MrTralala

Please read the main post before posting. That is exactly what I want to do. The only problem now is should I sell my gpu or can I wait a little longer on selling it without a noticeable drop in price.

Situation: Currently I have an i7-8700k and GTX 1080. I mostly been playing CS:GO, GTA V and Overwatch. I'm hoping when Cyberpunk 2077 comes out, I'll be able to play it at 1080p 144hz RTX ON. There are also a few other games I'd like to play/revisit in the future like Dying Light 2, The Division 2, Final Fantasy XV, etc. With that said, Idea: I'm thinking of selling my gpu and maybe even one of my monitors (it's using DVI Dual link and I heard that newer gpus don't really support that anymore?) now before the price drop hits. During this gruesome few months of waiting for Nvidia/AMD's new line of gpus to drop, I'll just make do with the integrated gpu. Thoughts?

Thanks everyone for their input. In the end, I went with the Ticwatch E2 because it had a huge discount on 11/11 and it was in my local online store. Looking forward to trying out my first Smart Watch!

Sorry for the late reply (haven't been feeling well). Surprisingly it is more expensive than the Active, which is slightly younger. Hmmm but putting aside the price, it seems to be similar in terms of feature with the Active, aside from the rotating bezel and larger battery. Personally though, I'd still choose the Active if that's the case just because I like the design of it more haha, the price also being an added bonus. Thanks for the input though!

I did consider the Samsung Galaxy Active 2 but sadly it is out of my budget :(. As for the Active, it is one of the alternatives if I don't go for the Ticwatch E (which I am highly likely to go for). I don't know, I find it a little hard to drop 200+ SGD upfront for a watch haha. On a side question, do you know if Amazon has winter sale? I thought I might wait it out and maybe get the Active 2 if it does have a discount.

Howdy all. After many years of using my Casio digital watch, it finally broke down. So I'm in the market for a new Smart Watch that will hopefully last at least half as long as that watch (I think I had that watch since 2012?). Tentatively I'll go with the Ticwatch E, but I'd like to hear more opinion about it first or any other recommendation within a 200 USD budget. Side note, I only really like Smart Watches that retains that circular shape, so something like the Xiaomi Amazfit is not really part of my taste. Also, for those who had bought the Ticwatch E on Amazon and had it shipped to your country, did you have any issues claiming warranty/RMA?

Man Trident RAM looks sick as hell but sadly it's very expensive in Singapore. As for Corsair, I only found something similar to it (https://www.lazada.sg/products/corsair-vengeance-led-16gb-2-x-8gb-ddr4-3200mhz-c16-dimm-desktop-memory-kit-red-led-i165824886-s213016004.html?spm=a2o42.searchlist.list.3.352c773074yAve&search=1). Will it suffice?

Hmmmmm....it's hard to say because I'm buying from a local online store called Lazada and their prices and variety differ from Amazon's. But I guess...180 USD?

Since I'm gonna have to buy new RAM, I was thinking about the Kingston HyperX Fury 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 2666MHz. Anyone has any thoughts on this? EDIT: I just realised that the Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 2666MHz also cost the same as the HyperX's one. Is there any difference?

Ok so I did it and yup, performance was slightly better. To prove that it wasn't placebo effect, I ran CS:GO and went to the parts where my fps would just dip below 144 fps but it never did, though it came very close to. I was sitting around 200-350 fps, though anything beyond 300 fps was at a few places only. In case anyone is wondering, I was playing on Mirage and Cache both in private lobby and deathmatch. I also ran Fortnite PVE which was a mixed bag because this game wasn't always the most consistent game in terms of fps and is coincidentally undergoing performance updates atm. This makes it hard to tell so I can't say much. I guess the conclusion is that my ram is likely the bottleneck. Time to throw more money. Thanks for the help btw :).

Hm...is there a way to test this for sure? I am currently on a tight budget and don't wanna end up in a scenario where I buy the RAM and realise it wasn't the problem.

That's completely besides the point. I am just using CS:GO as the benchmark. If I could, I would have used Fortnite PVE but not many people do benchmarks for it which is the problem. And besides, I am not hitting 300+ fps consistently, there are times where I just dip below 144fps as well.

