WelshDdraig

I've tried multiple cables and DP adapters and the issue was persisting. I think its just down to the age of the monitor and the fact it has been back and forth university with me so some damage over the years internally with the moving. I've tried DDU as well to no avail, as for PLS == IPS, I thought so, but compared to my other IPS screen (also a Samsung - and much newer) the PLS seems like it has more colour & brighter whites. (The brightness, colour temperature and contrast are all default as well). Oh well - must just be my eyes. Cheers for the advice I'm pretty good with soldering, however I don't really want to take the panel apart to try and fix it incase I damage the panel itself. The screen is one of those "little to no bezel" ones with no visible screws - that and I wouldn't know what LEDs I would need to get. If I do decide to get a new monitor in the future and this is then just additional - I'll possibly give it a shot. SMD work just scares me a little - lol.

Hey everyone, I think I know the answer to this, but I thought I'd ask anyway. h So - my trusted Samsung S24D590L which I bought all the way back in 2015 seems to having a few issues. Most notably over the past few days, it seems like the backlight is playing up. It will flicker for a bit, then go back to normal and then flicker again with a dark strip across the display. Does anyone know how I may be able to fix this (as I love this monitor - to the point I managed to track down a second one recently for a 3x display set-up (For some reason, PLS seems better to me than IPS - even thought they are the same technology - I think...) or is this one of those "just get ready as one day it won't have a backlight" moments and get ready to get an upgrade. If I do, I'll possibly just update my 3x 1080p monitors to an ultrawide of minimum 100/144Hz or a single 1440p 144hz+ monitor - would anyone have some good suggestions that are fairly cheap? (I know - just typically I just missed Black Friday lol). Anyway, thanks for reading and any advice you might be able to provide.

Damn it - seems I was beaten to it on this post:

Source: https://www.engadget.com/john-mcafee-dead-200832456.html Summary John McAfee, notorious creator of the McAfee Anti-virus software has been found dead in prison at the age of 75. People found his body in his Barcelona Prison Cell where he was waiting to be extradited to the US to face tax evasion charges. Quotes My thoughts Well, this is some really sad news. No one should consider suicide as an option - if you are at that point, please seek help. That goes for everyone from everyday citizens to convicted criminals. No matter what you thought of the man, this is still pretty upsetting that a pioneer in the computing industry has passed away.

I've had the similar issues with Xbox controllers in the past. I found out that the plastic can wear away on the the bumper where it hits the button. I fixed it in the past, and I know it sounds weird, but by wedging a little piece of cardboard - like a cereal box, folded a few times in-between the button and the bumper. Now my controller gives a solid click on that bumper with no issues. Maybe its worth giving that a shot. Best of luck

Hi everyone, I got a question I was wondering you might be able to help me solve. So, I (like many others) still play Payday 2 and lets just say the Diesel Game Engine has not aged well - it was never great to begin with but that's another rant for a different story. While I have the system to obtain high FPS (a 144 fps at nearly all maxed settings) I notice a lot of game hitching in certain heists. I know how to fix this by doing the following: Launch the Game Alt + Tab and bring up the Task Manager Find the Payday 2 Process Manually set the CPU Affinity to use cores 0-5 on my Ryzen 5 3600. Once those steps are done - the issue disappears. Here's my question: Is there a way to do this automatically with the launch of the game through Steam, or for it to be automatically done on the game's launch? I did find this SuperUser thread (https://superuser.com/questions/908848/how-do-i-permanently-set-the-affinity-of-a-process) that describes something similar, however Payday is weird and occasionally will not launch via a shortcut that has been modified (it sometimes insists that it is launched through Steam :/) It's not that much of a hassle to do, but having it done automatically would be nice. Cheers for reading and I look forward to possible help with this issue.

