XCalinX

Well I would ideally like to go back to Mayhems but the reason I replaced it is because 1. It was old and 2. Over time as I drained and refilled the loops I did lose some of it and it would have no longer been enough to fill the reservoirs. However, I have a hard time finding Blue Pastel or White pastel and blue dyes anywhere in stock, especially in places that ship to Romania.

Maybe, that's why I put the question mark in the title. In any case, it's horrible and I need to find a way to get rid of it.

Well, I drilled that hole for the passthrough fittings back in 2017 to match the ports on the old EK Blocks, and this Barrow block sadly doesn't match, so that's why. Thanks! Looks like I will eventually have to tear it all apart, clean it, then hope for the best!

Hmm, good idea, maybe I'll try it. Thanks!

Hello folks, So in February I redid my watercooling loops (one for the CPU, one for the GPU), but since them I have been getting growth of what I assume is algae. I did change the fluid from my old Mayhems Pastel white fluid which I dyed myself to blue (which I had for at least two years), with EK Cryofuel Solid Azure Blue. I also replaced my old Alphacool XT45 radiators with new EK PE/SE radiators. When I did so, I flushed both loops with distilled water. I do not know why this growth is happening or what could be causing it. I had no such problems with the old Mayhems fluid. Both loops consist of pretty much the same materials, as they both have EK Res X3 250 reservoirs, Primochill PETG tubing and fittings, EK Soft tubing, EK PE/SE radiators, EK D5 pumps. The only difference between them is the blocks. The CPU loop has an EK Velocity waterblock while the GPU loop has a Barrow RTX 3080 block, but since this growth is happening in both loops, I think it is fair to say that it does not matter. I have attached some photos of the growth below. The camera does not pick it up that well, so I did play around with the exposure in Lightroom to make it easier to see. What do you guys think I should do? I am thinking of tearing the whole system apart, cleaning each component individually, then putting it back together with new tubes and fluid. Thanks

I managed to bring back some GPUs to life using this method aswell, including the 980 Ti I'm using now

Good idea. You may be right about the screw incident, since it worked fine after that. I'll try to RMA it and see how it goes.

Hello folks, I have a rather big problem with my RTX 2080Ti. Basically, the story goes like this: A few months ago I took my rig apart to clean it, and in the process I removed the EKWB backplate from my RTX 2080Ti to clean it. However, I made the mistake of losing a screw and instead used a similar screw I found laying around. I assume it was slightly longer than the original screw. When I went to turn the system on, it caused a shortcircuit that resulted in smoke coming from the GPU. I immediately turned the PC off and removed the backplate. To my surprise, the GPU still worked perfectly fine. However, a few days ago I noticed that the GPU was running slightly hotter than usual, so I decided to change the thermal paste (when I initially installed the waterblock, I used some cheap thermal paste I bought from a local store because I didn't have anything else available). I used Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut liquid metal. (with this occasion, I applied it to the CPU aswell). After I put the rig back together, the GPU started artifacting after the Windows boot logo showed up. It eventually got into Windows, but without the driver being loaded. I removed the drivers with DDU, and reinstalled them but unfortunately the issue persists. Basically, as soon as I attempt to load the GPU drivers, the GPU artifacts and fails to load them. If I go in Device Manager and disable then enable the GPU, it artifacts as soon as I enable it, then the screen goes black and eventually the image comes back, but with no driver loaded. I also get the Code 43 error in device manager. It is also worth noting that I'm currently using my old 980 Ti and it works fine, so it being a software issue (or an issue with the rest of the hardware) is out of the question. Here are some things I tried to do to bring it back to life - Installed the air cooler (Palit GamingPro dual fan cooler) - Attempted the oven baking method - Attempted heating the whole card up with a heatgun - Flashed to a different BIOS (downloaded from TechPowerUp) - Removed the drivers with DDU several times Is there anything else I could try to bring the card back or is it a lost cause? Thanks.

More changes! Color scheme changed back to blue, Ryzen more RAM and next year it's gonna be Threadripper and Volta (when it comes out haha). First post updated aswell.

Even if Vega was better than any Geforce, I still wouldn't have recommended it after this pricing circus because I don't want these shitheads to get money from anyone.

