SPARTAN VI

I assume you needed a monitor as well, since you said you "prefer" 1440p...  leaves you $150 for a case, keyboard and mouse.  Those are subjective, so I left those to you.
 
PCPartPicker Part List
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X 3.8 GHz 8-Core Processor  (Purchased For $0.00) 
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler  ($33.90 @ Amazon) 
Motherboard: ASRock B550M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard  ($89.99 @ Newegg) 
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory  ($59.99 @ Amazon) 
Storage: Samsung 870 Evo 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive  (Purchased For $0.00) 
Video Card: Sapphire PULSE Radeon RX 7800 XT 16 GB Video Card  ($499.99 @ Newegg) 
Power Supply: Thermaltake Toughpower GF1 PE 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  ($99.99 @ Amazon) 
Monitor: Asus TUF Gaming VG27AQ 27.0" 2560 x 1440 165 Hz Monitor  ($269.00 @ Amazon) 
Total: $1052.86
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-11-27 13:40 EST-0500

That would kind of defeat the point though, every person should get the best advice possible not just one person who we think is more important. 

Couple errors I noticed:

@3:25 Your reddit build states 16GB in the voice over but the label shows 32GB. Idk if this was already caught.

@11:01 the label says Corsair RMe power supply but the video shows a Seasonic PSU

This is the solution I would want to go with.
 
This is the solution I would actually go with. 

It arrived!

Bottom drawer complete; have just ordered the motherboard (below), will have to perfect its placement/sizing once it arrives. 

So I have a ender 3d v2 and I like the area it can print.
 
Thats it. Everything else I hate about it and it's a pos. I've replaced half the printer because it's just been breaking left and right. I think I've only had 60 successful prints and maybe at this point 1000 fails. I literally have a garbage bag 2/3's full of failed prints. Whatever it was supposed to do to help me and make prototyping things faster it did not and tonight has been it. I almost tossed it in the garbage if my roommate didnt stop me because for some reason it just decided to yeet it's rubber heat shield on a 20 hour print that only had an hour left and it failed.
 
it printed best in the first 3 weeks we had it. Then about half the successful prints were made after that it's been one thing after the other that went wrong and it's been causing me so much stress and agony I never want to touch it again and literally put it on the street for free.
 
I just want a 3d printer where I load in my model, hit the print button and it prints. NOTHING ELSE. I am super done with this crap and huge waste of time.
 
 
Sorry if I sound frustrated it's because I am. It once again failed and this is it i'm kicking it out.

My custom-loop custom desk-pc-build, with all its 'customness' glory to be revealed when complete!

 
 

 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Feel free to reach out if you have questions 🧐

Bad ass!

 

I think it will be uncomfortable for you, especially if you're not used to a claw grip. I tried a variety of mice after my G602 bit the dust, which was a perfect size for my hand too (just under 8" from middle finger to palm). The G502 is my current daily driver (hair too small for me), but I also tested a G203, which has basically identical dimensions to the G305, and it forced my hand into an uncomfortable claw grip. Only reason I don't use a G604 is because I actually prefer the 3 thumb buttons versus 6 thumb buttons. 

You secured a fake nvme SSDs to your motherboard with a drywall screw?

this is really not how it works, the deciding factor is the overall quality and transient power spikes handling,  which i doubt OPs unit is any good at,  but generally 550w should be plenty. 
 
I can run my setup 3060+3070 with a bequiet 500w no problems whatsoever for example. 
 
But yeah, OP should def get a better psu, 750w is way overkill though,  my corsair RMI 650 uses 500w *max* and that's with Prime95 + Superposition running at the same time...

In my experience 550W is more than enough for a RTX 3070. In fact, it's what Guru3D recommends.
 
Personally, I've been running my 550W Seasonic Prime Ultra for the last 2+ years on a RTX 3070 Founders. My meter at the outlet read 405W at full-tilt (100% load on GPU and CPU), including 1 of my displays, 1x M.2 SSD, 3x SATA SSDs, 1x SSHD, and 5 fans. This was on a 5600X and RTX 3070 Founders simultaneously running the stress tests in OCCT and Furmark.

Yeah about that, I am running a 3070 on a old stock 7 year old (old stock, got it brand new this year) seasonic PSU with just 650w rating on 12v. Did not trigger OCP not once even though card is overclocked. Quality != Wattage.
Single use OCP ™

1 - Do you play any of these games that have the 6700XT faster or slower than the 3060Ti?

2 - What do you actually get out of this swap, why not just leave it as is and save the headache of swaps for give or take...similar performance.
 
3 - For the games that actually have a decent gain, does it really matter when many games are ONE and DONE, finished to barely/never be played again.

Correct, this is most often referred to as the videocard's height. Sometimes this is also conveyed in terms of how many expansion "slots" it will occupy. E.g. an Asus RTX 3060 Ti STRIX occupies 2.9 slots.
 
 

It speaks to a larger trend of people sitting like a spring loaded trap waiting for the tiniest possible perceived (or even imagined) transgression and then exploding and going for the throat. The reaction to everything from the biggest shit show to the tiniest transgression is the same: overreaction to the point of utter meaninglessness.
 

🙂
They really got...
 
😎
Egg on their face.

This thread: 
(Edit) Threads merged

CL18 at 3600 MHz is the same absolute latency as CL16 at 3200 MHz. Latency is measured in clock cycles and 18 clock cycles at 3600 MHz take 10 nanoseconds, same as 16 clock cycles at 3200 MHz, so latency is the same but speed is slightly faster.

Install a stable operating system for a start. These types of issues are why there are testing releases for software. So either report them to AMD and Microsoft and hope that they will fix it or install Windows 10.

Coil whine, is completely normal.

Are you sure there is no auto stop below 60 C? Most graphics cards sold today have a zero RPM mode on them that do not turn the fans on until the GPU gets above 60 C. 

That looks like the WiFi device, you snapped one of the antenna connections. 

Your temperatures are fine. Dont worry about it.