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WelshDdraig

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Everything posted by WelshDdraig

  1. TL;DR: I don't think this is the right way to see a CPU's architecture...


    Well, I had an old C2D E6420 CPU laying around and thought - why not try and get the heat spreader off and look at the die as I was planning on making a key change from it...

    Key word - Was...
    I may or may not have - and by that - I did, split the die completely in half. Not a crack, on the face of it. No. A clean slide right through.
    Now I know - either I need to be more careful if I do this again or Intel used a solder on this chip... (Pictures in Spoiler)

    Spoiler

     

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    1. Sauron

      Sauron

      I guess now it's a core 1 single

  2. Never really used Office 2010 - I kind of skipped over that one. I was on Office 2003 for a long time, then I got a copy of 2007 on disk (which I still have somewhere) with a laptop I bought then went straight to Office 2013 and 365. Shame this has reached EOL, but 365 is not the end of the world (unless you've forgotten your managed accounts password and can't do updates because you can't sign in - don't ask me how I know...)
  3. Hi everyone, Hopefully a quick one for you - if you can help, that'd be much appreciated. My RTX 2060 Super has one of - if not, THE worst heatsinks I have ever seen on a GPU. Its a RTX 2060 Super Windforce OC (2 fans) from Gigabyte. This "cooler" is shockingly bad. My temperatures are usually pinned at the 88°C limit in MSI Afterburner, and that is with the side panel of my case off (Thermaltake J22 TG) and it's having to throttle itself to just keep it at that temperature. Due to this (and a fan baring shaking itself to the end of it's life if at anything over 75% speed), I'm was thinking of "Additional" DIY cooling - aka, putting a CPU cooler (with heatsinks for the RAM) on the thing to try and get it under control - but I need to know the mounting hole spacing. Due to a backplate (with one of the worst designs ever as it overhangs on the rear of the card, thus blocking airflow from my front case fans) - would anyone know the spacing needed, or would I need to modify a bracket? I was thinking of a cheap-ish cooler, so if modifications were needed, it wouldn't be a great loss. Suggestions for a decently cheap cooler - baring in mind, the case is a standard ATX, so there is not a lot of room between the card and the PSU shroud. If you can help, I'd be very grateful. Edit: If it works / if there is enough spacing, I was looking at these possible heatsinks (mainly trying to keep it below £25, especially if I end up having to canibalise it): beQuite Pure Rock Slim (https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01KVNCEIG) - I had a look at the wattage, and this might not be enough as it's recommended for 120W TDP Artic Freezer A13X (https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B088NQ85QB) Cooler Master Hyper 412R (https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B076MQBZ2L)
  4. Eh - still don't like the fact that support gets dropped so soon though. My phone has the gimped Exynos chip that's worse than the equivalent Qualcomm chip - so I'm dependent on Samsung with this one. (although I had no idea Qualcomm had a say in cycle support - considering the only Qualcomm chip phone I had was a Sony Xperia Z3 (got 1 update out of it before Google mandated the next Android was 64-bit only).
  5. I know it was being hopeful, just would have been nice for a flagship that's not too old to not be forgotten. And I don't think my phone is EOL, quite the opposite. I was trying to make a point of how many more feature updates would it get before Samsung drops it for just security updates - as it is still quite the capable phone. (not planning on getting a new one when my contract runs out - this does everything I need and is plenty fast enough for myself).
