armaneo

Wish I could, but the desk is in the middle of the room.

Yeah, my concern with flipping it and mounting with the L hanging off is that, maybe these mounts are designed to offload the principal weight of the monitor+stand vertically onto the table's surface. I'm concerned the L might start to bend or even just break if it's just hovering out there.

Thanks guys. This actually sounds like the best idea here. Pictured below is a random vesa mount I found on Amazon. I could just remove the bottom bracket that has the thumb screw, and just bolt the vertical piece directly onto one of the horizontal beams of the desk (confirmed that desk is made from heavy stainless steel). My only concern is that the weight of the monitor (34" ultrawide) would cause the horizontal part of the bracket that is connected to the main rod to dip down and put pressure on the glass. I could put felt or rubber underneath it, but the pressure might still cause the glass to crack. Alternatively, I could keep the lower bracket (with thumb screw), flip it around 180 degrees, and bolt it into the table such that the vertical rod is hovering off the desk. Then I could stuff a small block of wood into the bracket and tighten with the thumbscrew, effectively removing all pressure points from the glass. Edit: I guess one (major) problem is that the entire frame has electrical cables running through it (there are power plugs in 7 different locations). Maybe this is too much work.

I have a bit of a different glass desk that has some potential for clamping a vesa mount. The entire frame of the desk (pictured below) is composed of 2" x 2" stainless steel, with a single plate of glass sitting on stand-offs about 1/8" above the steel frame. I'm wondering if I can use some kind of metal clamp, where the top of the clamp would slide between the glass and metal. Some possibly ill-conceived ideas for such clamps appear appear. Otherwise, is there any way I could clamp something onto one of the legs? I couldn't find anything like that. Desk in question: Possible clamps:

Thank you. I take it that new PCIe 4.0 mother board and storage that I listed in my original post is overkill, right?

1. Budget & Location Budget: ~$2,000 for computer only and I will set aside a few dollars for a monitor Location: Chicago, with access to a Microcenter. 2. Aim Editing video in Premiere and After Effects on a hobby basis. I'm mostly concerned with editing speed and my current setup lags like crazy when viewing the timeline when any effect/transition has been applied (unless I use proxy files for everything). Scrubbing is a nightmare. I usually create 5-10 minute videos with basic 4K footage from DJI consumer-level products (and the like) for family and friends stuff. Nothing commercial. I occasionally do some light gaming (e.g., Forza, Tombraider, etc.). Everything else is more basic, like web surfing, Netflix, Plex Server, productivity, etc. 3. Monitors To be bought: 34" 3440 x 1440 curved; not sure which brand yet (probably Dell), but I'll be most concerned with text clarity and less concerned with refresh rates Already have: 25" LG 2560 x 1080; after purchasing next monitor, I will stack this one above the primary monitor 4. Peripherals No need, other than the monitor listed above. 5. Why are you upgrading? Current build is just too slow for editing (Intel i7-4790k; 16GB RAM; Sapphire Radeon R9 285). Here is what I have been thinking about. Does this make sense, particularly using two PCIe 4.0 drives for both primary (OS and applications) and secondary (media files, cache, scratch)? I can reuse my current two 6 TB platter drives for mass storage. PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU AMD Ryzen 9 3900X 3.8 GHz 12-Core Processor $499.99 @ Best Buy CPU Cooler be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 50.5 CFM CPU Cooler $89.90 @ Amazon Motherboard MSI MPG X570 GAMING EDGE WIFI ATX AM4 Motherboard $189.99 @ B&H Memory G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory $124.99 @ Amazon Memory G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory $124.99 @ Amazon Storage Sabrent Rocket 4.0 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive $119.98 @ Amazon Storage Sabrent Rocket 4.0 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive $119.98 @ Amazon Video Card MSI GeForce RTX 2060 SUPER 8 GB ARMOR OC Video Card $399.99 @ B&H Case Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case $89.99 @ Amazon Power Supply EVGA G5 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply $89.99 @ Amazon Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total (before mail-in rebates) $1879.79 Mail-in rebates -$30.00 Total $1849.79 Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-11-17 19:50 EST-0500

I see. Strangely, I'm not trying to play any 4K content, so the HDMI 1.3 thing shouldn't be an issue. Plus, I'm using a Displayport cable now, which, in my uninformed view should avoid the HDMI 1.3 problems, right? In any event, I tried the gugu3d thing and wiped all drivers in safe mode, then installed the latest R9 200 series driver, but it still didn't work. Then I ran gugu3d again and installed the latest beta drivers. Just like before, it works, but the computer blinks/flashes every 15-30 seconds. Very frustrating. Do you know of a newer card I could purchase that could handle basic streaming, but also video editing and moderate gaming? I just have no concept of how to compare and contrast graphics cards and this card was recommended to me when I built my PC like 3 years ago.

