Toby

assuming you're on FF29+, click the 3 lines -> ? -> Restart with addons disabled and see if it helps (it's more thorough than manually disabling them). If that doesn't work, try creating a new profile by closing FF then pressing Win+R -> firefox.exe -p -> New profile. If that doesn't work, have you tried reinstalling?

To get the most visited page, try typing about:newtab into the address bar, and you can set it as the default page to open on startup: Options -> General -> Show my home page (I had thought you could set specific tabs but perhaps you need an addon).

I can still get to the most visited page by opening up a new new tab, I just don't want to be greeted by a blank white screen when I first open the window. Thinking about it, default functionality should be to show me my home page (which is what it's set to in the options menu), but again, it doesn't seem to get that far (clicking the home page button works fine).

Edit:

Well maybe fastdial is trying something but can't, but still blocks the default.

 

I noticed firefox auto updating feature is **** and updates like once every week or so. When stuff stops working, I always check the add-on page, and usually there is an update which firefox hasn't found by itself yet!

Like I say, it works with or without fastdial. These problems persist through "restart with addons disabled". About to try new profile/reinstall.

I don't have the most visited links either because I use a setting in tabmixplus for that. Do you have that? Sorry don't have a clue besides that.

No. I typically use fastdial, but that doesn't come up in a new window either. I imagine that's just because the add-on needs to be updated or what have you, but I figure the default "blank tab" functionality should be working when you open a new window

So while this thread's here, I can't even get core functionality to work. I open my browser and just get a blank tab - no "most visited" links. The main problem though is that "customize" in the menu just opens up a blank "about:customizing" page, even when all add-ons are disabled.

My rule of thumb is: Put the DPI as low as possible that I'm comfortable with and can move around enough. That way I'll always be accurate + not put too much extra strain on my hands. 

I love you.

Three buttons on top as well though with the G400s? I would like more side buttons, but really don't want to consider a wireless one.  

 

In terms of other options if I'm OK with 2 side buttons (plus three extra on top) - are there better options than the G400s?

That's true, I wasn't considering you could rebind the DPI buttons. Most other mice will only have an extra 2 on top, if any. In that regard, the G400s might be the best possible option. The only other thing that comes to mind is the Roccat Kone Pure Optical which has easy-shift, meaning that when you hold down one of the side buttons (not sure if you can change it to something else), all the other buttons on the mouse get reassigned, including scroll up/scroll down, effectively giving you another 8 buttons.

I mostly play FPS and third person action games that control like FPS.

 

I play a lot of indie style games too like platformers as well, but most of them would control better with my 360 PC pad anyway. 

 

I guess a laser is out then, which is a shame as otherwise the M95 looks about perfect.

 

What do you think of the G400s?

 

It looks like it would have just about enough buttons for me, and isn't too expensive. 

 

It also looks a bit more 'grown up' than the G502, which has that 'GAMERZ' teenage look to its aesthetic. Looks are pretty low on my priority list, but I do hate how so many PC components and accessories seem aimed at teenagers.

G400s would be fine, but if you're okay with just 2 side-buttons, then your options increase dramatically. Check out the G602 as well, it's wireless but you get the perfect sensor + multiple side-buttons combination.

What games do you play? If all you play are RPGs and Minecraft, a laser sensor will be fine. Their inferiority is only in regards to faster-paced games where clicking the right place as fast as possible is an issue (FPS, DotA, RTS etc.)

What is going on in this thread? The G502 sensor is seemingly flawless...Potentially the best sensor ever created.

Seeing as I just wrote this yesterday, I figure I'll link it...

http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/146930-what-dpi-do-you-use/?p=1986042

As I said there, you want your DPI as low as possible without it becoming impractical, with your windows pointer speed at 6/11. Do your mouse settings have "enhanced pointer precision" enabled? Because you actually want that off (it does the opposite), and it'll allow you to lower your pointer speed a bit.

Thanks, for the explanation mate.

 

As I said, I'm a newcomer to PCs (have always been a console gamer and laptops guy but just made the switch), I'd obviously been conflating screen and mouse DPI and thinking there was a relationship there.

There is a relationship, in so far as moving 1 "dot" should move your cursor 1 pixel, there's just no benefit to making your DPI match your screen's "pixel-per-inch". That'd just make it so you'd have to move your mouse the same height and width of your monitor in real life.

What is the purpose of not just working out the actual DPI of your screen, setting that, and then adjusting mouse sensitivity in the OS or game settings to get the speed of movement you want?

You can do that (though I'm not sure why you think the DPI of your mouse should match the "DPI" of your screen), but there can be problems with doing that, depending on the implementation of sensitivity adjustment in the OS/in-game.

