Timmyfox

These are very useful indeed, but absolutely no replacement for proper tip care and maintenance. As a word of warning, these are intended as a last resort for heavily damaged/oxidized tips and should NOT be used regularly to clean your tips as this can harm the existing factory tipping due to how these products quite invasively try to break down the outer layers to reapply new tipping material. If used too often, tip tinners can actually reduce the longevity of your tips rather than prolonging it. I'd use it only to “revive” a worn out tip, never to clean a healthy one. The best way to care for your soldering tips and maximize their longevity is to use brass wool as your primary in-use cleaner and the occasional sponge when you need a little heavier cleaning. Always apply a fresh bit of solder to the tip after cleaning so that it never stays “dry” for too long and be to clean and add a layer of solder at the end of each session as well before turning the iron off. Also, never forget: a bit of good flux goes a LONG way when soldering, you want quality solder wire with at least decent flux in it and you don't want to turn up the heat more than is needed. 250–300°C is typically plenty enough for leaded and 300–350°C for lead free, you really shouldn't need to go much higher than that under most circumstances. As an electrical engineering major, I've never once needed to go to 400°C, or even close to it, even with lead-free solder. Tougher joints with a lot of surface area (like ground planes) and lower-power irons might of course need a little more heat than your typical one to compensate for the added thermal mass/lack of thermal energy, but generally the lower the temp you can get away with still achieving a good joint, the happier your tips will be. Also another cleaning tip to consider if your tips are starting to get a bit oxidized: grab some solder with good flux in it and melt enough onto your tip to create a blob. Then rotate the iron around a bit and let gravity do its thing so that the blob moves around the whole tip and when you're done just flick the excess solder away into an appropriate waste container and clean the tip as per normal with brass wool (preferred) or a sponge. Then just apply a fresh layer of solder as always to the tip and you're ready to keep working. EDIT: Also one last note: be very cautious with products made for plumbing! Electronics soldering and plumbing soldering are two very different things and so are the chemicals used. Products made for plumbers are often a lot more aggressive and can severely harm your soldering iron! The Oatey in the image there is a petrolatum-based such meant for plumbing use and is a lot more corrosive than products like that Plato tinner (also evidenced by it being the only one of the two with the “corrosive” warning label). This will almost certainly damage your tip quite severely if used with any regularity.

Since you're in Europe, there shouldn't be any major concerns about daisy chaining them. So long you don't plug in enough stuff that you overload the circuit you're fine. Most breakers are set to trip around 10 A, which is also what you'll find many power strips are minimally rated at for continuous current. 16 A circuits are also somewhat common (in fact, iirc most European circuits are designed for 16 A but only rated for 10 A to allow a good safety margin, but so long you don't exceed that recommended max of 10 A you're fine. The breaker also doesn't care how many power strips you're daisy chaining, so that shouldn't be a concern so long they all adhere to local electrical regulations. As others have said, it's more a concern in the US where you more easily can find power strips that don't match the ratings of the socket and therefore could overheat before the breaker trips—this isn't nearly as much a concern in Europe because regulations are tighter on that and also require greater safety margins on the ratings to avoid issues when you're “just at the limit”.

That seems really high. The toll rate for bags (including backpacks) appears to be 3.7% in Sweden which puts it around $11. Here's the estimated breakdown from the calculator on Tullverket's (Swedish Customs Agency) website, not including the administration fee: Actually this is false. Every courier charges some sort of fee like this, the reasoning has changed slightly over time but typically the argument is that the fee covers them filing all the paperwork in your place to get it through customs faster, it's not at all anything new and predates wish.com by many many years. It's not even just Sweden, but many countries in Europe you'll get similar fees as well on import packages. Honestly, unless it's changed in recent years, Postnord's fee is lower than that of couriers like DHL and UPS and before people was mass-ordering from China it used to be higher. What happened was that they changed the way the fee was applied, introducing a lower fee for low-cost packages (valued below iirc 1300 or 1400 SEK at the time—the limit should be higher now). Packages valued higher than that still get the higher fee, the backpack will but not the screwdriver. It's just that no one really talked about the admin fee before the whole wish craze started and then as they updated their handling procedure with an updated fee structure all the news started reporting on it as if the fee was a new thing. Afaik it's even worse for Canadians getting stuff imported from the US as they have to be very careful because there can sometimes be some really high fees to get packages across the border depending on the courier. Although that might be outdated information as it's been several years since I heard about it (any Canadians feel free to correct me if I'm wrong!)

