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About john01dav

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  1. Usually antivirus is pretty good, but it isn't perfect. If I were you, I would do this: - Get a live Linux USB stick (these are pretty easy to make -- all you need is a USB stick that you can overwrite. When one boots to it, it runs Linux off the USB stick.). - Temporarily remove *all* storage from a computer (eg. all hard drives, ssds, etc.). - Boot the computer into Linux using the live usb stick. - Attach the external disk - Delete the files - Run clamtk (a Linux virus scanner), optional - Shut down Linux and reformat the live USB - Run a Windows virus scanner on the external drive That should get rid of 99.99% of viruses as it usually isn't worth the virus-maker's effort to write the code to get around that, but it is theoretically possible. The reason to use Linux is that there are far fewer viruses for Linux, and you're almost certainly on Windows so you probably don't have one that is able to do anything under Linux. For a bit of extra security, you can copy the important files (copy as few as possible) to a different drive using Linux. EDIT: Regarding homeap5's comment about autorun. If you decide to look at the drive in Windows, definitely disable autorun, but be aware that it isn't a perfect solution. There are many ways that a program can start running, eg. if it infected a word document without you realizing and added macros.
  2. With those cards, however, you need antennas. Is there somewhere that I can get the antennas as shown in the thing that I linked. I've been searching for days to find one, but I can't. This is probably because I don't know the correct search terms.
  3. Hello, I want to add Wifi support to my desktop computer with the Gigabyte Z390 M Gaming motherboard and an i9-9900k. I prefer to use an Intel Wifi device (as opposed to Asus, for example) as they are the only company that I trust to have reliable Linux drivers for years to come. I have been burned with this issue many times, where I bought a product for my computer and then was stuck without drivers only a year or two later as the Linux kernel updates but the hardware vendor refuses to either provide the driver's source code to the Linux kernel maintainers to have them update it, or to update it themself. Intel's drivers are part of the Linux kernel, so they are virtually guaranteed to stay updated. Unfortunately, they don't seem to manufacture PCIe cards. After much research, and talking with Intel, it seems like this product is best as it has an external antenna and associated PCIe mount for that antenna, even though the card itself is M.2. Intel specifically recommended this product for desktop computers. I am concerned about whether or not this device is compatible with my computer, however. In this PDF, which was sent to me by Intel, it is said that the aforementioned M.2 Wifi device requires an M.2 port of size 2230 and key E. My motherboard, however, is key M and does not list size, according to the blue-highlighted area in the following image. Yet, the motherboard also says that it supports Intel CNVi, which is the protocol used for Intel's M.2 Wifi cards. This makes it plausible that the blue area only talks about M.2 SSDs, and that the aforementioned M.2 device is compatible. Additionally, as part of the circuitry for Wifi is included on the CPU (this is what CNVi refers to), I am concerned that this device won't be compatible with my CPU as there is no detailed information that I can find anywhere regarding which CPUs it is compatible with, exactly. My concern is greater because this particular product is fairly old and my CPU is fairly new. The following is an excerpt from the manual and the highlighting is mine:
  4. Hello, I currently have a desktop computer with the Gigabyte Z390 M GAMING Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard. Visually, it seems to have 2 M.2 slots. I want to add dual band 5Ghz and 2.4Ghz wifi AC functionality to this computer via an Intel wifi device. When I look on Pcpartpicker (with a filter for Intel devices) or Intel's website for these devices, the interface seems to be mini PCIe or half mini PCIe, for anything modern. As I understand it, this is just another name for M.2, so it should work just fine. Yet, when I add my current parts list to Pcpartpicker, all of these Intel devices disappear, and a few ancient plain PCIe ones remain, suggesting that they are not actually compatible with my computer. What is the cause of this issue? Additionally, I heard about adapters to allow a mini PCI device to work in a regular PCIe slot. Do I need one of these? If so, where can I find one? The primary reason that I want Intel's wifi products is because they, as a company, have excellent foss drivers for Linux. Thank you
  5. Hello, I would like to add wifi support to my desktop computer running Linux via either USB3 or PCIe, but ideally the latter as I need to be able to make the best of a fairly weak signal. When I went to look for PCIe wifi cards, however, I found that all of them are made in China. As there is mounting evidence that they are using their position as a major electronics manufacturer to spy on people all over the world, this is not an acceptable trade off for my personal wifi card (link, also note the Huawai controversy). As such, I ask, how can I get a wifi card that both officially supports Linux with FOSS drivers (again, spyware is bad) and that I can be reasonably sure China didn't get its hands on? I know that probably half the components in my computer, if not more, were made in China. For many things, however, this does not matter (ie. the PSU), and for others it matters less as those parts won't have such a perfect way to get data out. Thank you
  6. Testing with that may not work. Be aware that older computers didn't use PCIe for the GPUs. As such, if you get it in and it doesn't work that doesn't prove that the card is bad. Getting it in and seeing that it works, however, does prove that the card is good. Also, don't run any graphically intense work loads while the card is in the other system as that could over load the power supply (I would be weary before putting it in at all).