  6. Edit: Just as a heads up - there was an update to The Unpacked Thread by @zeusthemoose that I did not see stating the new 3 Android Generation commitment cycle, however, exact device list was not noted. Link: Summary: During its recent "Unpacked Event" - Samsung promised three generations of Android Updates. This starting with their current flagship, the Note 20 Ultra. Recently, a list has come out containing the devices that Samsung are now extending that support to - and it's bad news for some previous flagship holders that refuse to update (like myself and Linus, who are both using the Note 9 - I'll cut to the chase, It ain't on that list chief.) (credit: Samsung - https://www.samsung.com/uk/smartphones/galaxy-note20/) Quotes Samsung is being touted as doing this because people are holding on to their phones for longer as they typically do everything they need or have features they like (cough Headphone jack). As such, they are trying to extend the software support line for older devices. A cool thing to note (ha pun intended) is that now Samsung has committed to a 3 Generation cycle of Android updates - that now puts them equal to Google's commitment to the Pixel line of phones. But here is that catch I mentioned in the title - That's 3 generations of updates and not 3 years - which is what most people would assume. An example is the current flagship, the Note 20 Ultra. It comes pre-loaded with Android 10, so we should see it get updates to at the minimum Android 13 (when ever that gets announced in the future). Here is the full list of devices Samsung has committed to giving 3 Cycles of Android updates to: Galaxy S series: Galaxy S20 Ultra 5G, S20 Ultra, S20+ 5G, S20+, S20 5G, S20 in addition to S10 5G, S10+, S10, S10e, S10 Lite and upcoming S series devices Galaxy Note series: Galaxy Note20 Ultra 5G, Note20 Ultra, Note20 5G, Note20, Note10+ 5G, Note10+, Note10 5G, Note10, Note10 Lite and upcoming Note series devices I'm seeing a lack of Note 9 in this list Galaxy Foldable devices: Galaxy Z Fold2 5G, Z Fold2, Z Flip 5G, Z Flip, Fold 5G, Fold and upcoming Z series devices Galaxy A series: Galaxy A71 5G, A71, A51 5G, A51, A90 5G and select upcoming A series devices Tablets: Galaxy Tab S7+ 5G, Tab S7+, Tab S7 5G3, Tab S7, Tab S6 5G4, Tab S6, Tab S6 Lite and upcoming Tab S series devices My thoughts Not going to lie, I am kind of disapointed my Note 9 won't be getting the same treatment for the update cycle. Does that mean Samsung are going to stop updating it soon? Is it effectively EOL now for a still perfectly capable smartphone? Will it get the Android 11 update or not? So many questions I have (mainly because of my personal device). Overall - I think it's a good thing that Samsung is committing this cycle, however - some flagships are very capable and some re-assurance they wont be forgotten about less than 3 years in their cycle would be nice. Your thoughts - please leave them down below Sources Gizmodo UK: https://www.gizmodo.co.uk/2020/08/here-are-all-the-samsung-devices-getting-3-generations-of-android-upgrades/
  7. Spotify has just shown support for Epic Games anti-trust lawsuit: LINK Not surprising considering their own anti-trust suit against Apple in 2019. LINK
  8. Now this is interesting. Especially after what Luke said about Floatplane in a recent WAN show and after learning about this initial incident from Snazzy Labs twitter. Personally, I think Apple should have some sort of a cut as they act as a secure payment and currency processor - but the 30% is way too much. I think they are being too greedy for their own good - especially since there is no other official way to install apps on iOS. If this suit gains any tracking (and I think it will due to it being 2 big tech companies) it could open up the gates for other developers do do the same ting or possibly jump ship. But - back to the lawsuit: Who's going to win? There's only one way to find out. FIGHT! Edit: Rather than post a bunch of replies - I'll add to this one. I do love point 6 that Epic makes in the opening of the suit: (Emphasis added by me to make the point). While I do believe Epic are doing as it claims and is taking suit for the smaller developers - i can't help but feel there is a slight motivation for themselves considering Apple canned Fortnite...
  9. Considering there was an alleged GeekBench result for Apple's A14 chip stating it was running at around 3.1GHz and a 6-core ARM design (Source: Notebook Check), one could reasonably assume (given IF those numbers are correct) that the A14X will also run around that speed.
  10. I personally think they would be pretty accurate considering the next iPad Pro models (2021) are supposedly going to use the same A14X Chip (5nm), so it made sense (to me at least) to have something that is capable of decent performance, but with a low power draw - great for the small devices - i.e the MacBook.
