crumbworks

Hey all! I know there is no one-size-fits-all answer to this question, but figured I'd ask My SSD (C:\) is 120GB (111GB usable) It usually sits between 15-20GB free Rather than turn off my PC, I often put it to sleep every night Over the last week, I noticed my free space drop to 10GB, then 8.7GB, etc Yesterday it was down to 6.8 GB free and was in "red" in My Computer Today I woke up my PC and there was only 3.11 GB free -- only about 2%. ahhhhhh. So I deleted/uninstalled stuff... cleared cache from FF and Chrome... did the Windows cleanup utility thing on temp files / thumbnails etc... and moved ~1GB to my server I got up to 5.51 GB free, which is still... not great After doing all that, I reboot my PC After the restart, I jumped from 5.5 GB free to 16.3 GB free I know there are likely many logical reasons why, but what are they?! What the heck would cause 10GB to free up after the reboot?

Could be. But that is also at load. I'm never really at load. Either way, I am going to test it by moving my desktop off of the UPS so it is only my NAS and monitor, and see if it happens again. If it doesn't, then maybe it just lacks the capacity and I need to get a larger one.

While I may be wrong, I feel it has little to do with the load. I have a Kill-A-Watt and have measured it many times. The PC only hits 200W when I have Handbrake maxing out all 4 cores 100% (and when just watching TV or browsing the web, it's around 68W) A typical 1080p monitor uses 27W, I think I measured mine using 30W once The QNAP NAS uses ~24W when all 4 drives are spinning, closer to 10W when idle So just watching a TV episode today with my NAS idle, it was 100 to 120 W load. Also I've been gaming on my PC 2+ hours a day without issue for 2 months now and for it to do this 2 weeks apart at the same exact time (7pm) is suspicious lol. (also, I know which ports are the battery and which are surge only lmao. on April 1st, the PC and monitor turned off, this time they remained on... plugged into the same outlets.... it's not like I was sitting there swappin' them around lol) That is good to know! I think I'll end up contacting them. Did they ask you for proof of purchase? As I noted, it was a gift (from people who bought it locally, not online) but I am pretty sure they kept the receipt.

Hey all! (I hope this is the right sub-category to post to.) I got a new UPS in mid-Feb to replace my old one that died entirely (after 15 years of use!) It's a smaller capacity unit (255 W / 450 VA) than my last one, and unfortunately it lacks USB so I can't monitor it with PowerChute like before The load on it is minimal: A mid-range gaming desktop I built ~10 years ago A single 1080p monitor A 4-bay NAS from QNAP Anyway, this is what happened... April 1st:: I am gaming... 10 min into my game, I hear a click from my UPS (the kind of click you hear when it does a battery self-test, I think?) and my PC + monitor immediately turn off my NAS stays on, despite being on the same battery The UPS starts to let out a constant high-pitched alarm/beep + its single status LED is now alternating red/green After safely shutting down my NAS, I hold down the power button on the UPS for 3 sec until its fully off... wait 10 sec... press it again... it turns on, does a self-test with that click noise, and seems normal Turn on my PC... turn on my NAS... we're up... we're fine after that... all seems normal. April 15th: Just watching a TV episode, so no gaming load or anything The same click noise happens (I think it happens regularly, to test itself?) followed by the same constant high-pitched alarm/beep + the status LED alternating red/green again My desktop, monitor, and NAS remained up the whole time I safely turn off my PC and NAS, repeat the power cycle of my UPS, and once again, it does a self-test with that click noise, and it's got a normal green LED I may be wrong, but I am preetttty sure this happened at the exact same time two weeks apart. Saturday at 7pm, two weeks apart. It was a gift but I can probably contact the gifter to have it replaced, but I am wondering what y'all think is happening. Defective battery? Defective unit? Something else? Thanks in advance for any help/advice

