Smith6612

If it helps any. What Ubiquiti got the most criticism for was discontinuing the Self Hosted capable UniFi Video platform, and migrating everyone to UniFi Protect which requires a Ubiquiti OS appliance of some sort. All of those got some criticism because they didn't implement local login support. Early on some x86 self install builds leaked, but Ubiquiti has since closed the ability to use those. As for the actual hardware, a friend of mine has old UVC-G2 Cameras (from before the U Ubiquiti logo days) still in service, still being managed within the latest version of UniFi Protect. Myself, I have tons of UAP-AC-Pros (Gen2 APs) in service, many of which are several years old. They are still getting regular firmware updates, support WPA3, and all the bells and whistles. Their cameras are a little over-priced but they are fine. The APs are a great deal just given their track record. Their switches are meh, but work. Their routers are improving in the software department, with some odd choices made these days around backplane configuration and CPU power, but they work.

Sounds like the world has been reaching out to them, and it sounds like they have a solution being cooked up! https://www.facebook.com/61552115890779/posts/122133520490070529/ I can't wait to see if this ends up with solid, high quality re-masters being released.

Not surprised. Fall time is rate hike season for the Cable companies. My Internet didn't go up in price this fall, but the ISP I use is taking away their public Wi-Fi hotspot network. The Hotspot network is useful when out and about, although they reduced the connection speed from 50Mbps/10Mbps to 3Mbps/0.7Mbps a couple years ago and haven't raised it since, so they don't seem to care about it much anyways. Although 5G Home Internet will probably be a mess if you use the Internet for anything more than basic browsing and general streaming. A friend of mine has used 5G Internet in two different locations, and it is all over the place in terms of speed, reliability, and latency. It might run at 10Mbps with 600 ping one moment, 300Mbps the next with 60 ping, even if you're located right next to the tower. I guess if the goal is cheap and unlimited, it'll work. Hopefully Fiber comes your way or Comcast knocks it off with those data caps.

If there is no custom firmware available for your router, and the router does not support port remapping (It doesn't), it won't be possible to do this. Generally speaking, if OpenWRT and DD-WRT don't have an image for your router, it's not going to be possible to do this. The only thing I can see online is that some people have done the homework necessary to make it possible to put OpenWRT onto a router like the Tenda AC23, with the Realtek RTL8197FH chipset. However, without an electronics and programming background at hand, it's going to be impossible to get the firmware running. Already by looking at the specs of that router, it won't support any new or modern version of OpenWRT. You're looking at a new router if the WAN port is dead in this case

Two things I'll add to the conversation just in case it helps. Sonoff switches seem to make use of Multicast for discovery on a quick search, and possibly for control. Multicast will cause Wi-Fi to operate at the lowest possible speed (usually 1Mbps) while it is transmitting or receiving such data. To avoid the speed penalty, ASUS has a setting (at least in the ASUSWRT routers I've used) called IGMP Snooping in the Advanced Settings, and this will tell the router to send multicast traffic like it is Unicast (at full speed) avoiding the speed penalty. This helps a lot with wireless performance but, it can also break communication with the devices like your Sonoff switches if they can't handle the changes the setting makes. Give it a try and see how things work if you want. Having the additional Wi-Fi nodes on your network were probably just compounding the effects that sending multicast has on wireless performance, especially if they were wirelessly meshed. The other bit is - avoid the use of Roaming Assistant on ASUS. Roaming Assistant works on the perspective of the client to router signal. If a device enters power save mode, this can cause the router to think it is too far out of range. This is because the client will decrease its transmit power to a lower level that allows it to save energy, but remain connected to the router. When this happens, the router will de-auth the client. Roaming Assistant is basically a "If signal is this weak, forcefully disconnect the client" feature.

