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LordOfTime94

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About LordOfTime94

  • Birthday Apr 19, 1994

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    England
  • Interests
    Technology, Science, Music, Gaming, MLP,
  • Occupation
    1st Line Service Desk Analyst

System

  • CPU
    i7 4470k @ 3.4Ghz
  • Motherboard
    MSI Z87-GD65
  • RAM
    Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB @ 1333Mhz
  • GPU
    MSI GTX 760 OC
  • Case
    Cooler Master Storm Trooper
  • Storage
    Samsung 840 EVO 256GB SSD, WD 1TB Blue, WD 3TB Red
  • PSU
    EVGA 1000W P2
  • Display(s)
    AOC I2369Vm
  • Cooling
    Zalman LQ-310 CPU Cooler
  • Keyboard
    Logitech G710+
  • Mouse
    Logitech G502 Proteus Core
  • Operating System
    Windows 7 Professional
  • PCPartPicker URL

Recent Profile Visitors

734 profile views

LordOfTime94's Achievements

  1. Greetings, Once again, I'm looking to upgrade my setup. Since my GPU is dying, I figured it was time to upgrade it. I'd planned to get a GTX 1070 (probably Strix) and upgrade to a thin bezel 1440p 27" monitor. Then I found this little gem which messed it all up: http://www.ebuyer.com/742246-lg-27ud68p-27-ips-ultra-hd-4k-gaming-monitor-27ud68p. Since it isn't much more than a decent 1440p monitor, I figured "why not upgrade to 4k? Might be nice". Since I won't be paying for it immediately, I thought I might as well upgrade to a 1080 and get a bit smoother gameplay at 4k while I'm at it. The problem arises in what I should get to replace my additional monitors. I currently have 2 1080p 23" monitors: http://aoc-europe.com/en/products/I2369VM I plan on getting the 27" version of these (http://aoc-europe.com/en/products/i2769vm), still at 1080p, but I am unsure as to whether I need to upgrade them further or not. I've had a look around and I see conflicting statements on the resolution at 27". Some say that it becomes far too pixelated at 1080p and that I have to get 1440p, while other say it doesn't really matter and that it isn't necessary, especially for general media. Since these monitors will be my secondary and tertiary (either side of the 4k main), they'll mostly be used for Youtube, Netflix and spreadsheets/documents; gaming on them will be rare, if at all (likely RTS games). With this in mind, I don't think I'll be needing more than 1080p, Slight pixelation won't really matter to me with most media, and the main monitor certainly won't have that issue. TL;DR My main question, with a slight side note: should my additional monitors be 1080p or 1440p? Also, do you have any other recommendations for my monitor configuration? e.g. size, resolution, amount. (Please comment below)
  2. I would like the Blade since the 1060 means I could do some light gaming without the external dock. I'd use it to get some courses or programming done when I'm on the road or when it's quiet at work.
  3. Looks brilliant and seems like a nice thing to have, though I'm not sure if I'd have any way to actually use it.
  4. For now it's just me so I won't be needing the Xeon then. Had another look into it and while ECC does have benefits, the parts compatible are a bit too expensive and sparce for my tastes, so I'll stick with regular DIMM's for now. I'll start with Windows then until I've finished the build. Thanks, I'll dig deeper and see what I can find on Plex then. The Green/Blue wouldn't be running 24/7, it will be going into my main desktop as a replacement for the Red I am currently using. Agreed.
  5. Greetings, To add to the endless list of these posts, I'm planning to build my first NAS. This is mainly going to be used as a media center/backup (don't panic, the important stuff is backed up offsite as well). From reading some posts on here already I think I know what to go for, but I'd still like some advice on a few things first. Here is my current part list: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/JcMDbv Since I'm hoping to run this as a Plex server eventually, I think the i3 should be enough, though I have seen some recommendations to use a Xeon instead for the higher thread count. From what I can tell, using non-ECC RAM should be fine for home use, though ECC is still recommended. I'd need to change my motherboard to support this (which I'd prefer not to), and wondered if the swap would be worth it. I currently have around 2TB worth of stuff in my current external drive, and from this Paul's Hardware video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MEwMXsy9v2o&ab_channel=Paul%27sHardware) I think I should have around 5-6TB of usable space, which will be more than enough for quite a while. FreeNAS looks like the best way to go, though it might take me some time to understand how to use it. Would this be the better option or should I use Windows/Plex for now? Speaking of Plex, I am not entirely sure how large I need the SSD to be for it. Would I need something like a 256/512 or does that not matter? The 951 is going to be paired with a PCIe M.2 adapter, since the motherboard only has 4 SATA ports (unless someone can suggest an alternative, though I can't seem to find one that fits my needs) The PSU was going into my backup system but I've changed my mind on the case so I can get a different one now. I realise I could maybe build this a bit cheaper with mATX parts, but I'd be wasted and I want the smaller form factor. Side note: I currently have 1 of the WD Red's in my desktop, and I was planning to replace it with a WD Green 3/4TB to go for silence. However, since I am swapping my case for a Define R5 soon, I am not sure if it would matter between a Green or Blue since I probably won't hear it anyway. Also, since this drive will mostly have photos and videos, does the higher speed of the Blue make any real-world difference? Most of this isn't going to be bought immediately, in fact it'll probably be a few months before I even start, but I'd like to get a general idea of what would make a good NAS. TL;DR Is the i3 good enough or should I swap for a Xeon? Do I need ECC RAM? Windows or FreeNAS to begin with? What size SSD do I need for Plex? Green or Blue to replace the Red? Muffin? As always, any help is appreciated. Regards, LoT /)
