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Lutkeveld

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  1. Like
    Lutkeveld got a reaction from da na in Experiences with non-techies   
    Listening to a conversation of two girls about how handy battery packs are:
    'Yeah, I have one'
    'Oh really, how many times does it charge your phone'
    'USB is 5v and mobiles are like 1.3v or something so around 4 times'
    'Nice'
     
    :blink:
  2. Like
    Lutkeveld got a reaction from marten.aap2.0 in Experiences with non-techies   
    Listening to a conversation of two girls about how handy battery packs are:
    'Yeah, I have one'
    'Oh really, how many times does it charge your phone'
    'USB is 5v and mobiles are like 1.3v or something so around 4 times'
    'Nice'
     
    :blink:
  3. Like
    Lutkeveld got a reaction from SSL in Please teach me how to pick a suitable amplifier to drive my bookshelf speakers   
    Sorry to say, but you're quite misinformed for a sound tech.
     
    'a certain amount of power to move the speakers properly' doesn't exist.
    Quality won't suffer with a smaller amp, only max output will
    Matching output also isn't really a thing. It's not like a 50W amp is a perfect fit for a 50W speaker.
     
    I'm of course open to corrections
  4. Agree
    Lutkeveld got a reaction from Stagea in Making a subwoofer?   
    Once in a blue moon. Quoting is indeed the best way to get my attention
     
    OT:
    -Read up on Thiele Small Parameters
    -Search for a high quality driver (Dayton, Tangband, Eminence) with the parameter set you need
    -Model the driver in WinISD/Unibox
    -Design a box with appropriate wall thickness/bracing
    -Look how much the driver can handle mechanically and choose an amplifier based on that
    -Set SSF if your enclosure is ported, set LPF and gain to integrate with your main speakers
    -???
    -Profit
  5. Like
    Lutkeveld got a reaction from rhyseyness in Making a subwoofer?   
    Once in a blue moon. Quoting is indeed the best way to get my attention
     
    OT:
    -Read up on Thiele Small Parameters
    -Search for a high quality driver (Dayton, Tangband, Eminence) with the parameter set you need
    -Model the driver in WinISD/Unibox
    -Design a box with appropriate wall thickness/bracing
    -Look how much the driver can handle mechanically and choose an amplifier based on that
    -Set SSF if your enclosure is ported, set LPF and gain to integrate with your main speakers
    -???
    -Profit
  6. Like
    Lutkeveld got a reaction from UnlimitedTMD in Making a subwoofer?   
    Once in a blue moon. Quoting is indeed the best way to get my attention
     
    OT:
    -Read up on Thiele Small Parameters
    -Search for a high quality driver (Dayton, Tangband, Eminence) with the parameter set you need
    -Model the driver in WinISD/Unibox
    -Design a box with appropriate wall thickness/bracing
    -Look how much the driver can handle mechanically and choose an amplifier based on that
    -Set SSF if your enclosure is ported, set LPF and gain to integrate with your main speakers
    -???
    -Profit
  7. Like
    Lutkeveld got a reaction from spwath in Making a subwoofer?   
    Once in a blue moon. Quoting is indeed the best way to get my attention
     
    OT:
    -Read up on Thiele Small Parameters
    -Search for a high quality driver (Dayton, Tangband, Eminence) with the parameter set you need
    -Model the driver in WinISD/Unibox
    -Design a box with appropriate wall thickness/bracing
    -Look how much the driver can handle mechanically and choose an amplifier based on that
    -Set SSF if your enclosure is ported, set LPF and gain to integrate with your main speakers
    -???
    -Profit
  8. Like
    Lutkeveld got a reaction from SSL in Making a subwoofer?   
    Once in a blue moon. Quoting is indeed the best way to get my attention
     
    OT:
    -Read up on Thiele Small Parameters
    -Search for a high quality driver (Dayton, Tangband, Eminence) with the parameter set you need
    -Model the driver in WinISD/Unibox
    -Design a box with appropriate wall thickness/bracing
    -Look how much the driver can handle mechanically and choose an amplifier based on that
    -Set SSF if your enclosure is ported, set LPF and gain to integrate with your main speakers
    -???
    -Profit
  9. Like
    Lutkeveld got a reaction from SSL in Budget stereo speaker amp   
    No they don't. They have a thermal limit of 25-100W.
     
    But anyway. Just pick an amplifier from a respectable brand with the features you need. It's not like you're going to notice the difference in sound quality between two high-end amps anyway.
  10. Agree
    Lutkeveld got a reaction from SSL in Speaker damage/degradation from sudden & short relatively high volume?   
    Oh wow, I don't even know where to start here.
    It's cool to see some actual technical knowledge on this forum, but a lot of it is applied wrong.
     
    Clipping is harmful for speakers because it decreases the crest factor of the output (music) and produces harmonic content, which can stress the tweeter.
     
    A speaker is far from an ideal coil. It has a high DCR (2-8ohms). There is no "DC" in a clipped signal, it's high frequency content (-> fourier). 
     
    The output often isn't saturated when clipping, it just reaches the max of the available voltage (rail).
     
