husseinHr

I just noticed in Minecraft that when the invisible chunks error happened, and I interacted with them, they load back in. But just that chunk I interacted with. Then I pressed R and got the message "shaders reloaded," but then the game crashed with the same error code. Also, I uninstalled Java 371 non-64-bit. Game still ran as usual.

I now set the paging file to 6144 MB (6GB) and have left it at that. Sadly this hasn't fixed the issue, though I thought it helped for a while.

So, I'm stuck here. Minecraft crashes after less than a minute sometimes, or can play for more than 10 mins but then crashes. Especially quickly crashes when modded, but also in vanilla. I attached a pic of the error message. Yes, we've assigned more RAM to Minecraft (10GB). I have the latest NVIDIA driver, did a clean install. I did DDU as well. The whole PC was set up recently, with a clean Windows 10 install. I've tried a different GPU. The one in the PC is a GTX 970 Strix, and I swapped in a GTX 1650 Super, which is much newer. Same problem. So, I don't think it's the hardware. Besides, the 970 runs other games without issue (Red Dead 2, The Crew 2, Phasmaphobia...). gggggg The other game that crashed is Spiral Knights, a game that also runs on Java. But, I have the latest version of Java as well. I have tried using a different monitor. I've disabled GeForce overlay, screenshot softwares, etc. Turned off Xbox Game Bar... Please help SPECS Ryzen 7 1700 GTX 970 Strix ASUS 16 GB DDR4 2133 green cheap RAM Crucial 250GB SSD Sata 320GB HDD 7200 RPM BeQuiet PSU

I've had this thing for years, but now all my apps are gone, including Play Store. No clue why... There's another user on the laptop that does still have all this on it. I've searched the settings a little but didn't find any solutions yet...

In a way, it's up to you to consider the risk. I built my own PC with all brand new parts, but I still have problems with it, just as I may or may not have with a second hand one. Refurb is relatively safe, IMO. You tend to be able to return the item if it's faulty (check the terms). And if you have insurance that covers your tech items, that can give you some real security. Besides, there's always a percentage of brand new laptops that develop problems, and customer support may be crap anyway. For me, I think it's worth it because you get much more for your money. What I built myself with brand new parts for about £1200, I could've bought second hand for £600-800 easy, and from legit users. Refurb, I would've saved less but still saved a lot, and could've spent it elsewhere. Or I could spend £1200 on a used PC and get a real beast of a machine. I tend to regret not going with used/refurb. Benefit of refurb is you can get something rated A+ or a D-, and when buying for your wife, you may want to be specific in your choice. When buying used, you can see the condition and test the product when you get there. I wish you good luck, whatever you choose

Just adding a worthwhile consideration here about buying second hand or refurb to get much more for your money.

This problem starts after using the laptop speakers for a short time, or often when I speed up a YouTube video, for example. That seems to make this worse as well. I tried setting my audio driver to something generic instead of the Synaptics one, but then the earphones wouldn't work at all. So now I'm back on the Synaptics one. There's also SmartAudio3 installed. I don't know much about the problem or why it is happening, unfortunately.

woah, fantastic part lists!

My mother's iMac (5K retina 27 inch. i5, 16GB, 4GB GPU, 2TB Fusion drive) runs similar frame rates to my computer in normal generated worlds. about 160 fps with fancy trees and normal settings. we both have vsync and frame limiters off. why am I getting frames similar to that of a lower spec iMac with a 5K monitor (I'm running 1080p temporarily)...? when I'm building something, I get some tiny little jitters that make no sense to me either. When I fly around a world downloaded from the internet that's got a lot of large structures in it, I get really bad FPS. around 90 and easily lower too. I don't use shaders. I used to play on an MSI GT72 Dominator from 2014 with i7, 16gb, 3GB GTX 870M and 1080p and got better frames on that. I don't know what's going on but it frustrates me. Makes me wonder if other games are being affected, though they don't seem to be running too badly.

Cold Chisel (one of Australia's greatest rock bands) recently released their album Blood Moon, and it's got some really good melodies in it. The opening of Killing Time is very good in my opinion. I like composition and have been playing the violin since I was 9, so interesting melodies are really juicy for me. Jimmy Barnes has a fantastic quality to his voice, which I just love. Lots of other great tunes in this album! Underappreciated for sure if you ask me! What do you think?

It's like I don't know why I have it anymore... it seems wrong. But it's one and two third arm lengths away from me right now and there's nothing I can do about it... so the 100% scale is just tiny for me to read things with. Even 110 is pretty small from here but I get by. 125% is what I tried first but that was just too much lost real estate... As I say, it feels wrong. The reason for buying this was to have the extra real estate and resolution... now it's like a 1080p monitor in sizing almost. But it does kind of feel good too, having thins a bit bigger. There's more space, and it's not so compact. Which I like. But still. Hrmm

Guys, thanks a lot. I checked, and my CPU cooler (stock AMD) works fine, fans spinning and all. The temps are actually fine. 51 c... so nothing to worry about. it's fine gaming too. I think speccy was a bit tipsy. going to use CPUz and HWiNFO64 from now on. I use NZXT CAM too sometimes, which works alright.

