zoltan

Maybe it would be nice to further divide this subforum in subfora, e.g. Windows 7, Windows 8, legacy Windows, GNU/Linux+Android x86, GNU/Linux+Android ARM, CPU, GPU, storage, NIC+routers+switches+WiFi adapters, peripherals, etc... because for instance I can help with GNU/Linux troubleshooting, but don't really want to venture into a lot of other things, so it would be nice to have all linux problems together in an overview to save time that could be used for troubleshooting.
 
As a sidenote, I also think it would be nice to have a separate subforum where people can go to get started with GNU/Linux, how to try it to see what DE they like, how to install it once they've decided, how to troubeshoot if there are problems with drivers and steam installs, etc... basic stuff that's not really available in one spot on the Internet anywhere, but would fill a definite need with the way things are evolving.

I saw Linus' video on the Meze 11 earphones.
 
Linus mentions he did research on these earphones, but I seriously doubt that, because then he would certainly have noticed the Scandal about Meze on the internet. This looks like the inverse of the Armaggeddon incident lol...
 
This is a representation of my understanding of what alledgedly happened at headfi.org:
 
Some time ago, Antonio Meze was banned from headfi.org because of misuse of fora to promote his products with misleading information, alledgedly because:
 
- the entire Meze product range is nothing but the rebranded eSmooth OEM product range, available for a third to a fifth of the Meze price on eBay and Amazon, and even cheaper from the Chinese manufacturer himself.
 
- there was absolutely no part of any Meze product designed by Antonio Meze, it's all rebranded OEMware.
 
- the only value added by Meze is the marketing.
 
- Meze doesn't manufacture anything, it's a reseller based in Romania without any real company organisation or support infrastructure, it's basically one guy, Antonio Meze, with a computer and an internet connection.
 
- the eSmooth earphones are pretty good in reviews, the products are probably fine, just not worth the high price Meze charges.
 
- when Antonio Meze was confronted with this, he denied that his products were rebranded eSmooth headphones, but later eSmooth confirmed that they are OEM for Meze. Headfi.org didn't take Meze's lies lightly, and saw that he had made several different accounts to praise his products on the forum all from the same IP address, and banned him.
 
 
Source for all of this: several threads on headfi.org
 
I don't have anything against chinese made cheap products, it's just that consumers should be well-informed about where these products come from, and who designs and manufactures the products, and what their real retail value is, if I see what happened over at headfi.org, I don't really feel like spending money on a no-value-added reseller that alledgedly lied to one of the most influential headphone review organizations on the internet, but of course, that's just my interpretation of the several threads on this at headfi.org, everyone has to make up his own mind.
 
 
Edit: it was also on overclock.net: http://www.overclock.net/t/1396063/meze-88-classics
 
On E-Bay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Esmooth-ES-220-Ebony-Wood-In-Ear-Headphones-iPod-iPhone-HTC-Samsung-Blackberry-/400478358639?pt=US_Headphones&hash=item5d3e5ecc6f

I saw Linus' video on the Meze 11 earphones.
 
Linus mentions he did research on these earphones, but I seriously doubt that, because then he would certainly have noticed the Scandal about Meze on the internet. This looks like the inverse of the Armaggeddon incident lol...
 
This is a representation of my understanding of what alledgedly happened at headfi.org:
 
Some time ago, Antonio Meze was banned from headfi.org because of misuse of fora to promote his products with misleading information, alledgedly because:
 
- the entire Meze product range is nothing but the rebranded eSmooth OEM product range, available for a third to a fifth of the Meze price on eBay and Amazon, and even cheaper from the Chinese manufacturer himself.
 
- there was absolutely no part of any Meze product designed by Antonio Meze, it's all rebranded OEMware.
 
- the only value added by Meze is the marketing.
 
- Meze doesn't manufacture anything, it's a reseller based in Romania without any real company organisation or support infrastructure, it's basically one guy, Antonio Meze, with a computer and an internet connection.
 
- the eSmooth earphones are pretty good in reviews, the products are probably fine, just not worth the high price Meze charges.
 
- when Antonio Meze was confronted with this, he denied that his products were rebranded eSmooth headphones, but later eSmooth confirmed that they are OEM for Meze. Headfi.org didn't take Meze's lies lightly, and saw that he had made several different accounts to praise his products on the forum all from the same IP address, and banned him.
 
 
Source for all of this: several threads on headfi.org
 
I don't have anything against chinese made cheap products, it's just that consumers should be well-informed about where these products come from, and who designs and manufactures the products, and what their real retail value is, if I see what happened over at headfi.org, I don't really feel like spending money on a no-value-added reseller that alledgedly lied to one of the most influential headphone review organizations on the internet, but of course, that's just my interpretation of the several threads on this at headfi.org, everyone has to make up his own mind.
 
