thrasher_565

there discontinued so you have to find it on the used market. ebay, local buy and sell so on.

1080 were relesed at the height of mining so who knows what the real price would have been. at times they were like $1200 and just before the 2080 came out people dumped em for like $200 then raised back up to about $400ish

i looked at manufatur model numbers and they some times match the docs and some times dont... so its hit and miss. pluse if you google a fan model number and get nothing then what i looked at this long time ago looking got the best server fan as alot of people said there cheap and good but could not provide a model of witch were good and witch can be under volted... so i looked up alot of fans have to doc somewhere but all came down to the gentle typhoon at the time. but i dint want to spend $20 a fan. looked in to alot of fans on rads and the debate of $20 fans vs $5 fan and a thicker rad. the money spent on more rads was better then more on fans. more cooling per doller. if you have the space. and rads got REAL THICCC back in the day like 120mm thick +25mm shroud cuzz why not + 25mm fan 2x 2 for puch pull and your at a eye watering 220mm rad.... not to include the tfc 55mm fans... thats were then 30mm thick rad was stander as wit worked best with cheap fans. (now a days 27mmish...) then the market changed. no more did people compare specs for profromance. and alot of reviewers lost there jobs. this made it so company's are not competing witch each other so everyone can have products not just the top ones. thats why there like a million fans these days and they make so much moeny everyone wants fans on the market. its like 99% prophet. anyway...

older hardware works better with older stuff because the games were built around it. not saying new stuff cant play old stuff. so it will be a game by game problem.

there people that buy stuff from miners or miners reselling it. but seems like a good deal. thow wth happened to the cables...

kpx is the best i be leave... but $$$

back in the old days they use to make console water blocks but they dont make em any more as far as i no so its be all diy and diy mounting. cutting drilling. i think they made a ps3 sling block if i remember once a pwan a time even lian li made an xbox 360 case... extremely rare to fine thow...

ok ill exsplane a bit more incase others read this. so the power switch is a monetary switch meaning you push it in it completes the cercet. when released it brakes it. so its on for a second. that sends small amount of power thow the mb and crosses ground to the green 24pin on the psu witch turns its on. this dule psu atx cable dose the same thing when the green wire from the first pc turns on it also sends power to the second psu also turning it on. or you can split the power cable and send it to 2 pcs i would think that be just fine... or use the rest switch for the other pc. or other ways of powering it on like pcie card and remote or pci slot button or a 5.25 bay switch or drilling another hole and adding another switch some were or a desk button. posably there a way to turn it on from lan but i have no idea how that works beleave is wake on lan in the bios.

any specs cant be compared because w/e on the box is made up so... good old 69 cfm... 4.20 h20... still waiting for gn to do his testing... 140mm is comparable to 120mm because even if it has less sp it has more surface area to make up the difference. coolers and how well they do at cooling depnds on what cpu its cooling and were the hot spots are located. a cooler center over the hot spot is best but if the hot spot in not center on the cpu then what do you do...

problem with modren is the parts are normally way hotter and not being able to cut most of the outside leave cooling a problem. ya you can put cooler modren stuff in them but most dont... not only that a problem of even fitting a gpu... but we will just have to see i guess

https://www.amazon.ca/Traodin-Cables-Supply-Adapter-Motherboard/dp/B08TWH88M8/ref=sr_1_6?crid=S0A6QHIOYI4N&keywords=dual+atx+psu&qid=1704334343&sprefix=atx+psu+du%2Caps%2C151&sr=8-6 i dont see why you cant just split the power button cable to power both on

there an atx pus cable the turns both on, or you can use the reset button for the other system.

nice i have a xp build going trying to get a titan x for it 960 will have to do i guess. also looking for more ram not that it needs it

-10 for cable management other then that is ok i guess

a pc is there to be used or whats the point? i guess in theory if you dont use it it will last longer other then like pcb rot. but by that time you have something better or have dementia and not care no no what a pc is... people with normal uses have pcs run passed 20+ years... would the smaller dys make it last less probably. but i mean it will get you to 5 to 10 years no problem... so...

its debatable on witch is the "best fan" Wings 4 PRO hi speed is probly the best 140mm fan thow thrmalright 140mm fans are about the same at a cheaper cost... t30 is probly the best 120mm fan but i dont like the switch for speed but if your want it quiet your going to be under 2000 rpm any way. thrmalright Thermalright TL-B12 is a dame good fan at its price. imo. 6 year warnty, detachable cable, think it comes with rad screws best noctua fan is the nf-a12x25 in the front out the back and top.

some gpus seem to have it more often. nothing can really be done amount it other then trying to cap fps in hi fps games. more fps the more wine it makes. its not a defect for it cant be a warranty thing. other then selling it / trading it for another you have to live with it... a sold front case could i guess help a little with sound a bit.

mint my oc failed...

all usb fans are 5v unlees ther use a buck convertor ot have less amps but more voltage.

the controller conetes to usb and uses lian li sofware. also i think it dose pwm as well.

ya when it first came out it was broken. and there still is alot of stuff that dose not work and mixing them also can be problematic. that and it basically bloatware... and the options are limited. considering we should be albe to do anything with it but they just give the bare minimum.

bottom mount fans are less common and most cost a bit more. Fractal Design case are good quality form what i heard so its worth the price. having 3x 140mm fans on the bottom and top are also a bit more rare. having 2x fans would make the case shorter. Fractal Design also have case that are different sizes too. new egg and i think pc part picker i think you can shertch case for bottem fans thow on pc park picker it will aslo list case the are dc so can be a bit confusing and some time the info is not right... Antec Performance 1 FT can do 3x 120mm on the bottem 3x 140mm on top but think it cost a bit... Phanteks Enthoo Pro 2 3x 120mm on the bottem 3x 140mm on top not a small case thow Lian Li Lancool 216 2x bottem fans Lian Li LANCOOL II MESH 2x bottem fans Lian Li Lancool III 3x bottem fans cost thow Lian Li O11 Dynamic XL 3x 120mm or 2x 140mm lian li evo 2x bottem and top the mount is janky thow... Segotep T1 kinad 3 front 3 back? Antec Performance Series P120 Crystal can do 3x140mm on the bottem but no top and no front just side. ASUS TUF Gaming GT502 can so 3 and 3 im gussing 120mm fans Thermaltake CTE C750 Air can do the most but its a side mb and the pannals dont attach... (i have this case) big case thow... Thermaltake CTE T500 bit smaller Thermaltake CTE T500 TG LIAN LI PC-O11

so as long as ground gos with ground voltage with voltage and data with data you just have to find or make adaptors to connect em. but difrant fans have difrant amount of leds in them and serten anamations are set up for a set amount of leds and having more or less leds can brarake the anamation. uni fans have there own controller witch would be best for the anamations for em, but if you dont care and want like a solid color or a random rainbow then dose not mater so long at the conteoller can power all the leds. some anamations have a set amount of leds. like say one is set for 60 leds and you have 100 leds strip once it gets to the 60 leds it will loop back to the first led. if your talking about hooking argb to rgb no that cant be hooked together.

probably only need one fan in the front and one on the cooler hard to say if you need an exhaust fan. but it would be ideal if both front and cooler fan were the same or simulator in specs.

you want the front full of fans and 1 back fan and posably a top back fan. and fill any bottem fans. i dont see a gpu listed and depneds on cooler for cpu and what cpu some have problems cooling no mater what cooler or case you have.