The Radeon software has an option to perform a "clean install," which purports to completely uninstall all prior drivers. But, I'll try the gugu3d thing and see if that works. FYI, someone else told me the real issue is that it has HDMI 1.3, which has poor support for this kind of thing. But the same issues persist even when I use displayport.

Yea, I must be wrong on the HDCP support thing. I just couldn't find anything on the web that affirmatively stated it my card had HDCP support, so I assumed that was the issue (since people were saying that Youtube TV cannot stream in HD without it). So, I updated the driver to the latest "non-WQHL" beta driver, and low and behold, HD content on Youtube TV works! But, there's a side-effect. Whenever I'm streaming something on Youtube TV, my computer screen blinks every 30 seconds or so. Really frustrating. Also, on this beta driver, when I stream on Xfinitiy Live TV, it also blinks every 30 seconds (oddly, HD content always worked on Xfinity Live TV, even on the prior driver that I was on). So, I reverted back to the latest non-beta driver (a "WQUL driver," whatever that means) and, as expected, Youtube TV cannot output in HD. The blinking, however, stops, even when I'm streaming through Xfinity Live TV. No idea why this is happening. It's really frustrating.

This is really helpful. Thank you. I may just get an equivalent GPU that has HDCP support to avoid the headache. I'll take a look at the GTX 1050Ti and see if I can snag one for a reasonable price. By the way, how does one even begin to compare GPUs? Like, how do I compare my R9 285 against the GTX 1050Ti?

Hi, I have an extreme noob question. And, I have a feeling the answer is obvious, but I have no idea how to figure it out short of asking you fine folks. I'm still using my first build, which contains the following relevant parts: GPU: SAPPHIRE 100374OCL Radeon R9 285 2GB 256-Bit GDDR5 CPU: Intel i7-4790k Motherboard: ASRock ATX FATAL1TY Z97 KILLER I recently decided to cut the cable-tv cord and try using various streaming services, including Youtube TV. When watching Youtube TV on my computer, it couldn't get HD to play and, after researching it, I learned it's because my GPU doesn't have HDCP support. So, I plugged my monitor (via HDMI cable) into the onboard HDMI port on the motherboard, and everything has been dandy. My question: If the most graphics intensive things I will be doing on my computer is basic video editing (Adobe Premier Elements 15) and watching/streaming 4K video, is there any reason I need to even utilize my GPU? In other words, if I'm not gaming or streaming myself, is there a use case for me for the GPU? Follow-up question: Can I plug my monitor into both the onboard graphics (via HDMI) and into the GPU (via displayport) and then switch on the fly based on my needs?

That's the only 1150 i7 Microcenter is offering. When you say "you'll need a cooler," do you mean something more substantial than the Noctua small fan cooler I have? ( Noctua Low-Profile Quiet CPU Cooler for Intel 115x Based Retail Cooling NH-L9I )

I've been using a modest first build for a little while and I'm trying to upgrade my CPU. I'd appreciate some guidance on which is the better option between the two Options identified below: Current build: Motherboard: ASRock H97M-ITX/AC Mini ITX LGA1150 CPU: Intel Core i3-4370 3.8GHz Dual-Core Processor GPU: Sapphire R9 285 OC Edition Memory: Crucial 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 PSU: Corsair CX 500W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX SSD: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 120GB 2.5" HDD: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM HDD: Western Digital Green 640 GB 3.5" 7200RPM Option 1: Upgrade CPU to Intel Core i7 4790K (Haswell), which is $269 at Microcenter. Option 2: Upgrade mobo to LGA 1151, e.g., Gigabyte GA-H110N LGA 1151, which is $45. Upgrade CPU to Intel Core i5 6500 (Skylake), which is $179.

