttle QUITE fast. Fast enough to show up in the ATTO benchmark. A screenshot I just took. CrystalDiskMark never seems to be able to pull the full speed of the drive. Still, a LOT better than before. ATTO Disk Benchmark today w/ the drives in RAID-1, w/ matching stripe sizes to the other 2 RAID's I have. I increased the file size since that tended to provide more consistent results.

The issue with that is mixing metals. I believe that Linus used a steel reservoir before, which caused their corrosion issue. Every water-block and pipe would also have to be steel as well to avoid having issues. A full copper setup would be pretty bad-ass though, so long as they could find a good copper reservoir. Acrylic and plastic work just fine though for practical applications.

I doubt Linus would have abandoned it if his setup ran this smoothly. It always perplexed me that they ran clean for a month on the bucket of water during their first diagnosis phase, and then he just went back to the steel reservoir, causing the corrosion to happen all over again.

Basement Water Cooling Project Update + Additions Full Album w/ Full Specs List (The images in this post are way higher than in the forum thread. I embedded lower quality images into the thread so they wouldn't look huge in the post) https://imgur.com/a/6uiMx Original Thread: https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/391250-basement-water-cooling-project-no-more-remote-trigger-july82016/ So, about 5 years ago, I made a post about my "Basement Water Cooling Project", inspired by LTT's "Whole Room Water Cooling Project". The idea was to remove not only the heat of the PC from my office, but also to remove the noise. I do video & audio commentary work for a living, and I've always wanted my PC to be as silent as possible. Absolutely silent if necessary. I feel that me and Linus share the desire for our PC's to be DEAD silent. Well, with today's update, I've achieved that. Because my fan's don't spin unless my CPU gets above 30c or so, which is rarely does, my PC no longer has any moving parts in it. First Update Thread: https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/955374-3-years-of-basement-water-cooling-did-it-hold-up/ I no longer have any HDD's in my system. The exact specs are listed in the Imgur post above. But now, every drive in my system is SSD based. About 3 years later... which was 2 years ago now, I posted an update thread about the condition of the water cooling loop, showing that the color of the water was completely clear, but the tubing had stained blue a little bit from the PT-Nuke Biocide that I had used. There's no real update on that, as the condition has remained relatively unchanged, except the tubing is a LITTLE more stained than before. I flushed the loop yesterday, and the color of the water was...well... still completely clear. My only REAL concern was this sediment of sorts forming on the bottom of the reservoir. After cleaning out the reservoir with soap and water (using alcohol would destroy the acrylic), it remained. I didn't want to use a pipe cleaner to get it loose, because that would probably introduce sediment I couldn't reach into the loop itself. This stuff is stuck in place, so it won't cause an issue. My temperatures haven't changed in the 5 years that I've been running this loop, so it's a non-issue. At this point, I've flushed the loop twice. This past time, it didn't even feel necessary, since the water was SO clear. Linus, if you ever want to rig up Whole Room again, hit me up! As long as you don't mix metals (Brass + Copper seems to be fine. Again, I'm 5 years deep, without any issues), you'll be fine. A closer look at the tube staining. It's not bad, but this tubing used to be crystal clear like the reservoir. The tube feels as soft as it did on day 1, so I'm also not concerned at all. The sediment within the reservoir. I took my kitchen sink's sprayer head to it and it didn't dislodge. I'd rather not force it w/ a pipe cleaner and introduce any loose material into the loop. What's interesting is the sediment settled near where the reservoir feeds the pump, and not where the water comes into the reservoir from the radiator. How the tubing used to look in 2015, when the system was first powered on. Crystal clear. This is where the upgrades come into play though. Not w/ the water cooling itself, but with what sits next to it. I decided to do a full renovation on my networking setup, since I'm not getting out as much due to COVID-19. Before this upgrade, my modem & router were sitting in my office. My office is on the far side of my house, and at the time, I was using my router as my access point, which made the WiFi outside of my kitchen door side entrance, and into my garage quite unusable. Now, all 4 rooms in my house have in-wall ethernet, wired w/ CAT-6 cable, capable of delivering 10Gbe to any port in my house. Presently, only my office PC and my NAS take advantage of it, but I have that upgrade path in the future. The Modem, Router, Switch, and NAS model numbers are listed in the full Imgur album above. I cut and crimped every black CAT-6 cable in this house, and routed them all to this spot. I could have bought equipment to be installed in a server rack, but because the scope of this project was so small, spending another $50-100 dollars on a rack + whatever a patch panel would cost didn't feel needed. The cables are cut a bit too long in case the next owner of this house decides they want to do that. I have no plans on selling any time soon, but ya know, planning ahead. The whole setup is also protected w/ an APC Battery Backup of it's own, which will power everything for over an hour when the power is out. Fun fact, even if the power goes out, the internet generally does not. So even when power is out, my internet stays online the whole time, which allows me to shut my PC down (since it's also on a battery backup), and use my laptop or phone until those eventually die too. 9/10 power outages last for under an hour anyways, so it all works out! Another look at the cable management. It's not THE prettiest, but it's really very neat when you look closely at it. You can also see the PoE injector for my access point sitting here as well. A look at the bundle of cables as it runs up into the ceiling joists of my basement. From here, it's all run to the spots underneath each room, drilled, and mounted accordingly to provide an ethernet + coaxial wall jack to every room in the house. I did all of the work for this myself, since it's not overly difficult to begin with. I went a little bit OCD w/ sorting the wires behind my living room entertainment setup, but I wanted to be sure that ONLY the wiring that was attached to the wall had any slack in it at all. A better look at the coaxial + ethernet wall jack. The Living Room and the Office both have dual CAT-6 jacks. The Living room has a 1Gb connection to my switch, while the other port is used for the PoE access point. My office has 1 dedicated 10Gbe port for my PC, and the other connects to a switch that provides ethernet for everything else in my office that has an ethernet jack, which isn't much. I have my access point velcrowed to the back of my TV in my living room, which is central to my entire property, and provides good internet even all the way out to my garage. WiFi on the office end of the house is basically unaffected, so I'm happy with this setup for now.