  11. A user on twitter by the username of Apple Lab has apparently gotten their hands on the rumored upcoming specifications for the new MacBooks with the first generation of Apple ARM based Silicon (In their Laptop and possibly desktops line). There is no given evidence that these leaked specifcations are true, but there is also no evidence disproving them - and considering the specifications seem reasonable, I would think they might be pretty accurate. The rumored specs are for a new MacBook - Not a MacBook Pro - so like the 12" MacBook from 2016, in-fact, that's what this is expected to be like, given the expected 12" display. List of Specs taken from Apple Lab's tweet: ARM MacBook info: SoC: A14X RAM: 8GB, 16GB Storage: 256GB,512GB (SSD) Battery life: 15hr~20hr Port: single USB-C Display: 12” (Retina Display) Camera: 720p (FaceTime HD) Weight: lighter than 1Kg Price: $799 (by Apple Lab's "Source") So yes, this is basically a new 2016-type MacBook for 2020 but with Apple Silicon. A good move I think considering that is a great platform to test this on. It will be small, lightweight and not super powerful - much like the 2016 MacBook. A downside I can see is the single USB-C (No word if it is Thunderbolt, much like Apple has reportedly committed to bringing to their ARM based Macs). Article from @Mario5 in the spoiler to keep this article clean-ish (format wise) My thoughts Again, a downside I can see - if these rumored specs are to be believed, is the single USB-C (unconfirmed if Thunderbolt or not). Will it have a headphone jack? How will this compete with other options in Apple's line up - looking at the iPad Pro (even though they are running different operating systems). And if the price is to be believed, for a little more, you could get the MacBook Air (Sure it maybe a little heavier and a dual-core at base, but you get the 2 Thunderbolt 3 ports - for external expansion). Will the new MacBook have butterfly switches or the new scissor switches? I'm personally not sold on ARM as a desktop/laptop chip at the moment, but if anyone can push the industry in that direction, I'm sorry,but Apple will be the one to do that. So only time will see. Please leave your thoughts down below Sources: Source #1: Twitter (@ aaple_lab ) Source #2: Overclock3D: https://www.overclock3d.net/news/systems/specs_for_apple_s_first_apple_silicon_macbook_have_leaked/1
  12. I genuinely had no idea that's how it worked. Cheers for the lesson (and I actually mean that). To be honest, I haven't had any issues with interference, but just because I haven't, doesn't mean others will. It makes sense, but I still think it's stupid though that Microsoft expect you to pay for the codec, especially as you stated that: But then again, Apple is (was?) more of a media focused company, so that kind of makes sense. I just think its a bit hypocritical that Microsoft: considering they released a media center focused OS in the past (back in the XP days). But yeah, they are just my thoughts.
  13. There was a method at one point to get the codec for free (might even still work, IDK). See video below from Barnacules about it. All I know is that HEVC works fine for me via VLC/MPC/Plex without having that codec installed (although I do use K-Lite/ Combined Community Codec Pack.) maybe give them a try? But on point, it sucks that you have to pay for the codec. Its on most modern hardware already, you should be able to use it. I feel like the royalty was paid for when you bought the hardware(I know that's not how it works, but it's how I feel). I'd be interested to try the H.266 codec at least once. I've only just got around to doing my media collection for my server - nearly 7TB (every movie/show that is on disk that steps foot in my house I automatically backup due to not so careful siblings), so H.265 is helping there, but it takes time to re-encode the footage and I don't have all the source material anymore, so quality may take a hit from being an encode of an encode. But only one way to find out and unfortunately that may not be on my current hardware...
  14. Okay, I will try haha. I'm assuming you will be using Windows? If so then the install will be pretty straight forward. It will tell you what to do as you go through it. (make sure you have a license key to activate it when it asks - you can use it without one, but some features will be locked/unavailable). As for drivers - one you have your part list finalised - on a diifferent computer, go to the website for each part and there should be a support section. There you will find a download list of drivers for your part. The only exception being the graphics ad you will either have to go to the AMD site or the Nvidia site (as they are general sites and you will have to find your specific graphics card - it doesn't matter on the brand of the card, just the actual GPU). Put all those drivers on a USB Stick and when the OS has installed (assuming you are using Windows) - plug that USB stick in to the system and install the drivers one by one. Doing it this way will ensure you have the latest drivers and you might not have an internet connection as there may not be a driver for the