kevinisbeast707

This seems like an obvious solution to a bit of a stupid problem. Wish they had done this instead then I might've considered this over the megapro driver.

Depends what you want it to do. If you're going to be using it for rendering or CPU heavy workloads then no it will throttle for sure. If you're just gaming then it will probably be fine. I've set mine to the 65w tdp profile and enabled pbo and curve optimizer while using a wraith spire cooler and it was able to keep it boosting to about 4.7 in game. However if you're only going to be gaming with it maybe just get a 5600x. A 5800x could be a good choice if you're going to be doing streaming or recording using the amd encoder on the GPU.

I have a dark rock TF2 on my 5900x and it cools it perfectly well. The only time it doesn't quite cool it is when I have an all core load with pbo set to 200w. I'm not entirely sure if you can get to the screws through both fans but it's is fairly easy to mount and taking the cooler off doesn't remove the mounting mechanism.

You could always try one of noctuas p12 or f12. And if you really can't do those there's always corsairs ml120 though it's ungodly loud.

Here is a condenser microphone that should be pretty good. I used the usb version of this microphone for a couple of years before upgrading to an xlr setup. This one comes in a kit with the pop filter, shock mount, and mic stand so that would save you some money. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XOXRTX6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_TY28ANN585G6A6PEXR30

Not necessarily. The mic should probably be the first thing that you upgrade when you get the money but the xm8500 is an excellent microphone for the price. I'll link you a video where you can listen to the audio quality of the microphone. One thing to note is that this is a dynamic microphone so it will better cancel out background noise but if you're not speaking directly into it you will also be very quiet. If you want a microphone that is better at picking you up from farther away/at other angles then I can try to find a condenser mic in your price range.

Depending on whether or not you already have a microphone stand or not then this is the combo that I use and I'm pretty happy with it. I have a Behringer xm8500 hooked up to a Focusrite scarlett solo gen3. I also have a cloudlifter in between these two to raise my gain a bit but that's not necessary. I'll also link the xlr cables I use and a cheap microphone desk mount if you need one. Focusrite scarlett solo gen 3: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QR6Z1JB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_G241YJWP3E29ENC4AQ9Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Behringer xm8500: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KZAKS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_1FN4PER898FPMYD3TRS8 Xlr cables: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JY29Z5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_SWJTMT8DZYE3B2ZFP7BD?psc=1 Foam pop filter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006NMUK4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_E6EC4SDKN20FX0WZBY78?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Microphone desk mount: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DY1F2CS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_RWN995Y560305NP71YGX Shock mount: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083Q5T15W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_7TMR9GKFXNVGGQZ929C8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Getting everything definitely goes over your budget but you can always leave out the stand and shock mount if you already have those or if you need them you can use something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K5WLJ6Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_H0VTN1NPHFPKSJPY3MQ6() and then you'd save money on both the adc and the xlr cable. Cheers!

So I was searching for argb strips on amazon and came across this wonderful page... I was thinking that somehow it was just a page problem but apparently on their official store, all but three of their case accessories show up as Crayola. 10/10 would be confused again. https://www.amazon.com/stores/page/A70ED8E1-3AAD-4B11-8273-838AAA5469E7?ingress=2&visitId=ccd7969b-886d-41e4-8949-4164a3ec4b39&ref_=ast_bln

Hmmmm. I'm probably going to have to say that for me it's a solar charging battery bank that I got for my birthday from my girlfriends parents. It would take so long to recharge it using just solar that it isn't worth it to do so, but since it's so bright in my room during the day, I can just leave it on my desk and then I never have to worry about it losing charge as it's constantly being topped off.

Yeah. I think you'd be hard pressed to find a better value overall. Also it's nice only having one single thing on your desk instead of two with cables connecting them.

So, a very simplified version is that, for the most part, anything that has a signal to noise ratio of over 96db will be good enough to play back everything that a 16 bit music file has to offer. This is "cd quality" and is probably what you should be aiming for. 24 bit is really useful for if you want to use digital volume control like the windows volume to control the output volume since you won't lose data until a very low volume. Crosstalk is more or less the amount of noise that will leak from one channel of the headphone to the other unintentionally. -67db is a pretty fine number and while a lower db is always preferred, most "cheaper" amps are around this figure. The schiit mangi 3/+/heresy is only "-70db or less". all of the other measurements are over -100db which is perfect and exactly what you're looking for. After 100db it becomes very difficult to discern a difference in distortion and noise artifacts with the types of headphones that you and I are using for listening. After 120db the differences are basically inaudible to the human ear. Output impedance determines both the volume output and the frequency response you'll get out of your headphones. in general lower is better and you want to have something like an 8 to 1 or a 10 to 1 ratio between the impedance of your headhones and the output impedance of your amplifier. So for the k712 at 62 ohms, you'd want an amplifier that has an output impedance of less than 6-7 ohms. Anything higher than this will change the sound signature of them and make them slightly quieter. One of the benefits of having a higher output impedance is that when you use iems that have a very low impedance and are very sensitive, you can still use the same amplifier since the relatively higher output impedance of the amplifier will reduce the loudness of the iems. As for power, I don't know that I've run into any reason to go above 1 watt of power output. I have the Sennheiser hd6xx and with my magni 3 I have never had to take it out of low gain and the volume dial is usually near or below the 8 o'clock position.