Hey all. Thanks in advance for any advice. I hope this is the right sub-category to post to. After 15 years with my old APC UPS (and multiple battery replacements over the years), it finally died outright and I got a new one 6 weeks ago. It's a smaller capacity unit (255 W / 450 VA) than my previous one, but I lose power extremely rarely. It's just in case. I hooked it up mid-Feb and all seemed fine -- gaming, general PC use, watching movies, etc (and I haven't lost power in that time, either) Things on the battery of my UPS: A mid-range gaming desktop I built ~10 years ago (uses about 70W idle, 200W when gaming) A single 1080p monitor A 4-bay NAS from QNAP All in all, a relatively modest load Anyway, this is what happened about an hour ago: I pull up a game (one I've put 30+ hours into recently, without issue) and 7 or 8 min into playing, my desktop and monitor turn off At the same time, I hear a click from my UPS (the click you hear when it turns on or does a self-test) + it lets out a constant high-pitched tone + its single status LED is alternating red/green My NAS remained up despite being on the same battery backup outlets -- only my desktop and monitor turned off So with my PC still off, I safely shut down my NAS Then I hold down the power button on the UPS until its fully off... wait 30 sec... press it again... it turns on, does a self-test with the common click noises (self-test passes) and it's got a normal green LED Turn on my PC... turn on my NAS... we're up, we're fine, been about 45 min since, all seems OK... What the heck happened? Bad battery? Random one-off fluke? It's a model that doesn't support USB into my PC so I can't monitor it with PowerChute, but the user manual says this, which is why I am concerned:

Thanks. The app will do for now. I was hoping for email (which I forward to my work email) as I rarely have my phone around when I work, but this will do. Cheers.

Hey all I get emails when an amazon.ca order is placed and when it is shipped, but I'm wondering if there is a way to get either an email or an SMS when the status is flipped to 'delivered' (like when they leave it on my front porch etc) I googled and found such a thing exists for .com but found nothing for .ca (typical... we get a bit screwed up here...) Anyone know if this is possible? Thanks!

Hey all. I feel like this is an odd question but I cant figure it. My previous phones (Nexus S, Moto X 2014, Nexus 5, etc) all worked as intended in terms of notifications, but my Pixel 3a does not It was set up for notification sounds for when my ringer was on (just sound, no vibration) and if I switched to Android's vibrate mode, it vibrated instead. Easy enough, right? Vibrate in lieu of the sound. Common sense, at least in my head. Not so with my Pixel 3a. In Vibrate mode, the app will only vibrate if I set it to vibrate INDIVIDUALLY in the settings itself. Meaning it vibrates all the time, even when the ringer is on. I can't get it to vibrate only in vibrate mode. If I don't enable 100% vibration, the notifications in vibrate mode pop up silently. It was like this in Android 10 it came with, and Android 11 now as well. Any advice?

Hey all I've got a fully functional 14 year old laptop. It works great as a general purpose machine ever since I threw an SSD into it Windows 7 x64... 120GB drive in NTFS... mobo has Intel GM965 chipset if that matters It has a built in SD card reader. I just grabbed the 64GB Sandisk out of a friend's DSLR and seemed to have no issue --> ~60 GB displayed, exFAT format, read and wrote from it fine Basically just wondering if the older laptop itself limits me in any way in terms of the capacity SD card I can pop in there? Just don't want to buy a 128GB+ and end up with a 2g paperweight (lol) Thanks!

Hey all. Just upgraded to a Pixel 3a and I love it. However, it's missing two features that my old phone had and I'd rather not give up. 1) It had a built in gesture control for turning on and off my flashlight. I'd do like a 'karate chop' motion twice to toggle it 2) It had a built in 'ringer mode change' based on location or SSID. So when I was within 100m of the long/lat of "work", it would switch to vibrate... and when I exited outside of that zone, it would switch back to ringer. It could also do this based on "when I auto-hop onto so-and-so Wi-Fi network, do that... when back on LTE, switch to ringer" I'm looking for simple apps that will grant me these two functions back. ....or if I am a dunce and functionality for either-or is built into Android 10 and I'm just not seeing it, hey, let me know :) Thanks!!

The issue turned out to be an odd incompatibility between my phone and the headset. When I paired that headset with 3 other people's phones, the mic portion worked perfectly fine and it was issue-free. They only ran me $9 so I bought a skullcandy pair of on-ear bluetooth headphones for $25 and use those instead. No issues there.

