Theburninbeaver

Hello Everyone, I wanted to start this out with I found the fix. But it took me a couple weeks to diagnose and it was hard to track down so I wanted to make a post here to catalog the issue and the fix for anyone else experiencing the issues. FIX: mine was caused by multiple RGB software's being installed. Uninstall all of them. They are cancer. ISSUE: My system would BSOD with the error code: PFN LIST CORRUPT. At first it seemed random. After taking notes of when it happened, it was most likely to occur when waking up from sleep shortly after signing into windows. And sometimes after opening or closing a game. CONTEXT: The issue started occurring after installing a new 2TB Seagate M.2. I didn't think about it, but I made a lot of changes to my PC when adding in this SSD which made tracking the issue harder. When changing something about your PC, make sure to changes as little as possible so it's easier to track down the cause. My MOBO has x2 m.2 slots. One under the CPU (running off the CPU PCIE lanes) and one near the chipset (running off the chipset/south bridge PCIE lanes). My OS m.2 was in the chipset m.2 because it was easiest to get too originally, and the CPU m.2 was empty. I decided to swap this and put my new Seagate m.2 in the chipset m.2 slot for aesthetics because it has rgb on it.... After installing both in their new m.2 slots, I booted into the BIOS to check everything was good and I noticed XMP wasn't enabled.... Odd, so I enabled it to 3600MHz because months ago I bought new ram. Strange, I thought I enabled that but maybe not. Once in Windows, I initialized and formatted the new m.2 drive and everything was working great. The new m.2 has rgb so I downloaded open RGB to try and get all my RGB to sync together. Didn't like Open RGB so I downloaded Signal RGB. Didn't like that so I downloaded Corsair iCue since that was said to be support the m.2 rgb. Got iCue to sync with MSI mystic Lighting and uninstalled OpenRGB and SignalRGB. All was good. Then the BSOD started happening a couple days later. TROUBLESHOOTING: Thinking there is an issue with the m.2 (since it's the "only thing" I changed) I tried updating my BIOS, Chipset drivers, lan and audio drivers, windows etc. Everything I could find to update, I did. Issues persisted. Tried to see if there was a firmware update on the SSD, none available. Event logs only showed the system would boot up after an unexpected shutdown. So the system was hard crashing without being able to dump a log. Could be a hardware fault but I continued with software fixes. Looked more into the BSOD error and found that it was said to be memory error related. Tried reseating my RAM and took out the new 2TB seagate m.2 SSD. Same BSOD issues. Tried lowering my XMP profile lower and lower. Same issue. I was eventually at stock 2133Mhz memory speeds and the issue continued. I finally made the connection that I also installed a bunch of RGB software at the same time of the change weeks ago. I uninstalled all that cancerous garbage (the fact there isn't a good open source solution sucks). Didn't have a BSOD for about a week. Started to slowly increase my memory speeds back up to 3600Mhz over the course of the next week. It's been solid since uninstalling the RGB software. Looks like that was the cause. I have installed the m.2 back in my system and it's been happy since. Sucks I can't sync my rgb anymore without the risk of BSODs... Event logs: no errors were logged. Only bootup events after "unexpected improper shutdowns" System AMD 5800X3D Be quiet Dark Rock Pro 4 MSI B550 Gaming Plus Corsair Vengeance RS RGB memory Nvidia Gigabye Eagle 3080 10GB Sabrient Rocket Q 1TB m.2 (OS) 2TB Crucial sata SSD 8TB WD Red Pro HDD 4TB Seagate Barracuda HDD 2TB Seagate Star Wars Lightsaber m.2 EVGA 80+ Gold 850w PSU Fractal Meshify C 2

For sure. Personally, I'm okay with buying a more expensive product if the feature set is there. And like you said, a tray with an adjustable keyboard clamp hasn't been done. So I think this product, while being niche, has a wider audience pull than the other products in it's category because of it's universality. I think LTT is good at finding a void and filling it with a product that does what it needs too, plus some. I'd like to see what they come up with. Considering they are working on a gaming mouse, learning about prototyping from that might help a product like this!

Linus mentioned on a recent WAN show that the Rocat couch tray he likes was discontinued and he bought 3 of them because there was nothing else like it on the market. I have also struggled to find a good gaming focused keyboard and mouse pad tray for couch pc gaming. The corsair K63 is the best one but you have to use the k63 keyboard in it and I don't like that keyboard. Online retailers don't seem to have a decent selection of these products either. And the ones they do have are not good IMO. The product needs: To be as slim as possible to cut down on weight so my legs don't fall asleep from the pressure. Big enough for at least a 75% keyboard (some way to adjust to a smaller size keyboard to "clamp" it in place would be awesome.) A large enough mouse pad area that doesn't obstruct mouse movement. (maybe swappable textures for preference?) Ideally a soft touch wrist rest for your keyboard hand but also maybe a detachable plush wrist rest for your mouse at the bottom? (could also help catch the mouse instead of sliding off) Some features that might be cool Chi charging under the mouse pad. (this would require a large battery in the tray so it could charge from that battery which adds weight . Or maybe a power plug on either side that would power the tray as to not add weight with the batteries.) Phone stand at the top with chi charging. (would be nice to have this so your phone acts like a second screen with guides on it ect. Let me know what other features you guys would like to see in an LTT K&M couch gaming tray! If I can edit posts after I'll add the good ones to this list. Thanks for reading

Hello all, I'm trying to tighten my memory timings using dram calculator and thaiphoon burner. But the readings I'm getting in thaiphoon burner do not match up to options in dram calculator. Specifically trying to find the Memory type. I have Hynix chips but are they AFR, CJR / DJR or MFR? The part number has both AFR and CJR in the name but awkwardly separated in []. Also what dram PCB revision do I choose when my revision in thaiphoon burner says A1 which isn't an option in dram calculator. Any help is welcome! My current setup Ryzen 7 1700 Cooler Master MASTERAIR MA620M Cooler MSI B450 Tomahawk MAX (latest BIOS) 2 kits of 2x8GB 3000MHz G.Skillz Tridentz RGB Memory. NOT the NEO GTX 1080ti SSD Bootdrive 750w Gold EVGA PSU

If he enables quick sync the 9900k is faster. So he wants to game and use premier pro. Intel is faster at both. He has the cash so why not go with the best for both. It all hinges on him using quicksync though.

LMAO I'm an Intel fanboy as I write this on my 1700 with a Vega 56. Far from it my dude. But Intel quicksync is seriously good at premiere. Do I think the AM4 platform is a better ecosystem to get into. Hell yeah. But this guy wants to game and edit in premiere and for those two tasks Intel is still faster. He has the money to spend on a crazy build so why not go for the fastest parts for what he wants?

Yeah that's a good build. You're missing a few items from the last list you gave with Ryzen but if you are okay with missing those go for it.

The 9900k is a beast but it comes with the price to back it up. You'll be spending much more on that chip and an accompanying motherboard and cooling than you would with a ryzen build. That's the only issue. Premier loves intel and with the quicksync paired with a 9900k Ryzen doesn't even come close.

Most likely it doesn't If you bought it before 2018. If not you'll have to order one or have them ship one for free. Am4 wasn't a thing before 2017 so anyone that bought a cooler most likely didn't receive an AM4 bracket as retailers were still getting rid of old stock. Check your box to see if you were given an AM4 bracket.

Okay good build. BUT lol you're over $1600. So to get that lower you can go with a $120 B450 board (I like the gigabyte AORUS ATX boards. Solid bios gui, updates and looks as well as VRMs for overclocking). For overclocking and memory support it will be fine for Ryzen 3000. x570 just gives you better memory support for 3600Mhz and higher and PCIE Gen4 which GPUs today cannot saturate. They aren't necessary for the money. Again, harvest your current memory to save $130. And keep the cooler you already have. It'll be plenty for the 3700x. You may need to contact bequiet for an AM4 bracket or they might have one on their website for a few bucks. That should get you closer to $1200. But other than that. The build is solid. Enjoy!

Oh man, I've surprised you want to upgrade already. The 7700k should still work great for you. Maybe not for streaming/recording but rendering using Intel Quicksync that 7700k should still be a decent. So here is the issue. You can go with an AMD build; Something like the 3700x would be faster than your current system at streaming/recording, but with video editing it's iffy. The Quicksync option Intel gives you is VERY fast at accelerating Adobe renders. It's a pain to set up but once it is, there isn't much AMD can do currently to catch up. BUT if you don't want to setup Quick sync switching to AMD would be the best option. It's going to really push that budget to get a CPU, MOBO, RAM, GPU, and Storage. So I'd suggest harvesting the 32GB of ram and buying 8GB to put into your old system to sell. That 32GB of ram is really expensive. Also harvesting the storage would help too. Maybe leave in 1 harddrive or buy a $20 120gb SSD, load windows on it and buy a $5 Windows key on ebay (don't worry, the majority of these keeps are legit. Some over seas retailers just sell extra Windows keys they get on the side. I haven't had one key not work or deactivate yet. Been doing it for years.). pcpartpicker.com is going to be very helpful for you to find parts at a certain budget. I'd suggest messing around in that and sharing a build we can all pick apart ? Good luck!

Wow that's some money lol So yeah a couple things. The index has a pretty intense display setup. Think a bit more demanding than a 1440p monitor. About 4.5mil pixels vs 3.5mil pixels. But you are driving those displays at 120hz. A GTX 1080ti was an okay 4k gaming card but was a pretty great 1440p 144hz gaming card. The 2080 is about the same performance. The 2080ti however is obviously an even better 4k gaming card and a fantastic 1440p 144hz gaming card. IF you want to play those games at Ultra with over 100fps, go with the 2080ti. It's the best you can get right now. The 2080 is a better buy price-performance even though you'll most likely need to turn down some settings. As for the rendering, it's different for everyone's workflows. Depending on how much work you send out, the 3700x is a better price-performance buy. The 3900x is definitely faster though. So if you render most of your work at home, I'd say go with the 3900x. That way you save time rendering and can sneak in some gaming afterward ?

Awesome, thank you!

These suggestions are all over the place lol I'll add to them. Your build is already really good. I'd try to ride it out as long as possible. If the GPU is really frustrating you, then just swap that out. Buy a used GTX 1080ti or upgrade to an RTX 2080 (roughly the same performance) and sell your current 1080ti. You shouldn't loose to much money that way. Going with a 2080ti is nice if you have the money to blow but to me it's a waste of money because it looses so much value when the next generation arrives. A nice sweet spot is $300-500 range where you get really good performance but when the new GPUs launch you only loose like $100-150 of value on your GPU. But either way, solid build that I personally would stick with for a while.

I don't agree. The 770 is about 50% faster overall and in newer games with dx12 and Vulkan it's double the performance. The 770 for $65 is a good deal if they don't want to spend close to $100 but the RX570 is definitely faster and in newer games it's worth it. GTA V will run great on either. But if you CAN spend the cash, do it. When you upgrade the rest of your build your GPU will be in a better spot. Paring it with a R5 3600 in the future would be really good.