So others have mentioned it already. I can explain further. The 2.4Gbps link speed quoted by Intel refers to the theoretical link speed (the PHY speed) the Wi-Fi Card can talk at between an access point at the card. This is determined by the antenna configuration, the standard the card supports (in technical terms, modulation), as well as the channel bandwidth (how much radio frequency) the card is capable of using. This table will be helpful: https://mcsindex.net/ The specs sheet for the Wi-Fi Card will be helpful: https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/sku/211609/intel-killer-wifi-6-ax1650-xw/specifications.html The AX1650w is a 2x2 card (2 Spatial Streams, 2x2 MIMO) and it is capable of operating at 160Mhz channel widths under Wi-Fi 6. Wi-Fi 6 means OFDMA modulation. So using the chart above, we look for the row with 2 Spatial Streams and move to the bottom of that group of rows. We ignore the rows containing only red boxes, as those are not standard speeds. Then we slide over to the column labelled "2x996-tone RU / 160MHz" because we want to figure out the max speed at 160Mhz for a 2 spatial stream card, and we are dealing with Wi-Fi 6 (WiFi 6 vs 6E doesn't matter here... they are the same, just different channels). Going all the way to the right, we see the value "2402.0" which is 2.4Gbps. This is the absolute theoretical maximum the card can link up at based on the specifications from Intel. There are other ways to read the chart to extract other information, but hopefully this helps you understand how the marketing is reaching that number. Now in terms of what you can expect from the card assuming it's operating under the fastest possible conditions that allow it to achieve that 2.4Gbps speed... that will depend. The rule of thumb to Wi-Fi is "Take the theoretical speed and cut it in half" which in this case is 1.2Gbps. This is because Wi-Fi is considered a "Half duplex" medium. Meaning, it can only transmit OR receive at a given moment. However, thanks to advances in technology, Wi-FI can bias the time it spends sending or receiving to speed itself up. This means that it is possible to receive speeds more like 1.6 to 1.8Gbps Wireless on the download or the upload, so long as the other direction (upload or download) is being minimally used. This is why Wi-Fi can struggle when you're playing online games, downloading while streaming to Twitch, or what not, whereas a cable is "Full Duplex" and can send at 1Gbps/2.5Gbps/whatever speed it runs at, in both directions at the same time, and you see the full speed the cable is rated for (minus ~5% due to other reasons...) Now if you are getting 300Mbps on a speed test, this is a pretty typical speed for Wi-Fi. It might mean you are on a WiFi 5 router, are in a busier Wi-Fi environment, or your signal is a little bit less than ideal. Just to name a few possibilities. Wi-Fi is a massive rabbit hole and there is a lot that goes into determining how fast it will actually go.

It's possible, but seems unlikely that a subnet collision would be involved here. Usually that causes a total loss of route that persists. Or drop-outs happen so frequently that the Internet is painfully slow. I'm thinking more along the lines of a firmware update, which usually coincides with things like IPv6 being turned on. If I remember correctly, AT&T used some screwy 6RD/6to4 (yuck!) gateway to implement IPv6 on their ancient DSL and U-Verse DSL network rather than use prefix delegation. 6RD/6to4 is generally asking for problems. Now in the past I didn't speak highly of the 2Wire gateways that AT&T would issue out for U-Verse, as they were quite flaky. Constant problems with them and work laptops with the Wi-Fi, and DNS issues galore with the internal DNS relay. I think AT&T uses Pace or Arris now, and I have no clue how good they are. My local DSL provider is Verizon, and when they switched from using Westell modems (which were arguably BULLETPROOF, never needed reboots and could run for years) to ActionTec and D-Link modems, service quality for customers stuck with those modems went downhill. The ActionTecs had really bad memory leaks in the wireless driver and DHCP daemon, and the D-Links were horrible at maintaining a connection to the DSL network.

Wireless Extenders generally don't get hot enough to overheat bad enough to do that sort of thing. You have to really be trying to overheat them. Now, what MIGHT be happening is your home's router is set to Auto Channel selection mode, and it thinks the Extender is an interference source while it is being used heavily, since the extender will broadcast on the same channel at the same bandwidth as your primary router. When that happens, the router will change the channel, disconnecting your extender from it, and likewise your PC. When your extender eventually reconnects, if it does, it'll come back online until the same scenario happens. Some routers, especially those that I've seen issued by some ISPs like Verizon, will change the channel at any time due to heavy wireless channel utilization, while many other consumer routers only select a channel when they first boot up. A fix for this is to log into your router (not the extender, it will follow...) and make sure the Wi-Fi channels are set to a fixed channel, rather than Auto. The channels you'll want to pick from will vary per region. In the US and Canada, this would be 1, 6, and 11 for 2.4Ghz, and any channel between 36-48, and 149-161 for the 5Ghz. Try this and see if your connection stability improves. Alternatively, if you're able to run an Ethernet cable to where the extender is and put the Extender into AP mode (assuming it has an Ethernet port on it), then you'll improve stability (and doubling performance!) just by doing that.

