fataldog187

I got a Behringer UCA202 off of Amazon for $30 http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KW2YEI It works well for me, typical use is at work with earbuds, I have an all in one pc and the built in audio really sucked so I couldn't use headphones, switched to the USB dac and its all good now. My brother borrowed it to test against some other DAC that he had paid maybe $100-150 for and he came back surprised, saying that it was better than the one he had. He tested for about an hour using HD 800's.

Thanks for the support bruh, means a lot Oh I wouldn't want to do anything illegal, I guess I could just torrent the content instead?

I'm looking for a method to cache or download content from Netflix for slow internet connections. I have terrible DSL speeds and am needing a way to cache shows and movies in high quality so that I can avoid stuttering and buffering whenever a family member wants to use the internet. It's a problem even when loading webpages with images, streams will get so pixelated that you think you're having some sort of stroke or other medical event. I've tried Audials Moviebox 12 and it only captures in real time as you're streaming, leaving low quality parts in the video. I would prefer something that will download the highest quality stream available so that I can play it back later without interruptions. Don't mind paying if I can trial/demo it first. Any suggestions?

I have a TV and monitor hooked up in my room and I would get tearing on the TV in clone mode, instead of cloning I just switch it to only use the TV as a single display and that has worked fine. I just have to change it back and forth when I want to watch something on the bigger screen. Check it out and if it works, you may just want to show her how to switch back and forth. (Right click desktop>screen resolution>mutlitple displays>show desktop on only 1/2)

OT but chances are that most products that you have purchased over your life were not manufactured locally and therefore needed to be delivered to you in some way (to your door, store, etc.) most likely involving oil based transport at some point over the journey. And unless you've only eaten lettuce and tofu your whole life, you have likely supported companies that directly kill animals to meet their needs. I don't blame you or even the companies, I place blame directly on the animals themselves for being so damn tasty. :P

It's actually not bad depending on how you do it, you can buy a color of cable that will blend with your floor and baseboards. If you have carpet then it can be hidden more easily and tucked along the baseboard. If you can't go along the wall the whole way then you can use those cable cover things so that people won't trip on it and you won't see the cable. There are also cable raceway systems that you can run along the wall near the floor or ceiling, some of them are even designed to look like crown molding and blend in very nicely.

We use a wireless keyboard and mouse for our HTPC (Logitech K750 + Performance Mouse MX). It works well enough, it's in the living room and theres a coffee table right there for them to rest on, there are also tv tray things that we can put the mouse on if you want to lay on the couch and not sit up to control. Didn't get the combo keyboard/trackpad because I didn't like the idea of having to use the larger keyboard no matter what you were doing and thought having a mouse would be easier and more precise anyway. There's a cheap Rosewill remote for things like XBMC but no one uses it. Most of the time we just use windows explorer and double click the files for playback in VLC, there's usually no interaction with the remote control unless its a real quick pause/play, I don't think it would be any different if we had a more expensive harmony remote. We don't listen to music on it at all though so there's very little interaction with the system other than getting the file playing, we're not switching tracks or opening up different playlists and stuff. I have thought of getting a Nexus 7 for use as a XBMC remote though, would just need to get a dock for it so that it stays charged and doesn't get misplaced. You can also get a power supply that has a fan but does not turn on until a certain load is put on it. I know corsair hx750 and hx850 are like this because I was looking at getting them, they have slightly lower efficiency at such low loads though. They are also more expensive than most fanless PSU's but you would be getting the best of both worlds with something like that. Also concerning noise, I would have liked to put a large fanless heatsink on the CPU but we just have the stock cooler on, never really notice noise from it, its the slim intel cooler that comes with the i3-2120t. It only has a small SSD boot drive, no mechanical HDDs and no optical drives. Everything gets streamed from network storage or the internet which cuts down on drive noise and blinking lights on the front of the case.

You can try this, I don't know how often it gets updated though: http://www.malwarebytes.org/products/startuplite/

I have like 3 or 4 switches between me and my router, its 2-4ms ping on average over about 150ft of ethernet cable whereas directly connected to the router is <1ms ping. So switches can introduce some delay, just not that much.

Blizzard also just added spawning to SC2 so if you have a friend with the full game or a higher expansion, you can now play with them on their expansion level. Source: http://us.battle.net/sc2/en/blog/10145834/Spawning_Has_Come_to_StarCraft_II-6_4_2013

Again, it depends on your equipment and configuration whether or not you'll be able to do 4Gb to each machine, if you have a 4x1Gb interface in each machine going through a device that supports per packet load balancing then yes it's possible. If you're going through a device that only supports per stream/flow/destination load balancing then you will only get the 1Gbps. This. Even if you can't afford a cheap 10Gb switch then you may be able to use multiple adapters in the server to connect the 2 clients, then when you are able to afford the switch, pull out the 2nd adapter and put it in a 3rd client.

Browser plug-in? Punkbuster? Origin overlay? Video card drivers? Have you tried letting it load and waiting for your browser to tell you that the game is ready instead of clicking the game in the taskbar? I think I remember there being a button that said "take me to the game" or something similar. Are you running any programs with video overlays like fraps fps counters, in-game video card/cpu graphs? Maybe try disabling those.

Removing and replacing a stock cooler on that socket shouldn't require any work behind the motherboard, it just has an arm that clips onto the socket sides and tightens with a flip of the plastic thingy (I don't know the technical name of it). But good luck with the new cooler, it should come with some new thermal compound so you'll be killing two birds with one stone.

Depending on your budget, I would attempt cleaning and replacing the thermal compound first. The stock cooler should work well enough if you aren't overclocking and your case has adequate airflow, also you can always replace it with an aftermarket cooler if this is not successful. If your memory was defective, and you applied OS updates, installed drivers/programs while using the defective memory then the files passed through said memory may have become corrupted on their way to being written to disk. In short, your old memory may still be causing some of your BSOD issues, the memory may have been removed but its effects may still be lingering.

It depends on your equipment and configuration if you will be able to use per packet or per stream/flow load balancing. I know per packet is supported by some Brocade hardware. More information is always welcome. There may be a better alternative solution that someone could recommend if they knew more specifics.