Glad I bought one when the Floatplane video came out. I KNEW they'd go out of stock lol.

<Removed link> Edit: I WISH this article had a date on it, to know if it's current. Edit2: It wasn't. That occurred a decade ago. Thanks abcnews for NOT showing dates on articles lol. https://www.theverge.com/2018/10/16/17987280/youtube-down-outage

Like, if you're running multiple computers, but don't even have 2 feet of head pressure, one might be enough. Depends on how you run your tubing I suppose.

Just don't mix metals, and use the right amount of PT-Nuke for the volume of water you have, and you'll be good. Nickel and copper are fine, just keep aluminum out of ALL parts of the loop. (Coming from the guy who did basement water cooling w/ it still working) And when it comes to pumps, its MOSTLY all about head pressure. I use a pump meant for a computer water cooling setup, but it has 20 feet of head pressure, and it has no problem comfortably pushing about 6 feet of water vertically. It churns along day in and day out. I wouldn't use the pump inside of my computer, because its uncomfortably loud for that, but it's FAR quieter than something overkill like a Little Giant pump, which I used in the past. Little Giant pumps work, but are awful. Avoid them if you can. PURELY because they begin to audibly grind after the 2nd week, and never stop.

No. That just isn't a problem if you have the radiator capacity to deal with it. The water moves too fast. The CPU temps typically idle in the 25-28c range, not overclocked, and the GPU idles around the same as well. During the winter, when the basement can quite cold (but not TOO cold because of a heater in the basement), the GPU can idle as low as 18-20c, whereas the CPU stays around the same. My CPU temp under load is around 50c, and the GPU is somewhere just under that. I could overclock the system if I wanted to, but I just haven't felt like it, or needed to for my workflow. Edit: And no, in the 3 years I've had the system running, condensation has never been an issue. The temperature delta is never THAT high, and the pipes have insulation on them, which may or may not help.

So just over 3 years ago, in this topic, I decided to take a stab at doing my own iteration of the "Whole Room Water Cooling" project that LTT did just over 3 years ago. I have a small office that heated up fairly quickly with my rig expelling a bunch of heat into the room. My "Basement Water Cooling Project" actually didn't fix that problem. Yes, the office does heat up a little slower, but 3 monitors output a surprising amount of heat. But heat wasn't the sole reason I did this project. The main reason I did this project was to rid my office of fan noise, as I do video and audio work for a living, and I wanted my office to be as silent as possible. And in that regard, the project was a massive success. But three years have gone by, so I wanted to make a new topic about it, rather than bumping a thread that hasn't had a reply for over 2 years. So, there's really only 2 questions that I feel need answering. 1. Is the "Basement Water Cooling Project" still working? 2. Was it worth it? So, is the project still working? Short answer, yes. Long answer, yes, and it has required shockingly little maintenance. Since I properly completed the project about 2 1/2 years ago, I've only recycled the water once, which was in November of 2017, when I upgraded my rig. But even then, and now, the water inside of the system has remained almost completely clear, but there is a sort-of new exception. Judging by this image, which I took under an hour ago, things look great! At a glance, the water looks completely clear. But if we take a closer look at the outlet from the pump, as well as the inlet for the reservoir, something looks off. If you know anything about clear tubing, it shouldn't be too hard to see that the tubing shouldn't have a blue tint when there's a brown desk right underneath it. So something is going on inside of the system. But what? Well I think this image sheds a lot of light on what's going on. The acrylic reservoir shows no signs of tinting at all, leading me to believe that the biocide that I used (PT_Nuke), which can be seen in this image, has begun to stain the tubing used in the rest of the loop. So, am I going to do anything about this? Honestly, probably not. There's no hint of any corrosion of any kind, and the water is pretty much crystal clear. So, 3 years, one flushing of the system without ever replacing the tubing. But was it worth it? Well considering that I've lived in this house for over 3 years now, and don't plan on moving any time soon, I would say yes. However, I spent a LOT of unnecessary money on this project, primarily when I bought my original pump, which it, along with all of my other mistakes, can be found in the original thread. I'm a big ol' geek. I found this project to be a lot of fun, and I'd do it again. I doubt LinusTechTips will ever re-approach their project, but if they did, I can confidently say that as long as they use spring water, a biocide like PT_Nuke, and they don't mix in an aluminum reservoir or any other aluminum, and they stick to copper / nickel (and I think brass is fine too, as I think my fittings on the copper pipe are brass), then they'd have a system that would require a shockingly low amount of maintenance. Anywho, was randomly in the mood to post an update, so I thought I'd do so. Thanks! (The computer's lights go through different shades of fairly deep blue colors, but always show up purple in images, for whatever reason)