On the store page for the bit sets for the screwdriver, there is a typo where the graphic says "Phillips" (correct spelling) but the style name is listed as "Philips" (incorrect spelling). The single-L spelling also occurs at one point in the product description.

Definitely big agree on this. As a non-Canadian the Robertson bits in the standard set are pretty much useless to me, would've definitely preferred a PZ1 and PZ2 be included in place of the SQ-bits.

Like I said I'm not 100% on it as I don't know too much myself. Just know that during one of the event, one of the key people working on their 5G antennas was telling something about how the end-user devices are used to create a network of small receiver antennas to increase the coverage for everyone in densely populated areas rather than to have each device be its own isolated unit communicating exclusively with the closest base station. Not sure if that's exclusive to the mmW band but it was touted as one of the solutions for the poor object penetration ability of such high-frequency signals.

If I'm not mistaken, this should get better with time as adoption increases. See, to my understanding, the mmW 5G band is not so much designed to be very ideal like this, with only a single (or a select few) devices actually directly connected to a hotspot, but rather intends to use MU-MIMO technology and have each 5G device within proximity create a type of mesh network with each other to increase the range and signal strength. Each compatible device will essentially function as its own 5G antenna and later on, in a couple years when adoption is much wider, there should be enough 5G devices out and about in most crowded areas to better distribute the signals instead of relying exclusively on the limited number of hotspots (and having direct line of sight to them). Of course, I don't know much about this myself so I might be completely wrong here but that's at least how I understood it during a conference thingy I attended last year at Ericsson's office here in Linköping, Sweden.

To add to the ESD issue around 2:20 that's already been brought up : In addition to what @tk321 said and @quakeguy81 's response, it being a safety hazard is not the only concern. Sure enough it is definitely a hazard, especially if you have no idea why. Also yes, sticking metal objects into a socket can be done perfectly safely IF AND ONLY IF you know precisely what you're doing and understand the science behind electrical potential and electrical resistance—although at that point you should probably be smart enough to understand that even then it's a terrible idea and that you shouldn't do it. Even if you're "just" plugging it into ground and not something that's live, this means that YOU are the path to ground and that touching ANYTHING electrically charged has the chance of shocking you and possibly running lethal currents through your body. But yes, ESD safety isn't, contrary to what some may believe as simple as "just grounding yourself" because ESD works both ways. If the components you're working with are charged in any way (which they very well can be—capacitors and batteries are very good at retaining charges, for example) then you could easily inflict reverse ESD because suddenly YOU are the path to ground and instead of you shocking the component, it shocks you (which can be just as harmful to the component!) So what's the proper way? Simple, don't just ground yourself against an outlet or random metal object—but rather against the actual component itself! Grounding yourself against something other than the component itself only works if the component (and preferably the things around you as well) are ALSO grounded to the same point. Possibly the easiest way to achieve this is to simply put the components down on the side panel (avoid any windows, use the side without a window if possible!) and then attach the ESD stap to that same side panel.

The titles still say 2018! And Twitch title yet again you forgot to update from last week ...

So uh ... you guys ever gonna actually update that Twitch title? @LinusTech Here's from today's WAN show; Check the date of the screenshot for reference Aaaand here's the proper title from the Youtube stream:

Tbh, I'd called this a tie. Looking at the numbers and formula used, Luke won by literally $1.38. Alternatively, Linus would've needed less than 2 FPS more in Fortnite (or Luke could've gotten less than 1 FPS lower). This is well within the fairly unavoidable variation in between individual runs, especially for a game that can get a bunch of variance between individual runs.

Whilst this is cool, at $1499 that is way too expensive; My triple 24" 16:10's (Dell U2415) combined were less than this. To be fair, this Samsung does offer 144Hz (vs 60) and is curved, but it's still a double-wide 1080p (16:9) that is more expensive than a triple 1200p (16:10) setup. Hmm .. doing the math it would seem it's equivalent to around two 27-28" monitors at 16:9 (compared to 3x 24" for the setup I'm using) which I guess makes the price tag slightly more fair, though at that size (and price) I'd very much expect it be 1440p rather than 1080p still. Though regardless, would still prefer a triple-wide monitor if they hope to sell me something like this.

Currently using the good ol' HD7970, so naturally any newer card would be a decent upgrade!

Well, overall I would say I liked them about the same but in different ways. Mainly I'm looking for reasons and suggestions why one might want to pick one over the other beyond what I've already concluded in terms of audio and comfort. I might add that the HE-560 is a bit cheaper new but the dealer also had a pair of HD800 which had been previously been used as a demo unit which would be my cheapest option by a slight margin.