MrDavid

Pics of new parts added!

I am a Computer Programmer It looks like the sata cables are going to be hidden by the graphics card on my new motherboard, and as for the combs, I don't want to have the cables trained. To me i think that they sort of symbolize my life. Things are nice even though it may be crazy at times.

I had the same issue, luckily a 240 or 480 no longer completely breaks the bank

Seeing this makes me excited for my parts coming!

Looks pretty solid, same price for a better machine. Seems like a no brainer

Welcome to LTT btw!

Pics or it didn't happen!

Reserved for new parts pics And here they are!

Back in 2013 when I was new to this whole PC building thing. I built an over the top (at least in my eyes) system that kicked every game I threw at it in the face. But time has changed her, She's almost not even the same PC anymore. I recently have ordered a 6700k, a Maximus IX Hero and 2x8 Corsair Vengeance LPX 3000 Mhz DDR4 RAM. After these parts have been received and installed, the only thing that will remain from the original system is some fans and the power supply These are the original specs: (brackets explain replacement stories) CPU: Core i7-3770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (361.59) (it up and died one day, system wouldn't post at all. wasn't much of an overclocker anyways; could only get 4.2 stable. The replacement could do 4.6 without a single stutter) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($40.00) (Replaced with h100i gtx cuz why not - acquisition of cooler explained in Graphic card section) Motherboard: Asus Maximus V Formula EATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($250.00) (Warranty - DOA first pci slot had issues. The system would BSOD when attempting to install the graphics drivers but was fine with the card in the second slot) Memory: Corsair Vengeance 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($252.00) (Warranty - One stick started throwing errors which I wouldn't find out until replacing multiple parts later) Storage: Samsung 840 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($110.00) (Replaced with 480 GB RAID 0 array which is later replaced with a single 480 because I thought that one of the raid drives died, but in reality was just the faulty ram that wrecked the array - I found capacity to be too low for my workflows which make lots of use of appdata which apparently needs to be on C) Storage: Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($165.00) (Replaced with WD Black - I thought that this drive died, and who knows, maybe it did; turned the *dead* drive into coasters #worth) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 780 3GB Video Card ($770.00) (Replaced with GTX 1070 - Assetto Corsa came out and iRacing released some new more demanding tracks and graphics effects so I started the hunt for more performance. started with watercooling and overclocking the card with an hg10 and h100i gtx but that didn't yield the results I wanted. Tried my brothers R9 Fury for a while as he needed some cash, but the driver was too buggy with my cursor disappearing all the time in games and getting garbled in windows) Case: Cooler Master Storm Trooper ATX Full Tower Case ($280.00) (Replaced with Corsair 400C - I found this case too large after a while. While I enjoyed the fancy gamer aesthetic for a short while, found that the crevices and mesh was hard to clean, which left the system looking a little less than good. Also Cooler master seems to be addicted to soft touch plastic which is both an animal hair and dust magnet) Power Supply: XFX ProSeries 1050W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($155.00) Optical Drive: LG BH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($75.00) Keyboard: Cooler Master Storm Trigger Wired Gaming Keyboard ($70.00) (Warranty replacement with TriggerZ as the trigger was discontinued but later replaced with G910 cuz RGB which is later replaced with a K70 Speed as I missed the cherry switches - This keyboard had a removable usb mini b connector that broke and I had to fight with cooler master to get replaced. I will never buy another cooler master product again after dealing with their support) Mouse: Cooler Master CM Storm Sentinel Advance II Wired Laser Mouse ($55.00) (Replaced with G700s which was later replaced by a G502) Other: NZXT Hue RGB LED Controller ($30.00) Total: $2613.59 This was the what it looked like when It was completed. It was a purpose built racing/editing rig Some other interesting things that I did with this Machine: Install Mac OS. I actually bought a 2 TB SSHD from Seagate. Learned a lot about UNIX systems and different filesystems. It also brought me back up to date with the OS. Fun fact: my first PC was a PowerMac G3 Configure Raid. I ran 2 240GB ssd's in raid 0 for about a year Running VM's The System as I write this article (Stories for the reason of replacement in original parts list above) CPU: Intel Core i7-3770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($361.59) CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i GTX 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($137.85) Motherboard: Asus Maximus V Formula EATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($250.00) Memory: Corsair Vengeance 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($252.00) Storage: PNY CS1311 480GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($189.00) Storage: Seagate 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Hybrid Internal Hard Drive ($136.80) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Black 4TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($264.99) Video Card:EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB SC GAMING ACX 3.0 Black Edition Video Card ($523.98) Case: Corsair Carbide 400C ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.98) Power Supply: XFX ProSeries 1050W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($155.00) Keyboard: Corsair K70 RGB RAPIDFIRE Wired Gaming Keyboard ($179.00) Mouse: Logitech G502 Wired Optical Mouse ($60.00) Other: Some random cheapo rgb lights whose controller I am not satisfied with ($30.00) Total: $2650.19 This is what it looks like now. This is the setup that it powers

bump

Yes, download an iso and create bootable media (you could use rufus, its a free tool for making a bootable disc). Save your user information. (I would just copy the whole users folder) and then boot from usb and choose your hard drive, you should get a prompt that mentions the windows.old