LAN port/WiFi on the board. EDIT: Typical drivers you will need: Chipset/PCH Audio LAN/WiFi Storage (maybe) USB (3.0/3.1) drivers Graphics Drivers The reason I recommended the TomoHawk is if you have the MAX version, then it should support the Ryzen 3rd gen with no issues out of the box. If not then you can easily update the BIOS (needed to make the system boot). The instructions for that will be in the motherboard manual. When installing the drivers, follow the instructions on screen and do them one at a time. The system may need to be rebooted after the drivers are installed. it's best practice to do so. After the operating system and drivers are installed, I use https://ninite.com/ to create a installer for all the most common programs I use (such as web-browsers, email client, media players etc.) You don't have to, but it makes getting the programs so much easier as its all in one installer then. Hope this helps a little.
  15. I can try my best - what advice are you looking for? (apart from the parts which is where this all started haha).
  16. If you are streaming, you will want more cores to do the encoding with little impact to your system while playing games. So yes - you could stream with the 3300x (especially since it has the 8 threads), however, the 3600 would be the better option. With that said, a decent GPU now has pretty good encoding for streaming - for example the Nvidia card might support the new NVENC encoder (I can't say for certain as I don't have a 1660 super - NVENC is Nvidia's own way of encoding on the card).
  17. Sorry, not so. OpenGL (I put CL in my previous answers, my mistake). It a rendering platform for 2D and 3D graphics (mainly games, can be used for CAD and visualization). It is not a benchmarking platform. It is a Graphics API, the same as DirectX (just an open standard - unlike DirectX) EDIT: I should correct myself - Nvidia does support OpenGL - however, in the past it has been evident that AMD cards seem to perform better than Nvidia when OpenGL is concerned.) CUDA, I refer back to my other post
  18. Don't worry about being a noob - we were all there at one point haha. They are different technologies mainly used in development and research. CUDA is Nvidia propriety and can be used for more than just games, it can be used to accelerate general computing usage. Nvidia have an article here: https://blogs.nvidia.com/blog/2012/09/10/what-is-cuda-2/ If you don't know what it is, you probably won't need it. The same for OpenCL execpt that it is an open standard that anyone can adopt. In a day to day life, you might never encounter them. I just listed them as each manufacturer (AMD and Nvidia) have their own little quirks and features that the other does not.
  19. What is your budget and how much each of the lists cost? EDIT - Did not see the budget is 900-1000 USD (I work in £ so this is going to be skewed a little due to my countries maditory 20% VAT on pretty much everything...) Breaking it down: Case is subjective. Get one which you like as long as it will fit your needs. RAM - you're pretty much set on the 3600MHz, great speed for Ryzen so that's fine on all the builds. The aesthetics are again subjective. Go with what ever is cheapest but has decent timings. Processor, I'd recommend the 3600 as the 3600 will be the best out of them all for general multi-tasking due to the 6C/12T (the 3500 is just 6C/6T with less cache than the 3600 IIRC, and the 3300X is 4C/8T). If you're just gaming the 3300X should be just fine, need a little more - step up to the 3600. Motherboard - All good options listed. Personally I'd go with the MSI Tomohawk as I've heard good things about them such as the power delivery, the bios flashing - it's generally a really good board for Ryzen. PSU - don't go cheap, a decent 80+ Bronze might be enough for your needs (although the 80+ Gold is a nice to have, its not essential). Storage - You've listed SSDs, which is great - but do you have any extra storage? If not, get the biggest SSD you can get while being in budget. Monitors - again, subjective - Get what you prefer (I'd go either 1080p 144Hz at 24" as the pixel density at 27" is not great or 1440p at 27" if you need the bigger screen - again, your choice.) GPU - Not too sure about the 5600XT vs 1660 Super. You'd have to look at performance charts and see which one is better for you. Do you use OpenCL - then the 5600XT card should be better. CUDA? Then you basically have to go with the 1660 Super. Out of the parts you have listed - I'd go: CPU: Ryzen 3600 (For general use) / Ryzen 3300X (If I'm just gaming) RAM: Any of the 16GB 3600MHz kits (as long as the timings are decent) Motherboard: The MSI Tomohawk GPU: The Nvidia 1660 Super (I find Nvidia drivers to be more stable) Storage: A decent SSD (256-512GB, hopefully NVME) and maybe a 1TB HDD for mass storage (could be external). PSU: The Coolermaster one should be sufficient - even though its only 80+ Bronze Case: Any that fits my budget and has space for all my needs Monitor: 1080p 144hz if its 24", if 27" then the 1440p monitor. Hope This helps a little. PS - here's a list I just threw together on the US PCPartPicker site, total comes to around 826 USD, without the monitor: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/wc2Pp8
