kevinisbeast707

Every ten decibels is a perceived doubling in loudness for human hearing. I believe that's just a blanket statement but there's a reason that 103db/w is very high and 93db/w is kinda just average. Also consider that the difference in volume steps on something like an ipod is much lower than something like a dedicated amp or even a decent output on a computer. Higher efficiency makes the volume steps from a low power source sound like they are adding much more volume each time than if you had something with a lower efficiency from the same source. One of my favorite example is that my sennheiser hd58x are 150ohm drivers with a sensitivity of 104db/v while my hifiman he4xx have an impedance of only 32ohm but have a sensitivity of 93db/w which sounds like it would only be something like 10% quieter and maybe mathematically it is but on my pixel xl it takes about 3-4 clicks of volume to have a perceived matching of volumes.

I'm surprised nobodys mentioned hyperx here. The clouds and the alpha are within your price range and definitely don't sound god awful like some gaming headsets. I still own my original clouds and even though I don't use them anymore since I prefer the open backed sennheiser sound, they do block out a lot of noise and sound pretty decent especially if you enjoy deep bass. They aren't an audiophile headphone but they do get a recommendation from Linus and a bunch of other people as an affordable gaming headset that doesn't sound like garbage. They also come with a detachable decent mic and the clouds I believe cost around $100 with the alpha being a little higher.

Honestly if you're still looking into it then pretty much any name brand manufacturer is fine. There are some rx580 deals for $160 us right now from people like asrock and at that price I think it's worth getting that gpu rather than stepping down to an rx 570 which used to be my recommendation. If you can somehow find an rx 590 for under $200 then that may be worth a look but if you can find those cheap 580s then those are more worth it. If you want maximum graphics settings then a cheaper vega 56 could be worth it too.

Here are some guides that do a fair job at oveclocking guides for coffeelake/kabylake/skylake. Also I'd look into gamers nexus videos on the subject. Steve does wonderful work in that department.

Another question is whether or not you have fans acting as intake above cpu and intake by gpu as well. In my specific case I use the gpu portion as outtake and it works miracles. Also by removing the io plate some air can escape out the back by the cpu so that the cooler is more effective if it's downdraft.

Prime 95 and furmark are designed to stress your system and get it much hotter than it normally would. My system is in a silverstone rvz-03 which isn't entirely different from your case and I'm running a ryzen 5 1600. Using the stock cooler (not the stealth), I would hit about 78 degrees running just intel burn test. That's pretty much expected. When I overclocked the chip it would throttle and hit temps way higher than I was comfortable with. However when overclocked during gaming it wouldn't go over 70 degrees Celsius. That is technically fine but I fixed that by custom liquid cooling both my cpu and gpu with a 240mm radiator. After even all this if I run the cpu overclocked at 3.85Ghz with 1.365V then I can easily hit 70 degrees Celsius using a liquid loop. So those temperatures are normal especially with small coolers with the cpu overclocked at 1.4V. Remember that increased voltage raises heat output exponentially. Or logarithmically. I can't remember but either way it's not a straight line.

Honestly off the top of my head there are really only like three fans I can think of that fit this criteria. Fractal designs venturi hp or hf if on sale, I have one and it's pretty much silent when kept at lowerish speeds though it still gets about as loud as any other fan spinning at 1800rpm, Noctuas p12 redux comes in both 1300 and 1700rpm variants depending on your needs and they are well and truly the fans I'd recommend for the price as they are extraordinarily quiet even at full blast. Like the venturi they produce pretty much no vibration even without vibration dampening pads but at full blast, their noise is very much more pleasant and not a higher pitched whine. They are also grey and inoffensive so that's always good, Lastly is they corsair af120 or sp120. They're older and are like the venturi in that there are two variants meant either for high air flow with low restriction or high pressure through high restriction. They're about as cheap as the Noctua p12 and are more specialized though neither in my experience is as balanced as is usually needed though they are very reliable and easy to find. So finalized recommendation is going to be the Noctua p12 redux for anything. If you need black rather than grey then the venturi or corsairs are decent too. P12 redux are about $13 a piece Noctua also has s12 redux which are very much an airflow fan which is also quieter than the p12 but is not very useful outside of unobstructed airflow use cases such as an exhaust for a case that doesn't have any glass or mesh covering it.

I think all of the obvious answers have been mentioned here already but I built myself a system with a ryzen 5 1600 and gtx 1070 ti in a Silverstone rvz-03 which is sff and can technically take a 240mm radiator. However what I discovered is that while you can fit the radiator, you cannot fit fans if you have a dual slot gpu. I decided to custom liquid cool the whole thing and now I have it to where both the cpu and gpu are liquid cooled using a 25mm thick rad with a 15mm fan directly under the gpu block and then a 25mm thick fan under where the 8 pin is and that does admirably in cooling overall. Just because an aio would mandate a thicker case doesn't mean custom cooling cant actually take up less space. Just food for thought.

