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kevinisbeast707

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About kevinisbeast707

  • Birthday Jan 13, 1999

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    Kevinisbeast707
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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Henderson NV
  • Interests
    pc gaming, hanging out with friends, lans, flying, skydiving, lifting, tennis.
  • Occupation
    Physical therapy tech

System

  • CPU
    AMD Ryzen 9 5900x
  • Motherboard
    Asus Strix X570-E
  • RAM
    64GB Trident Z RGB 3200Mhz c16
  • GPU
    Evga RTX 3080 12GB FTW3 Ultra
  • Case
    Segotep Phoenix
  • Storage
    1TB Adata XPG sx 8200 pro + 2TB Crucial p5 plus + 2TB Crucial mx500 + 2x2TB Seagate firecuda 2.5in sshd + 8TB Seagate barracuda
  • PSU
    Corsair rm850x (2018)
  • Display(s)
    34" LG Ultragear 34GN850-B, 22" Philips 226E9QDSB, 55" TCL 55r613
  • Cooling
    Watercool Heatkiller IV pro black copper am4, Watercool Heatkiller V RTX 3080 FTW3, Corsair xr5 360mm&240mm, 5x Noctua a12x25, d5 pwm with heatkiller top
  • Keyboard
    Asus Rog Falchion wireless
  • Mouse
    Logitech G pro wireless
  • Sound
    Sennheiser hd6xx, Hifiman he560, Koss ESP/95x, Schiit Modius, Schiit Asgard 2, drop+thx aaa one, Behringer ultravoice xm8500, Scarlett solo gen3
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 pro
  • Laptop
    M1 MacBook pro 13
  • Phone
    Google Pixel 6 Pro & Pebble Time