 
Edit: it was also on overclock.net: http://www.overclock.net/t/1396063/meze-88-classics
 
On E-Bay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Esmooth-ES-220-Ebony-Wood-In-Ear-Headphones-iPod-iPhone-HTC-Samsung-Blackberry-/400478358639?pt=US_Headphones&hash=item5d3e5ecc6f

I saw Linus' video on the Meze 11 earphones.
 
Linus mentions he did research on these earphones, but I seriously doubt that, because then he would certainly have noticed the Scandal about Meze on the internet. This looks like the inverse of the Armaggeddon incident lol...
 
This is a representation of my understanding of what alledgedly happened at headfi.org:
 
Some time ago, Antonio Meze was banned from headfi.org because of misuse of fora to promote his products with misleading information, alledgedly because:
 
- the entire Meze product range is nothing but the rebranded eSmooth OEM product range, available for a third to a fifth of the Meze price on eBay and Amazon, and even cheaper from the Chinese manufacturer himself.
 
- there was absolutely no part of any Meze product designed by Antonio Meze, it's all rebranded OEMware.
 
- the only value added by Meze is the marketing.
 
- Meze doesn't manufacture anything, it's a reseller based in Romania without any real company organisation or support infrastructure, it's basically one guy, Antonio Meze, with a computer and an internet connection.
 
- the eSmooth earphones are pretty good in reviews, the products are probably fine, just not worth the high price Meze charges.
 
- when Antonio Meze was confronted with this, he denied that his products were rebranded eSmooth headphones, but later eSmooth confirmed that they are OEM for Meze. Headfi.org didn't take Meze's lies lightly, and saw that he had made several different accounts to praise his products on the forum all from the same IP address, and banned him.
 
 
Source for all of this: several threads on headfi.org
 
I don't have anything against chinese made cheap products, it's just that consumers should be well-informed about where these products come from, and who designs and manufactures the products, and what their real retail value is, if I see what happened over at headfi.org, I don't really feel like spending money on a no-value-added reseller that alledgedly lied to one of the most influential headphone review organizations on the internet, but of course, that's just my interpretation of the several threads on this at headfi.org, everyone has to make up his own mind.
 
 
Edit: it was also on overclock.net: http://www.overclock.net/t/1396063/meze-88-classics
 
On E-Bay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Esmooth-ES-220-Ebony-Wood-In-Ear-Headphones-iPod-iPhone-HTC-Samsung-Blackberry-/400478358639?pt=US_Headphones&hash=item5d3e5ecc6f

I saw Linus' video on the Meze 11 earphones.
 
Linus mentions he did research on these earphones, but I seriously doubt that, because then he would certainly have noticed the Scandal about Meze on the internet. This looks like the inverse of the Armaggeddon incident lol...
 
This is a representation of my understanding of what alledgedly happened at headfi.org:
 
Some time ago, Antonio Meze was banned from headfi.org because of misuse of fora to promote his products with misleading information, alledgedly because:
 
- the entire Meze product range is nothing but the rebranded eSmooth OEM product range, available for a third to a fifth of the Meze price on eBay and Amazon, and even cheaper from the Chinese manufacturer himself.
 
- there was absolutely no part of any Meze product designed by Antonio Meze, it's all rebranded OEMware.
 
- the only value added by Meze is the marketing.
 
- Meze doesn't manufacture anything, it's a reseller based in Romania without any real company organisation or support infrastructure, it's basically one guy, Antonio Meze, with a computer and an internet connection.
 
- the eSmooth earphones are pretty good in reviews, the products are probably fine, just not worth the high price Meze charges.
 
- when Antonio Meze was confronted with this, he denied that his products were rebranded eSmooth headphones, but later eSmooth confirmed that they are OEM for Meze. Headfi.org didn't take Meze's lies lightly, and saw that he had made several different accounts to praise his products on the forum all from the same IP address, and banned him.
 
 
Source for all of this: several threads on headfi.org
 
I don't have anything against chinese made cheap products, it's just that consumers should be well-informed about where these products come from, and who designs and manufactures the products, and what their real retail value is, if I see what happened over at headfi.org, I don't really feel like spending money on a no-value-added reseller that alledgedly lied to one of the most influential headphone review organizations on the internet, but of course, that's just my interpretation of the several threads on this at headfi.org, everyone has to make up his own mind.
 
 
Edit: it was also on overclock.net: http://www.overclock.net/t/1396063/meze-88-classics
 
On E-Bay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Esmooth-ES-220-Ebony-Wood-In-Ear-Headphones-iPod-iPhone-HTC-Samsung-Blackberry-/400478358639?pt=US_Headphones&hash=item5d3e5ecc6f

I saw Linus' video on the Meze 11 earphones.
 
Linus mentions he did research on these earphones, but I seriously doubt that, because then he would certainly have noticed the Scandal about Meze on the internet. This looks like the inverse of the Armaggeddon incident lol...
 
This is a representation of my understanding of what alledgedly happened at headfi.org:
 
Some time ago, Antonio Meze was banned from headfi.org because of misuse of fora to promote his products with misleading information, alledgedly because:
 
- the entire Meze product range is nothing but the rebranded eSmooth OEM product range, available for a third to a fifth of the Meze price on eBay and Amazon, and even cheaper from the Chinese manufacturer himself.
 