Thanks again Enderman! I love it! (this was before I swapped out the Enter and Space to achieve white keycap uniformity)

Nothing wrong with recommending Corsair -- I love their products! I saw that one too, but I don't like the Cherry MX Speed switches. Is that SE board available with other switches?

For aesthetics, you're right. But my reason for white is because my eyes don't track well on black keyboards, so it's no issue at all.

Holy crap that may be the winner. It checks all my boxes, and I like Ducky. I don't care about black on the bottom lol. When am I ever looking at the bottom of my keyboard?

The ways my eyes work, black writing on white backgrounds is easier. It's how my eyes operate (I don't have great low-light vision) and it's also why "night mode" sites are hell to read. It's also why despite every other aspect of my rig being black (as is the norm these days), my keyboard is white. It's much easier for me to see and track the keys (when I do happen to look down) Back in the mid 2000s, I got a basic wired PS/2 keyboard. A simple full-sized white membrane keyboard for $10.99. No extra buttons like power, sleep, browser, etc. Nothing fancy --- no bells, no whistles. It did the trick, so went back and bought 2 backups (I mean, $11 is nothing). This is back when finding peripherals in white/beige was still easy. Fast forward to 2019, and the last of those keyboards is starting to give out a bit... and of course, nothing is white/beige anymore. I want to look into a mechanical keyboard to replace it (preferably with tactile non-clicky switches like MX Browns, or the equivalent) but I'm looking for it to be: White Full size (no mini / 90% / tenkeyless) Standard key layout (as in, takes no liberties with key placement or size from the normal layout) A backlight is entirely optional (if its white, I likely won't need it as I always have plenty of lights on) Preferably with as little fancy "stuff" as possible -- I don't need programmable macro keys, USB charging ports, or any "gamer" features I'd be okay with volume up / down / mute.... but even that I can easily go without What can you recommend? Please and thank you!

Thanks all for the info! I opened up Speccy and the motherboard tab does in fact say "Chipset Model: GM965" so that answers that.

Heya! I have a Toshiba laptop from 2007. Still works great almost 12 years later, no jokes The only issue is the RAM -- it's running Windows 7 64-bit and frankly 2GB is now pathetic (2 tabs in Chrome + Excel + VLC, and I'm over 90% util lol). Plus I can tell it's utilizing virtual memory a ton. It came with 1 GB (two sticks x 512 MB) which I swapped to 2 GB (2 x 1GB) in 2011. The original spec sheet said: 1GB (2 x 512 MB) DDR2 PC2-5300 (5-5-5-15) Maximum RAM: 2GB Is there something hardware-side that restricts it to 2 gigs, or is that bogus and I can pop it to 4 or more? I know 32-bit can do up to 4GB and 64-bit can do up to 128 GB, but is there anything hardware-wise holding it back?

Thanks LeadOn. Hopefully someone has suggestions!

Hey all. I got Bluetooth headphones recently and I am having an odd issue. The audio quality for music is great (YouTube, my song collection, etc)... but when I place or receive a call, there is a deafeningly loud horn-like crackly buzzing noise the moment I hit the call button, or the moment I accept an incoming call, and it continues into the call with this noise instead of the person's voice -- and the other person hears it too on their end of the call, saying it was very loud like a constant "crackling boat horn". Things to note: - I contacted the seller, they thought it was a bad mic so sent me a replacement... same thing on 2nd pair - I then paired the replacement with a co-worker's phone and it worked fine, so it seems isolated to my device - I've had a Samsung bluetooth headset since 2010 (hm1100) and it works fine for phone calls on my old smartphone and this one Things I tried before contacting seller:- unpairing and re-pairing- turning it off and back on- turning my phone off and back on - turning on hearing aid compatibility mode (suggestion I found online)- on the 3rd try turning the headphones off and back on, it worked (I could have a conversation using it), but on attempts 1, 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 onward it was just that awful horn-like static madness - I tried it with Google Hangouts and it didn't make the weird noise.... but it was a one-way convo. the person on the other end could hear me well, but I couldn't hear them in my ears Any idea why this may be? The headset has like a zillion reviews on Amazon.ca and no one else mentions this.... plus the fact it works fine on my co-worker's phone means the product itself is likely fine Moto X 2nd Gen running Android 6.0Thanks all!