Yeah maybe thermal paste but I know it's a pain to get in there to change it and I honestly think megafatpanda is right. It already heated up with normal fan curves so a slowed one would likely make it overheat. Does it do this both while plugged in and while on battery?

I was referencing my new laptop which has an i5 8250u in it so in that case it means 15w. Definitely not an i7 8750h though I think it is still technically low voltage just not ultra low voltage like the "u" series.?

Those are some impressive numbers. That's pretty much doing objectively better than an overclocked ryzen 5 1600 system. Very good numbers and undervolting is all about finding that sweet spot between better performance and higher stability. If you ever get into turbo power tweaking then it becomes even more of a fine tuning process where you have to balance three things at which point you are riding the line of thermal throttling, stability, and performance but I feel that you could end up with a score of probably around 1300 given how well your chip is already performing at those voltages and speeds. It's always nice to see that there are other people trying to do the same thing as you with success. Congratulations on successfully unlocking some free performance on your laptop?

Lol so how it works on locked processors, especially mobile ones is that they are given a specific power curve that determines how many volts to throw at a cpu given its clock speed. The main limiting factor is usually either thermal output or power intake. The cpus are only designed to use lets say 45w once turbo boost time has been passed, so once the bios tells them that they can no longer pull the amount of power allotted to them for turbo boost speeds, they throttle back so they can use less power lets say to 3.7Ghz from a boost of 4.1Ghz. They do this by lowering their voltage which has a corresponding clock speed decline which is preset on the cpu's power table. By using a tool like xtu to manually lower voltage offsets across the board, the amount of voltage that a cpu will use at a given clock speed is reduced which means that overall power consumption is reduced since watts= volts x amps. In this situation then the cpu while pulling 45w can now push lets say 3.9Ghz instead of 3.7Ghz. While this may be a small improvement it can actually be a part of a larger improvement to temperatures. As has been mentioned in this thread a few times, the Dell g7 does like to thermal throttle, so instead of being limited by the cpu's target of 45w which would push the clocks down to 3.7Ghz, now the cpu is also being limited by temperature which can cause the cpu to more wildly dip in clocks. So now while drawing the same amount of power or even maybe less than 45w, the cpu might be thermal throttling down to perhaps 3.4-3.5Ghz. Well now by undervolting we are lowering the amount of overall power the cpu is using and since applying voltage to a cpu gives an exponential rise in temperatures, we have also lowered temperatures which will now allow the cpu to stay boosted at 3.9ghz. In this situation we have boosted pure cpu clock speeds by a whopping 15% or more depending on the workload. This also has the added effect of letting our gpu boost higher in this case since I believe the g7 did have a shared heatpipe. Now another thing you can do to mobile cpus is boost their allowed power. So then by undervolting you are controlling thermal output so that the cpu doesn't thermal throttle but allowing it to pull more than 45w so now it can stay boosted at 4.1Ghz indefinitely. Or at least in theory as usually once you raise the allowed power draw the thermals will rise to thermal throttling territory but it is useful for benchmarking runs where tests usually have a shorter length. Also sorry for this being so long it's just been a while since I've gotten to completely nerd out to people who actually understand what I'm talking about?

I think it has more to do with a combination of factors including that the depth of the cups in the qc35 II is deeper which means that my ears don't press against the sides along with just how soft the leather (pleather?) earpads are and the clamping force is just right. I also believe that their weight distribution has something to do with it since most of the weight is centered around the ear cup whereas the sonys have a heavier headband which makes the headphones move forward and backward ever so slightly more when moving your head than the qc35. The bose make you feel like you could go jogging in them and they'd stay on no problem but the sonys feel like they would slide off or at least slide around distractingly which is actually probably fine since you probably shouldn't go running with full sized noise cancelling headphones anyways. Another thing to note is that the bose seem more "sure footed" is I guess the phrase I'm going to go with here when putting them on. You kind of just put them on and then you just leave them there knowing that they're doing their job to the best of their ability. The sonys on the other hand actually do still do an overall better job at blocking out noise but it just seems like the exact placement on the ear does ever so slightly affect both sound quality and noise cancelling quality. Not to any really problematic degree but as someone who will switch headphones based on the song I'm listening to this does bother my slight addiction to having a perfect fit every time.

Yeah that's what I'm thinking too but after spending $130 on a 1600 I figured I'd be okay with that since it holds up pretty well overall. Waiting for actual second gen ryzen to come out so I can spend more money on parts I don't need. ?

The 6xx and the 58x aren't "reference cans" no. They do sound excellent for consumtion and do sound fantastic for that purpouse. I also happened to pick up a pair of Hifiman he4xx which I actually dislike for consumption but they do reveal a lot of things in the music. Their bass is actually linear and they do sound pretty comparable to my edc3 which are also very neutral. One thing that may interest you is that I've found that planar magnetics like the he4xx seem to make string instruments (piano included) come alive. You can actually hear the entirety of the string being plucked and all of the little nuances which can be very revealing. So not a bad place to start but sony makes the mdr7506 which are legendarily neutral.