I had this problem, I had to reinstall windows. Luckily all my data is on a different drive. I'm pretty sure that windows can be reinstalled to the same drive without wiping it. A lot of stuff would be moved to a folder called Windows.old

Or maybe I could hold the whole panel on with magnets. Neodymium of course.

Just width and height. The hinges that are on the plastic door appear to be removable. I'm thinking that a mounting hole that lines up with the holes in the glass might work, and then I could use magnets to hold the door closed.

I get that it will take some modding, hence why I posted it in this sub-forum, and I have some ideas, none of which involve a rubber-chicken and a mallet

Hey all, I have a 400C and I want tempered glass. I don't particularly favour the idea of getting a whole new case to get it, also I don't like the 460X's front panel. I can buy a glass panel from Corsair for 40 USD. I was wondering if someone who has a 460X might be able to measure their side panel's width and height. I just want to make sure that the panels from the two cases are, in fact, the same size. Thanks

This tutorial disables the automatic installation of apps like candy crush, if the tutorial doesn't already cover this http://winaero.com/blog/stop-windows-10-anniversary-update-from-installing-candy-crush-and-other-unwanted-apps/

I didn't even notice that the window was custom, it turned out so well that I thought it came like that! Funny thing is, I built my aunt's computer in this case.

I love that you added that 24 pin extension, a few bucks but really make a difference in the appearance!

I would buy one that comes up when you search it on http://www.dd-wrt.com/site/support/router-database That way you can deal with any software issues that you may have with it and you can make your decision based on the hardware specs of whichever units you look at. That being said, if you do want to run that firmware on whichever one you buy, check for known issues with it and the model that you choose. i.e. I bought a Linksys wrt3200acm and while the software fixed the UPnP NAT issues that I had been dealing with, It introduced wifi issues. luckily that can be fixed in an update though

Allo! I work for Uverse Fiber (Gigapower) and I have a pretty good understanding of how that system works. Its fiber into the GPON then its supposed to be cat 5e gigabit to your ONT port (red) on the RG (5268AC). The LAN ports are supposed to be Gigabit. I can tell you that the minimum acceptable speed for the 1G/1G connection is supposed to be 600Mbps down although I'm not sure about the upload speed, I do know that it is supposed to be over 100Mbps When I am at work tomorrow I could look at the throughput from the ONT to the RG for you

Most people don't as they don't typically have gaming ports such as 3074 in use by multiple users on the same network at the same time. If you google destiny NAT type you'll come across tons of people having issues when the try to run two systems on the same network together. last night my roommate was playing rainbow Six siege on his Xbox with his friends and I was trying to play ghost recon Wildlands with my friend. He had a moderate connection and I had strict. I restarted the modem and my network adapter and my whole system a number of times before getting a moderate NAT. I had similar issues when my friend came over with his Xbox for us to play destiny together and I am just done fighting with that. With this new modem, the NAT type was open on all devices without any trouble at all

tl;dr : My internet speed doubled when I setup my new router running dd wrt firmware, I wanna know how I might be able to limit the speed if Bell gives me trouble about it. i.e: what types of settings would do that I have Bell Fibe internet 150/50 with the Home Hub 3000. I was becoming increasing frustrated with the poor implementation of UPnP on the home hub always leaving me with a strict NAT (Roomate is constantly gaming), so I did some research and found that the custom firmware DD WRT has amazing upnp. So i went to my local best buy and bought the only router that they had in stock that is officially supported by the firmware; The Linksys WRT3200ACM. The connection was simple, I plugged the included ethernet into the wan port of the Linksys and the other end in the lan port of the Home Hub and plugged my pc into the lan port of the Linksys, disabled the WIFI on the home hub and input the PPPoE login information. Bam I'm online! But heres the weird thing: Normally with the home hub, my speedtest would give me 190/60 (Which is more than fast enough to do what I want to do.). With the Linksys I get 340/120. If Bell notices this, and decides to contact me about it claiming that I'm stealing internet, I want to know how I could limit my speed back to 190/60.

When my pc did this, it was my processor and I had to replace it. If all you need is the old files, I would just take the hard drive out and put it in your new PC

Improve the airflows! manage that shiz!