Mummy84

OK, thx! I just member that i had to do something to my client in begining of my folding days to get 0x17 (i runned HD7970 on that point). And so i was thinking it gos both ways. well i have seen 3 of these 15hour WU's now and all of them have finished fine just slowly. Too bad for those who would like to run them as there is only so much of them rigth? I member last year or beging of this year, we lack of WU's(at least on server that my client get's them)

OK. Thanks for response! If it aint driver(344.75) issue, then is there away to left these cores/projects for those, who benefits them more?

Hmm sorry little noob here I'm runing Windows 64 bit and i have just reasenly get this "FahCore 0x18" after i installed my new GTX 980 over my old HD7970 and after that GPU PPD is around 83000ppd. If for some miracle i get 0x17 then GPU PPD jumps to around 300000PPD so i ges my pc works fine and 0x18 is just beter for older card or what?

Hi, Side note if you can leave with rad outside the case like in oldays (thats why there are grommets back of the case), then it would take allso that warm radiator outside.... - noisier - takes more space - kinda "uglyer"

Great news! Atleast my home/room has bean warm at this winter May need to slow down(or stop) on summer for it but will be back again in next winter Cheers Mummy

Thanks for the tip! Asked this from my dealer and yeah they just washed hands of it. ofcorse they dont take EVGA warrenty away, but you just have to, deal directly with EVGA and leave dealer out of it. Only thing is shipping cost can be more then new product from us to them and back so (debending what part of the world EVGA want customer to ship it). So its anyones luck in here, specialy if you did something wrong with installing aircooler back on. Anyways i think i know now my next GPU product brand, Cheers Mummy

Yep, whent back looking as every temp under roomtemp isnt real and so those looked unreal to be true. So sorry on wrong info! I membered idle temps, that dont make dam in any messure point. Yeah i dont use hp, my psu is passive, i have 4670k, hd7970 under alphacool "monsta 480" and still i plame corsair sp low model to be loud as hell but when you come from air cooling i bet those fans under wc aint runing that fast to notice under normal psu with fulltime fan. Edit: 75c* on air 46c* on water. says the "full review" picture. That is true, but waranty. 2x 5970 get to RMA before i even installed Windows. 2x 5970 lasted year and had waterblock on, so bye bye. 7970 lasted year too. Yeah resently AMD so maybe its it, but will see after 800 or so. Thats why im personaly looking allready custom wc friendly solutions or manufactures who dont maind wc(in Finland).

Gpu's dont need much cooling to be much cooler. Example on that card i havent seen result of over 30c* even uderload, when watercooled. So do you like to bay 100€ for extra 2 c* and little quiter pc is up to you. Remeber those fans dont need to run full speed when watercooled (there is software for that) and when they need run for WRM (that wc dont cool it) you are more likely to play a game when it dosent matter anyway.

Hi, What MB you are thinking to water cool? example NF4 (active cooling) its great to have for quieter system. I allways watercool my MB's if i can, but then again, i dont WC my memory. Figure out, why

Well there is point to go poseidon. Mainly because warranty. and if you look results Those temps arent too high are they? ...~30C on load?? Even i am thinking buying one as all ~6 last cards has shown sings of dieing in 2 years of use before replacement. They just dont make them like they use to with 10 year warranty and all.

Hi, Gpus dont run so hot under water so allmost all heat comes from CPU, but haswell aint couldest thing on earth, so i would bet its cutting the edge on that slim rad. I would take thicker rad, then fans on bothside the rad for looks if thats in your maind.

Oops, didnt menth that those was for 12v use, my bad. Just that 300v AC model or what country line ups those are dont but that AC straigth to pump, they convert it to close 12v DC and so they work as well as pc ones. Just power input is different. And no i dont think they work with 12v DC.

That was made in days when you didnt have Power on grafick cards so no dont use as powerdelivery wouldnt get so much cooling. E: Allso there ain't cooling for memory on that block. And at CPU i would only use it in crappy fun PC that you coud trough spare parts and dont give a dam if something gos in flames. You would need to make plate for that to fit in CPU socket and also make sure that those hard fittings can be free with tube and secureclamp. So try to get more money for blocks that are made for those parts or forget it on that system. You also woid warenty in many parts if you fit watercooling(at least in my country) and may allso lose incurens in some countrys. so yeah this isnt allways fun under the sun. Edit2: https://www.asus.com/Graphics_Cards/ROG_POSEIDONGTX780P3GD5/ <- This migth be the card you to look for it hase watercooling already fitted and it allso works with air only!

