Skander1345

You can apply a small electrical tape on the LED to dim it or completely remove the light.
You can also use a small blob of non conductive black adhesive/goo/whatever.

None of the smiley faces work just comes up with the missing file icon then the text that was typed " "   

It is currently being worked on to resolve the issue, and as I say this it seems that error has come up.

^ i agree with this once budget allows and all and make sure it has Intel controllers this time.
 

This honestly makes me think there is an issue with this particular MB's model with the ASMEDIA controller.

As said my update post fresh Windows install
 
Everything is working fine now, no high CPU usage or spikes and my mouse is as smooth as silk.
 
That's the last time I leave windows installed with a significant hardware upgrade. Windows 10 is also so much faster with a fresh install as opposed to an upgrade
 
Thanks for the help people

Well after a lot of fiddling around it's fair to say this turned out very well, I wish they were a little more straight all together and may consider redoing it, but for now I would say it's a success.
 

Remove and reattach the cooling assembly, saw this on some amazon reviews.
Normal STRIX cards wouldn't run near the 60's c at idle.
 
Make sure to change the thermal paste when you remove and reattach, keep the pads in place and try not to ruin them.

Can you please show us the running tasks in task manager while selecting CPU usage apps to show first?

I would only test it with a brand new good quality PSU to determine what might have been damaged, keep the GPU plugged in too.
It probably works fine.. an ancient 250w PSU is not enough especially since you had to take the GPU out (probably explains leds and fans spinning but not booting)

This is not true. If your vrm's are overheating some boards will aggressively throttle your cpu others will just shut down.

Trying the fan is worth a shot, but will probably be futile. I agree with @GzeroD in that it probably isn't worth an investment in the AM3 platform too much. Can you RMA the board or return it by chance? You'd be able to at least recoup some money, maybe buy an AM3+ board from a friend, or find a decent one one sale.

What website? That's the website's issue. The admin of that website needs to fix this with their webhost.

cores don't die. lol.
 
Go to task manager and click that

Why not get a keyboard with RGB Gateron switches? That, or if you can wait until September, you could get a Ducky Shine 5... It's also RGB, and legitimate Cherry. 
 
A lot of people (lately) have been saying that Gateron switches are more consistent, and smoother feeling. Plus, you can get them in RGB. 
 
I'm personally waiting for a Group Buy to happen over on GeekHack that has custom Gateron Switches. Then I'll get them assembled into a keyboard... Also, keep in mind that getting a board built (or doing it yourself) might be a better option. That way you can get SIP sockets for LEDs, which lets you hot swap LEDs, so if one dies, you can easily switch them out, and switching them won't be too much of a burden anyway, since all you need to do is take off the caps and swap LEDs. (That's what I'm doing, anyway, although that being said, I would only be changing LEDs once every few months, rather than daily/hourly. 
 
That's my 2 cents. 
 
The reason that I suggest you get one built is that although it's certainly more expensive than a normal keyboard (even a Corsair K95), it would probably end up being cheaper than the two that you'll have ended up with at this point, so you'd be less likely to have issues with LEDs and such in the future. 

My first Chroma had ghosting and sticking keys 3rd week of owning it, sent it in and got a replacement and that one had ghosting as well after the 1st week and then the keys didn't sound or feel all the same after a few more days. I ended up straight up trading for a Quickfire TK which felt better in every way. Then I went to a K70 RGB as they are not as prone to the issues the RGB keyboards with the Cherry MX brown from Corsair have. 

reinstall drivers would be my guess since stuff still thinks you're on win 8

i think it something like 2 days

Saying it is illegal in Canada is a way for me to avoid going back and forth explaining this to the 1-2 people per DAY who email me asking if they can come intern at LMG
 
We don't to internships because they are either illegal (if the person is doing real work and not being paid) or pointless (most academic or otherwise legitimate internships require the intern to only observe).
 
And we don't do paid ones, because if I wanted to spend the money I'd hire a qualified employee, rather than doing an internship

Disconnecting the extra power is not going to help you, so keep it plugged.
 
Are you sure there are not shorts? MB standoffs in place?
Is the PSU confirmed working properly?
 
Best guess would be the MB is defective since it doesn't react at all.

I'm not sure what just happend but I reseated my GPU again, took out the power cords are re-plugged them in to both the PSU and GPU and now it suddenly works...? I guess it was a loose cable from the PSU to GPU but before the GPU would literally light up and fans would spin so......I'm seriously not sure
 
Edit - it could have been the 2 pin wasn't entirely in which made it not get its entire power
       -  switched it from VGA2 to VGA1 as well just in case but that shouldn't really effect it (on PSU)
 
Anyways thank you all for your responses, I wouldn't have been able to solve this problem without you guys,

Remove the GPU, and connect the monitor to the HDMI connector of the motherboard. This will use the iGPU.

I never tried a clean install on Windows 10 so I'm not sure of this answer;
but it seems according to what I found online that it will reactivate on it's own if it's connected to your MS account on the same hardware.

Might be a corrupted installation, try "refreshing" the Windows 10 install. It's in the settings.

Not worth it, just use the other dimms. The difference in performance will be practically insignificant and only affects extreme memory overclocks.