Big Wang

any updates? D:

You found and fixed the problem yourself, plus you bothered to look on forums and ask for help which is not stupid. Stupid would be if you kept using your monitor and ignored all the tearing, and sat there like an idiot thinking it's all good.

Feels like Christmas came a year early. Thank you for updating this log. Looking foward to the pictures that are coming out soon.

Since I did this quite a while ago, I might forget to include steps, and they'll probably be out of order. Just a heads up. I also apologize for the terrible lighting in some of the photos.
 
So when the teardown started, the very first thing i decided to do was test fit the pump/res and make sure that would fit.
 

 

 
And it does fit, but as you can see, there are some clearance issues with the top return line which resulted in me having to do something that I didn't really want to do, which you will see later.
 
Then decided to put the CPU block on
 

 

 

 

 

 
I had to put it upside down to work with my tubing runs. Next up is the GPU block!
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
I have to say, putting on a GPU block is much less scary than I originally thought. It was actually quite enjoyable.
 
After that came the front radiator, but there isn't really much involved in that, so there's like one picture.
 

 
And here's how I had to route the fan cables so they aren't visible: around the front.
 

 

 

 
Here is the multiway fitting and drain valve on the single rad in the other half of the case
 

 
This is where the rad is mounted on the other side of the case. It's just stuck on the bottom with velcro, and it's surprisingly stable.
 

 
In order to mount the rad there, I had to snip two little tabs off the bottom of the case. 
 

 
After all that was done, it was time for bending tubes! I decided to do the one from the outlet on the GPU to the inlet on the radiator first. I don't have any pictures of the process unfortunately, just of the tube when it's done.
 

 

 
I was super happy with how this one turned out. The next one was a bit of a hassle...
 

 
I tried to do this run between the pump and the top of the GPU in as short of a run as possible.
 

 

 
If i persevered, I probably could have gotten it to work, but it was just way to hard to have a tube that short, heat it up, bend it and hold it in place without burning myself and warping the ends of the tube. Also one of my attempts at doing that bend was super kinked so it wouldn't have worked anyway. So my dad actually helped me "design" a longer bend that has nice open curves and was MUCH easier to make. Once again I don't have any pictures of the process, but we measured it out on paper and used that as a stencile for the bends. Here's how it looks:
 

 

 
Before I made it, I didn't think it would look good, but now I think it actually looks kinda cool. Still would have rathered it be shorter though.
 
Also, I didn't have any pictures of the process of this, but I painted the pump white, and plastidipped the reservior holder clip things white. You can see it in some of the pictures. I also tried to plastidip the cable grommets white too, but it didn't turn out very well; doesn't stick very well. I only ended up using two of the grommets.
 
Next I just did the little tube from the front radiator, to the one in the rear of the case. I had to drill a hole in the motherboard tray to make a clear path, but that's it. Just a simple 90 degree bend.
 

 

 
So now it's time for the one from the outlet of the CPU block back to the top of the reservoir. Doing the bend itself, wasn't that hard, but fitment was tricky. I was adamant that the pump/res stays in that spot no matter what, and I for some reason didn't think to order a 90 degree fitting. But even if I did, it still wouldn't have fit completely properly anyway. It also wasn't financially feasible to order one fitting since I live in Canada and have to order all of my liquid cooling components from the US, which makes shipping and import charges many times more than the fitting itself. And apparently I only have one picture of that tube, and it's fairly poorly lit. Sorry
 

 
So to fit the top of the tube, I unfortunately had to cut the top panel and let the tube stick out a little bit. Like I said before I didn't want to have to do that, but I would rather do that than move the pump/res somewhere else. Now somehow I forgot about the "measure twice cut once" rule and kinda eyeballed where the tube would stick out, broke out the dremel, and started cutting. 
 

 

 
So I was happy that i got the cut done, went to test fit it, and it wasn't even close. Turns out the tube stuck out right where one of the white bars were. Now thankfully the grills on the top and bottom of the case are identical, so I just swapped the grills and re-cut the hole, this time cutting the white bar too. I also had to cut a notch in the chassis itself to allow a filling tube to be screwed in, and to clear the return tube.
 

 
This cut was also much more clean than the first one too which I liked.
 

 
Now we are on to the final tube: the one going from the inlet on the CPU block to the radiator in the other half of the case. This one was definitely daunting and challenging, but I knew that so I just took it nice and slow, made sure i properly measured everything, and it turned out perfect on the first try!
 

 
It's hard to see in this picture, but there are 6 bends in this one tube. Unfortunately this is the only picture I have of just this tube, so I'll take some more detailed pictures of it later because i'm proud of this one.
 
At this point, all tubing is done. The next step is the scary part: leak testing!
 

 

 
This is kind of a shitty picture, but it's looking at the rear radiator through the top of the case where the SSD cage is.
 

 
Now i'm lucky I did leak testing, because leaks were found Both of the fittings on the radiator in the back of the case leaked. I just didn't tighten them enough. And since I couldn't get to them with everything assembled, I had to drain it, take it apart and take the radiator out, take out the tubes that connect to that radiator, connect them to the radiator outside of the case and tighten the shit out of them, then put the radiator back in the case while maneuvering the tubes through the holes in the motherboard tray. After that, I just left the computer to leak test for 24 hours, and it was fine after that one scary incident. I didn't take any pictures of anything to do with the leak because I just wanted to get it fixed. So I filled it with my Mayhems Pastel Orange coolant, and now IT'S FINISHED!!!!!
 
At this point in writing this, I just want to be finished, and I'm out of pictures. So i'll post some finished pictures tomorrow and some final comments. Thank you all so much for following me along this journey, and sorry to everybody who has been waiting to see this build finished. I just didn't have the motivation to update this thread for some reason. Stay tuned!

Sooo when are the pictures coming out?

^

Put your PSU into the case first and then connect it to socket. Your PSU should have little metallic screw made just for strap.

No, As long as it's connected to socket, it's grounded, you dont have to turn it on.

Thank you for that post, I've never heard of those Powerline Ethernet Kit and they seem awesome. I'll be purchasing that when I order the parts. Thank you!

All looks fairly good to me, no real issues when it comes to the hardware, I would change some things if this was my build just out of personal preference but everything you've got there is fine. One issue I do have with the build though is the WiFi Card. I've dealt with WiFi cards like that one quite a lot and they usually are very poor performing and are very sensitive high temperatures particularly in an Australian Summer. I would suggest ditching the WiFi card because WiFi is utter garbage for gaming and instead get a $50-$60 PowerLine Ethernet kit, you will have significantly more LAN bandwidth at your disposal and also have significantly lower latency (ping) and packet loss. If you're unfamiliar with powerline ethernet basically instead of using WiFi and the heavily congested 2.4Ghz frequency you instead a Wall Socket PowerLine Ethernet kit that will use the electrical wiring in the walls to transfer data, the performance is much closer to that of an actual UTP Ethernet cable when compared to WiFi but without the need to actually put wiring in the walls.
 
TP-Link PowerLine Kit - http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=200_1348&products_id=16992
PC CaseGear PowerLine Kits - http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=200_1348&vk_sort=1

It's good