Take windows pointer speed for example. At 6/11, you get perfect 1:1 movement. Each count (or "dot") from your mouse will move your cursor 1 pixel. However, at 8/11 it'll move your mouse 2 pixels per count...Try it out and you'll notice it becomes physically impossible to move your cursor by 1 pixel at a time. For similar reasons, anything above 6/11 has problems. Below 6/11, 5/11 is the only setting with major problems (it'll ignore 1 of every 4 counts). 4/11 equates to 1 pixel every 2 counts, which should (I think) equate to using exactly half of your current DPI. Below that I think it just cuts it in half again each time. Basically, you want to keep your windows pointer speed at 6/11.

In-game sensitivity implementations vary, but it is possible to simply lower in-game sensitivity while raising DPI to end up with zero difference.

If I have a 1080p screen at 23 inches that's a DPI of about 96 - surely if I go further than this I can't gain anything in terms of accuracy and am just increasing mouse speed artificially?

DPI has nothing to do with accuracy, as such. It's purely mouse speed.

That said, lower DPI is technically more accurate, since it gives you more room for error. Imagine playing a game where you had to hit 1 specific pixel on your monitor. Using a mouse with 1 DPI, it'd be really easy to hit, because you have room for error of an entire inch. Using a mouse with 2 DPI, you'd have half an inch of room for error. 4 DPI would give a quarter of an inch, 8 DPI an eighth, 16 DPI a sixteenth and so on. Of course, with 1 DPI, you'd need a mousepad that was 1920 inches wide and 1080 inches high to play on a 1080p monitor, assuming you didn't pick up and "reset" the position of your mouse.

This is why I tend to tell people they should have their DPI as low as possible without it becoming impractical. 1 DPI would be great if we had really long arms and a huge amount of room to work with, but as it is we only have the space of our mouse pads, or for those of us who anchor our wrists - an even smaller range of movement.

Yes they are. Selling the defective products is very bad behaviour & especially if it's hell overpriced. And they don't even replace them with new one (I doubt all lycosa are defective & they physically can't find without defective ones). Plus as I already said, I had Razer Lachesis & it lasted only year. Judging how bad quality they have from my (& not only my) experience & how overpriced they are it makes us to hate this company & never touch their products again. Just look at the feedback in ratings, you'll see what I'm talking about.

Okay. N is the rating on Newegg, A is the rating on Amazon.

Blackwidow - N: 5/5 A: 4/5

Blackwidow Ultimate - N: 5/5 A 4/5

Blackwidow Tournament - N: N/A A: 4/5

Deathstalker - N: 4/5 A: 4.5/5

Deathadder - N: 4/5 A: 4/5

Naga - N: 4/5 A: 4/5

Naga Hex - N: 4/5 A: 4/5

Ouroboros - N: 4/5 A: 3.5/5

Mamba - N: 3/5 A: 3.5/5

Taipan - N: 4/5 A: 4/5

Imperator - N: 4/5 A: 4/5

Abyssus - N: 4/5 A: 4.5/5

Somehow if Razer were selling defective products (beyond the usual), I think their ratings would be significantly lower. As for the Lycosa, you realize it's not Razer trying to sell it for $100+, right? In fact, it's discontinued, which would explain why they wouldn't/couldn't replace it.

I really don't know anyone who would pay more money and sacrifice Cherry key switches just to get a USB and audio pass through. And I'm not really aware of brands like Das and Feenix, so I guess they can just join the list of overpriced low quality products just like Razer. The main reason why I dislike Razer so much is because there products are such low quality, like I previously mentioned I had to pay shipping to get my Razer mouse replaced twice and waited months and months. If the mouse cost $30 then I might not be so angry but it cost $120.

It's still mechanical, it just uses Kailh switches, which I've yet to see any actual evidence of being inferior to Cherry (beyond one picture of a broken yellow switch which seems to be everywhere).

As for your mouse, it's too small a sample size to be able to say anything. Understandably it'd put you off buying anything Razer, but for every story like yours, I hear of others using a Deathadder or Naga after getting a couple of faulty Logitech, Corsair or Steelseries mice.

Lets do a quick keyboard comparison... Say we have under $100 to spend on a gaming keyboard. 

 

CM Storm QuickFire XT - $89

Genuine Cherry MX Red switches

N key roll-over

Removable cable

Extra key caps

USB and PS/2

Steel backplate  

 

Razer Blackwidow 2014 Edition - $99

No Cherry switches just Razer made ones

10 key roll-over

No removable cable

No extra key caps

USB only

 

As you can clearly see by avoiding Razer we can pay less and actually get more. Also a while ago I got a Razer mouse as a gift and it only took 2 weeks before it broke, so I had to pay shipping to send it back to Razer and they took ages to send me a new one. Anyway when I got it back it broke again and I just gave up a bought a Logitech G700s which is just an amazing mouse. And my keyboard is an IBM model M from 1988 and it still works great today and its well over 20 years old.