- there was absolutely no part of any Meze product designed by Antonio Meze, it's all rebranded OEMware.
 
- the only value added by Meze is the marketing.
 
- Meze doesn't manufacture anything, it's a reseller based in Romania without any real company organisation or support infrastructure, it's basically one guy, Antonio Meze, with a computer and an internet connection.
 
- the eSmooth earphones are pretty good in reviews, the products are probably fine, just not worth the high price Meze charges.
 
- when Antonio Meze was confronted with this, he denied that his products were rebranded eSmooth headphones, but later eSmooth confirmed that they are OEM for Meze. Headfi.org didn't take Meze's lies lightly, and saw that he had made several different accounts to praise his products on the forum all from the same IP address, and banned him.
 
 
Source for all of this: several threads on headfi.org
 
I don't have anything against chinese made cheap products, it's just that consumers should be well-informed about where these products come from, and who designs and manufactures the products, and what their real retail value is, if I see what happened over at headfi.org, I don't really feel like spending money on a no-value-added reseller that alledgedly lied to one of the most influential headphone review organizations on the internet, but of course, that's just my interpretation of the several threads on this at headfi.org, everyone has to make up his own mind.
 
 
Edit: it was also on overclock.net: http://www.overclock.net/t/1396063/meze-88-classics
 
On E-Bay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Esmooth-ES-220-Ebony-Wood-In-Ear-Headphones-iPod-iPhone-HTC-Samsung-Blackberry-/400478358639?pt=US_Headphones&hash=item5d3e5ecc6f

+1, only go for full blocks, you can sell the GPU cards with the blocks when you upgrade, and they will hold their value really well with the blocks. Full blocks is an easier, more reliable, and more cost effective solution any way you put it.

Also to when i think linux games will arrive: Soon
First off, you can use wine with alomst any game that doesn't require DirectX11 with a bit of tweaking and sometimes none, but games being released natively for linux:
Indie games like Don't Starve, Kerbel space program, Game dev tycoon, Surgeon simulator, Amnesia etc are already released natively for linux
Also, Steam's favor of linux is making every game developer look more to Linux. CS is now available on steam, Blizzard is as far as i remember developing something, and it's generally starting to get more normal releasing a linux version of a game.

Well, first off, Mayhems covers their butts by saying not to use Primochill period. Maybe the Advanced LRT though will work out. Just to many issues with M & P to be confident. :) Much easier to use say XSPC tubing or XSPC coolant, EK Coolant, etc and know it will be pretty safe.
 
As for water/coolant - all are conductive, to some degree. Even de-ionized water quickly gathers up ions and becomes conductive. If any "coolant" claims to be non-conductive - they either have in fine print somewhere "until you actually use it" or they just wrong.
Now, here is the tricky part - getting water on a component does not mean instant fry. You can be lucky and have water spill on components to such a degree that it keeps working. Remember, you would need active current to short. 
 
So - water/coolant IS conductive, to some greater or lesser degree. If you have a spill/flood you will many times actually be safe, especially if you get things shut down soon enough. BUT do NOT assume such a spill will be ok. The one time you get careless, pop, that shiny brand new card will be a smoking ruin.
 
Water cooling carries with it a very large risk - if you have a leak you can loose gear. Plan for the worst and more often then not, everything will run perfectly. (unless you overheat your water, stress your acrylic res and pop a seal - but that's another story :) )
 
And please, for the love of all that is decent, do NOT take Ghost up on his offer to soak you computer... :)
 

Mercury is also highly conductive of electricity, not just of heat energy. Another thing is that it has high surface tension, high coherence, low adherence, it rejects most other materials, so some thought must go to the materials the thermal interface surfaces are made of.
But seriously, it's pure theory, mercury is evil stuff, and I don't think it's legal to have mercury in sufficient quantities. The viscosity is good though, it should work. When I was a small kid, we used to play with mercury because it was cool, thinking back that was very very dangerous.

Celebrating a draught, well, I guess they celebrate worse than that at times.
 
Anyway, after Jesusfest yesterday and then forum downtime every time I wanted to post, he we are lol.
 
