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About PlayerX

  • Title
  • Birthday 1998-09-19

Contact Methods

  • Steam

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    computer(Hardware), computermodding, mechanical engineering, coding, plc
  • Occupation
    Student (TUM)


  • CPU
    Intel Core i7-4790k
  • Motherboard
    MSI Z97-G43 Gaming
  • RAM
    Kingston HyperX Savage 8GB @1600MHz
  • GPU
    MSI nvidia GeForce GTX 960
  • Case
    NZXT Phantom
  • Storage
    Samsung 970 Evo NVMe M.2 256GB SSD; Samsung SSD 840 EVO 120GB; Seagate Barracuda 2TB; Western Digital Blue 4TB
  • PSU
    CoolerMaster B700 (700W)
  • Display(s)
    BenQ BL2711U
  • Cooling
    Noctua NH-D15
  • Keyboard
    Logitech G610
  • Mouse
    Steelseries Rival 100
  • Sound
    Onboard Soundcard
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro 64-bit

Recent Profile Visitors

669 profile views
  1. I have to assent to what adammmmmm said: The heat flow is proportional to the Delta_T and therefore it's convinient to measure somehow that (for example on a waterblock). I wrote down a "short" example of the logic and math behind all this, so you maybe understand how this should work: Hope this is not too complicated and clears some questions on how accurate this method is. On the question, why measuring the current that goes to the cpu doesn't give you the heat output: this will give you the approximate heat output of the cpu AND everything thats in that circuit after the CPU. Approximate because you have to also account loss in energy due to creation of electromagnetic fields and therma radiation, both negligible effects (as far as I'm aware).
  2. Have you tried a CMOS-reset? generally that solves most of the post-related problems.
  3. For those who might encounter the same problem: I resolved everything with a BIOS update. However, when the E0 problem comes up, you're not able to enter the BIOS. For me, a long (extra long; a few minutes instead of 5-10s) CMOS-reset (removing power, removing CMOS-battery, shorting the JBAT1(?) jumper / or just leaving the battery out for a few hours) was enough for me to get into the BIOS. However, the issue seems to no appear again after putting in a new gpu permanently. So I guess it was some psu-gpu-motherboard incompatibility. Update: After a board replacement everything worked fine, so it was just a bad board. Hope this is useful for someone. Good luck and have a nice day, Matthias
  4. Is windows running on the HDD? If so: have you checked the health of the HDD? To me, this seems to be more a problem of the HDD than of the PSU. Does the HDD make strange noises while the pc froze? (If yes, then try to immediately backup your data. I'm 99% sure that the problem is then caused by the (failing) HDD)
  5. Hi everyone, So, I have build a new pc (specs below). Shortly after building it, I started it and it worked fine. The next day I started it again and it didn't boot. It got stuck at code "E0". I tried the following: I removed the GPU Then I reset the CMOS Then I removed all RAM sticks except for one Then I reset the CMOS Then I removed all drives Then I reset the CMOS Afterwards it worked. Then I reconnected everything and it still worked. I tried restarting the pc a couple of times and it still worked. After a couple of hours I tried to turn it on, but still the same error. I even tried to swap the RAM for other, still no result. So at the moment I'm a bit desperate, because I wouldn't know, what could be the problem. The strange thing is, that the hardware was working fine. Here the specs: i7 9700K 4x8GB Corsair Vengeance Pro RGB DDR4 3000MHz Corsair H150i Pro RGB AiO liquid cooler (Maybe this causes also a problem) MSI MEG Z390 ACE (It has two 8-pin CPU connectors) Corsair RM850 PSU Samsung M.2 NVMe SSD Samsung SATA SSD general HDD I would be grateful if you had some idea what I could try next, or what could cause this problem. Thank you, Matthias
  6. Have you tried to clear cmos? It sometimes solves the problem. It worked for me once.
  7. Myom -Destiny.zipHi.

    Thanks for your response.

    I would really like to se how would this design  work atleast in wirtual world. Back in time it was big and expensive waterblock. But maybe it would fit todays threadripper cpus. :)

    I have design it with my friend while I was on high school. It was created in Pro Engeneer Wildfire 3 i think. Maybe I still have copy of educational version somewhere so I could try to conwert it to step files if needed.

    Files in latest folder are for ProE, Invertor and igs. I hope that  files  will work for you.

    1. Show previous comments  2 more
    2. PlayerX


      So I ran the simulation today. I made some pictures and put that in a zip folder. If you want me to show some specific part of the simulation, just tell me.

      I ran the cooler for a 250W CPU (2990WX - has similar surface area to the one of your cooler)


      For the problem with the turbolence: the simulation was just not accurate enough for the numerical method to be stable in certain areas, so it converges to a solution, that doen't make a lot of sense. Aside from this digression into numerical mathematics 😅, this can be solved by making the small cells (like in the finite element method) smaller.

      After I ran this simulation, the results looked quite good, except that the inflow was not symmetrical (on one picture with the streamlines you can see it). I discovered that this is because of the boundary condition I had to set: in addition to a inlet and outlet it needed also some information about pressure. Therefore I set the surface on the inside of the fitting as source of a slight overpressure, but as the cylindrical surfaces are all separated into two parts on this model, it probably generates this pressure just on one side of the fitting making the flow assymetrical (more towards the front)


      Said that, here's the ZIP

    3. Woyta


      Thanks a lot.

