Mashkal

Update: the issue was the GPU. Removing it fixed all of the problems

82 was the peak for a single one of the cores. The rest of the P cores peaked at 74 and the E cores peaked at 65. I think the temps are fine

1. I don't think so. When it does boot up, it boots into Linux just fine. And the POST screen should appear before the BIOS hands control over to the OS. 2. I can try reseating the CPU for sure. That might be it. There is enough thermal paste - I can see a bit of extra paste on the side of the cooler plate, so everything underneath should be covered. 3. The CPU temps are normal when it does boot successfully. psensor reports idle temps around 35C, and when running a game it peaks at 82C. 4. Hmm, I don't think I can get a DVD drive. In theory, a bootable USB drive should suffice, right? Anyway, I don't think it's the OS as the POST screen does not depend on the OS installed, and it should POST even with no storage drives whatsoever.

My system fails to boot quite frequently, and I can't figure out why. It happens maybe 80% of the time. The symptom is no display output whatsoever. I've tried both the GPU display output and the motherboard's built-in display output. The fans on both the GPU and CPU cooler spin up, and a USB keyboard clearly gets power, but there are no other signs of life. The really weird thing is how inconsistent it is - sometimes the keyboard works fine in that pressing the numlock key toggles the numlock light, and same with caps lock. But other times, the numlock lights up during boot but isn't responsive to key presses at all. When stuck in this unbooted state, sometimes it shuts down cleanly with a short press of the power button, and other times it requires a long press to do a hard shut down. Also, the mobo manual says that there should be debug LEDs on the mobo itself, but I haven't seen them light up ever. The BIOS flashback light also never turns on, even when doing the flashing procedure. So far, I've updated the mobo BIOS to the latest version (confirmed during one of the rare times that I was able to get into BIOS), cleared the CMOS, and tried using different display outputs. I'd rather not have to reseat the RAM as it's under the cooler and the PSU cables around there are very tight. Specs: ASRock Z690M-ITX/ax LGA 1700 Intel Z690 SATA 6Gb/s DDR4 Mini ITX Intel Motherboard (BIOS 11.03) Intel i5 13600k CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin PC RAM DDR4 3600 (PC4 28800) Desktop Memory Model CMK32GX4M2D3600C18 HYTE Revolt 3 built-in 700W PSU EVGA Geforce GTX 1060 (6GB) WD_BLACK 1TB SN770 NVMe Internal Gaming SSD Solid State Drive - Gen4 PCIe, M.2 2280, Up to 5,150 MB/s - WDS100T3X0E A few other HDDs and an old SSD Linux KDE Neon installed on the WD Black SSD.

That's why I'm asking here. I already know how to transfer files over a USB cable.

That's not wifi direct.

Samsung A8 2018

Anyone know if there's a way to do this without installing a client app on the windows side? I can see the Win10 computer from the android wifi direct share menu, but only if I open the 'Add device' menu in the Win10 settings. Even then, it fails to actually transfer the file. Currently I just use the Bluetooth file share feature but it's excruciatingly slow for large files and Wifi direct is supposedly orders of magnitude faster

I'm just worried because there are reviews like this on some other laptop SATA cables: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/customer-reviews/R3I4QR3CLYZOH5/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B07QG2Y1RL

I have an Acer Aspire a315-42-R3VN that I want to add a SATA drive to. The official parts for this are 50.HF4N2.001 and 55.HF4N2.002, but I can't find them on Amazon. There are a bunch of other SATA adapters though, such as this one: https://www.amazon.ca/BAY-Direct-Connector-15-J105TX-Compatible/dp/B07HFQ4RXC/ref=nav_ya_signin?pd_rd_w=TT5P6&pf_rd_p=4dc33e2e-16b5-4e12-aab9-e86d5748e0cb&pf_rd_r=VZD5YNFXSTRCPR1YBJ0K&pd_rd_r=515aa50b-3501-4a4a-bd43-f2b0a7084032&pd_rd_wg=oNZUt&pd_rd_i=B07HFQ4RXC&psc=1& Would this work instead of the official parts? The connector looks the same, and the board on the official part looks like doesn't do anything other than attach the ribbon cable to the SATA plug on the drive. I know the official parts are available on ebay and even Walmart, but I'd like to order from Amazon if possible. I got the part numbers from this post: https://community.acer.com/en/discussion/577765/acer-aspire-315-42-r3zh-parts-number

Well, I didn't end up booting off of the external drive. But, I did manage to run some programs directly off the drive, so.. mission partly accomplished.

The HDD works just fine; I just want to run some of the programs installed on the drive.

Following that procedure just leads to the same problem that I described in the OP.

Can you tell me how to do that? I heard that there are some registry tweaks that can be done to make windows think that the external drive is internal. Is that what you're talking about?

Ok, thanks for letting me know. I was hoping that I wouldn't have to reinstall all of my programs, but I guess that's impossible then.