An azeotropic solution is a solution whereby the physical characteristics of the liquids will change. With water, everybody already knows how that works, like anti-freeze in a car coolant, etc, but there's also the possibility of changing the boiling temp instead of the freezing temp, and that is very useful for specific use coolants, like PC cooling loops.
It's the same principle as an air cooler (well any liquid cooler is still an air cooler of course), whereby heatpipes are used. The fluid used in heatpipes has a very low boiling temp, so that it evaporates quickly, travels towards the heatsink-equipped end of the heatpipe as a gas, then condensates back to liquid again and is pumped through gravity or a capillary pump back to the hot zone. It's basically a closed loop liquid cooling system. In a full size liquid cooling system, this principle can also be used. The trick is to do the inverse of a pressure cooker: making the coolant almost boil, but it can't boil because of the closed loop and the automatic temperature limit that is built into every processor. But, while it has as good as reached boiling temperature, the molecules of the cooling liquid will absorbe much more thermal energy, so they will actively cool. The absorbed energy will be dissipated to the radiator when the molecule reaches that. If the molecule has reached a temperature that would allow it to move to gaseous state normally, it will also dissipate it's stored energy much faster than when it hasn't.
It's the same thing as with freezing water: if you put room temperature water in the freezer, it will take a few hours to freeze solid, but if you put boiling water in the freezer, it will freeze in seconds. The reason is that any compound, in order to change it's state, has to use energy, and that energy is thermal energy. You can test this principle at home: you put water on the back of your hand that is exactly the same temperature as your body temperature, and it will feel cold, because it's evaporating, and is drawing thermal energy from your skin. If you put water with alcohol of exactly the same temperature of your body temperature on the back of your hand, it will feel colder, because it evaporates faster, because the boiling point is lowered, thus drawing thermal energy faster.
So applied to the PC cooling loop:
Let's say we want to cool an overclocked Core i5-3570k. At full load overclocked, this chip will have a Tj of 105°C, which is above the boiling temp of pure water, but above 100°C the CPU is throttled, so a baseplate could get as hot as about the temperature of boiling water. So we need an airtight closed loop anyway for this chip because otherwise, the coolant, even if it's pure water, can boil and form bubbles, except when the gas pressure doesn't allow that, and only allows evaporating to the same pace as condensation.
This system is most likely to run at much lower temps than that, but we want to keep it away from 90°C, so we want to boost the cooling performance just before it reaches 90°C. Normally we would do that with a radiator fan profile, but we can also do it with the coolant: by adding enough alcohol to reduce the boiling point of the coolant with 10 degrees celsius, to bring it from 100°C to about 90°C. That necessitates about 30% glycol in the water. Adding the alcohol will also reduce the thermal conductivity, so we can't add too much. Alcohol will also corrode metal, so we can't add too much. Basically, just like in cars, we want to avoid adding more than 50% alcohol. The more alcohol in the water, the lower the boiling point. Here we want to have a boiling temp that is above the normal operating temp, but under the maximum load temp, 90°C. What will happen, is that first of all the coolant will perform about the same at normal operating levels, it evaporates a bit better, thus absorbs a bit more thermal energy, but it's also a bit less thermally conductive. But when the load on the CPU goes up, the coolant will gain in efficiency: as the coolant reaches it's boiling point sooner, it will start drawing a huge amount of thermal energy sooner, and the system will not get as hot.
 
In my experience, adding 20-30% glycol-based high performance anti-freeze (I use high performance motorcycle anti-freeze, because it's made for warm weather and a specific usage scenario, so the manufacturer of the anti-freeze adds nothing that is not necessary, and I use a separate loop for the CPU), lowers the coolant boiling temperature with less than 10°C, which works perfectly for cooling an Intel in a heavy gaming rig, because instead of starting to boost cooling performance at near 100°C, the coolant will start to boost cooling performance at just beyond 90°C. It will have reached its boiling point and the molecules will try to reach a gaseous state by absorbing a huge amount of thermal energy, but they will not be able to form bubbles in the coolant because - even though the molecules will have absorbed all this energy to change state - they will not be able to at a faster pace than the condensation pace in the radiator, because it's an airtight closed loop and the gas pressure can't rise. Modern tubing resist extreme pressures, well beyond the small pressure that will build up because of the evaporating coolant. I get about 2-3°C lower average temperature with glycol+water in comparison to water only myself, so there is a difference. Pre-filled liquid coolers use glycol to boost the performance in this way (or, how to get astonishingly good performance out of mediocre hardware...).
As mentioned, there are a few downsides to adding alcohol to the coolant water. One downside I haven't mentioned yet: alcohol, glycol specifically, breaks down into acids, especially when it's heated for a long time. This causes any water/alcohol loop to become dangerously corrosive to the hardware after about 2 years. And that's thanks to the additives in the anti-freeze that it takes that long to become acid. Even pre-filled PC cooling loops, which contain water and summer automotive anti-freeze, which is glycol with very few additives, mainly anti-acids if anything, will have their coolant become acidic after a good two years, and will break down, unless the coolant is tested and changed to moment it drop down to a pH value of 7. Two years is of course a long time for a custom loop, so it's not really a problem for enthusiasts.
 