All, as I mentioned in my OP about 1.5 years ago, I built my first PC with fairly entry level specs. To increase the snappiness of the computer--especially in light of my basic computing needs--everyone's unanimous recommendation was to get another 4GB of ram to make things feel a little zippier. It made a good difference. I'm getting an itch again, and I'm wanting more speed (within reason, i.e., keeping same case and probably same mobo). Yesterday, I was offloading pictures from a digital camera while simultaneously playing a locally stored 1080p video (offloaded from same camera months prior), and the video (on VLC) was glitching and stuttering like crazy. When the transfer was done, the video played just fine. Other things seem slower than they should. For example, thumbnail loading on large picture and video folders and opening certain applications, etc. What should I upgrade next? I read that going from 8GB to 16GB ram won't make much of a difference for my needs. What about processor? Should I go to i5 or i7 (both are within budget). Motherboard: ASRock H97M-ITX/AC Mini ITX LGA1150 CPU: Intel Core i3-4370 3.8GHz Dual-Core Processor GPU: Sapphire R9 285 OC Edition Memory: Crucial 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 PSU: Corsair CX 500W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX SSD: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 120GB 2.5" HDD: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM HDD: Western Digital Green 640 GB 3.5" 7200RPM

I would highly recommend playing with the mouse some more. The fwd/back keys are very poorly placed (they are stacked diagonally on top of one another), and also placed back towards your wrist. This causes two issues: (1) hitting the desired key is more difficult because they are stacked on top of each other, and (2) you have to curl your thumb much further back to reach the keys. I'm also having issues with the side scroll. It's only about 60% responsive.

Sorry if this isn't the appropriate place to post this. Logitech's so-called "forums" are garbage. * * * I bought the Logitech MX Master after hearing about them on one of the LTT videos. I needed a solid office mouse that was as good as my primary mouse, namely, the greatest of all time (for non-gaming) the MX Revolution, which I've been using forever. Unfortunately, the Master doesn't hold a candle to the Revolution. No charging cradle, no spring back side wheel, no side wheel click, no lateral click on primary wheel, absolute shit fwd/back buttons, etc. But I digress. The real issue: Is anyone experiencing intermittent responsiveness with the side scroll wheel? I have it set to volume up and down, but it only works about 60% of the time. For example, when I'm watching YouTube in Chrome, 40% of the time that I scroll the side wheel, nothing happens. But, if I bring the mouse pointer outside of the Chrome window, it will immediately start working. Other mice, including the Revolution, have no such issues. Any idea why this is happening? Is it possible that the mouse is defective?

I'm pretty green when it comes to networking and, as I research for a new router, I'm really scratching my head at what device to get. Assuming I have only modest needs (i.e., surfing, Android TV, Netflix (4k), Chromecast, and Apple TV), modest internet speeds (Comcast 75 Mbps down), do not share files within network frequently, have anywhere from 2-4 connected users at any given time, and probably 15 connected devices (2 laptops, 2 tablets, 2 phones, 3 Nest products, Alexa, Apple TV, Chromecast, Android TV, 2 IP cams), how do I quantify the difference between a product like the ASUS AC1900 and the ASUS AC3100, particularly in terms of range and speed (for my use case). Obviously the AC3100 has a lot more features, but does it materially affect range and speed? ASUS AC1900: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FB45SI4/ref=twister_B01IGEC3QA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 ASUS AC3100: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FB45SI4/ref=twister_B01IGEC3QA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Looks badass. Never jumped into projectors because of the cost, but this would be jumping straight into the deep end. * Also, love how LG likely insisted that it go from the Canadian "pro-ject" to the less-Canadian "praw-ject."

