Cooly568

Floatplane Pilot
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About Cooly568

  • Title
    Member

System

  • CPU
    Intel i7 4790K
  • Motherboard
    ASU Smaximus VI Impact
  • RAM
    Corsair Vengeance LP 16GB Blue
  • GPU
    ASUS STRIX 970 (painted white with blue backplate)
  • Case
    Rosewill Neutron
  • Storage
    256GB Kingston SSD - 2x Seagate 1TB RAID 1
  • PSU
    EVGA SuperNova NEX 750 Gold
  • Display(s)
    AOC Q2963PM
  • Cooling
    Noctua D15
  • Keyboard
    Razer Deathstalker
  • Mouse
    Logitech G502 Proteus Core Tunable Gaming Mouse
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Home

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Biography
    An idiot.

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Recent Profile Visitors

484 profile views
  1. Had that a long time ago with my 850 Evo mSata, was reporting like, 2.5 Gigabytes per second, but that's obviously wrong, it was down to a setting I had in the software.
  2. Back when the 1080 TI dropped a few months ago, the 1070 and 1080 saw MSRP drops. And for a while, the 1070 was seeming to fall in line. This is the only picture I can find of an older pricing on Newegg, this is back from October 2016, starting to edge into 390$ territory. Running into April of this year, they were dropping down below 370$ in some places, but all of a sudden, as of this past month... There is not a single card on the entire website under 400$. Same for eBay, the price of 980 TI's jumped from 300$ to 335$ at the lowest, averaging 350$. Why is this? Does this have to do with the Cryptocurrency craze running amidst?
  3. I love how NotebookCheck put it. Intel is Salty: i9 Edition.
  4. Found it, should I use the part number on this box over the one in the drivers if they are different?
  5. I painted it, and, I do have the box here, where would it be on the box?
  6. So, I just got a letter for my 970 Class Action claim, and it says my claim was missing information required for the claim, they ask I provide my retailer purchased from, and the manufacturer of the unit, something I did at first, and I did again on the return form. However, they ask for Serial Number / Part Number / Device ID Number. And I promised a catch, that catch being... Yeah, my card is painted. Right over the stickers on the back too. There are these numbers on the SLI fingers, and the PCI-E slot has a simple label reading "SF-15." So, do, I have enough numbers to complete this return form? I think I can get part number and device id from the drivers, but what about Serial Number, do I need that?
  7. I'm on the XPS 13 9350, fantastic machine. Thin, light, the bezels are amazing, and the battery is outstanding. God it sounds like Dell paid me to say that. I used USB-C to HDMI on this thing for a while as well, it runs very well. Except for that one time I plugged it up to a 4K TV and it nothing came out, probably something in the circuit is limited to HDMI 1.4 or maybe even lower. Unless of course your talking about the XPS 13 9365 instead of the XPS 13 9360. You probably are. Darn. Notebookcheck has great reviews on the XPS 13 9365 and the UX360UA. They had some issues with the hinges on the UX360UA too. But between the two, it's good to remember that the UX360UA runs a ULV chip, with the 9365 running a Y chip, a lower power chip that takes about a 30% performance hit. Battery life seems to be two hours better on the 9365, honestly if it was me I'd go with the 9365 since my experience with the 9350 has been so good, but look into it some more. The build quality make it look and feel more premium than the UX360UA, for about the same cost.
  8. Hiya, I have a question about a specific recurring payment I recieved on my credit card regarding Floatplane Club, but obviously I don't want to talk about it here in the open, who would I contact regarding this?
  9. If I remember right, the "Prefer Maximum Performance" setting in the nVidia control panel really plays a lot into the performance on battery.
  10. Basically that, laptop's are far more strict with their power usage, as, I mean, it's a laptop, it has to be. Sometimes on ridiculously powerful laptops, the battery just won't push out enough juice, but this doesn't seem like one of those occurrences.
  11. Hopefully this is the right subthread. Hiya, so I've been into VR for quite a while, but my use case has been a bit different. I use my phone with a VR headset to watch television shows and view pictures, meaning I don't use it for any intensive like gaming. However, my phone and headset combo aren't cutting it. I switched to a MI Max a while back, a 6.44 inch phone, with a 1080p screen. Getting a PPI of 342. Not, really enough for VR. Not to mention I can only find one VR headset on Amazon that even fits this phone, and even then, it barely fits and cuts off the top of the screen. So I'm looking for something a bit better, while at the same time being more cost effective, and I know my options are limited, Vive, Rift, Daydream, and that's it. Gear is out unless I can find a cheap used phone, along with Daydream, and the wired solutions are just that, wired. What else is on the market? Would it be cost effective to buy a third party phone VR headset and a cheap phone with a great screen?
  12. I've actually switched cables before, although I'll switch back and see if it performs different. Both cables I can use and have used are known good and are High Speed cables. Thought the only standards for cables were Normal and High Speed. The GPU is a GTX 960, and the TV is a Vizio D58u-3. Both support HDMI 2.0. I just have it set to 3840 x 2160 at 60 hertz, it just automatically sets itself to 59 or 30, despite 60 still being a valid option.
  13. Hiya, so I've been having an issue ever since I moved over to an HDMI 2.0 only setup. Whenever I would go into a game that forced the system to full screen, and quit the game, Windows would set the display mode to either 30 hertz or 59 hertz, both which essentially look like 30 hertz on my TV that I have it plugged into. 1080P never has this issue, but I always run the system at 4K, except for some games where I drop the resolution, and if I quit the game, Windows does it's defaulting down business. It can be fixed easily if I go into advanced display properties in Windows and set it to 30 hertz, and then 60 hertz, which is odd, since it defaults to 59 hertz, but that ends up looking like 30. Changing it to 60 when it's at 59 does nothing, I have to go from 59 to 30 to 60. Also, the nVidia control panel disappeared for no reason, no driver updates have happened since it showed up before. Before it disappeared, I set nVidia control panel to 60 hertz, but it still does this.
  14. I'll, tell you what it comes down to. I was being dumb. The TV was in RGB mode instead of YCBCR mode. Although, when I unplugged and replugged the cable, the two modes looked different, however when I restarted the system and switched between the two modes, nothing changed, odd. Edit 1: Got it working great. Setting limited range with YCBCR mode on the TV makes it look not oversaturated with like Full on RGB, but still with dark blacks. Thanks for the help!
  15. It's a Vizio D58u-D3. The weird thing is that it looks far better on Full mode, when running off of displayport, I was able to choose between the two, and full looked far better to my eyes, so it must of been working.