MoeBrowne

Awesome stuff Linus. I would over clock and water cool the crap out of that! Thanks Linus, Intel & Gigabyte!

Assuming your pump can maintain the same flow rate at the increased pressure you would get the effect you're after. Although it is likely that this is already happening in your radiator, this is why the input to the radiator is (usually) split in to multiple channels that flow in parallel (they of course also spread the heat). You're probably thinking slowing it down even more with narrowed tubes would be better? It depends on the difference between ambient (or rather the temperature of the air going into your radiator) and the temperature of the coolant flowing into the radiator (ΔT). Newtons Law of Cooling describes: As the temperature of a body increases, the amount of energy dissipated from the body to its surrounds is indirectly proportional to the difference between the temperatures. (a graph showing the temperature of an object as it cools over time gives a similar same shape to that of the activity of a decaying isotope) So unless your radiator or water block are highly inefficient you're going to see little difference unless ΔT is large.

Head pressure is totally irrelevant once the system is primed as the force required to push the water skywards is exactly (near enough anyway) equal to the force caused by the water falling earthward. There is no potential for flow. This is why siphons work, there is a potential between the high point and the lower point.

Sorry, at the moment it's a pile of pieces, it's totally dismantled because I'm waiting on parts.

The video linked below give you an idea of what's required with a before and after. People always say use a 1N4002 but any diode will do unless its something particularly weird. You just have to make sure the diode is around the right way, putting it in the wrong way wont damage anything the pump just wont spin.

There is lots of posts on this all over the internet about this, one fix is to add a diode to the power cable. I don't know why this works but I know first hand that it does. Have a Google and you will find loads of speculation as to why.

No he doesn't talk about actually removing the struts, but then I wouldn't removing them as the top can require significant force to remove and without these struts it might not withstand the force. They were put in for a reason after all... I guess you could loosen up the studs that hold the roof in place or replace them with another fixing. By the way he starts talking about supported radiator thickness and placement around 16 minutes in.

I should make it clear I wasn't and aren't disagreeing with you quite the reverse in fact, just adding information

If anyone is interested the thermal expansion of water between 4C to 100C is ~5%

There are struts that run along the top that will allow only 90x90x23mm fans. Removing the struts (they aren't screwed in or anything you would have to permanently alter the case) would leave you with enough room for 140x140x23mm fans but reduce the strength of the top cover significantly. This is actually covered in the video Whaler_99 posted above... You may also want to read this thread and consider using push or pull http://linustechtips.com/main/forum/computer-hardware/water-cooling/38409-push-pull-or-push-pull

Normal fans are brush-less meaning an IC is required to deal with the coil switching (also RPM sensing) so unless 'reverse' is an in built function of the control circuitry there is no way to reverse the spin.

I to recently bought this case, although I'm not using a standard width radiator, which I assume you're referring to, there is more than enough room in the roof for even the thickest radiators plus fans and space for tubing etc. You could also mount a triple radiator in the front of the case, though that's not ideal if you're planning on drawing air in through the front, or want to use the bottom 5.25" drive bay.

They typically tend to be as thin as possible on the base, while still retaining enough structural rigidity. Also thinner means less Copper which means less cost. I have seen a few other custom water blocks using the spiral design, most notable are the ones with multiple 'arms' to the spiral increasing surface area and flow compared to a single channel. I would also be very interested in seeing a blog/project log of your work.

That's all assuming he doesn't require a new case to accommodate the new parts.

Keep them combined, I don't see any reason to split them apart?