Hey Everyone, I love my MacBook Pro 2017 - specs in my signature (since its part of the issue, it is the version with just 2 USB-C Ports), although I wouldn't mind one with higher specs - but that's a different discussion for another time. Brief Description of issue: Basically, I'm running into an issue where my MacBook is losing internet Wi-Fi connectivity when I use a dongle or a USB-C to A adapter. I think know what's causing it - according to other users on the internet, its due to the shielding (or lack there off) in the adapters. Its causing the signal to either short or block or something. Now, this is annoying for many reasons - most notably, the lack of Wi-Fi, but more so that due to the lack of storage on my machine (only 128GB SSD) I basically have to use external storage, and I also like to use my MacBook on my monitor while I'm at a desk - for that odd occasion for when I decide to use OS X. As such, I need the extra ports provided either by a dongle or a dock. Main Question: Can anyone recommend a good, fairly cost effective dock that can provide multiple USB-A Ports (preferably at USB 3.0 Speeds for storage purposes), at least 1 HDMI output, and possibly an ethernet port. But most importantly, they know or at least can confirm that they do not cause any signal issues with the MacBook Pro. I don't use Thunderbolt, so if possible - I want to avoid getting a Thunderbolt Dock as it would basically just end up being used as a glorified USB-C Hub. My budget is around the £20-£30 mark. I don't really want to spend more, but if I have to - then I will. Thanks in advance for any suggestions and sorry for making you read a wall of text - but I though it'd be best to at least explain the problem.

That second tweet showed the Xbox Series S (Which I believe is diskless). It sounds like my Xbox One (First Gen). Since its SSD based (The Series S), there no hard-drive to have a click if that was dead/dying. That sound has nothing to do with a disk drive, but sounds more like the fan is catching a cable (maybe the cable has come out of the fan channel to the hub and is being caught? Who knows - but that's just my thought). For the first tweet (apart from the forum making the tweet pulse in a funky way - could be an extension I have, IDK), that could be a disk drive issue - but I doubt it. The last time I had a disk issue was with the 360 Slim (not the E), and that was when a disk slipped from the tray and it made a grinding noise of the disk against the spinning motor. Again, that sounds to me like a fan issue, especially with the timing between the "clicks".

Never really used Office 2010 - I kind of skipped over that one. I was on Office 2003 for a long time, then I got a copy of 2007 on disk (which I still have somewhere) with a laptop I bought then went straight to Office 2013 and 365. Shame this has reached EOL, but 365 is not the end of the world (unless you've forgotten your managed accounts password and can't do updates because you can't sign in - don't ask me how I know...)

Hi everyone, Hopefully a quick one for you - if you can help, that'd be much appreciated. My RTX 2060 Super has one of - if not, THE worst heatsinks I have ever seen on a GPU. Its a RTX 2060 Super Windforce OC (2 fans) from Gigabyte. This "cooler" is shockingly bad. My temperatures are usually pinned at the 88°C limit in MSI Afterburner, and that is with the side panel of my case off (Thermaltake J22 TG) and it's having to throttle itself to just keep it at that temperature. Due to this (and a fan baring shaking itself to the end of it's life if at anything over 75% speed), I'm was thinking of "Additional" DIY cooling - aka, putting a CPU cooler (with heatsinks for the RAM) on the thing to try and get it under control - but I need to know the mounting hole spacing. Due to a backplate (with one of the worst designs ever as it overhangs on the rear of the card, thus blocking airflow from my front case fans) - would anyone know the spacing needed, or would I need to modify a bracket? I was thinking of a cheap-ish cooler, so if modifications were needed, it wouldn't be a great loss. Suggestions for a decently cheap cooler - baring in mind, the case is a standard ATX, so there is not a lot of room between the card and the PSU shroud. If you can help, I'd be very grateful. Edit: If it works / if there is enough spacing, I was looking at these possible heatsinks (mainly trying to keep it below £25, especially if I end up having to canibalise it): beQuite Pure Rock Slim (https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01KVNCEIG) - I had a look at the wattage, and this might not be enough as it's recommended for 120W TDP Artic Freezer A13X (https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B088NQ85QB) Cooler Master Hyper 412R (https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B076MQBZ2L)

Eh - still don't like the fact that support gets dropped so soon though. My phone has the gimped Exynos chip that's worse than the equivalent Qualcomm chip - so I'm dependent on Samsung with this one. (although I had no idea Qualcomm had a say in cycle support - considering the only Qualcomm chip phone I had was a Sony Xperia Z3 (got 1 update out of it before Google mandated the next Android was 64-bit only).