It can, actually. With PPPoE for example there are keep-alive timers where the authentication information is resyncronized to keep the connection up. When I was using PPPoE based DSL and accidentally ran the WAN with an MTU of 1500, I'd experience similar disconnects after about 10 minutes when running heavy transfers, although on the upload. This was because of IP fragmentation causing the authentication frames to not send properly (and they wouldn't re-transmit). Either my router or the ISP router at the central office didn't handle that correctly while the connection was loaded, and after 10 minutes the connection would drop/get torn down, and my transfer would fail. Similar thing happens with VPNs if the MTU is too high. Which is why they have to figure out the max size for the whole path before bringing up the tunnel. Just thought I'd offer that as a suggestion though!

Amazing! Glad that worked out.

Honestly I would just submit the RMA first thing. If they accept it, you're probably golden. That's a lot faster and easier than trying to figure out laws.

In some states and countries, XFX cannot deny warranty just because the card was purchased from another source. As long as you have a genuine card, and there wasn't any modification made to the card that would actually invalidate it. That would be on them to prove. There are also a number of vendors who sell XFX cards and are authorized to sell them, but don't necessarily appear on their website. For example the small Mom & Pop computer store who also has an online store to keep the lights on. If they seem willing to handle the RMA for you, that's what it sounds like - a board issue. The fans/RGB should be very straight forward to get installed.

On ADSL networks using PPPoE, 1492 is the max MTU that can be used. 1500 bytes for an Ethernet frame minus 8 bytes consumed by the PPPoE headers. AT&T U-Verse if OP is on an "IP-DSLAM" can pass a full 1500 byte MTU. Or if the circuit is REALLY old and uses PPPoA (Point-to-Point over ATM, ick) then it can also do 1500 bytes as ATM operates at a slightly higher MTU than Ethernet. When you start to get into lower MTU values, that usually means your ISP is cellular based, where 1420 tends to be the max MTU for 4G and 5G access since overhead within the cellular network itself chews up MTU. Hope this helps! I used to have an issue where my PPPoE sessions would drop on DSL if I used an MTU of 1500 bytes and also blocked ICMP. Eventually the router itself would start missing PPPoE handshakes and the circuit would drop for a minute. Honestly, when it comes down to DSL and the condition of the wiring in many areas of the US, perhaps the line has degraded. The next time the connection fails due to running a long download, it might be a good idea to log into the modem, and check the logs to see if the DSL is retraining.

You can just connect USB directly to your computer. Every phone and portable hotspot I've used supports USB Tethering. If your mobile modem has an Ethernet port, then hardwiring at least rules out the Wi-Fi as the culprit. The 5G modem probably won't support USB Ethernet adapters so that won't do much good. Mobile and wireless networks are inherently flaky and inconsistent. It's just the nature of how they work.

The only reason I would switch from what you have now to UniFi or, for that matter anything else, is for the ability to use Ethernet backhaul between your main router and the satellite nodes. The Google Wi-Fi mesh systems will have limited Wi-Fi speed when you're connected to the satellite nodes, since they only support wireless backhaul, which in my opinion makes them pointless. That comes with a speed penalty, and you're most likely not going to see 1Gbps on them. The older Google Wi-Fi pucks with Ethernet built-in to them supported Ethernet backhaul, and those could probably accomplish higher speeds. But then again, it depends on how much the wireless bandwidth really matters to you. If it's just used for phones and IoT Devices, and all of your bandwidth intensive things are already hardwired, then maybe save the money until the need arises. UniFi is solid for home use even if a bit pricy for the GOOD stuff.