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. This seems like an obvious solution to a bit of a stupid problem. Wish they had done this instead then I might've considered this over the megapro driver.
  2. Depends what you want it to do. If you're going to be using it for rendering or CPU heavy workloads then no it will throttle for sure. If you're just gaming then it will probably be fine. I've set mine to the 65w tdp profile and enabled pbo and curve optimizer while using a wraith spire cooler and it was able to keep it boosting to about 4.7 in game. However if you're only going to be gaming with it maybe just get a 5600x. A 5800x could be a good choice if you're going to be doing streaming or recording using the amd encoder on the GPU.
  3. I have a dark rock TF2 on my 5900x and it cools it perfectly well. The only time it doesn't quite cool it is when I have an all core load with pbo set to 200w. I'm not entirely sure if you can get to the screws through both fans but it's is fairly easy to mount and taking the cooler off doesn't remove the mounting mechanism.
  4. You could always try one of noctuas p12 or f12. And if you really can't do those there's always corsairs ml120 though it's ungodly loud.
  5. Here is a condenser microphone that should be pretty good. I used the usb version of this microphone for a couple of years before upgrading to an xlr setup. This one comes in a kit with the pop filter, shock mount, and mic stand so that would save you some money. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XOXRTX6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_TY28ANN585G6A6PEXR30
  6. Not necessarily. The mic should probably be the first thing that you upgrade when you get the money but the xm8500 is an excellent microphone for the price. I'll link you a video where you can listen to the audio quality of the microphone. One thing to note is that this is a dynamic microphone so it will better cancel out background noise but if you're not speaking directly into it you will also be very quiet. If you want a microphone that is better at picking you up from farther away/at other angles then I can try to find a condenser mic in your price range.
  7. Depending on whether or not you already have a microphone stand or not then this is the combo that I use and I'm pretty happy with it. I have a Behringer xm8500 hooked up to a Focusrite scarlett solo gen3. I also have a cloudlifter in between these two to raise my gain a bit but that's not necessary. I'll also link the xlr cables I use and a cheap microphone desk mount if you need one. Focusrite scarlett solo gen 3: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QR6Z1JB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_G241YJWP3E29ENC4AQ9Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Behringer xm8500: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KZAKS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_1FN4PER898FPMYD3TRS8 Xlr cables: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JY29Z5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_SWJTMT8DZYE3B2ZFP7BD?psc=1 Foam pop filter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006NMUK4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_E6EC4SDKN20FX0WZBY78?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Microphone desk mount: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DY1F2CS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_RWN995Y560305NP71YGX Shock mount: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083Q5T15W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_7TMR9GKFXNVGGQZ929C8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Getting everything definitely goes over your budget but you can always leave out the stand and shock mount if you already have those or if you need them you can use something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K5WLJ6Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_H0VTN1NPHFPKSJPY3MQ6() and then you'd save money on both the adc and the xlr cable. Cheers!
  8. So I was searching for argb strips on amazon and came across this wonderful page... I was thinking that somehow it was just a page problem but apparently on their official store, all but three of their case accessories show up as Crayola. 10/10 would be confused again. https://www.amazon.com/stores/page/A70ED8E1-3AAD-4B11-8273-838AAA5469E7?ingress=2&visitId=ccd7969b-886d-41e4-8949-4164a3ec4b39&ref_=ast_bln
  9. Hmmmm. I'm probably going to have to say that for me it's a solar charging battery bank that I got for my birthday from my girlfriends parents. It would take so long to recharge it using just solar that it isn't worth it to do so, but since it's so bright in my room during the day, I can just leave it on my desk and then I never have to worry about it losing charge as it's constantly being topped off.
  10. Yeah. I think you'd be hard pressed to find a better value overall. Also it's nice only having one single thing on your desk instead of two with cables connecting them.
  11. So, a very simplified version is that, for the most part, anything that has a signal to noise ratio of over 96db will be good enough to play back everything that a 16 bit music file has to offer. This is "cd quality" and is probably what you should be aiming for. 24 bit is really useful for if you want to use digital volume control like the windows volume to control the output volume since you won't lose data until a very low volume. Crosstalk is more or less the amount of noise that will leak from one channel of the headphone to the other unintentionally. -67db is a pretty fine number and while a lower db is always preferred, most "cheaper" amps are around this figure. The schiit mangi 3/+/heresy is only "-70db or less". all of the other measurements are over -100db which is perfect and exactly what you're looking for. After 100db it becomes very difficult to discern a difference in distortion and noise artifacts with the types of headphones that you and I are using for listening. After 120db the differences are basically inaudible to the human ear. Output impedance determines both the volume output and the frequency response you'll get out of your headphones. in general lower is better and you want to have something like an 8 to 1 or a 10 to 1 ratio between the impedance of your headhones and the output impedance of your amplifier. So for the k712 at 62 ohms, you'd want an amplifier that has an output impedance of less than 6-7 ohms. Anything higher than this will change the sound signature of them and make them slightly quieter. One of the benefits of having a higher output impedance is that when you use iems that have a very low impedance and are very sensitive, you can still use the same amplifier since the relatively higher output impedance of the amplifier will reduce the loudness of the iems. As for power, I don't know that I've run into any reason to go above 1 watt of power output. I have the Sennheiser hd6xx and with my magni 3 I have never had to take it out of low gain and the volume dial is usually near or below the 8 o'clock position.
  12. I haven't been able to find any direct comparisons either. However I was able to find JDS's spec sheet for the original one and if they were as honest back then as they are now then it looks like it will still be competitive today. The element 1: https://blog.jdslabs.com/2015/06/introducing-the-element-by-jds-labs/ The element 2: https://jdslabs.com/product/element-ii/ There are some good comments on this thread about the v1 vs v2: https://blog.jdslabs.com/2019/11/jds-labs-element-ii-official-release-benchmarks/
  13. The element 1 looks like a really good deal but it doesn't have optical input. The topping dx3 pro v2 is a great combo unit as well but what worries me is that they boosted the output impedance from the v1 so it's now 10 ohms. From looking at the phase measurements of the k712, it looks like that may make it sharp.
  14. Ah that's unfortunate. And yes that is a pretty good combo. But if you have to have optical in then it might be worth it to go for the d30 and wait or to see if the modi 3 will come back in stock.
  15. Do you need optical in? If not then the Topping d10 is a good dac otherwise. The JDS labs atom is incredible and I would probably go with that, a magni heresy, or an objective 2. I personally use the Schiit modi/magni 3 stack and, while I find that the magni 3 actually has too much power, the dac is amazing. I don't know how pricing would work out for you but you could also always try something from Massdrop. They have their objective 2 amp and grace sdac which is also a very good combination that, at least in the states, is cheaper than a schiit stack.
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