So I just recently built my rig containing an i7-8700k (OC to 4.7 Ghz) and a Zotac GTX 1080. The CPU cooler I am using is the Cryorig H5 Universal and temperature all seems fine. However, I am a little disappointed that I can't run CS:GO consistently at 300+ fps at high settings at 1080p. I have 2 1080p 144hz monitors, one being 24 inches the other 24.5 inches. I run it on my 24 inch monitor (don't ask me why). I have reinstalled Windows 10, tried running 1 monitor only, turned on High Performance mode in Control Panel, ran userbenchmark (http://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/10711434) which indicates it's fine, and had a cinebench score of 1452 cb. In the background I have Avast Antivirus, Backup and Sync, and Dropbox running, which I suspect might also be the culpurit(s) of hindering performance. For Google Chrome I have AdBlock and uBlock Origin and all the junk extensions that came with Backup and Sync. If you see the userbenchmark though, my worst bench is my RAM which is a single DDR4 1x16 GB stick from Hynix running at 2133 Mhz. Before anyone thinks that I actually bought this RAM, no, I did not. It came from a prebuilt which I took and used to save cost. Now however, I am starting to think it might actually be the one resulting in the lower fps. Not only CS:GO, but Fortnite PVE (not BR) seems to run very bad (though it could be the game) as I get around 60-120fps on on all high settings and only epic view distance. I could name a few other games that I tested, but you catch my drift. Could my RAM be preventing me from let's say, getting that extra 50+ fps? According to this reddit post, one of them reported that he/she "got like 50fps by getting another 8gb of 2133hz".

Hmm...not really sure what you mean by format boot drive. I assume you mean this? Just to clarify, this link is what you mean by clean install right?

I see. With regards to the second method, is it the same as the Windows 10's fresh start?

Ahhh I see. Yeah I want to clear every file and driver that might conflict with new hardware which is why I wanted to reset Windows 10. Hm...you mentioned clean install, which sounds better. Do you have a link that I can follow to do so?

To be honest, you didn't really answer my one and only question which was: When resetting your Pre-Built PC, does it come with graphics drivers or not? Yes, I know your PC can run without graphics drivers. My main concern however is whether actual people install the graphics drivers on your Pre-Built PC for you or is the system made by the manufacturers in such a way where its factory state has graphics drivers (whether outdated or not). EDIT: This website says all the manufacturer installed software and drivers that came with the PC will be reinstalled.

I just wanna start my PC from a clean slate with new hardware. Besides, my hard drive storage space has been piling up, it would be too time consuming to uninstall every other software/game that I don't need anymore.

Wait first you said this: Then u said: So does resetting your PC come with drivers as far as graphics drivers are concerned? I'm more worried for this and anything other driver that might cause BSOD (say the wireless adapter driver). Sorry I tend to be a worrywart, so I worry about things before they even happen.

So I've pretty much upgraded my original Pre-Built (Asus G11CB) with a new GPU, PSU, Motherboard and CPU. I have also replaced the 128 GB SSD (which is the Windows drive) with a 500 GB Samsung 860 EVO as my new main Windows drive. I used EaseUS to do the cloning and basically set it up as my main boot drive. The only worry I have now though is that if I reset my PC, will I get BSOD due to the graphics driver? From what I've heard, Pre-Builts come with the graphics driver and all pre-installed. Is it true?

*sad music plays* Oh ya that reminds me; since I am going to overclock it, will the Cooler Master Hyper 212 LED do fine or should I go with the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO?

Originally, I actually wanted to go for an i7-6700k, but then if I wanted to overclock it then I'm gonna need a new motherboard. What's more is that I can't upgrade it to an 8th gen in the future. I also went to check the prices of an i7-6700k which turns out to be the same if not more expensive than an i7-8700k. Then I thought, "maybe an i7-7700k with a Z170 motherboard then" but then checking the price differences it's miniscule enough for me to just go for the highest end. Also not worth the hassle of having to upgrade the motherboard's BIOS to allow Kaby Lake processors. Also, the main reason why I want to upgrade my current CPU is cause I am trying to push for 1080p 144hz but I am being bottlenecked by my current CPU in a lot of CPU-intensive games I play. Yea Lazada mostly sucks, but it makes it 'safe' to shop there because of warranty. Gotta say though, their end of year sale is one of their best selling point, cause everything is so much cheaper. Then again, I never did check Amazon during end of year sales, so I might be wrong after all lol.

I see, thanks for the suggestion. After much consideration regarding budget and further upgradability, I think I'm gonna forego my current cpu for an i7 8700k thus I'm gonna need an 8th gen motherboard with said requirements. Ironically enough, Amazon prices still beat Lazada's even with shipping included so bomb away with any ASUS motherboard!

Update: So I did some more research and realised that if I wanted to upgrade my CPU to an 8th gen processor in the future, I'm gonna need a new motherboard all together. With that said, should I upgrade my motherboard with an i7-8700k or stick with a 6th gen motherboard with my current CPU?

Nah I'm not gonna upgrade my CPU to a i7-6700k, prolly an i7-8700k, but that is far from now. Oh yeesuz that motherboard is 699 SGD, way over my budget, maybe something lower? EDIT: Just checked, the Z170 is all out of stock in Lazada, even a $1,691 one...