HEXiT

Cpu: i7 920@3.5ghz Gpu: msi gtx 970 stock Ram: 12gig ddr3 1333 Score: 6.9

1 question. the mouse wheel spindle, is it metal or plastic?. as it will have a serious impact on the longevity of the mouse.

actually no... actually no... a p4 would be perfectly capable of handling an ssd. its motherboard on the other hand.... (no sata support) the only thing that i know can bottlenck an ssd is the sata port/controler on the motherboard. it has nothing to do with the which cpu your running.

saying as your already into buying junk. http://www.razerzone.com/gb-en/gaming-audio/razer-carcharias-for-xbox-pc they have pretty good sound but are fragile. if you want something a little more robust with decent sound for gaming... there not brilliant but are better than razers own designs. http://www.razerzone.com/gb-en/gaming-audio/licensed-headset-range if you want good sound and are willing to forgo a mic (add a boom mic seperatly) http://en-us.sennheiser.com/monitoring-headphone-studio-professional-audio-hd-380-pro

not quite mate. the big jump happend with the first gen i5/i7 with a 40% performance bump over the previous gen core 2 duo/quads. after that the actual performance gains clock for clock have been about 3-4% each gen. but your right in saying intel have stagnated.

id say keep the 2500k as the outlay for a new cpu isnt worth the performance gains. you would be lucky to get 100 for it and you would be looking at x2 that to get a comparable replacement. the 2500k is no slouch, it will give every bit the gaming performance of a newer ivy/haswell/broadwell in gaming. seriously... (i run a earlier 920 and my 3d marks and fps are pretty much on par with builds that contain much newer cpu's ) and will in no way bottleneck a single or sli gtx 970 config.

mate there are plenty of second hand options out there and for the budget thats your only real option to get some grunt on the cheap. i just sold my hd 5870 for £50 (about 75bux) and i think the guy overpayed. if you can find something similar then go for it. amd or nvidia it doesnt matter as long as it has some midrange grunt. 100-150 will get you a brand new gtx 960

gtx 970 and i cant say im that impressed. upgraded from a hd 5870 which was modded with an arcticool 5870 extreme. it ran maxed out at 46'c and had zero fan noise. when i say zero i mean you couldnt hear unles you were within 6 inches of it and even then it was just a low woosh of air flowing over the blades. now im stuck with this supposedly quiet msi frozer v which is throwing off 36db at load with a gpu temp of 70+'c then we have the nvidai drivers. i have had 4 sets of drivers downloads since i installed it a little over 2 weeks ago. i much prefer the 1s a month releases amd were doing. also whats with all these needless services being auto run at startup. i dont have a 3d screen and i dont use shield but i have no option to forgo them and just download the gfx driver. fact is the only thing i like about the card is the less vibrant pallet which lends itself to better photorealism.

if you think a 20% oc is worth the extra 1-2 fps on a game thats already producing 60+ then go for it. the reality is very few games benefit from overclocking the cpu. so yeah get the none k part and get a better gpu.

if gaming is the priority then the 4790k is the best option as for the ram crucial do an led series called "tracer" ram. just get the lowest latency ddr3 1600/1866 you can afford. as for the motherboard you cant really go wrong with an asus rampage but if your only going with 1 gpu and dont intend buying stuff like m.2 sata ssd's then just go for a board that has full speed 1 pci-e 16 slot rather than an sli or xfire board.

something to ruffle a few feathers... i7 920 d0 @3.3 msi 970 frozer v 12 gig ddr3 1333 250gig ssd (evo) my 3dmark. http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/7235208

the G400 is a cheap mouse so its hardly surprising that it does cut corners on some aspects of quality. but the reality is it doesnt scrimp on the sensor and LMR microswitchs which means very good response and control... the real shame is they dont use the sensor in some of there more quality orientated mice. for me its the best £20 mouse you can find. the negatives shouldn't put you off because you wont find a better mouse if you added another £10 to the budget. certainly nothing with a laser will come close at £30 thats for sure.

have you ran chkdsk lately?