And what if I want the additional macro keys, USB pass-through and audio pass-through that you conveniently deleted from the Blackwidow's feature list?

Meanwhile, we have the Das with a smaller feature list than either of them, coming in at $139, or even better, the Feenix Autore for $169, whose marketing spiel makes Razer look positively modest about their products.

Again, Razer are no worse than many of the companies I mentioned above. Why is it Razer specifically that seems to upset you so much?

I just don't understand why people buy Razer products, they are more expensive, they aren't great quality, they love to make up fancy new technologies that are supposed to help you game better (Razer game booster) and they spend all their money on packaging and not actually on the product.

TT eSports, QPad, Feenix, Gigabyte, Roccat, Steelseries, Gamdias, Tesoro, Mad Catz, Genius, Sharkoon, Zalman...

Can you tell me how Razer's mark-up compares to any of those companies?

Can you tell me how Razer's failure rate compares to any of those companies?

Can you tell me how Razer's packaging-to-product cost ratio compares to any of those companies?

I also wonder whether you've ever pondered why people buy products from any of those companies? If not, then why not?

I really don't understand all this Razer hype. To be honest Apple and Razer are so alike, they both sell overpriced, mostly low quality technology. Apple put fancy packaging on their products and Razer put fancy packaging on their products and market it to 13 year olds. Sadly there are probably some Razer fans who would spend $500 on crappy keyboard. What ever happened to the days where everyone had a Logitech gaming keyboard and they were all the hype.

"All this Razer hype" in a thread full of Razer bashing on the back of some scam-artist on Amazon?

I see far more people criticize Razer than I see worship or even praise them.

6200, and it feels slow...

Then your windows settings are messed up or you have 3-4 monitors. You should be crossing your entire screen in a third of an inch of mouse movement.

@Toby yes. I play a lot of fps games in my free time. You have my attention

Then, technically, the R.a.t. 9 is the only wireless mouse that has both a sniper button and 3+ extra buttons, and while the mouse itself can't be plugged in to charge, its "batteries" can, so you charge one while using the other.

That said, if you want/need a sniper button, you're probably doing it wrong. If you can't hit targets without it, then your DPI is probably too high (lower is better for FPS), if you can hit targets without it, then using it should achieve nothing more than messing with your muscle memory (and thus your aim).

In addition to that, it uses a phillips twin-eye sensor, which isn't optimal for FPS. The G602 is the only wireless mouse with a sensor tailored to FPS, but it can't be charged via the computer.

There's only one mouse that fits all your requirements, but first I'm going to ask, do you want the "sniper" button for FPS games?

It's Feenix. It'll be pretty and overpriced in equal measure.

I'm getting ready for a thread of people who need to turn down their DPI.

1300 here (fingertip grip).

Carbon fiber! Aluminium! Silver! Omron! Lasers! Weights! Height!

They haven't made a mouse, they've made a toy with a list of marketing bulletpoints to make people who don't know any better go "oooh!"

There's a sore lack of real fingertip mice out there. The Spawn's probably the best thing out there, though if I recall correctly, you have to choose between 800, 1800 and 3500 DPI. If one of those is good for you, go for it.

hmm bigger then me lol, i think you should get the logitech proteus core, its awesome at well everything and has the best sensor, assuming you have the money for it.

The G502 is one of the longest mice out there - the least ideal thing for a fingertip grip.

One day. I just wished that there was some kind of small secret PC hardware shop in Lincoln or something that only us PCMasterRace knew about. I guess I was wrong. Oh wait I got a PM...........................just kidding the PCMasterRace Illuminati did in no way contact me.

Tekheads.co.uk

Linked page shows storefront, address, open times and directions. No pictures of the inside of the store though, so it might be modest.

I ask myself this question alot regarding pc and laptops recently 'how many of the people I am talking to know what they are on about or are just following a tutorial online '....like me

 

Honestly if its a big chain I can say its unlikely they know tonnes of information. As someone who used to work in retail its just impossible to know everything about what the store sells even if you work for someone whos stock is orientated round one thing ( PC world/Curry's). Although you may get lucky and find someone who knows so its always worth a try 

 

P.S as a Brit if anyone knows some good shops in the North West of England please tell me 

Scan exists in Horwich, Bolton. Is that too far south to qualify?

Edit: KustomPC exists in Ayr, Scotland, but I'm guessing that's too far in the other direction.

higher dpi is needed with different mouse pads too

You're the first person I've ever heard say this. Do you have a source? DPI should be consistent with the amount of pixels you move with an inch of mouse movement.