I like how this is a Floatplane Club exclusive

Google for it. As a consequence for pirating, I'm just gonna say you need to find the information yourself, as you found the pirated game.

Oh, well there's your problem. Buy the game once you know you like it, but to try it for now, you need to set your server to offline mode once you have it set up. But don't use the pirated version for long. And certainly don't use the same password if it's asking for one. Those versions can be legitimately dangerous.

Yeah, but that still shouldn't cause an invalid session error. It'd just fail to connect to the server, https://portforward.com/softwareguides/minecraft/portforward-minecraft.htm This is a good resource for Port Forwarding. I'd recommend portforward.com above all others for information on this.

Literally log out via the main client to the point where you must put in your email and password again. Don't just re-click on the already logged in option. Make sure you have to input your email again. That's how you fix an invalid login session. The issue isn't with the server.

The pump is just powerful enough to handle it on it's own. That pump has 20 feet of head pressure.

Even though it's a double post, I'm gonna give this one last reply. But this is actually the last one. I found a Molex Y-cable sitting around, and a molex to sata connector too for the fan speed controller. So now my fans are also on the automatic system. I have removed the remote control from upstairs, the downstairs power supply, and downstairs battery backup unit, as they're not needed anymore. Not sure if I explained this before, but I found a PCI molex connection bracket on amazon, and I am using that as a way of allowing me to disconnect the water cooling elements from the system. If I just fed a molex wire through the PCI bracket, it would be stuck there, and moving the PC would be a pain in the ass. I did order a new 6 foot cable as I botched removing the pins in order to feed it downstairs. They work, but one of the ground wires showed signs of being frayed. They're like 5 dollars anyways, so not a huge deal. Also ordered a new fan speed controller to replace the current one, as the current one sometimes fails to turn on the fans at ALL if they're not set to full power, which is really dumb. Well that's it. The project is done. One day, I may transfer the stuff from downstairs to my bedroom closet in case I ever plan on finishing the basement. It would be quiet enough in there to have the same effect. And typically, if I'm in my bedroom, my computer is off, so I won't have to listen to it. We'll see. That wouldn't be for quite a while anyways.

I honestly can't believe I'm updating this, but until the system breaks, this is it. I might update this ONE more time when the wiring inside the case is neater.I have removed the remote trigger for the pump. For a while, I wanted to find a wireless solution, but I decided to just give in. At the moment, the fans are still plugged into that, but they won't be soon. The pump now starts up with the computer. So woo! In the last picture, the power supply used, and the battery backup will be removed once I get a decently lengthy y splitter. The 6 foot molex extension doesn't reach as well as I had hoped, but at least it does. Below the rig pictures are temp pictures. temps are a little bit higher than they used to be, and I'm on Windows 7. The BIOS however, reads the same temps as usual, so I'm not sure what's going on there. ALL OF THESE TEMPS ARE WITH THE FANS OFF! The fans being on...just doesn't make much of a difference. I keep them on anyways, but still.

Oh baby. Took a few attempts. Got a higher WPM, but with errors. Could probably crack 110 if I really set my mind to it.

Hi! Just got back from a trip and saw I was pinged . Linus mentioned it during the "outside" WAN Show done during their studio meetup, and occurred at 1 hour and 3 minutes in.

Pretty much everything is documented in this forum thread. I've had the idea for a long time, I think pre-dating Whole Room. I hate computer noise, so the idea was to have a water cooling setup outside of the room. It was originally gonna be routed behind a stair-set, until I moved. I didn't REALLY get into it until I made this thread, and I had it working a week or so later. The biggest piece of advice I can give someone is, if you plan on using copper pipes use pipe tape / Teflon tape where needed, and use it properly. 3 wrappings, following the movement of the thread so it doesn't bunch up, and using tools to tighten the fittings. Otherwise, its pretty much a normal water cooling loop now, except w/ the components downstairs still.