Phalonx

Yes. It will read the RPM only. This is why there is only one such wire between the two - otherwise you get two readings on one input. In order to control the fan speed digitally you'll need a four wire fan - the fourth wire would be PWM and is used to control the speed.

So many giveaways!

Giveaway! Could always use another phone :)

If you're looking for future proof-ness, you'd be better off looking at an AMD solution. AMD tends to re-use their sockets for several generations (I believe we're at AM3 right now) as opposed to Intel, which changes up their sockets seemingly every generation. And as with any computing purchase, if you need it now, then buy it now, there's no sense continuously waiting for the next best thing.

You may need to do some work with a dremel to cut out a notch in the socket so that the unused part of the x16 connector can fit but there shouldn't be a problem with putting it in a x1 slot. Be sure to plug your monitor into your primary graphics card though (the x16 socket one), because some BIOSes will not recognize a video card in the x1 slot as the primary display card.

Can you clarify some of the procedures you've been following? Just having a bit of trouble trying to understand what's going on... When you say adjusting the clocks, are you talking about the actual clocks themselves (e.g. base clock, PCIE clock) or the individual clock multipliers? What particular voltage settings are you adjusting when you try to overclock? For the CPU, are you trying to do a turbo overclock (i.e., overclock only when under load to save power) or a full-on overclock (maximum power draw all the time)? Just for information, what processor are you using, what what is your target for overclocking? What is your experience at overclocking, and have you overclocked on Sandy/Ivy bridge before? As mentioned earlier, from what I understand most people don't manually adjust voltages when overclocking unless they are super experienced or aiming for a very high OC...

What resolution are you running it at? 60 fps doesn't mean very much if it's at 1024x768...

Need more information first... How much money do you have? What kind of graphic design programs do you use? How intensive is your work (e.g., 2D,3D, Photoshop, After Effects, Maya, etc.)? What are the specs of the rest of your computer?

Intel datasheet states that the maximum operating temperature is 105 C so you're still OK, given that you have the stock cooler. I wouldn't be worried about the lifespan of the CPU, given that you intend to get an aftermarket cooler soon, and most likely you'll replace your CPU long before you start seeing the effects of thermal degradation. If you're really concerned though, you should probably remove the overclock (not a good idea on stock cooler anyways).

I wonder how they deal with the timing issues on that sort of cable, since all the wires are of different length ... maybe the wire with the tighest radius has a bit extra bunched up inside or something.

At the $200 price point, the 660 non-ti is the best you can get in terms of NVIDIA cards. Can't see any fault with your reasoning. However, if you were to grab an AMD card, you would be able to take advantage of their current promotion, the "Never Settle" one where you get three AAA games bundled with your card. The 7850/7870 would be good in this price range. It's really up to you though, either is fine.

For me, there is no discernable latency when my 2500K switches between 1600 MHz and 4400 MHz. The undervolting is certainly a great reason to just raise the boost frequency rather than keeping it at full frequency all the time - reduce temps and wear on the CPU when it is not in use.

Download CPUZ (link here). The memory tab will indicate if it is dual channel or not, see screenshot below:

You answered it yourself, if you can wait then you should wait. If you need the power now (for whatever it is you are doing), then get it. In terms of features I think the most you're going to see is a slight CPU performance boost clock per clock, similar to how the regular Ivy Bridge compared to Sandy. If I may also ask, why exactly do you need a consumer grade processor of that caliber?

A 3.5" external gets you more space per dollar - however, they often require you to carry either a Y-USB cable for the extra power, or a separate power supply. They are also not very fun to try and slip into a backpack or similar. A 2.5" external is slightly more expensive, but often times doesn't require an independent power supply and is much easier to transport (they are many times lighter and smaller). So basically if you're planning on leaving it in one spot, then get a 3.5". If you want to carry it around with you, you'd be much better off with a 2.5"