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SPG

Member
  • Content Count

    680
  • Joined

  • Last visited

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2 Followers

About SPG

  • Title
    Nintendo and PC Enthusiast
  • Birthday 1996-11-01

Contact Methods

  • Steam
    http://steamcommunity.com/id/Pyroblock-SPG/
  • Twitter
    https://twitter.com/PyroBlock

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Pc and anything nintendo all the way.

System

  • CPU
    I7-6850k
  • Motherboard
    MSI X99A Gaming Pro Carbbon
  • RAM
    32GB Corsair Vengeance
  • GPU
    2x R9 280x Sapphire
  • Case
    Caselabs Mercury S8
  • Storage
    500GB Samsung 850 Evo/2tb WB Black
  • PSU
    SeaSonic X 1250W 80+ Gold
  • Display(s)
    LG 34UM88-P 34"
  • Keyboard
    2013 Razer Black widow Cherry MX blue
  • Mouse
    Cooler Master Recon
  • Sound
    Logitech Z906 5.1
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro
  • PCPartPicker URL

Recent Profile Visitors

1,153 profile views
  1. Alright, so this is a new issue, and I have had this set up for a few years now. Recently my water pump in my computer was dying so finally having a free weekend I drained it, replaced the pump and refilled my loop. Water didn't get anywhere from my knowledge, did extensive leak testing and I didn't kill anything....I think. I plug everything in, everything works great, I configure my logitech speakers to make sure they're all coming out of the right channels. and they are. So we're all good. Watch some youtube videos, and a movie everything was fine. Then I got on a call in discord. My mic wasn't working so I think I didn't plug it back in, I did, but I (thought) I unplugged it and plugged it back in, light as still off. So I unplugged it directly from the mic and fixed it, we're all good to go. Now, you may be asking yourself, why did I mention any of that? seems like pretty useless info. Well, The thing I thought was my mic was actually my capture card and that disconnects one of my displays, which windows does not typically enjoy...at least it's not elegant about it. From that point my center channel and rear speakers just stopped working, sort of. Audio only came out of the front two. This was annoying, but I made sure all the aux cables were seated correctly in both my sub and my PC. I opened up Realtek HD Audio Manager and it clearly sees all aux cables plugged in. even put them in different locations to see if it would allowed me to change what the output was (it wouldn't there are 3 very specific spots it wanted me to do it, orange and black) I used another aux cable entirely, unplugged my "broken" speakers and plugged in to the front two channels to verify they work and didn't all mysteriously die at the same time. I completely uninstalled every audio driver my computer has, rebooted and tried using the default microsoft driver, uninstalled that and made sure I had the newest version of the realtek driver for my motherboard (I have a msi x99 gaming pro carbon) That did nothing, I uninstalled my capture card software/drivers/unplugged it thinking that may have screwed with something, that...did jack. I unplugged EVERYTHING from my computer excluding keyboard, mouse, and speakers...nothing. The only thing I have done so far to make everything "work" is in the realtek software,[ you can disable speakers](https://i.gyazo.com/4a82e1b20072afb4c1c879575ab4fcb7.png). When I do this for my center, sub and rear, and do an audio test they work (sort of) I hear audio out of those speakers, but audio also plays out of the two front pair as well...it doesn't make any sense what so ever (the subwoofer doesn't work at all though) This tells me this is a software issue though, not hardware my next course of action was to just reinstall windows...but I would like to avoid that because that's a day's work all in itself....though it would finally give me the excuse to get an M.2 Drive I guess. Side note, I tried plugging in a s/pdif cable and that didn't do anything but I have no idea if they worked prior or not PC Specs motherboard: x99 MSI Gaming Pro Carbon CPU: 6850k GPU 2x Vega 64 Ram 32gb @ 3000mhz speakers: Logitech z906
  2. Hello everyone! I'm putting together a machine for my uncle to purely play VR games, nothing else. I've put together 2 lists, an AMD system with a 1070ti, and an intel system with a 1070 My budget was around 2k and I've exceeded that a little bit, I plan on overclocking the CPU and GPU for him as I know he won't be able to do that himself. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant Type Item Price CPU Intel - Core i5-8600K 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor $259.79 @ OutletPC CPU Cooler Noctua - NH-U12S 55 CFM CPU Cooler $57.99 @ Amazon Motherboard MSI - Z370-A PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard $104.17 @ Amazon Memory G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory $109.99 @ Newegg Storage Samsung - 860 Evo 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive $72.00 @ Amazon Storage Seagate - Barracuda 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $58.89 @ OutletPC Video Card Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1070 8 GB Windforce OC Video Card $314.99 @ Newegg Case Fractal Design - Define R5 Blackout Edition ATX Mid Tower Case $121.52 @ Newegg Power Supply SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Gold 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply $63.50 @ Newegg Other HTC VIVE - Virtual Reality System $499.00 @ Amazon Other HTC Vive Deluxe Audio Strap $99.00 @ B&H Other Vive Wireless Adapter - PC $299.00 @ B&H Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total (before mail-in rebates) $2099.84 Mail-in rebates -$40.00 Total $2059.84 Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-12-14 15:47 EST-0500 PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant Type Item Price CPU AMD - Ryzen 5 2600X 