  7. In that case you'll probably want to get an SSD as Windows 7 and later is basically unusable because it for some reason wants to thrash the disk instead of doing what it is supposed to.
  8. Do you have any other desktops lying around? If so, you may be able to put your new GPU in them and/or take their GPU out and put it in your new build. If you don't see a discrete GPU in another desktop and plug into the motherboard video output on that desktop, then you can put your new GPU in a PCIe slot there and attempt to get a video output from that computer.
  9. I have no idea if it will run Windows 10¹, but it will almost certainly run Debian XFCE (a Linux distribution). I doubt that you'll be able to game on that, so it sounds like you want to revive an old computer for basic tasks (ie. office-type work, watching videos). For this, Debian will work very well. (It will also work well for more advanced things like programming and, if you have a more powerful computer, anything that Windows can do (except in some cases compatibility with specific games is problematic).) ¹: Windows 10 has terrible disk thrashing, however if you use a computer frequently it tends to get slightly better. It may technicaly run, however. You really need an SSD to properly run Windows 7 or later though. Debian XFCE, however, works just fine on a mechanical drive.
  10. Do you have another GPU to try? One really plausible explanation is that your GPU is dead on arrival. In practice, that happens at least somewhat frequently with any computer component and you can almost always get it exchanged for a replacement.
  11. How hot does the phone feel if you push the CPU? I am thinking of something along the lines of a video being decoded in Javascript in a web browser. That is what caused my previous phone to overheat, although it never had any notices. The > 100°C measurement is from an infared thermometer.
  12. I recently got an LG V20 after my LG G5 fell apart because Amazon sold me a used one when I paid for a new one (they fully refunded the price of the LG G5). With my LG G5, I had it in an Ottorbox case because I wanted to ensure that drops -- even on hard surfaces from a high distance (as such things can't be entirely prevented if a phone is to be used)-- would be a non-issue. Unfortunately, however, this led to significant over-heating as the phone couldn't dissipate any heat. I measured that the screen got up to > 100°C under slightly heavier than normal, but still reasonable, usage. It seems reasonable that this caused one of the many issues that this phone had when the battery expanded and got stuck inside, as batteries do not work well under such temperatures. Even if the battery was already bad, however, such temperatures are undesirable. As such, I ask: how can I fully protect my LG V20 from drops, shocks, bumps, etc. (with a warranty where the case manufacturer will repair or replace my phone if it breaks while their case and/or screen protector is on it), without causing over heating issues? The budget is to go as low as possible without sacrificing shock and thermal safety, along with a warranty as money is fairly tight atm but I also need a working phone that I don't need to coddle.
  13. The warranty is unfortunately long expired, and there is no way to open it up. It looks like a single injection molded piece of plastic as there are no screws or visible seams.
  14. I have a dual monitor setup on my computer, and one of the monitors is having significant issues. Specifically, if I bump the table (as happens fairly frequently as the room is somewhat small -- sometimes minor shaking from typing is enough), the monitor turns off for a few seconds and then turns back on. It does not show its logo when this takes place as it usually does when turning on, nor does the power light turn off. There is also a slight buzzing sound from the lower-right of the monitor (near the power light and buttons, but not near the inputs) while it is turned off. Occasionally, when it turns off, it stays off until I switch the HDMI cable to the other HDMI input at which point the issue temporarily subsides and then grows in frequency until it stays off until another HDMI switch. While the HDMI switching is a minor annoyance, I am worried that this is a symptom that suggests that the monitor will fully break soon, and become useless. I'd really rater not drop US$150 on a new one, as that isn't something that I can afford right now. Does anyone know what is happening here or how I can fix it? Other information: - 27" (to help differentiate the model if needed) - 1920x1080 60hz - It has a VGA, DVI, and two HDMI inputs - It has an audio output for the audio coming in over HDMI. - The colors are slightly off, but this is only noticeable when next to my nicer monitor that I also use on this computer. - The model of the monitor is a Viewsonic VX2753mh-LED.
  15. > I mean this would have to be for a whole new build, I'm chucking this one as it's damaged like the last. I woulden't declare it to be damaged until you know exactly what happened. The fix could be simple.