Eheim makes pc pumps too and if you look more into it there arent just one model on PC side. Mine Aquastream XT (from Aquacomputer) waterpump is Eheim 1046 pump so dont rush on thing. How good conventer there is, inside for pc use is another thing, but anyways aquarium pumps has bean used before on pc watercooling as there has bean car radiators and so on. If you deside to use those pumps, then dont use force on inlets and outlets! That pumpmodel is know on weak plastic support at those points. Too much tighten in fitting (specially metal fitting) will make atleas hairline crack in plastic where that water, can blead out.

yep, main works now allso. THX! Cheers, Mummy

Empty work server message here too on GPU, with 7970

Hi there, Lastday (17.3.2014) i get those "Failed to get assignment from 'assing-GPU...". When i get back from work i restarted the client, as it didnt fix it i also paused and started GPU folding again and that seam to work for me. Today when i get back from work i see again "Failed to get assignment from 'assing-GPU..." again. This time after i restarted the clien it cant get re conection to folding host it just says "connecting" (127.0.0.1.xxxx) and webclient says time out after 30s So can anyone else reconnect? I mean is it down for new clients or is it just my connection to that server, thats getting weard? Cheers Mummy Edit: Never maind rebooting the hole system did the trig for connecting to host. Still cant get GPU WU's

Hi, Your tube run looks nice.Remember to look after longruns again as warm tubes tend to kink toomuch sometimes(as you only use tube to make the turns). No res or did i mis it in that dark picture?

Looking the rad page i get from the info and the picture that it has fixed fitings of size 9,5mm. So 8-9mm iner diameter tube, would be my choge for that. Edit: But like others say better order them firsth an look your self. that is if you still want those.

Hi, again So i see we need little clearing on fans AF or SP. hopefully this helps. - AF-fan's have many plates and you can allmost allways see air cap betwean them. - AF-fans moves lot of air, but if its mounted in any heatsink, radiator, HDD case so it would blow air tru it the air comes back trough the plades and so some of the performance gets lost there. - SP-fans plates are large and in flat order and there aint air cap betwean them. - SP-fans moves less air then AF-fans but when installed on heatsink,rad,... the air cant come back as those plates block them and so it hase presure.... So in anycase of rad or heatsink it isnt how much air they move in clare space. Its more of the presure they can creat. Heres some more viedos to clear the difference. You can see clear difference on plate style on fans at taple. For SP For AF EDIT2. And yeah looking your fan links the firsth is only one for SP(as the name ) if you look those plaets on them you can see, large flat lined plates gets the cake.

Hi there, As it may say my signature (dont member anymore, whats in it ) i have 480 monsta. Yeah, Full cupper and size win me over. At the moment it isnt in use as im modding my new case Colossus to have it in, but in brevius it was runing ith push setup with out problem (Sp120 quiet). It dosent mutter is it push or pull same mount of air comes out. To me, it was just for looks, on push. There is planty of cooper are to get the heat out on this, so i dont see even with your setup the need, for Push and pull setup. For rad fan Sp is everiting and not Af, so look that and speed as Warmmilk's link shows to... Video for it by Linus both of your liks shows kinda AF fans so not so great for rads.

Hi Dan, I would say you need to make your own topic for your Q. as This is 101 and not "hotline" (to get anser for your rig) But in general. If you are planing to WC both, CPU and GPU, then I would look in customcooling for Pros. and Cons . and add them up. I would say there is AIO for GPUs but to ask for all GPUs its too much as you may need to cool your power components too and so i wouldnt trust my GPU to every AIOs in hand.. Needles to say, i have full customcooling.

Yeah, thats kinda rigth thing to say for beginners. But saying Always in end. It's like saying, "dont look more in to it". Mean if in some case's you would get nicer looking looping without this rule its kind of dahh, why you used it? ...if you know how to bleed it, it would be fine. Anyways, great quide! Need to read more in to it, if i get some more tips in my own ones.. Edit: http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/91813-how-powerful-of-a-pump-to-get/ Example that would work on firsth post. if res was after pump and it was bleed rigth. Just got in to my eye, after leveing this topic sorry

As a car fixer, i see your point, but my coolant just don get so hot to make difference in this sytem. But anyways.. On the point. If you had your res in anyware of the colsed loop it shouldent make nay differece. Meaning same mount of water most go in as go out.

"MAKE SURE YOU ALWAYS, ALWAYS PUT YOUR RES IN FRONT OF YOUR PUMP IN YOUR LOOP. ALWAYS." WHY? Newton's law's dont work here? ...every action has an equal and opposite reaction. I would say if you want to add res it's most likely easyer to set before waterpump. As you could run pump on bleeding. If im not wrong Linus have video on YouTube with howto bleed system without res, via T-hose. Example my current custom watercool system dont have res or t-hose. It RAD has bleed screw filled up. No air in hole water cooling = Water pump can run full speed, without makeing no air in circule. Edit: "Water should always be directly fed from your res to you pump." Yep thats why i think is the hole reason why every one wants it in before water pump. Its just easy.