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BenR31415

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Everything posted by BenR31415

  1. Hey guys, left my computer on all day and came back to this: https://youtu.be/FlivdAKoL-o My graphics card was at 85° when I got home, I turned it off and left it for a while and turned it back on to find this. My cooler is an EK MLC Phoenix unit with an EK MLC Vega block and a 140mm radiator/pump/resivoir combo. I believe the pump is a DDC for memory. Before this the computer was absolutely silent, with the fan turning slowly at load, and off completely at idle. Resivoir is around half full, do I just fill it up more (I don't have any ek cryofuel handy), or is the unit faulty? I've had it for around a month.
  2. Thanks for the input! I've decided on the netcomm, the d-link's price went up by $50 so I figured may as well give the cheaper option a try.
  3. Long story short, AP isn't assigning IP addresses and terrible ISP provided modem router's wireless router stopped working. After months of troubleshooting, my parents and I have decided on an all in one solution. We need a VDSL2 modem router with wireless AC, and VoIP integrated. I found four on the market, and only two I could buy in australia. Netcomm Wireless NF18ACV - $139 D-Link DVA2800 - $238 The only spec difference I can see is a USB 3 port on the netgear, when we have a NAS already. We can pay for the more expensive unit, but just can't find a reason to pay the $100 difference. Is there one I'm not seeing? Are there other options that meet my requirements and you think are better choices?
  4. Hey guys, sorry if this is meant to be in watercooling, I wasn't too sure. I've got a reference Vega 64 that I'm wanting to upgrade to mainly get rid of nose but some extra performance would be nice, and I was looking at getting the ek MLC Phoenix kit, with a 140mm radiator (biggest I can fit in my s340 elite as I already have an H110i for my processor). I've ruled out the Morpheus because it'll clear out basically all my extra expansion slots, and won't look as nice. However, in Australia Vega LCs have dropped in price, an it's pretty similar in cost (maybe an extra $50 or so) to sell my reference 64 and buy a grand new 64 LC. The 64 LC will obviously look a lot nicer, and mean that I don't have to drill holes to externally top mount my radiator, but I will give up some radiator area, have the hassle of selling something for the first time, push more heat, and because I'm traveling for the next few weeks I won't be able to act on it now and might miss out if prices increase. What would you all suggest, and Merry Christmas / happy holidays!
  5. Yeah it's tricky isn't it, in a good way though AMD second gen launch reviews were probably assuming old pricing, but now that the pricing has dropped there more good options. OP can't really go wrong with any of these chips, I guess whichever one is on a good sale at the time the computer is built.
  6. Any six core ryzen 5 second gen can handle 1080p @ 60FPS without breaking a sweat. My R7 1700 can play plenty of games at 200+FPS with very little CPU usage, and ryzen 2nd gen is a fair amount faster than first gen. AM4 platform is amazing, guaranteed support on the socket for at least two more generations for future cheap upgrades. It also performs much better if you ever want to stream, video edit or anything of the sort, and you will never notice a difference while gaming, especially at 60FPS which both can handle easily. I'd recommend an R5 2600x personally, but there are plenty of other good options in AMD's lineup.
  7. As for the external power brick, it's probably something you shouldn't be looking at unless you are wanting to spend lots on a case / power supply.
  8. Turns out it was an issue where the AP needed to be plugged directly into the router instead of through my switch, it's honestly a bit strange but at least it's working now. Thanks again for your advice, I really appreciate your time.
  9. Thanks for the reply! I can still plug in new devices into ethernet and get them to work, would this still be a possibility?