The colorants and bling additives for coolants, will not leave a residue. Fancy opaque colorants/bling additives, will definitely leave a gel-like residue (I think it's silicone based by the looks of it), but in my opinion, they will not break anything, an amount of residue is only difficutly avoidable in any loop in the long run. However, silicones are only soluble in acid solutions, which is not a great idea for cooling loops. I have no idea how they solve that. Maybe they don't, maybe it's like shampoo, that's not supposed to be acid either, but it is because of the silicones. And that's the problem with some fancy additives or coolants, you don't exactly know what's in them, it's a closed source coolant lol, you have to trust the manufacturer. I'd rather know what I put in the loop exactly, down to the handful of molecules. That's also why I like glycol-based motorcycle anti-freeze, it's a simple product and I know exactly what it is. Also, anti-freeze is often UV reactive (so you don't need extra bling), and it's highly toxic, so a perfect biocide. An anti-freeze solution will become darker with time, many fancy coolants will not change colour that much.

It says concentrated but not how concentrated, so that's an unknown factor. It also doesn't say what the freezing temp is, which would be the same info but different.
But if you would know the concentration, that would probably be suitable.
 
I'll explain the azeotropic solution thing as soon as I can get behind my keyboard long enough, apparently God and/or Jesus are having some kind of a party today, and you probably all know or can imagine how that goes in catholic families, they all expect a miraculous multiplication of loaves and fish and wine when it's a God Party Day, and I have to cater for that until they all can go home and watch soccer or something. Won't be too long lol, very sorry for leaving you guys hanging a bit longer. Wish I knew what Jesus-event is celebrated today, I'm feeding and entertaining people in my house and I don't know what for lol.

Celebrating a draught, well, I guess they celebrate worse than that at times.
 
Anyway, after Jesusfest yesterday and then forum downtime every time I wanted to post, he we are lol.
 
An azeotropic solution is a solution whereby the physical characteristics of the liquids will change. With water, everybody already knows how that works, like anti-freeze in a car coolant, etc, but there's also the possibility of changing the boiling temp instead of the freezing temp, and that is very useful for specific use coolants, like PC cooling loops.
It's the same principle as an air cooler (well any liquid cooler is still an air cooler of course), whereby heatpipes are used. The fluid used in heatpipes has a very low boiling temp, so that it evaporates quickly, travels towards the heatsink-equipped end of the heatpipe as a gas, then condensates back to liquid again and is pumped through gravity or a capillary pump back to the hot zone. It's basically a closed loop liquid cooling system. In a full size liquid cooling system, this principle can also be used. The trick is to do the inverse of a pressure cooker: making the coolant almost boil, but it can't boil because of the closed loop and the automatic temperature limit that is built into every processor. But, while it has as good as reached boiling temperature, the molecules of the cooling liquid will absorbe much more thermal energy, so they will actively cool. The absorbed energy will be dissipated to the radiator when the molecule reaches that. If the molecule has reached a temperature that would allow it to move to gaseous state normally, it will also dissipate it's stored energy much faster than when it hasn't.
It's the same thing as with freezing water: if you put room temperature water in the freezer, it will take a few hours to freeze solid, but if you put boiling water in the freezer, it will freeze in seconds. The reason is that any compound, in order to change it's state, has to use energy, and that energy is thermal energy. You can test this principle at home: you put water on the back of your hand that is exactly the same temperature as your body temperature, and it will feel cold, because it's evaporating, and is drawing thermal energy from your skin. If you put water with alcohol of exactly the same temperature of your body temperature on the back of your hand, it will feel colder, because it evaporates faster, because the boiling point is lowered, thus drawing thermal energy faster.
So applied to the PC cooling loop:
Let's say we want to cool an overclocked Core i5-3570k. At full load overclocked, this chip will have a Tj of 105°C, which is above the boiling temp of pure water, but above 100°C the CPU is throttled, so a baseplate could get as hot as about the temperature of boiling water. So we need an airtight closed loop anyway for this chip because otherwise, the coolant, even if it's pure water, can boil and form bubbles, except when the gas pressure doesn't allow that, and only allows evaporating to the same pace as condensation.
This system is most likely to run at much lower temps than that, but we want to keep it away from 90°C, so we want to boost the cooling performance just before it reaches 90°C. Normally we would do that with a radiator fan profile, but we can also do it with the coolant: by adding enough alcohol to reduce the boiling point of the coolant with 10 degrees celsius, to bring it from 100°C to about 90°C. That necessitates about 30% glycol in the water. Adding the alcohol will also reduce the thermal conductivity, so we can't add too much. Alcohol will also corrode metal, so we can't add too much. Basically, just like in cars, we want to avoid adding more than 50% alcohol. The more alcohol in the water, the lower the boiling point. Here we want to have a boiling temp that is above the normal operating temp, but under the maximum load temp, 90°C. What will happen, is that first of all the coolant will perform about the same at normal operating levels, it evaporates a bit better, thus absorbs a bit more thermal energy, but it's also a bit less thermally conductive. But when the load on the CPU goes up, the coolant will gain in efficiency: as the coolant reaches it's boiling point sooner, it will start drawing a huge amount of thermal energy sooner, and the system will not get as hot.
 