Actually I just got back from fry's where they had the sony 1000xm3, bose qc35 II, and sennheiser pxc 550. From briefly trying them they would all fit your sonic preference with the sennheisers being slightly more neutral. The sennheiser's by a bit had worse noise cancellation. The bose noise cancellation was great but they definitely don't sound the cleanest. The sony's seemed like the best sound quality balance between the two where it sounded good but not overly neutral but what really blew me away was how much better they cancelled out the noise. I remember trying the x2's of these and thinking that they were as good as the bose, but I think bose now actually has a competitor whom actually outright beats them. Sorry bose but the sony 1000xm3 do imho do a better job at what they're designed to do than the qc35 II. Though the 35's are still slightly more comfortable probably due to their lightness.

So if you're dead set on using hard tubing then definitely use petg since it's your first time. As for the rest of the parts, EK is probably what you're going to want to go with though I have had good luck with xspc's fittings since they're so much cheaprer. A decent starting place would be a hard tubing kit from ek but the problem is that the reservoir is so small. Though you could also get a performance or extreme series kit and then just get the fittings and tubing though that would also be wasted money. At the very least they give you a parts list of what you'll need.

As someone who owns a 1600 oc and a gtx 1070 ti which are both custom liquid cooled inside a silverstone rvz-03, It's a complete waste of both time and money. With that said, I freaking love it. I actually got it to get lower temperatures and lower noise and hopefully higher overclocks. Unfortunately while the fan noise did go down, there is now pump noise which I find an acceptable trade off since with a 240mm thin radiator I'm getting better temps. The cpu didn't overclock any better and neither did my gpu. However my gpu does now hold its boost indefinitely now staying around 2038-2050Mhz all the time instead of dropping into the 1800's. Due to the exact layout of my loop I have to refill it about every month or two since the inlet to the pump is near the top of my reservoir (and no I can't move it because there's very literally no room). So from a price and time perspective it's not worth it but damn is it fun.

Well as much as I enjoy my corsair sp120, there are also corsairs ml120's which are better in pretty much every regard. Noctuas redux p12 can go as high as 1700 and move an incredible amount of air while being grey and pretty quiet, Fractals hp12 is really good and another fan I use but it's all black, Thermaltak's Riing 12 can be had for cheap in both black/blue or rgb variants and are better at high rpm, Ek's vardars are good but god their ball bearings are really distracting and annoying. The best fans are probably gonna be a tie between the noctua a12 (brown), ek vardar (terrible bearing noise), and corsair ml120/140 (can't be speed controlled via voltage must be pwm). All the fans mentioned have 140mm variants.

Lol I think he was making a joke about dropping the gpu during install. Like physically dropping it.

Honestly might be something in the bios bumping your voltage up for no reason. Not a definite answer but I've seen it happen before on my 4690k.

I already agree with your decision since it's the same one that I've gone with but I just had to throw it out there that intel has been on the same socket for 4 years and has made pretty much zero effort to make the chipsets backwards compatible besides z170/270 kind of while restricting z370-390. Remember the good old days when intel promised that z97 would be good for both haswell, devils canyon, and broadwell? And then it actually happened. Wow what a time to be alive, besides for how lackluster the broadwell release was for the desktop side. Oh well good efforts intel. Wish I didn't have to pay $400 for a platform that won't be upgradeable or I might have gone with ya.

If you can boot with the other boot drive then you can open your files on the first drive and go to wherever you have msi afterburner installed at and delete it. That would rule out that possibility.

If you watch your cpu usage in cinebench while running the video test, you'll notice that it is only using like 2 cpu cores and that your gpu usage will be very low like 20% for a 1070 ti. The built in video card benchmark in cinebench is pretty much terrible. My 1070 ti gets the same exact score as my old 750 ti using the same cpu. Those higher benchmarks are people who used cpus with huge single core performance like an 8xxxk or 9xxxk chip at near 5ghz. As for pup g, it is notoriously poorly optimized and in the case of csgo, it's again being cpu limited since it only uses a handfull of cores. On my r5 1600 and gtx 1070 ti setup I only get around 170 in csgo as well on the highest settings and gpu usage is often around 60 percent. It sucks but it is unfortunately normal.

As has been said many times, the rx570 on a sale would be your best bet but a 1050 ti is also a decent card if that fits your budget better. Side note, msi has some 144hz va optix monitors that would look much better while keeping the same refresh rate you're looking for at around $200. They also have freesync so if you did get an rx series card you could take advantage of variable refresh rate. Another thing that might be worth considering is a scepter monitor. They aren't as big a company as msi but they do seem to be the top competitors in terms of price/performance. Sceptre C248B-144R is one that I found that suites your criteria for $174 with a better screen at 144hz. Just food for thought.