  10. TL;DR Any ideas to why AP suddenly stopped handing out IP addresses? Hey guys, I've got a 28/6mbps VDSL2 service, and was using the stock 802.11n modem router provided by my ISP (Huawei HG658). It got to the point where to get a decent range signal without dropping every 2 seconds, I had to be standing 2m away from the router. My grandad had a spare Telstra Gateway Max (Technicolor TG799vac) which seems to support AC1300 speeds. I tried to set it up as my router, modem, DHCP server etc but failed, and it was just running as an AP. This worked great for about two weeks, great speeds and range, no connection issues. Then, nothing could obtain an IP address over Wi-Fi. All my critical equipment (desktop, laptop, NAS) are connected through a 16 port switch, but the real issue is that nobody's phones can connect, and I only have 1GB of data. I've done the basic turn it off for a couple of days, turn it on again and same issue. I've been putting up with it over a month because of exams, but it's infuriating and I now have some time to troubleshoot. I would go back to my existing Huawei with poor range, but I can't get wireless to turn on at all, it's "enabled" in the config but the WLAN light is off and it's producing no wireless signal. I was just going to buy a Ubiquiti AP like a UAP-AC-LITE, but my dad isn't so keen on spending that much when we have a lot of equipment already and I might be moving out in around 6 months anyway. Any feedback would be much appreciated.
  11. Corsair MM300 maybe? It's still gonna be pretty similar to the qck. Something like the roccat hiro 3d is probably perfect for you, but it's expensive. Take your pick.
  12. Less friction == faster speeds. Less friction == harder to control.
  13. I went from a roccat raivo to a qck+, and from a kone xtd to a g502. I find the hard mousepads easier to move around but less accurate. The other thing that I noticed is that stuff gets on the hard one more that interferes with tracking, however it is easier to clean. I would personally say go for a regular qck or a mini, or a special edition if you want something a bit nicer. If you want a hard one, I can't imagine a metal one being all that nice (and I've heard that the surface becomes scratched in less than a year). That being said I've never tried one. Edit: raivo not taito
  14. Sorry I completely mistyped, the prices were $2850 and $2600 for the newer model. Still worth going for the 32GB 1TB with the 7700HQ in that case?
  15. Hey guys, I'm weighing up between two different XPS 15 models. I can get the new XPS 15 9570 with 16GB of RAM and 512GB SSD for A$2850. This one has a six core 8750H. Based on all other dell laptops, I should be able to get it for A$2600 in a few month's time. I can get the older generation XPS 15 9560 with 32GB of RAM and a 1TB SSD for $A2550. Unfortunately, this one only has a 7700HQ. I'll be studying at university next year, and will need something fast for quite heavy multitasking. I often have over 100 chrome tabs open at once, along with multiple other programs such as photoshop, discord, CAD software etc. These are across multiple workspaces. I need a laptop that is built well, has a high resolution display so I can reduce the scaling and have tons of screen real estate, and very respectable battery life (not needing to take my charger with me). I've already got a desktop with an eight core, 32GB of RAM and a vega 64 which will be my main work computer. This will be just what I use when I'm out and about. Does anyone have any feedback as to what would be a better choice? Edit: I can't type prices
  16. Hey guys, I'm getting a new laptop with a thunderbolt 3 port (hopefully an XPS 15 9570), and I'd like to have fast transfers between it and my all solid state desktop. My motherboard is an Crosshair VI hero from ASUS, which has a 10g USB 3.1 USB C connection. Ideally I'd like to plug in the computers directly into each other over a simple, inexpensive USB C-C cable, and have a virtual ethernet connection running between them, so I can file share between the computers using Windows Group Policy. Yes, I could buy a PCIe NIC for my desktop for $150 and a TB3 to 10gbe adaptor for $500, but this is just too expensive. I'd say I'd be happy to pay $100 max. Is there any way that I could set up the port on my desktop so that it pretends to be a USB NIC for both ends so that I could implement a windows group policy to handle the filesharing to have significantly faster than gigabit speeds? Are there any other approaches that could achieve fast file transfers between these devices? Thanks for your help, Ben
  17. If you want to spend around A$200 on a monitor, just get it. Sale ends midnight tonight, you've got an hour and forty mintues buddy
  18. Nope. PCPP says that your list uses 350W, however it is a little conservative I've found. 650W would be a comfortable size, allowing for upgrades as well. Please don't upgrade your power supply though, it's a waste of money when you already have something solid that works.
  19. The cheapest 144hz G-Sync monitor here is A$500. plus shipping. This thing is A$200, free shipping. More than 2.5x the price? "some extra". Exactly.