    I'm always open to discussion of course.
  11. Agree
    Lutkeveld got a reaction from rhyseyness in Car Subwoofers   
    In the same setup more watts equal more volume. The actual volume (SPL) is determined by a lot more than just watts (mainly the sub itself and the environment). SPL only indicates how loud something is, it has nothing to do with audio quality. A different impedance (2 vs 4 ohms)  only affects how much current will flow at a certain voltage. If your amplifier can handle it, it will have double the output at half the impedance.
  12. Funny
    Lutkeveld reacted to 0ld_Chicken in Why isn't there a headphone company founded and based in Finland ?   
    Lots of folks have started, but the problem is.... they can't Finnish 
     
     sorry, that was really bad
     
     
  13. Like
    Lutkeveld reacted to Enderman in Single driver speakers, do they make a valid point?   
    crossovers take one signal and split it into two, one high frequency and one low frequency
    they do not combine anything
     
    if the speaker is built correctly it will have a good waveguide to prevent the high frequencies from being extremely directional
     
    and no, I highly doubt any human can hear the difference between the tweeter being 3cm high vs 6cm high
    the human ear is far from accurate enough to hear that
    a bat maybe, but not a human
  14. Agree
    Lutkeveld got a reaction from bob345 in Single driver speakers, do they make a valid point?   
    Crossovers do change the signal a lot. Its point is to combine the two acoustic outputs into one with a straight frequency response.
    A couple of centimeter can change a lot, especially at higher frequencies (smaller wavelength). Mainly with regards to combing, lobing and diffraction.
    A couple cm offset can fuck up your whole crossover. How much you'd care would be another story...
    In most cases the advantages of a two-way outweigh the advantages of a single-source system.
  15. Agree
    Lutkeveld reacted to TheAudiophile in Single driver speakers, do they make a valid point?   
    There is some truth to the single-driver community's love of no crossover parts in the signal path. However, the idea of one driver covering the entire frequency spectrum is one that is rife with problems.
     
    The pieces of knowledge that you can take with you from them are as follows: Yes, do remove all you can from the path between the speaker driver and amplifier. Secondly, point sources (single driver, concentric drivers) are an excellent way of maintaining phase coherence, but they also come with their own set of compromises. In total, use active crossovers on a multi-way system, and you can acheive the ideal of no components between the driver and amplifier with none of the drawbacks.
     
    However, I do find that most of the drivers the fullrange community likes make some of the BEST midrange drivers in a 3+ way system. Really, all serious audio systems should start with active crossovers and at least a 3-way design. Good sound can of course be achieved with a 2-way system, but 3-way is where a good stereo starts IMO.
  16. Agree
    Lutkeveld got a reaction from SSL in Single driver speakers, do they make a valid point?   
    Crossovers do change the signal a lot. Its point is to combine the two acoustic outputs into one with a straight frequency response.
    A couple of centimeter can change a lot, especially at higher frequencies (smaller wavelength). Mainly with regards to combing, lobing and diffraction.
    A couple cm offset can fuck up your whole crossover. How much you'd care would be another story...
    In most cases the advantages of a two-way outweigh the advantages of a single-source system.
  17. Agree
    Lutkeveld reacted to Unhelpful in Why do people give FLAC...Flack?   
    Yeah... This example is apples to oranges. Or eaten and shit-out apple to apple.
  18. Agree
    Lutkeveld reacted to SSL in Why do some earphones not have freq range of up to 20khz?   
    Frequency range specs are useless, so I wouldn't read too much into the numbers. Most of the time, frequency range specs are used to enforce prestige pricing; i.e. a manufacturer wants to differentiate SKUs in a product line.
     
    Because differences in audio gear is often very hard to objectively define, this leaves the marketing department of a company with few options but to basically pull specs out of their asses. Normally this means rounding the numbers up so that more expensive products look worth the money; but it can also mean making less expensive products look worse so that the more profitable ones look more attractive.
     
    In the even that a headphone actually only goes up to 16-18kHz, this could just be a side effect of using cheap parts to hit a price point. The extremes of the audible spectrum are the hardest to reproduce, so they are often the first to go in a low quality product. It could also be an intentional compromise, designed to avoid distortion due to driver break-up that would sound even worse than a simple roll-off. As others have pointed out, the music that most people listen to has been degraded by lossy compression schemes that discard the high frequencies anyway.
  19. Like
    Lutkeveld got a reaction from Ex0Thermic in Desktop speaker amp?   
    Okay.... What was the point of this topic then?
  20. Like
    Lutkeveld got a reaction from Syntaxvgm in Cheap car speakers   
    Get the cheapest JBL or Pioneer offering
  21. Like
    Lutkeveld got a reaction from SSL in Subs   
    In reality it's barely audible. It's cool for bragging rights though...
     
    OP, what kind of install are you going after? Cheap, sound quality, loud, small etc..... What are your requirements
  22. Like
    Lutkeveld got a reaction from Andrew Storlie in How do I buy pre-assembled crossover   
    I'd recommend:
    -If you want to learn: buy cheap stuff and mess around to see how things work. Also: read a lot.
    -If you want good sound quality: build an existing design like the Overnight Sensations
  23. Like
    Lutkeveld reacted to Rmusic10891 in How Good Are These Speakers   
    so.... OP should go from not knowing the difference between passive and active speakers to building his own all in one shot? Seems reasonable.
  24. Like
    Lutkeveld reacted to spwath in How Good Are These Speakers   
    Its irrelevant.They are fine speakers, not bad, not amazing. Listen to @JohnT
  25. Like
    Lutkeveld reacted to SSL in How Good Are These Speakers   
    It basically means nothing.
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