kkpatel87

So basically that setup is a microcomputer with a display attached. That setup communicates via USB to AIDA64 installed on the host machine. It is incredibly customizable. I am still finalizing my setup but you can connect to an internal or external USB port and it will work.

Its actually setup as a independent computer that pulls data via USB from your main computer.

It should, but make sure you do quite a few test crimps to get the hang of it. The official molex one is obviously better and the correct tooling but the bellmouth profile has been around for ages and is replicated fairly well by iwiss and the other cheap tooling alternatives. In terms of wire, you can use any kind of primary wire that supports 12VDC loading. If you wanna be extra fancy, you can get mil-spec (600V or higher) off ebay for cheap. Connectors are Molex Mini-fit jr...there are plenty of resources on that out in the world. I would warn you though...if you dont have the expertise or patience, dont do it to cheap out on not having someone qualified to do it.

To avoid this issue in this issue in the future, i would recommend reading Book 7 in the IT mastery series by Lucas/Jude. There is a very good description in there on how to name drives.

The unfortunate thing is that its not quite off the shelf. Your only, cost effective, option is to build it yourself. If you have the money, someone with expertise and tooling could build that for you. PM me if you are interested and i could help you out.

What you are looking for is a diffuser to get rid of the hot spots. You most likely will have to buy the strips and get diffused light bars from a vendor and assemble yourself.

Something like this? https://www.ebay.com/itm/BeadaPanel-7-LCD-Display-for-AIDA64-USB-Single-Cable-Gadget-Monitor-w-Touch-/113404121186

why not use point-to-multipoint wireless instead?

Or can you create a motherboard cover that is painted. I would highly recommend against painting a motherboard.

I wanted to pose this question out to this sub-forum: What is the level of interest for those of you who go the route of creating your own router or use a non-ISP provided router to have an enclosed 1U network appliance that has the following: DOCSIS 3.1 modem Mini-itx system (install PFSense or whatever your preferred router flavor) or even a built in router board or etc. 1U but quiet such that it can run in a living room or office rack without too much noise Single AC power inlet Personally, i usually have two racks: A short depth, baby 3U to 6U-ish rack near the point of internet entrance A larger rack in a garage, basement, or closet for the noisier and heavier servers Having used a lot of different gear, I have found the 1U Modem/Router appliance to be something of a necessity. I would love to hear some of your guys' opinion and commentary on this. If anyone is interested in acquiring a unit, feel free to PM me and we can go from there.

Nah, he said it was crap and they dont want it to be released. You can easily create your own that would be better than what they came up with.

That is one reason but also the rack is on carpet plus you have some nice gear in it, it just makes sense. The idea is to make sure the rack itself is on the same ground plane as all the equipment in it. My recommendation would be to create a simple harness that bonds the chassis to your house ground. There should be grounding studs on the rack itself. If not, you can punch a hole, create a buildup with a screw and washer, and run a ground wire from there to a an outlet plug ground or to your UPS or PDU, etc.

I think the big thing to me is the platform you have your motherboard on. Frankly, the design is not the issue but the execution. Here is what i would recommend The pylons look to be different sizes and dont look square to the main platform. The white paint contrasts to the desk color in a bad way...I would paint it gray or black. You need to spend time sanding and making sure the surfaces are porous or rough. The white paint exacerbates the poor finish. Depending on your budget, you have a couple options: If you want to stick with wood, i would make a nice "n" shape channel platform with a dark stain. If you can swing it, you can create a platform from sheet metal and anodize and powdercoat.

i would give it a 2/10 for the following reasons: Fit and finish look bad. Cable management needs a lot of work. Where is the power switch and other front panel items located? That being said, If you like it who cares what other's think?

Neat! No comments really, but i would recommend making sure you have good grounding in the rack.

First, these are not n00b questions. The unfortunate reality is that most people treat building computers like lazily putting together legos rather than an assembly process. Most Youtubers dont do this either for whatever reasons. Additionally many people will suggest not to as they are confident in their ability to tighten a fitting without process. Watercooling fittings are considered G1/4 which is a shortened form of 1/4 British Standard Pipe Parallel (BSPP). This is also known as Whitworth threading and is governed by ISO1179. This means the thread type, 1/4"-19, of the fitting is parallel on the male and female side (this is important for later). Torque ratings for this are majorly dependent on two things, material of fitting and material of internally threaded item (rad, block, etc.). Typically, 30-35 N-m should do it. This is lower than the recommended 50 N-m listed in ISO1179 but i would recommend against that as the materials in computer watercooling are not as strong. However, a good rule of thumb is to tighten 2-3 turns past hand tight. Unfortunately, no real metric on this one. Tighten the clamp until it bottoms out on the fitting. This is an O-ring on the base of the fitting that provides the seal. This is typically of flanged, parallel thread pipe fittings. Teflon tape/thread seal is a bad idea in watercooling loops as pieces of that may get into the loop.

Looking good! Do you have any cad model screenshots you can show? It would be awesome to see what your final vision looks like. What are you doing in your case to accommodate wire routing?

First of all, congrats! I hope you enjoy your time in Japan. In terms of your usage are you more concerned about productivity (Adobe Suite + CAD) or gaming? Usually this doesnt result in much difference but a heavier focus on one or the other could influence Graphics card choices, etc.

There isn't and existing solution unless you design and fabricate a shell that goes on top of it or replaces it. Laptops, especially newer ones, are not very receptive to DIY approaches. This is also something that if you do not have the engineering skills or the funds you will not create something worth using. Additionally, you don't have the laptop in hand so how do you know its actually "flimsy"? Flimsy is subjective, what is solid for one person is flimsy to another. Does it deflect in a certain direction, is there odd loading, etc?

Turns out i am not too happy with my intial concept. I am not too happy with the fit so i think i will adjust and add some flanges to attach to a rail.

A few questions: What NAS OS do you plan on using? How many drives do you want to expand to beyond 8? Here is my usage: I have the X10 version of the supermicro motherboard that i am using in my FreeNAS build. I have a PCIE 16x slot so i have two HBAs (in bifurcation 8x/8x) plus the slots on the mobo. Both HBAs provide 8 and the mobo has 6 which yields me 22. I use 2 for the OS and 8 for drives currently. I can expand another 12 drives as my space decreases. Looking at your usage, i would recommend the ASRock version IF it supports PCIE bifurcation so you can have multiple devices connected to the PCIE x16 link.

Not bad! Now this is a cool build log! Personally, i would have tapped off internal power if there was a 5V rail if i went with your solution. Another solution could be to attach the pi (in its own enclosure) behind the routerboard...that way the power would be hidden and the network cable would go through the comb under the router like the other connections. All this to say that your cool idea has sparked my thought process haha.

Anything with a discrete GPU should be acceptable. I typically prefer Dell Precision series.

Personally, i find it hilarious, I am not sure why they just didnt pickup a pack of washers that cost less than that lol. However, nickels used in that application are considered illegal per 18 USC §333: Very unlikely that anyone would go after someone defacing less than a dollar lol.

I have seen a lot of people use Visio. I prefer using AutoCAD.