In my experience, adding 20-30% glycol-based high performance anti-freeze (I use high performance motorcycle anti-freeze, because it's made for warm weather and a specific usage scenario, so the manufacturer of the anti-freeze adds nothing that is not necessary, and I use a separate loop for the CPU), lowers the coolant boiling temperature with less than 10°C, which works perfectly for cooling an Intel in a heavy gaming rig, because instead of starting to boost cooling performance at near 100°C, the coolant will start to boost cooling performance at just beyond 90°C. It will have reached its boiling point and the molecules will try to reach a gaseous state by absorbing a huge amount of thermal energy, but they will not be able to form bubbles in the coolant because - even though the molecules will have absorbed all this energy to change state - they will not be able to at a faster pace than the condensation pace in the radiator, because it's an airtight closed loop and the gas pressure can't rise. Modern tubing resist extreme pressures, well beyond the small pressure that will build up because of the evaporating coolant. I get about 2-3°C lower average temperature with glycol+water in comparison to water only myself, so there is a difference. Pre-filled liquid coolers use glycol to boost the performance in this way (or, how to get astonishingly good performance out of mediocre hardware...).
As mentioned, there are a few downsides to adding alcohol to the coolant water. One downside I haven't mentioned yet: alcohol, glycol specifically, breaks down into acids, especially when it's heated for a long time. This causes any water/alcohol loop to become dangerously corrosive to the hardware after about 2 years. And that's thanks to the additives in the anti-freeze that it takes that long to become acid. Even pre-filled PC cooling loops, which contain water and summer automotive anti-freeze, which is glycol with very few additives, mainly anti-acids if anything, will have their coolant become acidic after a good two years, and will break down, unless the coolant is tested and changed to moment it drop down to a pH value of 7. Two years is of course a long time for a custom loop, so it's not really a problem for enthusiasts.
 
The colorants and bling additives for coolants, will not leave a residue. Fancy opaque colorants/bling additives, will definitely leave a gel-like residue (I think it's silicone based by the looks of it), but in my opinion, they will not break anything, an amount of residue is only difficutly avoidable in any loop in the long run. However, silicones are only soluble in acid solutions, which is not a great idea for cooling loops. I have no idea how they solve that. Maybe they don't, maybe it's like shampoo, that's not supposed to be acid either, but it is because of the silicones. And that's the problem with some fancy additives or coolants, you don't exactly know what's in them, it's a closed source coolant lol, you have to trust the manufacturer. I'd rather know what I put in the loop exactly, down to the handful of molecules. That's also why I like glycol-based motorcycle anti-freeze, it's a simple product and I know exactly what it is. Also, anti-freeze is often UV reactive (so you don't need extra bling), and it's highly toxic, so a perfect biocide. An anti-freeze solution will become darker with time, many fancy coolants will not change colour that much.

Celebrating a draught, well, I guess they celebrate worse than that at times.
 
Anyway, after Jesusfest yesterday and then forum downtime every time I wanted to post, he we are lol.
 
An azeotropic solution is a solution whereby the physical characteristics of the liquids will change. With water, everybody already knows how that works, like anti-freeze in a car coolant, etc, but there's also the possibility of changing the boiling temp instead of the freezing temp, and that is very useful for specific use coolants, like PC cooling loops.
It's the same principle as an air cooler (well any liquid cooler is still an air cooler of course), whereby heatpipes are used. The fluid used in heatpipes has a very low boiling temp, so that it evaporates quickly, travels towards the heatsink-equipped end of the heatpipe as a gas, then condensates back to liquid again and is pumped through gravity or a capillary pump back to the hot zone. It's basically a closed loop liquid cooling system. In a full size liquid cooling system, this principle can also be used. The trick is to do the inverse of a pressure cooker: making the coolant almost boil, but it can't boil because of the closed loop and the automatic temperature limit that is built into every processor. But, while it has as good as reached boiling temperature, the molecules of the cooling liquid will absorbe much more thermal energy, so they will actively cool. The absorbed energy will be dissipated to the radiator when the molecule reaches that. If the molecule has reached a temperature that would allow it to move to gaseous state normally, it will also dissipate it's stored energy much faster than when it hasn't.
It's the same thing as with freezing water: if you put room temperature water in the freezer, it will take a few hours to freeze solid, but if you put boiling water in the freezer, it will freeze in seconds. The reason is that any compound, in order to change it's state, has to use energy, and that energy is thermal energy. You can test this principle at home: you put water on the back of your hand that is exactly the same temperature as your body temperature, and it will feel cold, because it's evaporating, and is drawing thermal energy from your skin. If you put water with alcohol of exactly the same temperature of your body temperature on the back of your hand, it will feel colder, because it evaporates faster, because the boiling point is lowered, thus drawing thermal energy faster.
So applied to the PC cooling loop:
Let's say we want to cool an overclocked Core i5-3570k. At full load overclocked, this chip will have a Tj of 105°C, which is above the boiling temp of pure water, but above 100°C the CPU is throttled, so a baseplate could get as hot as about the temperature of boiling water. So we need an airtight closed loop anyway for this chip because otherwise, the coolant, even if it's pure water, can boil and form bubbles, except when the gas pressure doesn't allow that, and only allows evaporating to the same pace as condensation.
This system is most likely to run at much lower temps than that, but we want to keep it away from 90°C, so we want to boost the cooling performance just before it reaches 90°C. Normally we would do that with a radiator fan profile, but we can also do it with the coolant: by adding enough alcohol to reduce the boiling point of the coolant with 10 degrees celsius, to bring it from 100°C to about 90°C. That necessitates about 30% glycol in the water. Adding the alcohol will also reduce the thermal conductivity, so we can't add too much. Alcohol will also corrode metal, so we can't add too much. Basically, just like in cars, we want to avoid adding more than 50% alcohol. The more alcohol in the water, the lower the boiling point. Here we want to have a boiling temp that is above the normal operating temp, but under the maximum load temp, 90°C. What will happen, is that first of all the coolant will perform about the same at normal operating levels, it evaporates a bit better, thus absorbs a bit more thermal energy, but it's also a bit less thermally conductive. But when the load on the CPU goes up, the coolant will gain in efficiency: as the coolant reaches it's boiling point sooner, it will start drawing a huge amount of thermal energy sooner, and the system will not get as hot.
 
