Taswell

I got a Anet A8 last year to try out 3d printing. It was fun until my A8 started wearing out and jamming,under-extruding, The heat bead doesn't stay hot anymore and it a little warped now, screws keep coming loose cause it vibrates so much, and I sick of putting up the with stupid thing. (but it was only $150 so meh)
 
Im looking for a new 3d Printer to upgrade to that it a little nicer. Things I am looking for:
-Price $400-$580
-Comes with auto leveling bed or can be upgraded to auto leveling bed
-200mmx200mm or larger Print Surface (glass is a plus)
-metal frame with Good build quality
-Takes normal Filament (non of that XYZ NFC tagging cartridge shit)
-Has Direct USB input (does not rely only on SD cards or WiFi)
 
I Like this one but if anyone has better suggestions, I'm open to suggestions
 
Creality Cr-10  (or the cr-10s)

Random pictures I see + rainmeter

would be easier to just find an existing bios and make changes to it. 

Remote desktop into the PC that you are running it on? I have never used folding so thats all I got

Remote desktop into the PC that you are running it on? I have never used folding so thats all I got

Noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo

Noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo

1) I dont think I have ever even seen a GPU with a Hz spec 
2) this spec doesn't matter on a GPU most of the time anyway unless you want 8k @ 144Hz and need extra bandwidth or whatever, other wise ignore it. 
3) GPUs can output a signal pretty much at any Hz you want as long as your monitor will do it. 
 
bottom line -this spec is irrelevant and the seller is just throwing in filler to pad the specs (its not even good filler)

They are pretty rare is the US, but I have seen a couple. 

Once you get black listed once it is very hard to get off since blacklists feed off each other a little, once you get on one you get put on others because you made it onto the first one. Since its not instant and DNS records take about a day to update, the delay period is in terms of days/weeks.  If you manage to get removed from the first one you would still be on the second one and so on and so on. 
 
What you could do is just make another domain name and have it redirect to the old one or the other way around if that is easier. As long as the emails aren't coming directly from that domain you should be able to do it. 

I ran into some shit today that i feel like i need to share with some people who would understand. I will try to link picture of parts so you can get an idea of what stuff was.
 
 I got a call from a customer today that I have never dealt with. I was an elderly gentleman who wanted me to come and clean up his computer digitally and physically, I didn't really want to since my company mostly deals with business clients but he said that he would pay for at least an hour so I was basically forced into it by my boss. Last call of the day.   
 
So I get there, this guys is living alone in the smallest studio apartment in town that mildly smells like dog fart and mothballs. He has no actual furniture except for the counter which is built into the wall, and metal laundry rack that is his pantry/microwave stand, 2 card tables(one for the pc one,one for one janky looking TV from 2001), and everything else is stacked in clear plastic bins scattered everywhere. Immediate mental yikes. 
 
I get to the PC, Start doing general OS maintenance, msconfig, AV, Browser cleanup, and all that shit. Aside from him running windows 7 home with High contrast mode and having about every media player on the planet, everything is normal. I explain what I have done and we go on to the physical cleaning, I ask "where is the PC?" as i don't see it either on the table under the table or in any of the places a normal. He moves the Monitor aside and moves the curtain behind it that I though was there to hide the shitty cement wall. Behind this curtain there is this random cubby hole where he has crammed this PC in a old  Coolermaster HAF case, and it is one of the nastiest Looking PCs i have seen. This is where shit gets weird.        
 
Here is a Part Picker list to the best of my ability of what is was. 
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant Type Item Price CPU Intel - Core i7-4790K 4 GHz Quad-Core Processor $469.00 @ SuperBiiz CPU Cooler Corsair - H100i v2 70.69 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler   Motherboard Asus - SABERTOOTH Z97 MARK S ATX LGA1150 Motherboard   Memory Corsair - Dominator GT 32 GB (4 x 8 GB) DDR3-1866 Memory   Storage Kingston - A400 480 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive $72.99 @ Amazon Video Card Asus - GeForce GTX 660 2 GB Video Card   Case Cooler Master - HAF X ATX Full Tower Case   Power Supply Corsair - RMx 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply $199.89 @ OutletPC Optical Drive Asus - BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer $119.88 @ OutletPC Optical Drive LG - UH12NS40 Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer $45.88 @ OutletPC Operating System Microsoft - Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 32-bit $69.00 @ My Choice Software   Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts     Total $976.64   Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-01-18 00:11 EST-0500    
(the only thing on here im not sure of are the optical drives)
 