  6. Aaand we are back in business. Can't believe it was something that simple (and that I was so scared to try it again) Had a couple issues detecting the connection (same as the last time I reset it), but it got there in the end. Thanks for the help
  7. I'll try that then and see if it works.
  8. Not yet, though I was thinking that would be needed. I'd prefer to leave that as a last resort though, just it case it makes things worse (it has happened before).
  9. Hi, As the title suggests, I'm currently having a very strange issue with my network. I am currently able to connect to the internet, however there are properties of this connection that are not only confusing, but annoying. For a while now I have only been able to connect to the internet by setting a static IP on my devices. If not, the devices would detect the connection, but not have access to the internet. While a bit odd, this has worked fine until now. Today, I started getting disconnected from my games and having issues loading some websites. I rebooted my PC and router since it had been a few days and from that point, I could not connect at all. Diagnostics showed that the issue was with the Windows Firewall. I allowed the programs that were prompting for access (i.e. Chrome, Teamspeak, etc), but still no results. I disabled the firewall, but still got nothing. I jumped back and forth with the static IP and firewall settings until eventually it would connect, but at 1/7th the regular speed. I still had some issues connecting to games, so I tried logging into my router settings (Netgear Nighthawk AC1900). I receive this error when trying to log in: This site can’t be reached. www.routerlogin.net’s server DNS address could not be found. I looked up a few troubleshooting steps on this which mostly point to flushing the DNS and restarting the router. These steps did nothing, though I did notice another message afterwards from GlassWire. Every few minutes Glasswire will show an alert stating: ARP table content changed. IP: 192.168.1.1 Old MAC: e4-f4-c6-12-96-5e, New MAC: 62-d3-f7-e0-5c-d0. These 2 MAC address are constantly switching between one another. Since I couldn't access the web portal, I checked the software installed and noticed it showed 6 devices connected to my network, yet I only have 3 that connect (desktop, phone, tablet) Glasswire is currently showing nothing throttling the connection or trying to use another application, though I am not sure if this will show with the free version. I have thought about just resetting the router and starting from scratch, since the settings I created before might have borked everything, plus I can't fix them anyway without access to the web portal. Right now I can't even access the settings via the software since it registers that my router is not supported, yet Netgear's own website states otherwise. After several reboots I am finally able to connect again, but still with a speed of 10 up, 1 down (when I'm paying for 70 up, 20 down). This issues has been bugging me for hours and I could really use some advice on where to proceed next. Let me know if you require more information. Any help is appreciated, Regards, LoT /)
  10. Nice. That looks pretty good, though I think I'm going to reverse the main colours for mine (black case with blue/white components) Thanks for the suggestion.
  11. Sounds like a good idea, just not too sure what combination to go with (i.e. which parts are what colour) That's what I was also thinking about it being unique, and I don't really have to facilities or space to paint anything myself, so that won't be happening. Plus, I'm not that creative when it comes to designing things. Parts: The 3TB I run now is about half full and I plan to fill it some more in the future, so I'd like to have equal or more space when I replace it. The 1TB SSD is to merge my C and Program drives, more so for Steam so I don't have to worry about how many games I have installed. Was thinking of getting an M.2 with the new board but I've realised it wouldn't make much of a difference with gaming. While running 16GB now I typically reach around 60-70% RAM usage daily with games and browsers running, occasionally reaching 80-90% (so many Chrome tabs, so little time). This why I wanted to upgrade to 32GB, to avoid any potential issues, especially when I get a 3rd monitor and will be more running. (Better to have and not need it, I suppose?) And yes, I know the PSU is overkill (at least, now I do). When I built this system I had planned to go SLI eventually and this was a way of "future-proofing" it. In hindsight, I realise that it was unnecessary, though I may replace it for a more quiet one at some point.
  12. Greetings, Not sure if this belong here or in another subforum, so let me know if I dun goofed. Over the next few months I'm planning to rebuild my main desktop to give it a bit more personality and suit my needs better. Here is what I have so far: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/gsTFFT Here is what I plan to have right now: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/chY4K8 (Note: the 3 Noctua fans are LTT editions) My plan to make the build not only silent, but also give it somewhat of a colour theme. The problem I'm running into is that I'm not sure what theme I should go with. Now while I know that this is mostly a personal choice, I'd like some advice on which would (hopefully) look better. The case is pretty much set, since the Define R5 suits my needs perfectly. The question is: which colour should I choose? Blue is going to be a recurring secondary colour, so that is set too. (though I could change it to primary if someone can suggest a case/mod) Right now I'm thinking of getting the Blackout build since black/blue would be easy and somewhat suit my setup already. But that seems a bit too...easy. I've seen a few of them around and I would prefer to have something a bit more unique (though I think that might be near impossible). I was thinking white/blue since that looks quite nice and it would match one of my favourite characters (Vinyl Scratch), though it doesn't quite suit me personally as much. The other option would be silver/titanium and blue which would provide a balance of sorts between the former 2, but I've found it's much harder to build around that. If you can suggest any parts to go along with your choice, that would be great as well. Let me know which one you think I should choose below, or if there is another option I missed. Any advice is appreciated, Regards, LoT /)