No, But I fixed it shortly after writing this thread :P. I've been dealing with this for a few weeks and finally managed to find the solution today. For some reason one of the cards had a higher priority while loading the BIOS while the other one had a higher priority in the OS. I forgot to mention in the OP that if plug any of the 2 displays into the first GPU (I was using the second one), I won't get signal at all. So I found out that the first GPU only displays signal prior to the OS being loaded while the second one only displays signal after the OS is loaded. When I discovered that the other GPU doesn't display signal, the PC was on and the OS was loaded and I didn't bother to reboot it. So, as you can guess when I plugged the cable into the first card and rebooted, the BIOS screen showed up, but after that the screen went black and when I moved the cable back to the 2nd card it was displaying the OS. The fix to this was to disable SLI, move the cable to the top card and then enable it again. What I don't understand is why this started happening when I got the TV., since I didn't make any hardware changes to the system since before I got it.

Hey guys, I have a 1800X, A Gigabyte AX 370 Gaming 5 board and 2 GTX 1080s in SLI. I had an Acer 4k monitor that was hooked up with a Dispaly port cable. Then I won a Samsung 4K TV on a giveaway and decided to use it as a secondary monitor to play racing games on. I plugged it with a HDMI 2.0 cable. It worked but I noticed that after I plugged in the TV for the first time that I can't get into the BIOS anymore, even if I use the monitor with the DP port. Basically the PC boots, it detects the CPU and RAM, but the screen stays black instead of showing the BIOS splash screen(on both the monitor and the TV) and it only turns on when I'm at the Windows 10 lock screen (not the boot logo, but the lock screen) so by the time I get signal on the screen the OS is already loaded. I don't know what to say about this. I tired to reflash my BIOS and reset the CMOS and none of these things helped. I don't really want to take the GPUs out because they are custom watercooled with rigid tubing so it is a bit of a pain in the ass.

Well the video and its description still showed up on Google, so I downloaded the pics from the link he had in the description, for our enjoyment

Altex? That's a company in my country, Romania. They're ok.

Well guys, I fixed it. It was a weird fix but who cares as long as it works? I updated my board to the latest beta BIOS and it works now. Now to see if I can OC my 1800x farther with this BIOS

Not yet, because I have a custom loop so it's not that easy but I will drain it later and try it

See the sig. Also, like I said, it works now but one of the GPUs only runs in PCIe x2, making SLI not possible,

Update. I found out in GPU-z that one of the 1080s is running at PCIe x2 instead of x8, and nVidia only supports SLI with x8 slots. I don't know why though.

Yeah I removed the driver with DDU and it works now, but I can't enable SLI now. The option to turn on SLI isn't in the CP anymore even though both cards are recognized. And no, it's not automatically turned on, I get the same performance I was getting before I upgraded to SLI.

Did you read the first post? It says that I can't get into it anymore.

Hey guys, I have 2 GTX 1080s in SLI right now, but I'm facing a problem with them. So I turned on my PC this morning and noticed that it was set to 1024x768 in Windows and that when I right click on my desktop the nVidia CP option is gone. I went into device manager and saw that my 1080s have the little yellow troubleshooting icon next to them. See this. Then I went to the nVidia site and downloaded the latest driver (I was running an older version), instelled it, restarted my PC but the problem still persists. I set the resolution back to 4K in Windows but it feels very laggy. I tried disabling and enabling them in Device Manager but it didn't do much. Any ideas on fixing this? Thanks.

BS. I run 2 1080s and all games I tried so far don't have any noticeable microstutter. The real downside of SLI/CF is that not all games can utilize it properly and some like Just Cause 3 can't use it at all. If let's say you are buying a computer for a specific game, you go SLI and the game doesn't support it, then you're screwed.

Decided to go with blue.

Hey guys, I'm posting this here because I don't know where else I can post it. I'm getting tired of my white color scheme, especially since I have a gunmetal case. I was thinking of chaning it, but since I suck at making important decisions, I don't know what color to pick. I've been thinking of red, blue, green and orange for the most part. What would you guys choose? Thanks. Here are some pics Also, how would you go about making the motherboard heatsinks black? I was thinking of carbon fiber sticker paper.

Well sometimes I feel bored while playing games, but I'm very obsessed with making my PC look good, even though most of the time I spent on it for the last couple of weeks was just internet browsing and staring at other similar PCs