In my experience, adding 20-30% glycol-based high performance anti-freeze (I use high performance motorcycle anti-freeze, because it's made for warm weather and a specific usage scenario, so the manufacturer of the anti-freeze adds nothing that is not necessary, and I use a separate loop for the CPU), lowers the coolant boiling temperature with less than 10°C, which works perfectly for cooling an Intel in a heavy gaming rig, because instead of starting to boost cooling performance at near 100°C, the coolant will start to boost cooling performance at just beyond 90°C. It will have reached its boiling point and the molecules will try to reach a gaseous state by absorbing a huge amount of thermal energy, but they will not be able to form bubbles in the coolant because - even though the molecules will have absorbed all this energy to change state - they will not be able to at a faster pace than the condensation pace in the radiator, because it's an airtight closed loop and the gas pressure can't rise. Modern tubing resist extreme pressures, well beyond the small pressure that will build up because of the evaporating coolant. I get about 2-3°C lower average temperature with glycol+water in comparison to water only myself, so there is a difference. Pre-filled liquid coolers use glycol to boost the performance in this way (or, how to get astonishingly good performance out of mediocre hardware...).
As mentioned, there are a few downsides to adding alcohol to the coolant water. One downside I haven't mentioned yet: alcohol, glycol specifically, breaks down into acids, especially when it's heated for a long time. This causes any water/alcohol loop to become dangerously corrosive to the hardware after about 2 years. And that's thanks to the additives in the anti-freeze that it takes that long to become acid. Even pre-filled PC cooling loops, which contain water and summer automotive anti-freeze, which is glycol with very few additives, mainly anti-acids if anything, will have their coolant become acidic after a good two years, and will break down, unless the coolant is tested and changed to moment it drop down to a pH value of 7. Two years is of course a long time for a custom loop, so it's not really a problem for enthusiasts.
 
The colorants and bling additives for coolants, will not leave a residue. Fancy opaque colorants/bling additives, will definitely leave a gel-like residue (I think it's silicone based by the looks of it), but in my opinion, they will not break anything, an amount of residue is only difficutly avoidable in any loop in the long run. However, silicones are only soluble in acid solutions, which is not a great idea for cooling loops. I have no idea how they solve that. Maybe they don't, maybe it's like shampoo, that's not supposed to be acid either, but it is because of the silicones. And that's the problem with some fancy additives or coolants, you don't exactly know what's in them, it's a closed source coolant lol, you have to trust the manufacturer. I'd rather know what I put in the loop exactly, down to the handful of molecules. That's also why I like glycol-based motorcycle anti-freeze, it's a simple product and I know exactly what it is. Also, anti-freeze is often UV reactive (so you don't need extra bling), and it's highly toxic, so a perfect biocide. An anti-freeze solution will become darker with time, many fancy coolants will not change colour that much.

It says concentrated but not how concentrated, so that's an unknown factor. It also doesn't say what the freezing temp is, which would be the same info but different.
But if you would know the concentration, that would probably be suitable.
 
I'll explain the azeotropic solution thing as soon as I can get behind my keyboard long enough, apparently God and/or Jesus are having some kind of a party today, and you probably all know or can imagine how that goes in catholic families, they all expect a miraculous multiplication of loaves and fish and wine when it's a God Party Day, and I have to cater for that until they all can go home and watch soccer or something. Won't be too long lol, very sorry for leaving you guys hanging a bit longer. Wish I knew what Jesus-event is celebrated today, I'm feeding and entertaining people in my house and I don't know what for lol.