  20. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Intel-Gigabit-1Gb-Quad-Port-ethernet-card/112752076594?hash=item1a408c2732:g:I8gAAOSws6ZaBDKd This is way cheaper. If you need full height (although you could take a dremmel to that half height one) http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Dell-HM9JY-Intel-Pro-1000-ET-Quad-Port-PCI-E-Gigabit-NIC-High-Profile/222826894991?hash=item33e184968f:g:HrcAAOSwJc9aZCY0
  21. I have that exact monitor you are talking about. Honestly I haven't noticed any ghosting whatsoever, but taking a picture reveals a bit of ghosting: https://i.imgur.com/TU8EpJB.jpg Honestly I'm super super happy with it, colours are a bit washed out and the non adjustable stand is a bit of a bummer but for this price I can't complain whatsoever.
  22. I haven't noticed any ghosting or anything, that being said it's the only 144hz monitor that I've used. No complaints there. Taking a picture while moving the mouse revealed a tiny bit of ghosting, but honestly I haven't noticed it at all without the aid of a camera. I took multiple photos and this was the most ghosting that was shown (hard conditions, grey background etc: Keep in mind that I have never noticed any sort of ghosting, and the only way was using my phone camera. I have Kogan's 1440p IPS monitor as well (discontinued) and honestly the ghosting and input latency is pretty horrible and noticeable (14ms or so IIRC) but I have had absolutely zero issues with this on the 144hz monitor. As for the freesync, I've been running it with my Vega 64. Freesync works and is recognized in the AMD drivers. I have had it flicker briefly when going fullscreen into a game or something, but aside from that it has worked flawlessly. I believe the freesync range is pretty generous too, at 35-144hz. Edit: Colours aren't as washed out as it looks like in the above picture, https://i.imgur.com/SxrVMdt.jpg is more what it looks like true to life.
  23. Hey guys, here's the deal. https://www.kogan.com/au/buy/kogan-24-led-144hz-gaming-freesync-monitor/ I use this monitor myself and I am really happy with it. First of all, at this price it's half the price of anything else, next cheapest I found is an AOC for over $360 shipped. Input lag is really low, viewing angles are surprisingly good, matte, plenty of IO. The things I don't like is that colours are washed out and that the stand isn't adjustable, but for this price you can't go wrong. Highly recommended, it's the cheapest it's ever been and I would buy again even at 1.5x the price it is now. (like I paid for it) If you're in the market for a gaming monitor around this price and live in Australia, this is an absolute steal.
  24. Why do you want AIO? I used one as a first system builder, and kinda regretted it (somewhat). The good things about them is that they have fancy LEDs, cool really well, can be installed easily and can deliver heaps of cooling at reasonably low noise. The issue is that they're typically more expensive than a comparable air cooler, louder, more prone to leaks, less reliable, more easy to break. Let me explain: I have a top of the line (when I bought it) Corsair H115i because I wanted the best on the market, because I never wanted to worry about temperatures again, and wanted a really quiet rig. The first issue was that the corsair software broke all the time (most likely due to a USB hub, but still) meaning that I had no easy way to control the unit, and it reverted to its "normal" (uncomfortably loud) setting whenever this happened. Then the pump died, temps were over 100 degrees, and then the computer straight refused to boot. If it was on a day where a project was due, I would have been screwed. On the top of the line corsair cooler. I got it replaced under warranty, but I had to pull out my stock cooler, buy some extra thermal paste, it was a pain. After the replacement unit, it too was pretty damn loud and had the same issues with the Corsair software. Because the included fan leads were too short to reach my motherboard, I replaced it with some of the best fans on the market, and they are super silent (never hear them). Now, the pump is by far the loudest part of my whole system at idle, and while it's not too bad it does get annoying. Would I have bought an AIO if I knew what I did now for my own personal system? Probably. Would I recommend other people getting one? I'm not so sure. My pump died, I've had a lot of issues getting it to be as quiet as expected, spent twice as much as an air cooler all up, and it's still louder than a comparable air cooler. Granted, it does look very nice and cools really really well, but is that really worth it? @JDE is saying that coolermaster units are leaky. I haven't heard that many stories of happening, but I do know that coolermaster doesn't have the best reputation on the market on making reliable, quiet, easy to work with units. For example, cords always kinked, heaps of pump wine (especially on things like the Fury X using a coolermaster designed cooler), them breaking etc. Seriously reconsider this choice.
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