I make a comment about how gross the PC looks, and he tells he has had it for a little over a year and has no idea how it got so dirty. To which I respond "how much did you get it on eBay for?". He proudly looks at me and says he built it himself around the beginning of last year for $4000. To which I am trying really to be professional and not look shocked or laugh. To distract myself I start taking the side panel off I can blow this thing out and GTFO. Meanwhile he starts asking me if I know anyone who wants a used gaming PC and " do you think I could get $4000 for it". At this point I am just done with this whole situation and I start being extremely blunt and just answer "I highly doubt it". He start arguing that he spent $$$_____  on this or that part alone that it should worth something. So I brought up the Intel ark for the 4790k and tried to explain that he has an almost obsolete platform and an even older GPU, to which he was very defiant. The only new parts in the build where the SSD, PSU, and the cooler. If the case was new it certainly didn't look it. Upon further inspection the optical drives where also dead, not unplugged, dead. 
 
My guess was he bought from those listings on newegg or amazon that have old hardware at above retail for some reason and thought that since it was at the top of the price bracket that it was the best. I don't know how it totaled $4000 and I didn't want to stay to ask.  I wish I would have managed to take some pictures. 

@HerculesAp
I built one last year. Its not super hard, to build an emulator box. The hard part for most people is getting everything to startup without user input, getting a ROM library that works, and getting the front end to acknowledge that library. This is not an easy project and requires lots of time and money. 
 
Im not going to go into detail since i would be here all day. Do it your own way its your project not mine. 
 
1:)Start with getting a version of MAME and a library that works 
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2:) Find a front end you like 
 
there are only 3 well known and documented front ends on windows (from least work to most work- I have used all 3) 
BIG BOX - plug and play mostly, Free game DB Media finder, cookie cutter setup 
Maximum arcade - indie made version of big box, cheaper but not as automated, looks kinda like retro pie  
HYPER SPIN - free, Complex, many hours of learning required, Be prepared to put in days of setup, but you can tweak anything you want 
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3:) start working on getting everything working without a keyboard or mouse before you go shoving the system into something
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4:) work on automating start up and application launching and closing, You can go full Kiosk mode on windows and lock down everything - disable explorer and all that, but i just throw the stuff I want to launch in the windows start folder. Its slower but its easy to work on when shit crashes. 
 
Windows registry auto login - just google it 
Joy2Key -emulate keyboard shortcuts and keys for media controls and such 
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5:) now you can go shove it in a cabinet- treat this as a separate project.  (Mine is a Table Top with custom set of Vinyls on it)
there are 4 sizes Full, 3/4 scale, tabletop, Cocktail, and some special cases like Wallcades. Pick one based on your budget or talent with wood 
 
Stuff needed for cabinet 
Speakers/AMP
Control panel buttons/Sticks
Mounting hardware for sticks 
Monitor    
T molding if you want it 
power strip
Switches and buttons ,for power switches and such 
Marquee supplies, Lights,holders ( I have some white cold cathodes from an old build and tin foil) 
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You should expect to be wishing that you build a $600 desktop with a real video card in it. that GPU has about the same benchmark performance as intel HD 4000, so its not good for a whole lot. 

I put a SSD in a Pentium 4/XP computer the other day and about tripled its speed vs the 70GB HDD it had in it. 

https://novelkeys.xyz/collections/keycaps/products/kailh-low-profile-keycaps-with-legends

the only ones that really matter are the CPU 4/8 pin, the Motherboard 24 pin, and the gpu 6/8 pin everything else can just get plugged in wherever it fits and you should be fine.
 
Messing up the order of the sata cables is not the end of the world unless you have an older computer with a shittier bios, in that case either put the cables back how they were or fix it in the bios. your mbr error means the drive that normally is at the top of the boot priority has been moved so it cant find the mbr anymore

non K, It was an upgrade from a 4690K that's why i have a Z87 board

If you make a laptop, it should be functional, reliable and tested to ensure that it works.
 
You don't excuse the fact that it runs unsuitably hot by saying it is because it has an i9, Apple knew what they were getting themselves into when they decided to release it, and should have made the correct and suitable cooling solution to cope with it. There is no excuse.

buying a single more powerful card is more reliable that buying multiple low power cards. 

buying a single more powerful card is more reliable that buying multiple low power cards. 

buying a single more powerful card is more reliable that buying multiple low power cards. 

buying a single more powerful card is more reliable that buying multiple low power cards. 

well if your gonna use your old computer as a render slave then just get the 8700k. You wont need the extra cores (unless your really impatient about your renders/have more than one at a time) since you have another computer doing the rendering and it could also be your streaming computer for the small price of a capture card. Intel Price to performance Ratio falls off dramatically the higher you go, I think anything above the 8700K is pretty impractical (price/performance) unless you just want bragging rights or can seriously justify buying one cause your work load is that crazy.

Fuck EA.....

Fuck EA.....