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor $199.99 @ Amazon Motherboard Asus - STRIX B350-F GAMING ATX AM4 Motherboard $115.53 @ OutletPC Memory G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory $109.99 @ Newegg Storage Samsung - 860 Evo 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive $72.00 @ Amazon Storage Seagate - Barracuda 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $58.89 @ OutletPC Video Card MSI - GeForce GTX 1070 Ti 8 GB Titanium Video Card $399.99 @ Newegg Case Fractal Design - Define R5 Blackout Edition ATX Mid Tower Case $121.52 @ Newegg Power Supply SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Gold 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply $63.50 @ Newegg Other HTC VIVE - Virtual Reality System $499.00 @ Amazon Other HTC Vive Deluxe Audio Strap $99.00 @ B&H Other Vive Wireless Adapter - PC $299.00 @ B&H Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total (before mail-in rebates) $2108.41 Mail-in rebates -$70.00 Total $2038.41 Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-12-14 15:47 EST-0500 My only concern is the CPU really, a lot of people say to get an i7, that would be cool and all, but that's an extra $100+ on top of the money what I'm already over. The case is subjective, can easily get something cheaper, that is more fo place holder to be honest. Does intel perform much better for the 1070 to be worth it compared to the 1070ti? from my understanding I can get 1080 levels of performance if I overclock just a little.
  3. well, those last two things won't happen....unless they put it in the dock itself. As for the main question, I'd only buy it if it had some special design like the various 3DS' I own. Other than that...storage isn't too big of an issue for me.
  4. I have an AMD GPU so freesync already benefits me
  5. https://www.amazon.com/LG-32UD99-W-32-Inch-UHD-Monitor/dp/B06XDY3TXW Is this any good? I couldn't find anything about latency
  6. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014F4HYKK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A36PN40E750046&psc=1 I found this, so I could probably get a fairly decent monitor, especially since those will have much better picture and have far lower latency than a TV. Looks like it's a TN panel so won't the picture be subpar? I also couldn't find anything on latency.
  7. I only mentioned monitor if it had optical lol Either way, I've never heard of a flad panel, is that relatively new? or just very uncommon
  8. I need optical output for my sound system, and I know I'd need a tv If you read my post you'd know this lol
  9. Doesn't seem to have an optical output for audio I won't be buying that
  10. So normally this would be pretty easy for me to figure out. Find something with low latency, and picture and call it a day....but I have a list of requirements and I think I'll have to make a compromise due to my unrealistic needs Right now I have two monitors, a 34" ultra wide LG, and some TV with a brand I've never even heard of. Gets the job done but input lag is terrible when I play console games(even worse when I play retro games through the framemister) So I'm looking for a Good TV/monitor around 37" (so it's similar length to my monitor) with low latency, good picture, and an optical audio output so I can plug it into my surround system for my consoles and such. It also needs at least two inputs, one of them being HDMI for my consoles, other hopefully being another HDMI or Display port Due to all my requirements, I think I won't be able to find a monitor that fits this, will probably only be able to get a TV I don't really have a budget, just looking at all my options and getting suggestions. Not really sure if I want a 4k or 1080p, 4k would cost more but also allow for "future proofing" none of my consoles output at 4k, and when they do 5 years down the line I probably won't care. This will not be using as a gaming display for my PC so 60hz is 100% ok, my ultra wide is what will always be used for games since it's my main display. Any help would be apperciated Some suggested this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZFKFI9/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=dislag-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B01MZFKFI9&linkId=7d436e1928acd16a9f1bcdc12c3f29c1 but it's a tad large for my needs....but I guess it would work better in terms of software when you load up the displays in windows if that makes any sense. Here is what my set up looks like to get a better idea of why I'm needing this it's not this messy anymore I promise (I don't actually live in this house anymore actually setting up the new home which is why I want to buy a new display)
  11. I've been looking at mionix mice and they seem pretty great. what's wrong with the 8000 model?
  12. It's VERY rare I use my left hand, only really do it when I'm holding the kid with my right arm and I want to browse reddit.
  13. Games: Single player adventure/FPS games (Tomb Raider, Witcher, Watch dogs, etc) Hand Preference: Right, occasionally use the left sometimes, but rarely Budget: anything under $100 Hand Size: 15.5cm x 8.2cm Grip: Fingertip https://i.gyazo.com/78307a58a4d48db681ff1913e8b5efff.jpghttps://i.gyazo.com/1cd955715feb03fd7f77f2d7c027e920.jpg Weight: old mouse was around 120g not sure if that's considered light or not for a mouse Sensitivity: High Additional Details: Must have at least 2 buttons on the side since I remap them in games for melee and push to talk on discord must also be able to make the LEDs green (no razer mice, they're garbage I also lift my mouse a lot so very low lift off distance Wired mice only, don't have time for that charging nonsense This is my old mouse, the buttons don't hold when I click down half the time
  14. actually the nyko dock has been bricking systems far before the 5.0 update sooooo this is false
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