I don't know where else to turn to. I've spent so much goddamn time trying to figure this out, but I just don't know enough to do enough. Problem: During any usage, whether it is word processing, surfing, video editing, or looking at photos, I get random lag spikes where the mouse will stutter, lag, or just freeze altogether for 2-5 seconds bursts -- and then it's gone. Happens about once every 15-30 minutes, but sometimes (like right now), it happens every 5 minutes. I can't really figure out when this started, but I never had it when I was on Windows 8, which was over six months ago. Specs: OS: Windows 10 (upgrade from Windows 8) Motherboard: ASRock H97M-ITX/AC Mini ITX LGA1150 CPU: Intel Core i3-4370 3.8GHz Dual-Core Processor GPU: Sapphire R9 285 OC Edition Memory: Crucial 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 PSU: Corsair CX 500W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX SSD: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 120GB 2.5" HDD: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM HDD: Western Digital Green 640 GB 3.5" 7200RPM Network: LAN connection to ASUS RTN66U router. What I've done thus far: Moved wireless mouse receiver closer (within 1 foot with no obstructions). Tried a different cordless mouse. Tried a corded mouse. Tried plugging mouse into different USB port. Removed all non-essential peripherals, like external hard drives and speakers. Exited Malwarebytes. Fully uninstalled and removed Malwarebytes and reinstalled. Put all mouse drivers into compatibility mode to Windows 8. Removed Realtek HD audio driver. Removed ALL audio drivers. Disabled Cortana. Uninstalled Samsung Magician. Updated Chrome from 32 to beta 64. Monitored memory usage in Task Manager. Only notable things are that Malwarebytes which hovers around 175MB and Chrome, which (as we speak) has about 15 instances, totaling about 1GB. Total memory usage hovers around 42%. Updating graphics card drivers. Downloaded AsRock software and reflashed/updated all BIOS related matters. Made absolutely sure my computer is cool and not overheating. Ran Windows Performance Monitor, which I admittedly don't know how to use, and which shows no spikes of any kind when I encounter lag. I'm ready to blow this thing up. I'll do whatever it takes to get this to go away. It's driving me mad. What should I do? Buy a new motherboard, upgrade processor, get more ram? Nuke the OS and do a clean install? Just smash the computer and start fresh? Can I run some monitoring software and figure out what the F is causing all this?

Username: armaneo Two video links: https://www.vessel.com/videos/P7U9FOT4G https://www.vessel.com/videos/DkWN4qqW1

Cool story bro.

I'm lazy and don't plan on talking to Amazon until I need to; maybe in 2035.

I contacted them precisely because of the confusion concerning the lifetime warranty license issue. I used their procedures on their website to contact them. Here's what I wrote: *** Hi everyone, thanks for the great software. Back in February of this year, I purchased a lifetime license for the Anti-Malware on Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T1GXL0K/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00T1GXL0K&linkCode=as2&tag=o001b-20&linkId=NUKVOFAJVLEFHCJ6).There is no indication on the product description how many PCs this license is good for. And to confuse matters, half the users in the reviews and Q&A are saying it's only good for 1 and half say it's good for 2 or sometimes 3. Could you help set this straight? I'm really confused.

I'm sure if push came to shove Amazon would sort this out, but I just heard some troubling news from MalwareBytes CSR: Welcome to Malwarebytes support, my name is Kristine Le and I’ll be assisting you today. Amazon is NOT an authorized reseller and thus we cannot guarantee validity or speak to the authenticity of product bought from sites such as Amazon or eBay. Malwarebytes does not currently offer lifetime licenses…we offer Premium right now which is a yearly subscription that can cover 3 PCs. Before 2014, we used to offer Pro which was a lifetime license good for 1 PC. However, Since you purchased from Amazon, I really cannot speak to what you actually bought since I do not have a record of items sold from Amazon. Thanks, Kristine

Hi everyone. I recently built my first PC, and I'm left wanting more. I kept things really tame because I didn't want to splurge on my first build, but in retrospect, I think I was too conservative. Anyway, I use the computer mostly for web browsing, MS office products, Citrix, and light photo editing. The computer handles that fine, but I want it to be lightning fast in those simple day-to-day tasks. In that regard, which of the components should I upgrade to see the most performance increase, ram or CPU? Motherboard: ASRock H97M-ITX/AC Mini ITX LGA1150 CPU: Intel Core i3-4370 3.8GHz Dual-Core Processor GPU: Sapphire R9 285 OC Edition Memory: Crucial 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 PSU: Corsair CX 500W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX SSD: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 120GB 2.5" HDD: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM HDD: Western Digital Green 640 GB 3.5" 7200RPM