  20. I kind of like and need BootCamp, so it looks like I'll be sticking with my 2017 MBP for a little while longer than expected (or maybe buy a used 2019 MBP with better specs in the future). I use BootCamp on my MBP daily (even though I have my desktop withing Arms reach (pun intended)). Its useful for when you find that one app you like that just work on Windows but not MacOS or vice versa - especially when you're constantly on the move or going to meetings). And that was the same during my university stint on a Game Development course. We had a dedicated iMac lab (one of only less than 10 I believe in the whole of the UK universities that were sponsored by Apple, at the time) - yet 99% of the time, We were using programs that were optimized and developed with Windows in mind, so we were using BootCamp. (the other 1% is when we were developing for iOS and needed xCode. We also had several NVIDIA sponsored labs for CUDA development and such but they were shared with Computer Science students as well - the Mac Lab was Games Dev only). So from a development side - unless app/program developers want to basically re-write their program for native support, this is going to be a huge middle finger to professionals. I just hope that they continue to support x86/Intel macs for a little while in the future and not just drop them instantly. I really don't want to have to go back to carrying 2 laptops (which I did when my older MBP didn't support Windows 10 via BootCamp).
  21. I have as I did have a VMWare Fusion license from my university course, but with the specs I have, virtualization just doesn't seem to be optimal (2c/4t i5 and only 8GB of RAM - wouldn't share well with host and VM). Its not the end of the world - I still have Windows on my Desktop, its just nice to have it portable as well (in case my family want to use it - they have never used Mac OS before - side note: I'm actually trying to convince my mother to get a MacBook or even and iPad as all she does is use Facebook, access her work schedule so something that lightweight and easy to use would be great for her).
  22. Yes, Yes and Yes, it's really weird. It's there for the first boot as if to continue the install, then it crashes - boots back to Mac OS and then its no longer in the boot menu, but the partition is there in Disk Manager.
  23. Eh, I didn't mind removing the partition. I run everything and all my programs via USB storage as I only have 50GB for Windows (128gb SSD in total). Might give it another go but with it installed on an external drive.
  24. Hey everyone - really weird one for you today. So I have my Macbook Pro 2017 bootcamped with Windows 10 Pro and it was working fine yesterday - then there was an Apple softwware update for Bootcamp on Windows (which I installed) and all was fine until I rebooted. My Win10 bootcamp was now stuck in a boot loop. So I restarted into Mac OS to delete the partition and re-bootcamp. Which worked fine for a second - then the system restarted and went to boot into Windows to continue the setup. Got to the Windows logo and it all went black and went back to Mac OS. The partition was in Disk Utilities, however, the Boot Camp Assistant could not see it and on restart (while holding down option) it was not in the boot selection at all. So I repeated the steps of delete partition, re-bootcamp etc to no avail. It just doesn't work anymore. Any advice would be greatful Mac OS is Catalina 10.15.14
  25. Hey everyone, I was hoping you might be able to answer a question I have. I'm considering selling my old laptop to a friend (a 15.6" Windows laptop - all solid-state, so no HDD), however due to current circumstances and locations, I will have to ship it. However, I'm a little unsure about the battery and whether a courier will take it due to that. Question: Is it fine to send it with the battery and if so - who would be the better courier? I was thinking DPD as I've always had good luck with them. I can't seem to see anything on their prohibited list about it, but just wanted to make sure. Cheers.
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