first open the case and check the wires. make sure that the gpu is plugged into the top most pci-e slot on the motherboard. connect the monitor to the gpu output, not the 1 attached to the motherboard. boot the system and go into bios look for the pci-e settings and set it to peg 1 or what ever is used to set the gfx to the first pci-e slot and disable cpu/gpu at the same time. save and quit. reboot and hope you see a signal on your monitor.

go into the ccc panel and load the default profile also disable amd overdrive and see if that stops the blurring. i have occasionally had the blurring effect in apps like twisted brush where the text would start sorta clear and as soon as i moved my mouse then blurr up again when the mouse stopped moving.

nope im very light touch with my kit. if i wasnt i would have picked cherry blacks over the cherry reds i currently use on my keyboard. as fo cardinal sins of there keyboards. there is 1. there gaming matrix. it actually breaks key roll over when your not on the wasd keys. to the point the keyboard will stop reading key combos after 3-4-5-6key presses. i much prefer a keyboard with full nkroll and you wont have any issues.with key combo blocking.,

windows 7 wont work on it at all. the hardware doesnt support the high precision events timer that a lot of the new windows stuff needs to function. as its hardware based it cant be emulated properly so any system that trys to run it without the supporting hardware will just bsod constantly. the only o.s you will get to work are the older 1s between xp and win 95. you will first need to clear out the hdd and get it back to raw. because windows 7 uses a slightly different MBR (master boot record) to that of xp so if you try and install xp on an hdd that had win7 on it you will get a failed boot. so remove all partitions and boot of an xp disk not a usb. when your give the option create a new master partition table with only a single primary partition. format it(quick will do) and install. if all goes well windows should start up straight away... but be away windows xp is eol so you are gonnna run out of security updates sooner rather than later. when this happens you dont ever want to use that pc to online bank or do anything requiring secure access.

yes there free as far as money goes but not free as far as my time. i have to give a written review and as im dyslexic its a bit more difficult for me than most. so i have to spend a good hour or 2 on what would take a none dyslexic person a few minutes to write. i also have to try the mouse for a couple of weeks before giving my opinion. so like i say by the time im finished a review they have gotten there moneys worth out of there review sample. they send me a mouse every few months. this month they sent 2 and next month they will send there 5000dpi gaming mouse a month before its released to the public.. how did i get this gig? i signed in 1 day on toms to find i had a pm from anker asking me to test there 8000dpi mouse. they had been watching me for a while and like the fact i was straight up no b.s. approach to helping people, without being bias to 1 product brand or another.

at this price your not paying for high art. lol... its just a functional gaming mouse thats very cheap but works well.

there are a lot of people who dont like razer because for the most part there build quality isnt the best. they claim omron switches in there mice but they seem to break very easily while other manufacturers use the same brand and last 5+years. for the most part most people i have talked to about razer say they wont be buying a mouse or keyboard from them again. about 50% of them do and again wish they hadnt. so while razer may sell a lot of mice compared to other manufacturers they also have a very high fail rate and very poor customer satisfaction, to me razer are the pc equivalent of the xbox 360 rrd except razer give a much harder time trying to rma stuff. razer stuff i owned... lachesis (broke in 7 months) deathadder (orginal still working) carchararias (broke 4 weeks after purchase, rma and took 4 weeks for a replacement only to break 8 months later). destructor mat. (every razor mouse i have tried on it scrapes across it like its on sand paper, but every other brand glides across it like glass).

check the caps on the motherboard. are they slightly swollen or leaking? as for the constant bsods and fresh installs.sounds like the hdd is borked. also do you know what the error numbers were on the bsod... we will ned the 0x0000000 error number and error text.

try using talcum powder, a very fine layer can act like a lube, but because its dry it wont attract dust.

looks to me like you didnt partition the hdd properly. check in windows manager to see if the used space is actually unallocated raw disak space if it is then you can either expand the volume or delete the partition and create a new bigger 1 with a fresh install of windows.

if its new then send it back in the original packing asking for a refund as it didnt meet your expectations.

here you go guys i added some visuals.