Theguywhobea

Is it just me or does Linus look like he just got done eating a sloppy bowl of pasta before filming this? 

Pretty confident it's the 4060 now. The 1660ti worked as well, and I tried the 4060 in a different computer and it also would not boot in that one either. Not sure what could have caused this GPU to fail so quickly, hasn't even been in use for a full month yet.

So far I have updated the BIOS to the latest version, this actually made it worse and it would no longer post with the 4060 in it anymore. I swapped in a 1050Ti and it posted and I got into Windows. It installed the graphics driver and it did the normal quick flash to black and then back to displaying properly... Not looking good so far, but once I get everything in Windows up to date I will try swapping the 4060 back in and see what it does.

Also thinking of putting in a 1660ti to test that a gpu that needs supplemental power works and this isn't a PSU issue.

8 minutes ago, Alireza said:

have you tried updating the motherboard bios to see if that makes a difference?

Not yet but I was going to try that this morning. Looking at ASRock's site it looks like there was only one bios update over the one it's on right now, so I'm not incredibly hopeful but I will give it a shot.

So, working on the PC I built for my cousins kid for his Christmas present. B550 motherboard, 5700X, 16GB RAM, RTX 4060, was running Windows 10. 

I was called yesterday when he couldn't get his PC to show anything, he said he was told to update to "Windows 5" but I believe he was actually just trying to update to Windows 11? However this kid is 10 so he was impatient and force shut down his PC while it was still installing. After this his Windows install was no good so I reinstalled Windows 10 fresh thinking this would solve his issue. However, once I got Windows 10 up and started to update, everytime it would install the GPU driver the screen would flash to black and sit there and never give me a display again. The PC was not locked up as num-pad and caps lock lights were going on and off, however if I then force shut the PC off it would start booting windows and then go to a black screen again with USB devices not powered. I would have to do this until it did a start up repair, then it would roll back to before those updates were installed and the process would start all over again.

I tried reinstalling the OS again and got the same results. I tried reseating the GPU power, I tried reseating the GPU itself, I disabled above 4G Decoding and resizable BAR, I tried installing the driver from Nvidias website with the latest driver, and then with an older driver and always got the same result. 

Is it possible this GPU is just no good? Going to try swapping out to a new GPU in a bit and see what difference that makes but figured I would post here for suggestions.

Putting together a build for my nephew after I realized I likely have enough spare parts from past builds to put together a half way decent PC. I think all he really plays in Fortnite, but I'm not entirely sure.

My question now is that I can either put in my old 1080, or an old 1660Ti. Based on benchmarks it seems like the 1080 is about 20% faster, and has more VRAM, but that architecture is getting pretty old. The 1660Ti is obviously on a newer architecture, I know it's only 1 generation newer, so I'm not sure that even really matters in the grand scheme of things.

Also, I believe most of his gaming will be done on a 60Hz 1080p monitor/TV he currently uses for an Xbox.

Budget (including currency): 0

Country: USA

Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Gaming

Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): 

Crazy to think the guy who made it is from the same town I went to high school in.

Is it trying to boot to one of the other drives in your system rather than the USB drive with Unraid on it?

Are you absolutely sure its a 3070Ti? It has the same boost clock speed as the TUF 3060Ti. If GPU-Z is reporting it as a 3060Ti, you might be mistaken. Maybe take a picture of it or the serial number or something and look that up.

1 minute ago, Dedayog said:

Define R6 as well, has the CD slot, closed front, solid side panel, and mesh top (or closed, with cover).

Yeah I have been looking at that case. Not a massive fan of front panel doors, but realistically this seems like it might be the only case you can buy new that is checking all my boxes.

Just now, Middcore said:

 

That thing has floppy drive bays. We need to distinguish between modern office PC's and office PC's from 20 years ago. 

Oh right, I just turned 30 so I am a boomer now. So I guess when I imagine a generic office PC I'm thinking of something pretty old. 

Just now, Dedayog said:

So you want something like this that has airflow, room and air for a radiator?

 

 

Yeah I think you are on the right track. 

This would almost be perfect if it just had a perforated top panel

I'm on the hunt for a kind of strange case by today's standard. I really like cases that look as close to like, a generic office PC as possible while still having decent internal mounting options.

My specific requirements:

Fits ATX motherboard

Has an optical drive bay

Can fit a 240mm radiator (preferably in the top)

Absolutely no side windows, RGB, tempered glass. Closest thing I have found so far would maybe be an Antec P10 Flux, but I'm not a huge fan of the bare slab front.

1 minute ago, ChonkerFox said:

That's bullshit.  eBay will side with you.  file a return. ignore the seller.  explain that it does not work

Yeah no worries man, I was already sent a return label from eBay. I will be sure to be documenting my packing it up to send back though just in case lol.

5 minutes ago, CommanderAlex said:

Hmm that's unusual. Does the seller's store show other computer items as well??

No, just model trains. Even though his profile says no returns it appears he has accepted a return this time? So I guess this card will just be going back. To be honest, still not convinced $180 for a working 2080Ti was even that amazing of a deal?