  13. Greetings, As mentioned in a previous post, I'm currently in the process of building my backup/LAN rig. I have most of the parts already but, as the title suggests, I'm stuck as to which motherboard to choose. Current part list: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/shbFBm The final build: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/GH7Pt6 With this being both Skylake and an ITX rig, I'm extremely limited in my options. The Asus board listed is currently my first choice, though I did get the chance to try out the MSI Z170i Gaming Pro, though I had to return it due to a fault. After doing so, I realized that the board wouldn't actually fit the M.2 drive I'd hoped to get (950 pro), but now I'm not even sure if I would need that. From what I've seen, having the 950 wouldn't make much difference since I'll only be running some games on it at most (i.e. GTA V, Warframe, Sins of a Solar Empire). Also, I couldn't really see myself using the DAC/audio USB port since anything like that will be on my main rig. One of the few downfalls I've found with the Asus however is that Wifi mobile that must be attached. This isn't as much of an issue but I would have preferred to have aerials like with the MSI board. (Side question: could I use aerials/antennae like that on the board instead of the provided mobile?) I've also been thinking that going with a Z170 board might not be needed either. I want to learn how to overclock, and while I will be somewhat limited with the ITX form-factor and CPU cooler, it'd still be nice to get that little bit extra performance. While this is just a backup build, I would like some more options with it and it'd be nice to tinker around with the UEFI and overclocking. I've also found that most of the boards with AC wifi are Z170, which is a feature I would like to have. That being said, since this is a backup I wouldn't be using it that much, even while working on upgrading/reworking the main rig, so I can see some of this performance potentially going to waste. I've looked at a few other boards but the MSI and Asus are currently the main contenders. In terms of price, I'm hoping to stay below £150, but if there are no other options to fit my needs, I might be will to splash out a little more on it. So to round out the main points of yet another ramble: Which of the boards do you think I should go with? Are there any other options that I've missed? Should I change to something low-end like a B150 and an i3? Can I use 3rd party antennae on a motherboard with wifi? Feel free to critique the rest of my build if you think there are better options for my other parts too. Any advise is appreciated, Regards, LoT /)
  14. Hi again, Having a slight issue with my new build and I'm hoping to get some advice. Here is the build I'm using: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/82Mg8d After installing Windows 10 Pro fresh onto my new system, I am unable to connect to my home network via ethernet or Wifi (both 2.4 GHz and 5GHz AC). The connection shows up as "Unidentified network" with "No Internet" for ethernet, and "No Internet, secured" for Wifi. I am able to connect fine on my other devices such as desktop, phone and tablet. So far these are the troubleshooting steps I have done (in no particular order): Restarted the router Reset the router Deleted Winsock and Winsock 2 registry keys (as found here: http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/insider/forum/insider_wintp-insider_web/windows-socket-registry-entries-missing-according/5f54e033-9d49-4de0-bf23-576653641b20?auth=1) Reset netsh Winsock (as above) Disable Antivirus and firewall Disabled and re-enabled network controller, ethernet and wireless drivers Reinstalled ethernet and wireless drivers with latest available from MSI and Intel (Intel listed here: https://downloadcenter.intel.com/download/25769/Network-Adapter-Driver-for-Windows-10) Flushed DNS Run netcfg -d All steps listed here: http://windows.microsoft.com/en-gb/windows-10/fix-network-connection-issues IPCONFIG /release, /renew Rebooted several times Connected the system directed to the router and to my powerline adapter (which my working desktop is connected to) Enabled network stack in BIOS I am able to ping the machine, and run ipconfig which gives an IP but no default gateway. Wireless LAN Adapter shows as "Media disconnected" I have received several error messages during my troubleshooting, such as: could not add the requested feature blocked by group policy ethernet doesn't have a valid ip configuration An error occurred while releasing interface Ethernet : An address has not yet been associated with the network endpoint The Windows troubleshooter is no longer finding any issues. I have been searching for the past couple hours but can find nothing else to troubleshoot this. I've also submitted this on the Microsoft Forums, but have got nothing helpful so far. Any help is appreciated, Regards, LoT /)
  15. I had planned to do that with the G4400, once I find the new BIOS version and learn how to do it of course.
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