c4pt1n54n0

Ah, I see! That's honestly confused me for the last seven years. But no, no bios, not even a beep. The fans spin and I can hear the water pump whirring, which are connected to motherboard fan headers, but otherwise nothing. If I remember correctly the ram runs at 1333mhz by default on this setup and only 1600 once I enable XMP, so a CMOS clear should have it using 1333mhz, which I've done. Unfortunately I don't have another system to test on at the moment.

Over the course of the past few years, my old rig from 2013 has been becoming less and less stable. For a while it wouldn't post unless I reseated every DIMM and cleared the CMOS. That evolved to only accepting two sticks, to only one, at which point my friend just needed *something* to get him through, so it lived its past two years with him working fine on just one 8gb HyperX Blu. He's now informed me it won't post at all. Until now I did no research and assumed the issue lied in a failing motherboard, as it's randomly gone corrupt a few times after normal shutdowns, but always succeeded to restore from the gigabyte dualbios backup. Recently I've come across a number of old treads discussing 3930k RAM issues, specifically some of them having very weak memory controllers and the fact that they don't seem to like ram that's over 1600mhz. I'm heading over to pick the machine up later today; it's been a while since I've seen it, so this is all from memory. The X79-UD3 only has four DIMM slots, and specified one and three for use with two sticks, so I think I figured it had some kind of dual channel compatibility... I don't know, it worked for about three years like that, reporting all 32gb before getting weird. I don't have spare desktop parts anymore, so anything I try swapping I'll have to be buying first. What are the chances the IMC finally just gave up and I have an essentially dead 3930k? Maybe I could order some old 1066 DIMMs and see what that does.. I'm going to check for cracked VRMs, bulging caps etc but otherwise I don't really know a good route for troubleshooting here. Any thoughts on this old battleaxe are much appreciated, thanks for reading -Jesse Oh wow, just realized I've never updated my Sig, and now I can't find the page to do so... those specs are accurate besides the 4.5GHz OC and 8gb kit which I swapped for a matching 16gb kit almost immediately after building.

My desktop is in storage, and at the moment most of my gaming is done away from grid power on an Asus u524uqk. i7 7500u, 940mx 2gb, 12gb DDR3, Win10. Since my laptop is usually charged from either my vehicle or solar, I'm looking for ways to stretch my battery while playing less demanding things like TF2 or GMOD. 300fps is unnecessary on my heat damaged, 60hz IPS panel. BIOS has no power control settings at all, but I enabled Max cpu frequency in Power Options. Using CPU-Z I can see that 1GHz (of 2.7 normal) draws 3.1 of the 15w tdp at full load, while still giving ~okay~ performance. But older games like a big, fast core, not lots of slow ones. Ideally I would turn off one core and leave the freq alone, but I know this isn't my x79 rig. Untouched I can get about 90 mins of gaming out of it. Limited to 1ghz and intel graphics, I get around 4hrs, but at 20-25fps. However if i let the cpu run as normal i sometimes see a single core turbo'd over 3ghz, but only drawing 4 or 5 watts. The hardware should be able to run for at least three hours like i want, more really. It's all just software wasting my power in the background. Is anything possible here, or am I just slightly delusional? Wouldn't be the first time... Anyway thanks, Y'all!

sorry, I was unaware that it was already a thing.

Can't tell f being serious or not.......

I just wish I went with a mATX setup, I love my system, but it is a bit big and bulky

well I want it to be able to recieve the whole 150mbps on the wan port, it's alright, I need an excuse to get a WRT1900AC anyway

That's what I figured, thanks for the help

Hi guys! so I'm going to be upgrading my internet to Cox's Ultimate package, which is 150/20. My current router is a Netgear WNDR3400 which only has 10/100 ports, but also has a usb2/3 port, and my moden does as well, so I'm wondering if it would be possible to connect the two over USB in order to get my full bandwidth across my entire network, If I can't, I can just use that USB connection to my main PC for now until I can get a Gigabit router, but if I can avoid that, I'd like to do so. Thanks for the help!

Awesome, thanks for the help!

The uinlimited trial-y version limits your speed to 10 Mbps Which is fine for me, I only use it occasionally when my ISP doesn't need to know what I'm doing online

Well mine is artificially slow because of my VPN.. without it I get about 50 down, 10 up

I've do the second part, USB to Ethernet and back, I actually had 2 USB per Cat5 cable, since they have 8 separate cores...All you have to do is be sure the wires are the same on both ends, order doesn't matter, as long as they are the same.... What are you using the POE for? If you don't mind my asking, I've always been interested in doing something with POE, but never really had a use for it in my home network, only have one AP and three switches, all just connected to render nodes, desktop PC', printers, etc. As far as a homebuilt power supply, depending on your needs, of course, why not use a nice beefy single rail computer PSU, ground the green pin from the 24Pin set, all of the yellow wires are 12v, orange are 3.3v, red are 5v, and blue is -5v Good luck! ~c4pt1n54n0

Hi guys! So, for the last few years I have been getting 3Mbps down and 512Kbps up, for free basically, my grandfather has been paying for it, as a birthday present, basically until I am done with school. Well, we were talking the other day, and it turns out AT&T has been charging him $49/month for the last year or so, not the $15/month that it was at the time of sign up, which was already a bit excessive. So, I told him to stop it, because that is completely insane. Anyway, I made a deal with my friend/neighbor a few houses away, we split the bill to his 50 down, 10 up connection, in exchange for his WiFi passcode. Now I have one last hurdle to conquer: I can only get a signal when I have my laptop shoved in my kitchen window, which is alright when I just want to be connected on my desktop, I just use the connection bridge feature of Windows on my laptop to connect my desktop via a 100ft Cat5e cable. Over the years of having internet in our home, I as well as my dad, have become accustomed to being on our computers/phones everywhere in the house. (I should mention that we have metal siding and it really doesn't like letting UMTS/WiMax signals pass through to our dwelling) Anyway, I still have all of my network gear that I've been using for my home network as well as my makeshift Autodesk Backburner farm. So my question is this, how can I configure my router/ laptop (specifically the Asus VivoBook X202e and Netgear N600) to use my neighbors connection to access the Internet through my network? It needs to be sort of separate, as in I don't care about accessing his network devices and don't want him accidentally messing with my render farm files or my network drives, basically sort of treat my laptop's connection as a WAN connection or something. Either that, or be able to get another router or something of the like to connect to my friend's network, either way, being able to keep them seperate, besides accessing the WAN that his network connects to. Sorry if some of this doesn't really make sense, I am no expert on networking, but I do know my way around a router. Thanks for the help! ~c4pt1n54n0

Technically your graphics card is still a bottleneck, remember, a bottleneck is, strictly speaking, anything that can be upgraded and give you better performance