tmlhalo

Anywhere between 1400 to 2400. Top down RTS games (Total War games) are usually the 2000-2400 ones since I need to pan around the map more than precise clicks. 1400- 2000 are generally precision shooters.

1) Make sure your Java is up to date and the 64 bit version. 2) Allocate more RAM to Java / Minecraft to make the texture packs easier to run. http://www.wikihow.com/Allocate-More-RAM-to-Minecraft

Everything looks right by the charts. Access times are low. Transfer rate is sitting above 200 MB/s for the SSDs. As you can see in your 2.5 5400 rpm WD 640 GB drive it doesn't have those extreme dips like the WD Black^2 did. Some part of that Black^2 was defective. Glad to hear the SW KOTOR tests turned out good. If you have any free roam open world games they usually are the most demanding for dynamically loading parts of the map. Though 99.99999% positive the issue is fixed.

I have no experience with that case so no idea how the above build I linked will go as far as building inside of it.

Do any devices get more than 60?

This is what I came up with. Intel graphics should be fine for those games at 720p medium. Since it is mainly an FTP server i don't see any reason to go all out. Though since it is on 24/7 I figured it being power efficient would be useful. The only fan in this build is the Intel stock cooler as far as I can tell. The power supply doesn't even have one since it is a power brick. I went with a 240 GB SSD since it has no moving parts but I don't know how much space you need. I would just hook an external hard drive to it. http://pcpartpicker.com/p/nZpB99

WD just because I like the WD Blue 3.5 7200 1 TB and WD Black 3.5 7200 1 TB drives but after 2 TBs they ask too much money in my opinion. Usually go with Seagate then. Sapphire, don't care for XFX's cooler design. Intel, the FX 8150 and A8 6600k were both meh for the price and I just ended up upgrading them sooner. Don't care for GPU, I switch to whoever has the better product. Not impressed with Maxwell so I'm leaning towards AMD next cycle. Micro ATX because I prefer larger systems. ^ Neither. In most hobbies old items are collectible, in computers it just means you have a device that is slower and capable of less. Liquid, like the look of rads. ^ Car.

I would check how many bars your devices say they are getting upstairs first. If it is 3 or 4 flickering on 3 bars you might need a stronger dBi antenna for the router (if it has external antennas).

Glad to hear you got it working. How are the games running? Issues are gone?

Grats OP

On the side note if you do have 300 Mbps internet then while downloading a Steam game should be hitting ~37.5 MBps. 8 bits in a byte. ISPs sell by the bit. Divide by 8 to see what your expected megabyte per second speed would be.

I was about to type check Intel Rapid Storage but caught myself. Just woke up. Check the SATA utility for your motherboard. Number 4 here: http://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/Fatal1ty%20990FX%20Killer/?cat=Download&os=Win8a64 Here is the motherboard manual for using the RAID utility, page 19 on 2.7, ftp://66.226.78.21/manual/raid/Fatal1ty%20990FX%20Killer/English.pdf I would skim through it to see if you missed anything. Ignore the stuff about installing Windows onto the array and loading the driver while in installation.

No, you wont have to reinstall the os.

Forgive me if I miss something from earlier. I skimmed through all the comments for the jest. It sounds like the powerline Ethernet is not working out because of the age / type of wiring the house has. You said your current WiFi even on a shitty router seems better than the powerline Ethernet? Even though 802.11 g is 54 Mbps usually you never get max wireless bandwidth. So there is a good chance your 50/50 Mbps internet is getting throttled by the router. So a newer router could: A: Give you more coverage depending on the range of the antennas for the model you buy. B: Allow you to use the full 50 / 50 bandwidth your ISP provides. C: Stop the issues you are currently experiencing if it is the powerline Ethernet that is causing them. Does the WiFi not reach your room or you wanted to try a wired connection? (for the reason you went with powerline Ethernet in the first place)

You can have more than one router. Which is what the rest of the post explained.

Just felt like I should mention this. Just because your ISP gave you a router doesn't mean you are stuck with that one. My ISP gave me one of those shitty modem router combos. I picked up a new router (Asus RT-N66U) and plugged the ethernet in port to one of the out ports on the original router. I then set the original router to DMZplus for the 2nd router so all traffic gets directed to the Asus. I turned off the wireless on the old and now I have the Asus acting as my access point. The original is 192.168.1.254 while the Asus is 192.168.2.1. It also doesn't effect ping enough to matter. Running tests between a machine on the original to machines on the Asus is 0-1 ms ping.

Edited. Was from a while ago when I was shopping for a hard drive but looks like they are all 3 year now from WD's site.

WD color chart Green: usually 5400rpm, slower, draw the least power Red: servers, meant for 24 hour use Black: performance line, usually 7200 rpm or higher, longer ~5 year warranty, usually most expensive Blue: general consumer ~ 3 year warranty Purple: security cameras They also bought out Hitachi if I remember right so HGST drives are also made by them. This is the one i would recommend. http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822145912

Try a CPU benchmark. It may help rule out cpu / ram issues.

50 Hz monitor and Vsync?

Anything in event viewer that shows / shown up once the PC was rebooted? Start > type "Event Viewer". ID 41 is just that the machine didn't shut down correctly, so ignore it. ID 10 WMI is also nothing important. Anything else might be interesting.

I'd swap back in the original drive. If the problem stops I'd try re cloning the drive. If the SSHD still doesn't work with the new image on it contact Lenovo to see if that type of drive is supported. I tried to find info on their site but it is pretty basic stuff like amount of USB ports. There was a person i was helping a bit back who's laptop only supported 750 GB hard drives or 1 TB SSDs but not a 1 TB HDD. So it would be a good idea to rule out any odd stuff like that from Lenovo. If they say the drive is good then maybe try the SSHD in another PC. If the problem continues on a completely new PC I'd get in contact with Seagate over an RMA.

Did you clone another onto that laptop's drive? If yes, then did you re install Lenovo specific drivers? Is it the same drive the laptop came with or is it a different drive? What software did you use for the cloning?

This is just off the top of my head. Try a US proxy and then go to the Nvidia site and manually download the newest driver.

Did the audio continue as normal for the youtube video even though the screen changed?