abusedduck
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Antec giveaway is the best giveaway. But my favorite item? The lighting kit. Because it's all about them aesthetics.
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It looks like it could physically beat up other graphics cards. -
PC Perspective already did this: http://www.pcper.com/reviews/Graphics-Cards/EVGA-Hydro-Copper-GTX-980-Water-Block-Early-Performance-Testing
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The Corsair K70 RGB for sure. Unless you're impatient and/or will use the macro keys on the Razer (if you don't have a modern ASUS mobo).
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Casting my vote for blues. But I will echo the comments here; it's all personal preference. I've tried all "mainstream" switch types, along with some less common, and I still prefer blue. The less-stiff, clicky, and tactile bump feel of blues is very nice and premium feeling.
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Reference Evga Gtx 980 - GPUZ showing temperature limit.
abusedduck replied to sew999's topic in Graphics Cards
If your card is throttling itself past its stock speed, this is called a boost. If it doesn't boost that high all the time, it is not called thermal throttling; it's simply less boost. Thermal throttling is when the card is clocked lower than stock speeds. You have nothing to worry about here. Your card is preforming admirably. -
I really enjoy the Razer DeathAdder 2013. No frills, awesome tracking, sensitive primary and secondary click. Great all-around mouse, IMO.
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Assuming you're referring to the switch, there are plenty of Cherry MX Green keyboards out there! http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/search.php?switch_id=10&size=ALL&keyword=&in_stock=on Keep in mind that Razer no longer uses Cherry switches on their newer keyboards. So their green switch is NOT the same as a Cherry MX switch.
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My first mechanical keyboard was an MX Red switch, which I ended up not liking because it was too light for me - all personal preference. If you have the chance, I would go to the store and try it out if you can beforehand. Keep in mind, MX Red's require ~45g of pressure to fully depress, whereas rubber dome switches are 50-60g at the bottom of the press. It's just a matter of finding what's right for you. I'm currently typing on MX Blues, which I've found to be my favorite; with MX Browns as a second. Awesome keyboard, by the way!
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1 Million Subscribers - Thank you all! And a giveaway!
abusedduck replied to nicklmg's topic in LTT Releases
Welcome to all the new members! I hope you guys enjoy your stay on the forums. This place really is an awesome community - but it takes all of us to keep it that way. Good luck to everyone on the giveaway, and cheers to Linus and the team on their continued success! -
Ducky Shine 3 VS Das Keyboard Professional Model S VS Corsair K70
abusedduck replied to Jrv01's topic in Peripherals
They are all solid choices. It all boils down to price and feature-set. What's most important to you? Price? Back lighting? Programmable keys? Etc. -
YotS is here! And an amazing keyboard to type on, at that. Typical Ducky quality all housed in a fantastic aluminum chassis. Go with the Ducky. Edit: For the special keycaps, https://www.facebook.com/SomefengGeeky Edit2: Pictures! http://i.imgur.com/PsEt0EC.jpg http://i.imgur.com/MkoybYx.jpg http://i.imgur.com/okR9ebY.jpg http://i.imgur.com/7XRpo7l.jpg
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To answer your questions in short: Yes/no. The keyswitches are the same; so in theory, the typing experience should be the same. But the stabilizers on the longer keys (shift, space, etc), may differ. Exact keyboard layouts differ from brand to brand. Things like key spacing, height, indention, etc., can all be different. Nope. ABS plastic is the "cheaper" feeling plastic. PBT keycaps definitely feel more premium. I don't have experience with WASD keyboards, so I can't comment; I've just felt they were a more "modders" keyboard. Edit: My Ducky YotS w/ MX blues will be here tomorrow. I'll report back here with my findings.
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A few things: CompUSA stores rebranded (finally) to Tigerdirect.com. Their return policy is exchange only; so I didn't end up buying anything... They didn't even have an AX series PSU. I managed to find a known good spare PSU around the house and got it swapped out. Bingo! It was running stable for about 2 hours. It wouldn't even last 30 seconds before. Now I guess I get to start the RMA process with Corsair or Newegg... whichever. Thanks for the help guys!
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Tried that too. The weird thing is that it doesn't matter where it's at in the booting/post process; it'll reboot regardless - whether it's in BIOS, during POST, loading Windows, in Windows, etc. I'm thinking it may be PSU related. I'm going to try running to CompUSA and buy another 760i to swap out. If that works, I'm going to RMA this one with Newegg. I'd rather have a blue screen... at least that gives me a place to start with troubleshooting. Silly ghost hardware issues.