Something's fucky. I'm getting annoyed about this stuff. I just don't know what's going on. Also... i don't ever see my CPU reaching a high boost clock in games or anything.

Not too sure of the budget, but under £300 would be perfect. I'd rather buy used because that's more cost-effective. I don't mind buying single parts or stuff etc. The iMac she's using is a 21.5-inch mid-2011 2.7GHz i5, Radeon 6770M 512MB, 4GB 1333MHz RAM that I upgraded to 8GB years ago, and a 1TB SATA HDD. She uses this for media consumption, web browsing and transcribing (youtube and docs open side by side). The main reason for upgrading is the woefully slow HDD and general performance deterioration. Also, my 10yo sister plays Minecraft and Star Stable on the computer and it always looks choppy, which I would like to have fixed! Upgrades I have in mind: SSD! This is the main thing right now. I'm going to need about 500GB SSD. That should be enough as she's only using around 330GB of her 1TB HDD. CPU with at least 4 cores that can handle multi-tasking well. Liking the idea of a Ryzen CPU. Or maybe something like an FX 8350? Not sure at all... help me out! RAM: I would like to get 16GB into it at a good speed, but 8GB will have to do to start with I think in the budget. GPU: Something that can do a decent job of running less demanding games like Minecraft and Star Stable at 60FPS minimum on 1080p. PERIPHERALS: I will need an IPS monitor because she's an artist, and she does care about this. As do I. 21.5"-24" 1080p IPS and close to 100% sRGB. Already got the other stuff.

I have a nice mechanical keyboard that I enjoy typing with. I also have a good Bluetooth keyboard, but I don't want to swap them around on my desk. Can I just use the USB passthrough in my Corsair K65 LUX RGB to enable it to work with Bluetooth or Wirelessly? Basically, I want to type with the mechanical keyboard on my phone. Can it be done?

Edit: I found a Corsair K65 LUX RGB refurbished for £61.99 on Scan.co.uk. What a deal! I found used keyboards at the same price. And this one looks like it's never been used.. and it's certified refurbished!

Absolutely must have dedicated media controls. You know, like the stuff on the Corsair keyboards... Does not need to be a roller and could be buttons. I just need to have the controls. As for key switches I have used cherry MX blue before and I didn't quite like the noise level. I always thought I would like MX brown the best but I'm open to options! But I don't care too much about noise honestly. Better if less but whatever. My budget is roughly... £50-70. I would appreciate a good deal honestly. If you want to go over budget I'm listening. Right now I'm looking to at the Corsair K65 RGB... But usually £110.

Only had this SSD installed. Besides a HDD I had since my last build that didn't show up anywhere. Have since chucked that away because it's broken.

okay i'm going to try this stuff. i usually have 30, 50 or 80GB free. this is a rare occasion. problem has been going on since day 1 anyway so.

Just installed it. Apparently, it runs automatically. Here's a screenshot.

Yeah, on the SSD. It's my only drive at the moment.

Sometimes it'll stutter, sometimes Windows Explorer just goes to 0.25x speed and needs time to think (even right-click sometimes), changing wallpapers takes ages, games seem sluggish (eg, FH4 control response lag), and generally using the PC in day-to-day tasks it just doesn't feel quite like a pretty damn high-performance machine. I really don't know what's going on. I hope this can be fixed. OS: W10 Pro Insider - Version 1809 - Build 17763.437 Specs: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/Hussein.H/saved/nrwfHx (also listed in my signature) BIOS: Gigabyte B450 Aorus M - {"ALASKA - 1072009", "F2", "American Megatrends - 5000D"}

I had/have the Ornata Chroma and regret buying it. It looks okay but the lighting is badly designed (white backdrop sucks for typing visibility) and the switches are awful if you ask me. Terrible to get used to and quite sticky and gummy for mecha-membrane style keys! Just get a mechanical keyboard for the same price. I'm currently typing on a K780 by Logitech (wireless with round chiclet keys) and the typing experience is 100x better. My old Rantopad MXX with Blue switches definitely won the switches competition.

Sounds like I still need to get a VPN to do that. Am I being stupid? I have no clue how to set up my own VPN, if that's even possible - is it?

I can't find anything on Google. Maybe you guys know something? I'd love it if I could set up a VPN from within W10 instead of using a client/app (the free ones I know are slow), but not sure if that's possible. Is it? And if so, how can I do that?