I know it was being hopeful, just would have been nice for a flagship that's not too old to not be forgotten. And I don't think my phone is EOL, quite the opposite. I was trying to make a point of how many more feature updates would it get before Samsung drops it for just security updates - as it is still quite the capable phone. (not planning on getting a new one when my contract runs out - this does everything I need and is plenty fast enough for myself).

Edit: Just as a heads up - there was an update to The Unpacked Thread by @zeusthemoose that I did not see stating the new 3 Android Generation commitment cycle, however, exact device list was not noted. Link: Summary: During its recent "Unpacked Event" - Samsung promised three generations of Android Updates. This starting with their current flagship, the Note 20 Ultra. Recently, a list has come out containing the devices that Samsung are now extending that support to - and it's bad news for some previous flagship holders that refuse to update (like myself and Linus, who are both using the Note 9 - I'll cut to the chase, It ain't on that list chief.) (credit: Samsung - https://www.samsung.com/uk/smartphones/galaxy-note20/) Quotes Samsung is being touted as doing this because people are holding on to their phones for longer as they typically do everything they need or have features they like (cough Headphone jack). As such, they are trying to extend the software support line for older devices. A cool thing to note (ha pun intended) is that now Samsung has committed to a 3 Generation cycle of Android updates - that now puts them equal to Google's commitment to the Pixel line of phones. But here is that catch I mentioned in the title - That's 3 generations of updates and not 3 years - which is what most people would assume. An example is the current flagship, the Note 20 Ultra. It comes pre-loaded with Android 10, so we should see it get updates to at the minimum Android 13 (when ever that gets announced in the future). Here is the full list of devices Samsung has committed to giving 3 Cycles of Android updates to: Galaxy S series: Galaxy S20 Ultra 5G, S20 Ultra, S20+ 5G, S20+, S20 5G, S20 in addition to S10 5G, S10+, S10, S10e, S10 Lite and upcoming S series devices Galaxy Note series: Galaxy Note20 Ultra 5G, Note20 Ultra, Note20 5G, Note20, Note10+ 5G, Note10+, Note10 5G, Note10, Note10 Lite and upcoming Note series devices I'm seeing a lack of Note 9 in this list Galaxy Foldable devices: Galaxy Z Fold2 5G, Z Fold2, Z Flip 5G, Z Flip, Fold 5G, Fold and upcoming Z series devices Galaxy A series: Galaxy A71 5G, A71, A51 5G, A51, A90 5G and select upcoming A series devices Tablets: Galaxy Tab S7+ 5G, Tab S7+, Tab S7 5G3, Tab S7, Tab S6 5G4, Tab S6, Tab S6 Lite and upcoming Tab S series devices My thoughts Not going to lie, I am kind of disapointed my Note 9 won't be getting the same treatment for the update cycle. Does that mean Samsung are going to stop updating it soon? Is it effectively EOL now for a still perfectly capable smartphone? Will it get the Android 11 update or not? So many questions I have (mainly because of my personal device). Overall - I think it's a good thing that Samsung is committing this cycle, however - some flagships are very capable and some re-assurance they wont be forgotten about less than 3 years in their cycle would be nice. Your thoughts - please leave them down below Sources Gizmodo UK: https://www.gizmodo.co.uk/2020/08/here-are-all-the-samsung-devices-getting-3-generations-of-android-upgrades/