I haven't been able to find any direct comparisons either. However I was able to find JDS's spec sheet for the original one and if they were as honest back then as they are now then it looks like it will still be competitive today. The element 1: https://blog.jdslabs.com/2015/06/introducing-the-element-by-jds-labs/ The element 2: https://jdslabs.com/product/element-ii/ There are some good comments on this thread about the v1 vs v2: https://blog.jdslabs.com/2019/11/jds-labs-element-ii-official-release-benchmarks/

The element 1 looks like a really good deal but it doesn't have optical input. The topping dx3 pro v2 is a great combo unit as well but what worries me is that they boosted the output impedance from the v1 so it's now 10 ohms. From looking at the phase measurements of the k712, it looks like that may make it sharp.

Ah that's unfortunate. And yes that is a pretty good combo. But if you have to have optical in then it might be worth it to go for the d30 and wait or to see if the modi 3 will come back in stock.

Do you need optical in? If not then the Topping d10 is a good dac otherwise. The JDS labs atom is incredible and I would probably go with that, a magni heresy, or an objective 2. I personally use the Schiit modi/magni 3 stack and, while I find that the magni 3 actually has too much power, the dac is amazing. I don't know how pricing would work out for you but you could also always try something from Massdrop. They have their objective 2 amp and grace sdac which is also a very good combination that, at least in the states, is cheaper than a schiit stack.

If you never want to overclock then the 3600x could be worth it. If you think you might upgrade to something better within the next year or so, feel like you might overclock the processor yourself, or are running a gpu lesser than probably an rtx 2060 super then the 3600 could be more worth it. The way Linus does it is to take the difference in prices between what your entire computer setup would be with and without the more expensive chip and see if the percentage difference is similar to how much more percentage wise you'd be spending extra. ie: let's say that your entire setup would cost $600 with the 3600 and $630 with the 3600x. So you would take $630/$600=1.05 which means that in this instance the 3600x would make your build 5 percent more expensive overall. Now you take the games or apps that you'd like to use and try to find some benchmarks for them. If in this example it performs more than 5 percent better in games that you play then it is worth it to get the 3600x. If it is under 5 percent then you are paying for diminishing returns and it is then up to you if the smaller increase in performance for the price is worth it.

In this game in particular I haven't seen a compelling reason not to use dx12. Maybe it'd make a difference on a dual core

Until I just read that I had completely accepted that they would just thermal throttle and not that they would only run at pcie 3.0 speeds... I think it's time for me to go to bed.

Just to put in my two cents as someone with a clc tr4 build, the only time I've ever had a leak in any of my clc builds had been when I cross threaded a fitting into an ek acrylic block but I immediately felt the cross threading and I decided to try it out anyways after threading it correctly. Long story short I ended up getting a copper/nickle block top and I've never had any issues in this department since with soft tubing.

Decided to go big or go home. Brought my girlfriend along so I built a micro atx Threadripper 1900x system with 32GB of ddr4 that I split into two gaming vm's using Unraid. My half of the system gets an rtx 2080 and her half gets an rx 480.

Yeah you are really close to a 7700K which should even be better in games for you.

Yes because it will turbo higher than usual since you're allowing it to not power throttle as much.

That has about summed up my experience as well. With my G7 I never had usb power delivery issues but I also didn't observe a large temperature difference since the G7 was just taking that extra thermal headroom and boosting to the limits of that default voltage curves power limit. What I have come to respect in the months since then is that Rise of The Tomb Raider is brutal on hardware and incredibly good at finding weaknesses in overclocks. On my desktop I have been able to play every other game I own for hours and hours on end with a gpu overclock on a 2080 at +160Mhz but the moment I try to play ROTTR I have to drop the clock back to +140 otherwise it crashes every time. Does the same for cpu overclocks though for memory I find cinebench does a fine job for generally finding really bad overclocks and timings.

Honestly you'd probably still be fine going with something like Noctua's U12. The d15 will perform better and be quieter tho. Saving money with a Coolermaster hyper 212 silence which is black and pretty quiet and is quite a bit cheaper.

I'd honestly follow @LukeSavenije 's advice on part selection. You're going to be getting a lot of benefit from dropping down to a 2700 instead of the x variant and then opting for a Radeon VII or rtx 2080. Also of note is that nzxt's h500 sucks for airflow which will impact your gpu in your case pretty harshly. His system layout for you is much more balanced. If unfortunately you have already bought your case then you're going to want to use nzxt if you already have some of their rgb stuff. Otherwise corsair is better. Link to gamers Nexus nzxt h500 review: