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ThatWesleyGuy

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  1. Yea, that's why i said i was 99.999% sure it was out only. I'm looking for some kind of adapter (USB, Thunderbolt) that can do HDMI in and some software that can display it.
  2. So, my crappy 26" sanyo HDTV i bought used about 6+ years ago finally bit the dust. And while TV shopping it struck me "I already have a pretty nice 17" display on my laptop... Why do i need to buy a new TV?" For the record, this is for my room (when my roommates are in the living room watching something stupid.). So a 17" screen would be fine for me. So i'v been trying to find a solution to get a HDMI signal INTO my laptop, so i can plug my dish box directly in and tada. Problem is, i really cant find any hardware/software. I have an HDMI port (Though i'm 99.999% sure its out only), thunderbolt, and a couple free USB 3.0 ports. Using an Asus G75VX laptop. Any suggestions? (That cost less than a new TV, lol)
  3. So, i recently bought a used Asus G75VX off ebay, but a fresh copy of windows 8 on it, cleaned it out (The fans were FILLED with dust), but.... I can't figure out what the GPU is doing. Its working perfectly, better than perfectly. According to http://www.notebookcheck.net/NVIDIA-GeForce-GTX-670MX.82603.0.htmlthe Gtx 670MX clocks in around a 3700 (3dmark 11 Performance, 720p) with a clock speed of 600 mhz, and a memory speed of 2800 mhz. However... Mine scores a... little higher... Almost double that 3700 3dmark 11 performance score. But there are numbers that don't match, and i'm just wondering whats going on, lol. Here is a screenshot of my card with MSI afterburner running at "stock" speeds: Screenshot of MSI afterburner running after applying a small overclock: 3dmark 11 Performance 720p score, stock: http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/9651195 3dmark 11 Performance 720p score, OC: http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/9651225 On both stock and overclock, idle temps are about 50-53, and in-game temps are about 65-75 (Depending on the game). The card throttles at 90 (Learned that before i cleaned the fans). So why is my card scoring so much higher, and why is the memory speed reading so much lower in 3dmark?
  4. I will definatly do that, thanks for the suggestion. Looks like they are $250 right now on amazon. Never heard of them before, that's why i figured i'd post on a site like this before just buying a pair
  5. This is where i add the "I'm by no means an audiophile" part though. My UE 6000's use to be listed on that website as one of the top 10 closed back headphones (in passive mode). But personally, i didn't like them that much in passive mode, i loved them in active mode, where they were called "garbage".
  6. I'd be willing to trade a bit of bass just for the fact that i woulden't have to bother with the headphone amp on the DJ's. (Already long cable, plus another cable going into a box you have to keep charged = pain). Portability isn't a real issue for me, as usually when i travel, its not far (as in i drive there, i've never been on a plane before, lol).
  7. I'm in the market for a new pair of headphones, i use to own a pair of Logitech UE 6000's and loved them (in active mode). I could tell that they were no where near as clear as passive mode, but i just loved that thump. Not only just the sound, but the feel of the headphones vibrating my inner skull. I listen to just about everything (mostly rock though, like Halestorm, Avenged Sevenfold, ACDC, ect...). But i also enjoy me some taylor swift, some paramore, evanenensce (i can never spell that right), and here lately, i've been addicted to this song: Anyway, i've been looking at 3 pairs of headphones. the Sennheiser DJ 8's, the Sennheiser Urbanite XL's, and the Vmoda M100's. Right now, its a close fight between the DJ 8's and the M100's. The urbanites are just a though. I own a Fiio 6 portable headphone amp for home use with the DJ's, but traveling they'd be used straight off my iPhone 5s (Plus when i forget to charge it). I also have all my music stored as 320 Kb/s compressed MP3's. I am by no means an audiophile, but i am a music addict, and want it to sound good (to me). Does anyone have any feedback on any of the headphones i'm lookin at? And hopefully comparisons to the UE's i use to own? Or perhaps a different set of headphones? The only real requirement is that they be over the ear. I hate on ear, and i'm not a fan of in-ear. Anyway, thanks for reading my thread, and thanks in advance for any replies
  8. Made a few small changes to that, and i REALLY like it. Went with a IPS display, changed the ram to basic crucial, went with a seagate HDD, added some aftermarket thermal compound, was going to go with a cheap mechanical keyboard, but after reading amazon reviews, i think i'll stick with the one you selected. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: AMD FX-8320 3.5GHz 8-Core Processor ($143.30 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($33.03 @ Amazon) Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste ($6.74 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-970A-UD3P ATX AM3+ Motherboard ($84.99 @ Newegg) Memory: Crucial 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($68.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: MSI Radeon R9 290 4GB TWIN FROZR Video Card ($259.99 @ Amazon) Case: Corsair Graphite Series 230T Black ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Rosewill Capstone 750W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($63.00 @ Newegg) Monitor: Acer H226HQLbid 60Hz 21.5" Monitor ($119.99 @ Newegg) Keyboard: Corsair Raptor K40 Wired Gaming Keyboard ($57.99 @ Amazon) Total: $978.00 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-11-01 15:14 EDT-0400 $994 before any rebates. EDIT: Looks like i can switch the GPU to newegg for the same price, and get some free games too. Thank you to everyone who posted I think this is the setup i'll go with though.
  9. I know it worked on the laptop once when i grabbed a fresh ISO and reformatted it. And if it didn't, this is one scenario where i would make it work, considering i own a legit copy of 7 Pro that will never be used again. (For the record, i am against piracy. Whenever someone asks me "How do i get windows for free?", i always reply "That's not a good idea, but theres this one OS called Ubuntu that i can get you thats pretty nice for general use"). That build looks really nice as well. Any idea if the CPU cooler will clear the ram though? Looks like one of those big ones.
  10. How about the stock CPU cooler though? Assuming i don't live in the middle of the desert, does it get the job done?
  11. I'll put that setup into consideration, thanks! Would the stock processor cooler be enough though? Obviously i won't try to overclock it, but is it decent?
  12. Thanks for the suggestion, that brought the price down a little
  13. So, i've been buying gaming laptops for a while now because of convenience, and when my last one died (bad mobo), i thought to myself "I've always wanted to build my own rig". I'm a pretty big computer enthusiast (nerd), and have diagnosed/fixed many of my family/friends computers. So, i set out to build my own, with a few rules. 1. A budget of around $1000 (or less) 2. I already have a mouse (razer naga) 3. I can steal my win 7 pro CD key off the back of my old laptop. 4. Using PCpartspicker, i only want to use newegg and amazon. (Instead of ordering from 20 different sites). So, i came up with a rig: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/wTjY23 I don't know a whole lot about cases, but i knew the Cooler Master HAF series was good, so i went with one of those. I'm worried maybe the PSU cables won't reach everything. I originally had a cooler master CPU cooler as well (Air cooler). But i was afraid that my RAM wouldn't clear, so i bought a cheap pre-looped water cooler. I also just picked a display based on reviews. Mainly, im looking to see if there are any minor adjustments that can be made for better performance, or to get closer to that $1000 mark (not counting rebates). I was also wanting feedback on the component selection. (Like this CPU is 20% better and about the same price, or Thats not a very good mobo, may i suggest X, or "You'll need 2 extra SATA cables/fans/ect). Anyway, thanks for taking a look at my thread, and any feedback is appreciated.
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