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RectangularBox

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  1. Like
    RectangularBox reacted to boparai in [Python] What would be the best way to remove everything but letters?   
    the first line is compiling a regular for later use.
     
    I'll explain piece by piece :
     
    r' ' : it for python raw strings for unconflicting regex
    [ ] : are selectors to specify which characters and/or range of characters to find
    A-Z: specify all upper case letters and a-z all lower  case letters
    + : is a greedy meta-character which tells the regex engine to find 1 or more characters which match earlier criteria
     
    lets  see an example :http://docs.python.org/2/howto/regex.html
     
    string = 'i_am doing**it ^&wrong 1234'
     
    and we're using findall so it will well find all parts of the string that match our regex and return a list
     
    list = ['i','am','doing','it','wrong']
     
    and then join everything in the list with the blank string and return "iamdoingitwrong"
     
    Although it is a little bit complicated since you don't about regex much but it is a lot more safer and short and frankly it will far more easy when you learn about regex
     
    you can learn more about regex here : http://docs.python.org/2/howto/regex.html
  2. Like
    RectangularBox reacted to helping in Car Audio questions   
    I can't really recommend a box. You might want to look around for people that can fabricate you one or a local audio shop that can build one. Most of the boxes you can buy online are terrible, custom is the way to go.
    Get something like http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P3D415-15-Inch-Subwoofer/dp/B0019FXDR2/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1389670614&sr=8-15&keywords=15+inch+rockford+fosgate
    + a sealed box to manufacturers spec.
    One good subwoofer is better than two mediocre ones. 2x the subs does not mean 2x the bass. 
    Pair that with an amp like http://www.techronics.com/caraudio_13048_Alpine-MRX-M100-1900W-Mono-Block-Class-D-MRX-Series-Power-Amplifier.html?gclid=CM-PlKnv_LsCFeJF7AodgVEAqw
    Get a bass knob with that http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-RUX-KNOB-Remote-Control-PDX-M12/dp/B003KEGS90/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
    Some people like getting amps with higher output than the subs. With a pairing of equal power, you will clip before you max out the sub, which is why I cannot stress enough set your gains with an oscope or do a lot of reading and learn how to find where you start clipping with test tones. With a higher output amplifier you obviously risk overheating and destroying your subs, so I'd prefer matching outputs because you're probably not going to push the amp to max anyway.
    Door speakers depends really, on some you won't even need an amp for it since the receiver can power it just fine. Treat the phrase "peak wattage" as "ナンセンス" and gloss your eyes right over that number pretending you never saw it, I don't even know why it's even mentioned. 
    http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/CD-Receivers/DEH-X6600BT Dual RCA out and bluetooth, since I assume you're going to be playing from your phone.
    Be sure to set your high and low pass frequency filters so that only the subwoofers are playing bass. Component speakers are best choice, be sure they're playing mid and high out of the tweeters only. 
    Up to you if you need a 4 channel amp or not, will depend on speakers too. http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-MRV-F300-4-channel-car-amplifier/dp/B00BLQA9BM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1389675422&sr=8-3&keywords=alpine+amp+4+channel
     
    Along with this, you will need your dash kit for specific make and model, a wiring harness, and some speaker wire since you'll be replacing the door speakers, might as well out with the "good enough" stock wiring. 
     
    Pick up a reel of good quality thick gauge wire to do the runs to power your amp(s). If you need a new battery, depending on how taxing your system is, you can pick up an optima yellow top at autozone for like 200~250$. A quality battery is more important to deal with voltage drop during powerful bass notes if your stock alternator can't handle it. You should think about getting a digital voltage meter inside your car that you can see. The alternator runs at 14 volts, below that is tax on the alternator, below 12.6v is tax on the battery. If you're constantly below 12.6v then your alternator is in need of an upgrade. If you have a decent alternator and battery then dropping below that threshold is ok every now and then, just not sustained below.
     
    Some people bandaid that with a capacitor, but a better battery is the proper way to solve that problem. If your lights dim just a little bit under heavy bass notes then the capacitor will solve the problem. Otherwise, battery. 
     
    Aside from amplifier runs, you will want to change the stock electrical wiring to thicker (i.e. 1/0) and quality gauge from the engine to the chassis, chassis to battery, and battery to alternator. This will drop the resistance of the system significantly, reduce voltage constraints, and overall reduced stress on the car electrical system, the alternator, and your amp. It's integral to make sure that your amp is on a sanded ground point with decent wiring and a good terminal. You can get a cheap (10-20$) volt meter to test for resistance on your grounds. <0.5 ohm is a good ground, the closer to 0 the better. 
     
