Pancake

Answer from bequite is that I should spread the GPU across the 2 rails by using 1 connector for GPU1 and another for GPU2 For the 750w, I am going to use 2 cables. It looks like a single cable isn't really rated for the load of a 3080 Ti

I swapped in the 8700K, and then I will keep my eye out for good deals on a board and CPU Its an ITX board currently, so its going to look WILD with the 3080ti in there The 750w will be in this system, if UPS will ever show up

Thanks for your advice, got the PSU swapped ready for the new case to arrive Since the 600w has 2 rails, does it matter which PCI-E Power connector I use? It has 2 cables each with 2 x 8 Pins, one labeled GPU1 and the other GPU2. Doesn't seem to be anything on the box or in the book about which goes to which rail Also, for the 3080 Ti on the 750w, it alright to use the daisy chained 8 pins? It requires 2 x 8 Pins. Or should I run 2 cables down from the PSU?

Actually, think the Corsair HX650 would be alright for the 3080 Ti? It would be MUCH easier to not have to rip apart my PC!

Thanks! I had no idea that being dual rail was an issue I assume there should be no issue with the 600w running a RYZEN 7 3700X with a 2080 SUPER? I also have a spare older Corsair HX650 sitting in a box, if that would be a better PSU too

Thanks, so the Phanteks AMP Series 750W is a better bet?

My HTPC has the following Intel Core i5 9400 ASRock Z370M-ITX/ac Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 3200MHz Noctua NH-U12S w/ Noctua NF-F12 PWM GIGABYTE GeForce RTX 3080 Ti 12GB (On its way) be quiet! Pure Power 11 600W Power Supply Fractal Design Meshify C TG ATX (On its way) Questions on this. Is the 600w PSU good enough for a 3080 Ti? My desktop which has a 2080 SUPER has a Phanteks AMP Series 750W 80 PLUS Gold. Should I swap the two around? Is the i5 9400 good enough for this build? It was cheap and since this was just a basic HTPC, it didn't matter. I do however have an 8700K in my NVR (Blue Iris) and I could swap the two around. Should I swap this, or is the CPU not going to be an issue? Yes, I am aware the ITX board in an ATX case is going to be really weird looking. This is currently in a Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ITX which can't fit the GPU, and has terrible airflow Thanks!

This is an old thread, but I just ran into an identical issue The resolution was to disable receive side scaling on the 10G NIC device settings in Windows, and then to enable flow control on the ports on the switch Solves the problem entirely

EDIT: Damnit! Wrong thread. Sorry guys

All of the issues are streaming back to me now. So THAT is why I built an HTPC with a cheap RX550 in it So, essentially I need to ditch using Intel Graphics if i want to easily get 4:4:4?

This thread is very old, but I figured I would update. I have had my Ergochair since June and it has been FANTASTIC. I find it much more comfortable and better looking than the Aeron's I tried at various locations I wouldn't hesitate to get another.

I remember researching this years ago, but I seem to have lost where to check All I need is 4K @60hz with 4:4:4 either over HDMI or via Displayport to HDMI adapter Can anyone shed some light here? I am looking to use an HP Elitedesk, and I'm trying to find if I can get the G2 which has an i5-6500 with HD Graphics 530, but I can't seem to find it if does 4:4:4

Yep sure sucks, but thing happen. Just remember there are currently people not able to pay their mortgages, so you have it pretty good

Thats it!!!!!

I'm not, I'm trying to find the graphic but I can't seem to find it It would have your handle, and then your rank and a green arrow or red arrow depending on if you were going up or down etc

The laptop is going to pretty much be tossed in 3 years or completely worn out in 3 years anyway

How do I get them? I used to do it like 10 years and everyone had the signatures with rank Any ideas?

My work laptop has an i7 1065G7 Worth folding on this, or will it make such little progress its not worth it?

Alright I've dropped the memory down to 3200 non DOCP and manually set the timings and voltage, lets see how this plays out Tonight when I finish work ill run a Memtest until the next morning I've also gone to the latest NVIDIA driver

Is the tRC something I need to be concerned with? its not listed on the memory specs but its currently at 85. Total timings are 18-22-22-42 If I drop the speed, leave it at 85? Is 85 even correct to begin with?

Maybe Ill just lower them right off the bat anyway, honestly stability is preferable over performance on this build. I did also have the PSU set to silent mode which has the fan at 0% until 30% load, I went ahead and turned that off. Can't see it making a huge difference as I'd assume they tested it to come to that feature, but worth a shot as you can't hear the fan anyway

If I lower to 3200, leave timings as is?

Pretty frustrating to say the least! First new Ryzen build and things are not off to a good start I was sitting there doing almost nothing and the PC just rebooted. No issue while playing 6+ hours of games, but sitting at the desktop and it reboots. So It can't be thermal. Nothing in the event logs Here are my specs, does anyone see anything that has caused them issues in the past? I'm hoping it was a one-off, but its still very concerning. Nothing is overclocked and memory is set using DOCP and looking in CPUZ the timing and frequency match the box. PC is on a UPS, no power issues and another desktop on the same UPS had no problems AMD RYZEN 7 3700X ASUS TUF B450-PLUS GAMING G.SKILL Trident Z Neo 32GB (2 x 16GB) 3600MHz be quiet! Dark Rock Slim RTX 2080 SUPER XC ULTRA 3 x Corsair ML140 Pro LED White Phanteks AMP Series 750W 80PLUS Gold Phanteks Enthoo Pro M Case Samsung 970 PRO SSD 512GB - M.2 NVMe Samsung 2TB 860 QVO SATA III 2.5" LG WH16NS40 SATA 5.25" BluRay Drive Mellanox ConnectX-3 Single Port 10G SFP+ Asus AC2100 WiFi / BT 5.0 Card Das Keyboard 4 Professional Cherry MX Brown Logitech G403 Prodigy Dell Alienware AW3420DW - 34" G-Sync Bose Companion 2 Series II Cooler Master MH752 Headset

I had no idea the XBOX One controlled used AA's, thats what I'll get then, thanks.

I am looking for a controller for my PC. Long term quality is key, so it must either be cabled, or have user replaceable batteries Any suggestions? My current thinking is to get an XBOX 360 controller