      It shows what we  have been expecting (Good cooling under jets and ribs are mostly just for directing flow) and what we have to improve.

      Area  under middle fitting seems to profit from change shape to cone and shorter fitting. I see lot of restriction there.

      It look like  working concept for me. :)


      I would like to see it compared in lab in real  conditons with other blocks. too bad, that czech watercooling lab is closed for a years now (CTTL.cz). Very precise tests with lot of measurement. It has been bought by czech retailer and closed. Just few videos on youtube remains. For example: 


      CPU is replaced with heating element and switches are for sensors


    4. PlayerX


      You're welcome.

      Yes, it definitely seems, that the area in the middle is the best cooled. However i moved the tubes up by half a millimeter (because at first i thought the simulation was not working because the gap was to small). So maybe the flow restriction of the cooler in that area could be a problem: Either your waterflow gets reduced compared to a standard cooler, or the pump has to generate a higher pressure. However otherwise to me this design approach seems to be really strong when it comes to cooling that specific area.


      I didn't even know, there was something like a watercooler-testing-lab. It's a pity that they closed it. This would have been an interesting way of testing the cooler and comparing it to the simulation.

  8. Yeah, sure. Just send me a private message.
  9. As I had some spare time and I found this quite an interesting topic, i tried to give it a shot. I did some thermal simulation with a heat source of 140W input in this circle (30mm in diameter). For water I used a water-flow of 0.025kg/s at a input-temperature of 30°C. On the left my design approach, on the right the LTT design approach. The temperature scale should be the same for both variants. First the bottom of the cooler: next the top of the copper plate: then the water-flow: 3D-water-flow with surface temps: Section with water-flow: Section with water temperatures: As I saw in this short simulation, the water-flow in the LTT design leaves a hotspot, which can also be also observed on the bottom (peak temperatures should be near 78°). For my design I also moved the grove for the o-ring to the acrylic plate. The fins can be machined with the following tool (I designed them with the use of this tool-dimensions: d1 63mm; t 1.6mm): Was a fun thing to do. Hope you find it also interesting
  10. Thanks for the advice. I've tried it now, but there were no such settings.
  11. Hello everyone, Recently I updated the driver of the integrated "HD 630" graphics card. However, since that update, at least so it seems to me, the display keeps changing the brightness and contrast based on the displayed image: -on white web pages, the brightness increases and the contrast turns to "normal" -if then a dark picture appears, (or simply a dark background - for example the desktop wallpaper or a youtube video) the brightness decreases (it seems as if the brightness is changing from something like 75% to 25%) and the contrast changes so that the image is (slightly) oversaturated. I did some research, tried some solutions, but nothing helped. I tried: -disabling adaptive brightness in the advanced energy saving options of the control panel -disabling the "display energy saving" option in the Intel graphics control panel -reinstalling the driver This "feature" is quite annoying since it's very noticeable (it takes about 2 sec until it begins to adjust brightness/contrast), so if anyone has an idea of how to solve this issue, I would be grateful. Best regards, Matthias Here some information that could be useful: CPU: i7-7700HQ GPU: Intel HD Graphics 630 Laptop: 17,3" Cosmos VI (PcSpecialist)
  12. Hello I'm looking for a new phone, since my last one (lg p880 (4x hd)) is slowly getting to its end (after not even 3 and 1/2 years). However, since I'm not so into phones and I don't know any good websites (where you can silter phones by their features), I find it difficult to choose which one to get next. Therefore I wanted to ask, if there is someone here that can help me out. Here's a list of Features I want: a price under 400€/400$ a screen that is at least 4.7" at least 16 GB of onboard storage a decent amount of ram (I know that nowadays 1GB is by far not enough. My current phone uses at least 70-80% of that without any open apps.) a good battery life decent performance WiFi (but I believe every phone nowodays has it) Bluetooth Here's a list of features I would like, but which I can forego: micro-SD expansion removable battery capacitive buttons (I like them more than the onscreen ones, but physical ones are ok too) the feature of turning the screen on and off by double-tapping the screen accelerometer & gyroscope NFC LED- (not just LED Backlit) or IPS-Display And finally the features I don't care about: infrared sensor, and all those features that aren't that usefull Insane amounts of megapixels (I don't really care about the camera as long as it takes photos of decent quality. For good photos I have a DSLR camera) more than a Full HD screen curved displays (although I doubt you find phones in this pricerange with this feature) Fast Charging I'm looking forward to your suggestions
  13. I think a 980ti has lots of power and I think it will be a beast for a while. And if you really think the 980ti isn't enough anymore when the Pascal series comes out, you can still sell the 980ti. I don't think it would be to difficult to do so with a 980ti in late 2016 or beginning of 2017 ;D
  14. consider the possibility that the TV could be set on a different input and not change automatically, although I don't think that's the problem ;D
  15. I did a short research and found some infos: - "Current rumours point to the full Pascal unveil occurring in mid-2016" - "Pascal is expected to hit the market during the first half of 2016" - "it is expected to be released within the first half of 2016" However this are all rumors... it could happen at any time (probably not in the next few days, but who knows)...