    If you have an alternator under like, 80 amps, it's likely that it's not going to be able to drive a power hungry set up. A class D amp will usually ballpark an 80~85% efficiency. This is why you should pick a class D amp. For example, assuming your equipment draws around 800w RMS at arbitrary power out of potential RMS (sub+4ch door+receiver), you have an efficiency multiplier of .80, so that will demand around 1000w. Divide that by alternator output (14v) you're looking at ~70 amp draw, not including current required by the onboard electronics  and other inefficiencies. 
     
    If you run into power issues, the alternator is only to be changed if you have dimming issues after changing your stock wiring and you can verify you have a good battery, so stick to practice instead of theory before buying anything since there are too many variables to be certain. 
     
    If anything else feel free to ask. It will be much easier to put something together if there's a car to work with. 
  3. Like
    RectangularBox reacted to Aphexx in Car Audio questions   
    how handy are you with tools really? I remember my first ventures with wrenching. I've stripped so many bolts and screws 
     
    my first piece of advice would be to say cool your head a bit. a new car. your first car is a great and exciting experience but live with your car first 
     
    start with a stealth install first by changing out the stock speakers those are easy to get at and require simple tools.... usually. find out the proper dimensions of the speaker housings and get a good quality 3 way speaker from a good company. 
     
    after that you can come back and see what you need to replace the head unit and get subs and an amp. 
     
    and another protip tighten everything down in the car before you install the amp and subs. nothing makes me giggle walking down the street more than hearing someone with a Booming stereo system in a car that rattles.   BOOOOOOOM bzzzzzz    BooOOoooOOOOM bzzzzzz BOOOOOOOOM bzzzzzz
  4. Like
    RectangularBox got a reaction from Kuzma in Car Audio questions   
    I am getting a car for my upcoming 16th birthday, and I am in the market for some car audio components. I honestly have no idea what is good and what isn't... I understand headphones, but car audio is a brand new thing to me. If you have any suggestions as to what I should look into I would greatly appreciate it. 
  5. Like
    RectangularBox reacted to Recon-UK in Car Audio questions   
    With these kind of speakers, you will more than likely need some sound dampening in the panels too, as they really do kick.
    Not only that, but the listening experience for you will be better too, and you will not need as high a volume, as you will be losing less sound.
  6. Like
    RectangularBox reacted to helping in Car Audio questions   
    I'll post some recommendations and will @ you in a bit
  7. Like
    RectangularBox reacted to Recon-UK in Car Audio questions   
    I recommend Focal 165KR's for your door speakers, however they may be a bit of a mismatch if you do not add in a decent sub, balance is what i prefer.
    Oh, and amplification is the best way to go in my opinion with this set too, rather meaty set
  8. Like
    RectangularBox reacted to Hans Christian | Teri in Car Audio questions   
    On another note before I'm gonna hit the hay, for head units I can really only recommend Pioneer. They make fantastic units and contrary to the rest of the aftermarket HU scene they actually look and feel good as well.
  9. Like
    RectangularBox reacted to dizmo in Car Audio questions   
    6 1/2 is a pretty common size as well. I'd really hold off on speakers until the car is in hand.
     
    I'd also think about waiting on the subwoofer enclosure, as depending on the space available and the hatch there may be issues with height restrictions. It happens. Sometimes the parcel shelf is too low in the rear and it doesn't fit properly either.
    Or, if you get a car with a really small trunk it might be more useful to go with a slim subwoofer to safe space. Some people like to have a little usable space in their trunk left haha
  10. Like
    RectangularBox reacted to OmanGS in Car Audio questions   
    But the warranty is beautiful with JL. I was thinking after tax extremes. The pricing on the JL site is often a lot more than what you can buy them for at audio shops.
     
    My local shop, for instances, usually prices $100-150 under JL's website pricing.
     
    But I mean - let's keep it easy for him. You don't want to go crazy on the first system, hah.
     
    A good substitute might be this amplifier - the -amplifiers-98263'>JX500.
  11. Like
    RectangularBox reacted to helping in Car Audio questions   
    What kind of listening experience do you have? Some people (myself included, I won't lie on the internet) like a bass heavy experience in the car. Feeling the music when you drive makes driving a whole new experience p:
     
    or are you looking for something more accurate and balanced?
  12. Like
    RectangularBox reacted to MayflowerElectronics in Car Audio questions   
    Grab a 2006 GT if you can. That's about as much power as my Nissan makes and it's probably half a ton lighter.
  13. Like
    RectangularBox reacted to dizmo in Car Audio questions   
    Are you looking for a basic single DIN unit, or are you going to go for a double DIN with gps, touch screen, etc built into it?
    You'd have to buy an adapter kit for either one, so that's something to factor into the cost as well.
    Honestly, unless you have the car already it's best to hold off on buying anything. Speaker sizes vary vastly from car to car. So does source unit selection.
     
