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Abyssal Radon

Member
  • Content Count

    3,515
  • Joined

  • Last visited

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About Abyssal Radon

  • Title
    Veteran
  • Birthday 1995-10-02

Contact Methods

  • Steam
    Abyssal Radon
  • Origin
    AbyssalRadon
  • Xbox Live
    Abyssal Radon

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    United States of America, Colorado
  • Interests
    Computers, Gaming, and Relaxing. I work hard and play harder.
  • Occupation
    Studying Mechanical Engineering and Mathematics at UCD.

System

  • CPU
    i7 5930K 4.0 Ghz
  • Motherboard
    EVGA X99 Classified LGA2011-v3
  • RAM
    16GB DDR4 G.Skill Ripjaws Series 4 2666 Mhz
  • GPU
    MSi GTX 980 Ti Lightning Edition (2x SLI)
  • Case
    Rosewill THOR V2
  • Storage
    500 GB Samsung 960 EVO M.2, 500GB Samsung 850 EVO, 120GB OCZ Vertex 3, 500GB WD Blue, 2TB Seagate Barracuda, 2TB Seagate Constellation, 4TB Seagate Barracuda
  • PSU
    1000W Corsair HX1000i 80+ Platinum
  • Display(s)
    Acer Predator XB271HU & Dell P2715Q (2160p) x2
  • Cooling
    Nice fans and a Noctua NH-U14S w/ 2x NF-A15
  • Keyboard
    Razer Huntsman Elite
  • Mouse
    Razer DeathAdder Chroma
  • Sound
    Corsair SP2500 2.1 Stereo & HifiMan HE400I
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Home x64

Recent Profile Visitors

3,251 profile views
  1. What’s your budget, because based on what you want, you can get any display. Do you want a 1080p, 1440p, 2160p, display? TN, VA, IPS, QLED, OLED, panel technology? 60hz, 120hz, 144hz, 165hz, 240hz refresh rate? It’s hard to recommend something, with the most generic requirements I’ve read/seen on this forum.
  2. 1) Don’t buy a ‘gaming’ headset, just save your money at that point. 2) I bet your going to listen to music besides just playing games, so pick a headset that’s within your budget that’s appropriate for your desire. 3) Sennhesier, HiFi-Man, Audio Technica, companies around that realm is what you should be looking at, not Razer, Corsair, Kingston, ect. 4) Do some homework on your requirements, frequency range, impedance, ect. based on what kind of sound signature you want. Another bit to consider is the way an open/closed pair of headphones sound. 5) Just google around and see what people say/think about the headphones you are interested in, but above all, if something sounds like it tickles your fancy, trust your gut and go for it.
  3. Throughout my under grad years as a mechanical engineering student, Windows was a must for Solidworks/AutoCAD software. Otherwise, most of the software had Windows and Mac compatibility. So it more or less doesn't matter. As a grad student finishing my master's, I use Windows everyday for my work, so I guess you could say it's a personal preference more than anything.
  4. But both products are owned by Dell and are released by Dell’s standards. So based on my experience, I would expect a great experience with the XPS.
  5. Interesting, have they recently been crappy? I mean while it’s not the same kind of hardware, but I’m a happy Alienware 15 owner and that’s a Dell product.
  6. i7 8700K is the first 6c 12t mainstream processor from Intel, it overclocks very well, and for the price it’s awesome. I’m still on a i7 5930K, and don’t plan on upgrading anytime soon. Unless it dies or something.
  7. See I just want better app compatibility, less bloatware, and for goodness sakes MS please add areo glass (the best feature in Vista and 7).
  8. https://www.amazon.com/Razer-DeathAdder-Elite-Mechanical-Ergonomic/dp/B01LXC1QL0
  9. Personally, the Razer DeathAdder is my favorite mouse I have ever owned. I play mostly shooters, but I have high praises for Razer peripherals. The mouse feels good and has great software support. So, I would recommend you to go to a big box store such as BestBuy to get a feel for a variety of mice. Unfortunately its hard to recommend mice because what feels good to me might not feel good your hand. Other than that, the DeathAdder has a high DPI sensor and is my favorite mouse.
  10. So thank you for your input, I ended up realizing that the power wasn't switched on. The adapter that I used came with a AC power converter to molex/sata interface. I didn't notice the tiny power switch near the integrated power supply. I got the data off the drive and thankfully realized that it was a good thing I did so. The hard drive is going out and I managed to recover everything. Now I'm going to disassemble the hard drive, salvage the magnet and drill/dispose the drive.
  11. What would you recommend for a decent IDE to USB adapter? There are a lot and I am obviously failing at this one. Do you think it could be Windows 10 having a signature issue with the drive since it's really damn old?
  12. So I'm trying to extract data off a old hard drive, Windows is not detecting it as a USB mass storage device. I'm currently looking at this: I want to just access the drive without wiping it. Not sure since it's an old interface (IDE), but Windows is throwing a fit. Any help would be appreciated.
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