Just now, CommanderAlex said:

Ohh!! It's gonna be one of those sellers...yeah definitely if they want to be snarky about it I'm sure they might be hiding something about it. 

Hopefully it's not stolen or something? He kept saying he had no way to test it, which makes it sound like it obviously wasn't something he purchased at any point... 

1 minute ago, CommanderAlex said:

Still though, imo, used mean it's not new or NIB and has been opened and confirms to be in working condition. The way this graphics card is working out for you would be "For parts or not working". Seller should have marked it as "For parts" since it was not tested and well they should pick up the tab here.

Yeah this guy just would not hear that at all, and said I should have asked him questions about it before I submitted my offer lol.

14 minutes ago, ChonkerFox said:

might be why the dude was selling it.  If it was sold to you as used and it isn't functioning then you can return it (even if the seller put "no returns" in the description.) If it was sold as for part or not working you're sol.  OR you could try reapplying thermal paste (Thermal Grizzly's Hydronaut is a good one)  and see if that works.  Your focus 750W shouldn't be tripping if it is only drawing 275W cause your 11900K won't be drawing 500W in a game

 

I'm not sure how the 20 series does when it come to transient loads.  I know the 30 series was spikey as hell (sometimes 3x TDP of the card)  Could be the heat is causing some instability in the power draw of the card and causing enough transient to trip OCP on your PSU 

Yeah that's the thing, it was sold as "Used" condition, but he wrote "untested" in the sellers description. I contacted him to try to work it out without having to get eBay involved but he is firm that even though he sold it as Used it doesn't have to work properly, so I will let eBay sort it out.

The odd thing is that it doesn't even reset the whole graphics driver, just the game? Like explorer stays working, my other monitor stays on showing video like normal.

Alright so I recently low balled a guy on a eBay for a used 2080Ti and it ended up working out. However, now that I have it in my system, it doesn't seem to be working all that well. My current setup is an 11900k at stock settings, 32GB RAM, Seasonic Focus 750w power supply, and the aforementioned 2080Ti. Whenever I boot into a game, it crashes the game within a minute or two maybe, sometime I don't even get in the game. I have been able to see through GPUZ and Afterburner that it appears to either crash when it reaches a hotspot temp of 105C, or when it starts drawing around ~275w. This is also the Gaming X Trio version so it has 2 8 Pins and 1 6 Pin, all of them are connected using their own separate cable going to the PSU.

I am starting to get suspicious that the GPU itself is busted as firstly it was packed incredibly poorly, and when I got it out it had some nasty gunk on it? It also smelled kind of sweet? I took the back plate off and cleaned it all off with IPA, and there was no signs of corrosion or burn marks or anything troubling. 

Hoping this just means it probably needs to be completely torn down and cleaned + repasted?

To wrap this thread up, I re-terminated each end, and that has fixed the issue. Makes sense now after looking at how the old plugs were on, they had the wires in the wrong order. 

1 minute ago, Blue4130 said:

Is it a smart probe? Will it actually map the wires and let you know if the installer crimped the ends in the correct order?

 

If it was me, and there was enough slack in the cable, I'd just recrimp myself.

I believe it's telling me the ends are all there, but I will re-crimp it tomorrow. I have already crimped other cables around the house that had no ends on them and are using the same CAT5E and I am getting full gigabit on those connections, so my guess is the ends here are bad.  

4 minutes ago, Blue4130 said:

It could be a bad cable, either in pinout misconfigured, or a break in one of the wires. The only way to know which is to use a cable tester. (or just scrap it and pull a new line)

I do have a tester (Klein Tools VDV500-705). I tried it just now and it ran through all the wires with it connected at both end and I got a green light on each, which I think means it is good, right?

So, I recently bought a house which happens to already have CAT5E run to most rooms. Working on getting my network setup but I have ran into a small issue. I have a router in the basement where my Verizon ONT is, then from one of the ethernet ports on the router I have a CAT6 cable running up through the floor to a small under stairs closet. In that closet I then have a gigabit POE switch (TP-Link TL-SG1005P V2) that the CAT6 is connected to. Then from one of the ports on that switch it goes through the already installed CAT5E in the house to my living room, where it is connected to my access point (TP-Link EAP235-Wall). All of these devices support gigabit, however the access point says it's only connected at 100Mbps FD and the light on my switch is yellow meaning it is only at 100Mbps.

What is the deal with this? The wire run through the house appears to be intact, with all the conductors connected at each end? Is this a A vs B wiring issue?

I tested with a short wire between the switch and the AP and I DID get a full gigbit connection, so it's a wiring issue? Maybe wiring length?

https://developer.nvidia.com/video-encode-and-decode-gpu-support-matrix-new

1050Ti can do up to 5 encoding sessions at once, and supports H264, H265 and HEVC. Those should be pretty cheap these days and don't need external power.

11 minutes ago, BondiBlue said:

Are you sure you know what you need? None of the things you're saying make any sense. Windows Deployment Services has nothing to do with a file server. 

I think this is like a bot / ai account