    Just please don't make a super bass heavy car. Driving around causing tremors just makes you look like a douche.
  14. Like
    RectangularBox reacted to MayflowerElectronics in Car Audio questions   
    It all depends on what car you are getting. Some of the newer cars it's nearly impossible to do ANYTHING to them. Especially audio/electrical upgrades. Older cars (like pre 2006) are a lot easier to work on.
     
    I've noticed upgrading the head unit, and get some nice clean power sounds better then replacing just the speakers.
     
    And there's a thing as too much bass, so upgrading the speakers/headunit/maybe an amp, is probably enough.
     
    I know in my 2003 Saab 9-3, if you replace the headunit, the car won't start... :rolleyes:
  15. Like
    RectangularBox reacted to Hans Christian | Teri in Car Audio questions   
    It does take a good deal of time but actually doing it is not rocket science (of course depending on the car). There are usually already several holes and panels to run cables through and behind. It definitely is something I think you should do yourself, it's a very enjoyable process to go through with your car and maybe a friend.
  16. Like
    RectangularBox reacted to helping in Car Audio questions   
    500$ for a 600w monoblock is blasphemous  :unsure:
  17. Like
    RectangularBox reacted to OmanGS in Car Audio questions   
    Alright, let's figure this out here. I'm going to say that you're not into insane audio and more so a listening experience...so no crazy ported boxes that will rattle five or six cars back.
     
    So...this list that I would recommend in a pinch would be:
     
    JL Audio CP212-W0v3 Ported BassWedge  - ~$500, will get you the enclosure with 2x 12" 12W0v3-4 Drivers @ 600W and 2 Ohm imp. -amplifiers-98263'>JL Audio XD600 Monoblock 600W Amplifier - ~$500, will serve the CP212-W0v3 just fine Installation - ~$500, this just leaves you room to play. If you're looking for some other speakers and tweeters, you can probably get a deal anyhow (I'm just leaving the last $500 for installation and other goodies) That's what I'd say would be a nice setup. Definitely would kick and be cost effective at the same time.
     
    Edit: With that extra $500, you'll easily be able to buy a decent deck and wire kit and do it yourself. I'm guessing the car already has a decent deck, because most Mitsubishi owners are crazy and upgrade their audio deck but leave the audio alone - hah.
  18. Like
    RectangularBox reacted to Turkatron in Car Audio questions   
    You need a deck with RCA inputs. For bass you need a subwoofer, enclousure, an amplifier, and all the wires. Cars usuallay have speakers preinstalled and you can upgrade those and hook them up to an amp as well.
  19. Like
    RectangularBox reacted to dizmo in Car Audio questions   
    So much more information is needed.
    Are you replacing or even able to replace the source unit?
    Are you replacing all the speakers and adding a subwoofer?
    Do you want to run the speakers off of an amp or the source unit?
    What size speakers does your vehicle take?
    There are some really good niche brands. Rainbow and Diamond Audio come to mind.
  20. Like
    RectangularBox reacted to helping in Car Audio questions   
    What are you looking for exactly?
  21. Like
    RectangularBox reacted to Hans Christian | Teri in Car Audio questions   
    Are we talking regular car audio here? In that case JL Audio is definitely one of my favorites out there, they make some of the best products on the market. Especially their low profile subwoofers are nothing short of amazing.
  22. Like
    RectangularBox reacted to Recon-UK in Car Audio questions   
    Personally...
     
    Hertz.
    JL Audio
    Focal
  23. Like
    RectangularBox reacted to OmanGS in Car Audio questions   
    Well, I'm not too sure what your price range is, but I'll let you know what I have.
     
    JL Audio 12W7AE-3 with custom ported box that fits snug in my car's hatch (12", 3 Ohm, 1000W max subwoofer + 1.75 cu ft. enclosure) JL Audio HD1200 Monoblock Wide-Range Amplified (1200W with a 1.5-4 Ohm impedance range) All in all, my system would retail for around $2500 - so it's a bit more expensive than I'd like to admit. The system itself is tuned down so that I won't blow out my subwoofer. That's not a good time.
     
    What kind of a system are you going for? Total price?
  24. Like
    RectangularBox got a reaction from Walter87 in What Products Did You Buy Because Of Linus   
    The logitech G710+ Mechanical keyboard w/ cherry mx browns
  25. Like
    RectangularBox reacted to ShearMe in Good DAC to go with BeyerDynamic 990 pros   
    The FiiO E10 is a good cheap option. Drives the Beyerdynamics just fine.
    I'd also vote against any Schiit products.
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