There are three "families" of antrifreeze, because regulations and climate is not the same everywhere, but an antifreeze is basically glycol (or sometimes propanol or even sometimes methanol) and additives. The additives can vary. There are additives based on silicates, but those will do damage in a PC cooling loop, there are also additives based on phosphates, but those are not very environmentally friendly, remains additives based on various organic compounds, which are also the most used for warm weather engines, like motorbikes or racing cars, and that's the good stuff, because with those things, you get all the things you need in a PC cooling loop (anti-corrosives/anti-acids), but none of the stuff you don't need (like lubricants, sealants, frost protection, metal bonding anti-corrosion, etc) But the main thing is still glycol. Alcohol and water together form an azeotropic solution which opens up some nice possibilities for PC cooling. I'll post tomorrow morning what I PM'ed earlier specifically adapted to this thread, but I didn't have time today (just got back home and it's after 2 AM, so it'll have to wait), so please bare with me.

There are three "families" of antrifreeze, because regulations and climate is not the same everywhere, but an antifreeze is basically glycol (or sometimes propanol or even sometimes methanol) and additives. The additives can vary. There are additives based on silicates, but those will do damage in a PC cooling loop, there are also additives based on phosphates, but those are not very environmentally friendly, remains additives based on various organic compounds, which are also the most used for warm weather engines, like motorbikes or racing cars, and that's the good stuff, because with those things, you get all the things you need in a PC cooling loop (anti-corrosives/anti-acids), but none of the stuff you don't need (like lubricants, sealants, frost protection, metal bonding anti-corrosion, etc) But the main thing is still glycol. Alcohol and water together form an azeotropic solution which opens up some nice possibilities for PC cooling. I'll post tomorrow morning what I PM'ed earlier specifically adapted to this thread, but I didn't have time today (just got back home and it's after 2 AM, so it'll have to wait), so please bare with me.

With all respect, but I don't quite understand your post here: so you say that I don't know anything about Windoze (enjoying freedom of speech here, not being disrespectful towards Microstufft) because I don't know how to convey my opinion properly and I'm not a good man. Very sorry, does not compute: instead of specifying what part of my post is wrong by giving the correct facts about Windoze, you formulate an argumentum ad hominem against me personally, although the subject is Windoze versus GNU/Linux? Obviously you know more about arguements and conveying them than me and are the better man, because I just don't understand it: do you mean Windoze is better than GNU/Linux because I can't speak or you don't like the way I talk about WIndoze or Microshaft or Crapple? No harm done, don't worry about it, it's an internet forum, it's not important or anything, and I'm not offended by the ad hominem arguement, but please elaborate on Windoze and what in my post is so wrong and what got you all worked up about it, I would like to read a real to the point arguement.

With all respect, but I don't quite understand your post here: so you say that I don't know anything about Windoze (enjoying freedom of speech here, not being disrespectful towards Microstufft) because I don't know how to convey my opinion properly and I'm not a good man. Very sorry, does not compute: instead of specifying what part of my post is wrong by giving the correct facts about Windoze, you formulate an argumentum ad hominem against me personally, although the subject is Windoze versus GNU/Linux? Obviously you know more about arguements and conveying them than me and are the better man, because I just don't understand it: do you mean Windoze is better than GNU/Linux because I can't speak or you don't like the way I talk about WIndoze or Microshaft or Crapple? No harm done, don't worry about it, it's an internet forum, it's not important or anything, and I'm not offended by the ad hominem arguement, but please elaborate on Windoze and what in my post is so wrong and what got you all worked up about it, I would like to read a real to the point arguement.

As far as I know most games are still 32-bit applications.  It is literally impossible for them to use more than 4GB of RAM by themselves.  If you max out 8GB it's because of your background applications.  Even while gaming with a lot of stuff open the most I've ever hit is 7GB and that was with a memory leak from NVIDIA control panel that nearly 3GB by itself.
 
Games stress mainly the GPU which has its own dedicated RAM, system RAM typically only sees light usage in games.  8GB will be plenty at least for the next 2-3 years at the least, in my estimation.

Maybe it would be nice to further divide this subforum in subfora, e.g. Windows 7, Windows 8, legacy Windows, GNU/Linux+Android x86, GNU/Linux+Android ARM, CPU, GPU, storage, NIC+routers+switches+WiFi adapters, peripherals, etc... because for instance I can help with GNU/Linux troubleshooting, but don't really want to venture into a lot of other things, so it would be nice to have all linux problems together in an overview to save time that could be used for troubleshooting.
 
As a sidenote, I also think it would be nice to have a separate subforum where people can go to get started with GNU/Linux, how to try it to see what DE they like, how to install it once they've decided, how to troubeshoot if there are problems with drivers and steam installs, etc... basic stuff that's not really available in one spot on the Internet anywhere, but would fill a definite need with the way things are evolving.

Clearly you never tried ArchLinux :P

Yes dump Kies, it's like Samsung redefined entropy with that one, and not the good kind of entropy. Use clockworkmod for a full backup with system restore capability or titanium backup if you want to backup select things. The factory ROM is probably also out there on the internet to download, so probably you could reflash the factory ROM if needed. Don't forget to unroot when you're not using root, and don't break any laws by rooting, check if it's OK to root your phone with both the law and the telecom contract.