"Lossless Audio" section of site. One album's description says Quality: 974 kbps / 44.1kHz / 2 channels Source: CDEncoder: FLAC 1.2.1Size: 446.57 MB Another says: Year: 2013 Source: CDDAR.Date: 05-29-2013 Grabber: EAC SecureS.Date: 05-22-2013 Encoder: FLAC 1.2.1 LosslessQuality: 860 kbps Avg 44.1kHz 2 channels

Hey all I'm new to the world of "better audio" in that I just got a DAC... a few hours ago! I wholeheartedly admit I don't have the best hearing, but I am wondering if anyone has tips to get the most of my audio experience? What I have: Old Audio Solution: Onboard Audio (Realtek chip on a 7 year old Gigabyte mobo, well before they started having the audio 'electrically separated' etc) New Audio Solution: FiiO E10K USB DAC Speakers: Meh, just your standard Logitech Z523 2.1 system (40 watts) Headphones: Sennheiser HD 428 Most of my music: either the absolute basics (128 kbps or 192 kbps MP3s, some 320 kbps VBR MP3s) Some of my music: FLAC ~1040 kbps Settings tweaked: - Go to Playback Devices in Win 7 settings, select the DAC (SPDIF Interface / FiiO USB DAC-E10), Properties, checked all 4 'Sample Rates' and set Default Format from "CD Quality" to "2-channel, 24 bit, 44100 Hz (Studio Quality)" and - Downloaded Foobar and the WASAPI output API, and set the program's output to WASAPI (event): SPDIF Interface (FiiO USB DAC-E10) as I was told this lets it "send out the signal bit-perfect" and disables Win' ability to interfere Test I've done (with headphones) From Most basic use case (my 128 kbps MP3s, no WASAPI in plain ol' Winamp, through my desktop's front audio on Realtek's sound chipset) to A better use case, I think? (1040 kbps FLAC of the same song, played in Foobar with WASAPI enabled, plugged into headphone amp port of the DAC) There is a difference, I guess? It's not by much, if even perceivable. Is it my sub-par hearing, the files, my headphones, or are there other things I'm missing? Consider me a complete audio noob. Thank ya! Chris

It wasn't display related. I ended up removing all her "accounts" (Google, Whatsapp, Skype, etc) and re-adding them, and that did the trick. Something glitched and that's the only thing that fixed it up.

I'm trying to fix my mother's Android phone (Nexus 5 with Android 6.0.1) Half a dozen contacts are showing up twice but they are NOT duplicates -- meaning: - if I highlight one of them to select it, it highlights both lines - it detects I'm only highlighting 1 entry (says so at the top), even though it has a checkmark on both - there's no "merge" button because, as I said, it detects it's a single entry I'm highlighting, not 2+ (it's simply listing it twice) - It only shows the merge icon up top if I select a DIFFERENT contact along with "Marc" (using example below), because then it realizes two are being selected - I even exported the Vcard and it also shows the entries only once - Same thing on Contacts via computer -- the entry is singular - Yet her phone shows those particular people on two lines - Any tips / suggestions? I've crashed Contacts app, cleared cache, rebooted phone, etc. See screenshot

Right off the bat, I know the vast majority of people do not auto-hide the taskbar... but I do and I always have, since Windows 98. For the past 8-10 months, Chrome has been broken and constantly goes on top and won't let me bring up the taskbar with the mouse. It only happens in Chrome. I can alt-tab to any other application and the taskbar will come up just fine. - It's not just my desktop (happens on my laptop too) -- both are Win 7 x64 - Seems to even happen in a fresh install of Windows - It's only Chrome, as far as I can tell I've tried tons of things from Google searches (adding flags to the shortcut link, changing compatibility modes, turning off and back on some Chrome settings, turning off auto-hide and back on, reinstalling Chrome, etc) to no avail. The only temporary "fix" I've found is to unmaximize Chrome, bring up the taskbar, move my mouse to let it auto-hide (aka slide back down), then re-maximize Chrome. This only fixes it for maybe 10-15 minutes of general use, then same thing. Helpppppppppppppppppppp.... P.S. If I maximize a YouTube video and then un-maximize, it always happens. That is one thing that often triggers it.